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Why can't I hit my new irons to a consistent distance?


Hubb1e

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Wristy suggested that a good swing works with any club...I just have a different opinion.

Starting the discussion with a question about handicap is not part of a frank discussion...it’s an attempt to pre-determine the type of club someone should be fitted into...more often than not. Someone’s 15 handicap may be a reflection of a 20 handicap driver game, 18 handicap short game and 10 handicap iron game or some such combination. There are far too many nuances to stick one label on a person’s game based on overall handicap.

I didn’t suggest that the small blade/stiff shaft would work for the vast majority of golfers, I just think that solution would work more often than you would think.

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Are there two types of clients who show up for a fitting? No 1 is a 15 handicap who wants to get fitted to optimize his game. He has no preconceived notion as to what will work best for him and trusts the fitter to put him into the best club for his particular game. No 2 is a 15 handicap and he wants to play a specific iron. Let's say a blade. He wants the fitter to optimize a fit to make the particular iron work for his particular game. As a fitter do you see these types of situations? And if so which one is harder to fit?

Callaway Mavrik Max 10.5, set at 9.5 stock R-flex
Taylormade M2 3 wood R-flex stock shaft.
Tour Edge Exotic EX9 hybrids, 2 and 5 Recoil R-flex shaft.
Taylormade P790 5-PW Modus 105 R-flex shafts
Titleist Vokey 50,54 and 58 wedges
Odyssey 2 ball.

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To the OP, here is what I would do.

figure out what shaft is appropriate for your swing speed in irons. Mizuno has a shaft fit optimizer, which is a good starting point Use that, and if you can, try a bunch of different 7 or 6-irons with the shafts that are indicated for you, and figure out what shaft, or what shafts, you can play.If I knew that, I would order Ping G410 and Ping i210 6 or 7 irons with the shat for that works in 1., and hit both until you determine which 6 or 7 iron works best for me. Then, order the set.

the nice thing about doing it that way is that your "miss club" will be only one club, or two. Sunk cost. There is nothing like hitting a club for a month to determine if that is the set that will truly make you happy/

Edit: if you can't figure out which shaft that works best for you (and not inside in the net with the numbers), buy a couple of 6-irons with different shafts and hit those clubs until you figure out which shaft you prefer. then go from there.

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The person who has the preconceived notion. Be it blades, be it a certain driver, certain putter, only brand A, etc. Shoehorning something to work is a lot harder than being able to go at it carte blanche and select the correct items in the first place.

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But the lower spin by itself isn't a problem when it's CONSISTENT. That's the key, if a 7 iron is going to spin 7000 or 5700 each time, with a larger decent angle on the higher launched low spin, it's easily playable and managed.

The trouble I think many people (including your friend) get into is, they are not consistently hitting the center. And because the irons are made to "feel" good, small misses of the center are sometimes hard to pickup. BUT, like their blade counterparts, missing the center does still impact the spin and launch. The head isn't "changing" the spin it's producing, the player is changing the impact location, thus changing the spin. I see it all the time on the monitor, a slightly heavy shot that doesn't kill the ball speed, kills the spin and it travels further.

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I know it's not a popular opinion and hence it's always pushed back on, but it's human error, not the clubs.

Dew, or long grass that causes a flyer, they affect high and low spin irons. If I'm getting 5500 rpm instead of 7000 or 3900 instead of 5500 the result is the same, the iron doesn't do what I'm expecting it to do.

Cb irons don't have "hot spots", they have spots in the face that drop the spin. It's been analyzed to death honestly and you can see examples on the txg YouTube channel. A flyer is created when the user delivers the club face slightly wrong and catches a set of impact conditions that drop spin or over rotate and increase ball speed. Point is, it's always user error, not clubs.

What I will agree on, generally lower spin clubs also have lower lofts which makes them more likely to be effected by a bad swing. We all know, the lower the loft the more face angles affect draw and fade spin. But again, that's exaggerating the humans mistake.

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I agree with most everything you are saying. I will disagree with the 5500 instead of 7000 vs 3900 instead of 5500 “is the same thing”. Yes both will produce shots different from whats expected. Two things- again the lower spin rate makes it susceptible to much more axis tilt, which makes offline misses worse. 2nd, alot of these lower spinning clubs retain ball speeds from these “mishits” which makes the flyer even worse. Whats even crazier is now the spin is getting so low that when you catch a low spin “flyer” that sometimes it just dips out of the air and goes nowhere. Spin is control. Period. More spin- more control.

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Handicap absolutely should be part of a fitting interview imo. A double digit handicapper is doing a disservice to their score by playing blades. I get it if people want to play them for enjoyment purposes, and solid hits do feel amazing, but the score will be negatively impacted over time. Sure, it's possible that there's a random outlier out there, but handicap has to be strongly correlated to best iron type for a player, so it only makes perfect sense to be part of the initial fitting interaction.

 

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  • 2 years later...

I didn't read anything except the title and this subject bothers me a lot. I remember hitting one of the first if not the first hollow iron and it was from Taylormade with the bubble shaft. I hit a 3 iron one tome and it was perfect and went the distance that I hit a great 3 iron.
Todays irons which they've been making for a while now with either hollow heads and or strong lofts. 
It's the springy faced irons that have taken over and they are terrible. I bought a set of Callaway Mavrik's and they would fly 15 yards longer but only when you hit somewhat close to the sweet spot. I have a set of X14s that will go the same distance except if you chunk or thin one. They feel like you hit the sweet spot on almost every strike. They just didn't fly like it. That's why I have played my X14 irons since the year 2000. Now I have Ping G430. They are ordered and should be here in 2 weeks or so. I know they will be jumpy but Ping says only one yard of extra carry is from the face being springy. If they are correct I am going to love this iron. That said I still don't trust them. They are built after the G425 and I'm sure there is a certain amount of springy face on that iron. Now the g430 is springier. No now it's more springy. If I can't control the distance on these I will play my X-14s forever.

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On 5/28/2020 at 7:42 AM, Valtiel said:

Please give as detailed of a rundown as you can on the specs of the two iron sets. Shafts, length, swingweight etc etc.

 

Find out the specs on your fitted length for Apex irons, and measure actual length of shafts.

 

A few years back when Nike still made clubs, I got fit for a set Vapor Speed irons. The stock shafts were unusually long, with 38.75" 5i. My fitting was for 38.25". Then the clubs arrived 7i on up was pretty good. But 4i-6i was a disaster. After several frustrating rounds, someone waggled a club and said it felt a bit long.

 

Took set to local shop, and the irons had the extra long shaft length, a half inch longer than I needed. And, SwWt was at D5. I called Nike about it, and they said "too bad, it's a custom order."

 

This was right about the time Nike announced they wouldn't make irons anymore, so I just unloaded them on eBay and was done with it. (Could have shortened, I guess, but I had already lost confidence in the set).

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Driver:  Tour Edge EXS 10.5° (base loft); weights neutral   ||  FWs:  Calla Rogue 4W + 7W

Hybrid:  Calla Big Bertha OS 4H at 22°  ||  Irons:  Calla Mavrik MAX 5i-PW

Wedges*:  Calla MD3: 48°... MD4: 54°, 58° ||  PutterΨSeeMore FGP + SuperStroke 1.0PT, 33" shaft

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I would be curious how much time you’ve spent with the new irons to confirm what your actual carry yardages are. When I switched to P790’s from Z785’s I wasn’t as consistent with my distance control, or at least felt that I wasn’t. I then spent several weeks going to a local TopTracer range (the best option I have as I don’t own a launch monitor). I kept track of my carry yardages over that period and averaged them out. Since doing that I have found them to be just as consistent on course as I would expect any iron to be. 
 

I agree that huge swings are probably strike related, but having actual knowledge of how far you hit each club with a “stock” swing I believe makes a huge difference in terms of overall consistency. You’re no longer saying “well, the other day I hit 7iron 175, so guess this 175 shot must be a 7” when in reality it may be your stock 5iron or 8iron. 
 

Good luck and hope you work it all out! (3 years later)

Edited by DoughBack18
I always forget to look at the original post date 🤦🏼‍♂️
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When I am reading stories like this, I want to keep my irons. However, When reading stories about new irons, I want to buy them (how many times i've put i230, zx7, p770, and mp223 irons in my shopping cart...). I at least want to change my iron shafts to graphite but I don't think it is wise to spend money on a 2012 model... Please tell me 1) there's nothing better than a buttery feeling one-piece forged iron set, and 2) all new iron tech is just gimmicky.  

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OP, for there to be a 50 yard dispersion front to back with the 7 iron and 100 yard dispersion on the 3 iron, there has to be one or both of the following:-

 

Poor ball striking

 

A bad fit

 

My simple mind can’t see how it could be anything else with such wild dispersion from front to back. If I mishit my 7 iron I’m probably only ten yards short of my distance, even back when I played MP32s I didn’t see 50 yard variation. I get there may be more variation in the long clubs, but not 100 yards.
 

If you hit your old irons ok I’d advise getting the specs checked on your clubs  to ensure they were built to spec. If they’re correct then either you’ve been ambitious with your ball striking and these irons don’t suit you or the fitter hasn’t fit you well in my opinion.

 

You weren’t by any chance fitted at a big box store were you? In the UK American Golf staff used to get bonuses for pushing certain brands instead of giving people what they needed, wouldn’t surprise me if the same happened elsewhere.

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  • 3 months later...
On 6/1/2020 at 6:34 AM, clinkinfo said:

What I will agree on, generally lower spin clubs also have lower lofts which makes them more likely to be effected by a bad swing. We all know, the lower the loft the more face angles affect draw and fade spin. But again, that's exaggerating the humans mistake.

 

Resurrecting this thread as I am having the same issue with some  new JXP forged irons after using 25 year old cavity backs for years.  what I don't understand is why a so called newer game improvement or so called "forgiving" iron is actually less forgiving then my 25 year old Taylor Made RAC's?  Of course its human mistake, no duh...but shouldn't the newer so called "forgiving" irons smooth out those mistakes?  That is the whole point!  My impression right now at the moment is that the manufacturers have put way too much emphasis on trying to make distance irons that fly further.  I guess that makes someone happy at the shop, but honestly I feel this has made them less forgiving.  I hit my irons plenty far, the stronger lofts has not made my irons easier to hit, it has just forced me to down club everything from what I was using before...essentially my 7i now hits like a 6i with a shorter then normal shaft.  Hmm.  Supposed to be more forgiving, but my "well struck" (meaning not duffed in the grass and not extremely bad toe hits, etc, which is actually pretty rare for me), the distances are all over the place, I can't trust the new clubs at all for distance.  

 

I did try out a JXP Tour with slightly stiffer shaft...and it tightened both distance and dispersion sound significantly...  7i to 170 with good stats on spin and descent angle.  I didn't hit that many, but I didn't hit a bad one off  mat.  Well I am not a pro player, not a single digit handicapper either, probably around 10 if you exclude stupid mistakes I make on the course that takes my real handicap a little higher then that.  I'm sure I am not able to hit the dead center of the face within a cm or whatever that some seem to say you need for blades, but what I can say is that the so called forgiving Forged model gives me much less distance consistency then the Tour model, which is almost a blade.

 

I do not see the point of getting GI irons if they put so much focus on distance and kill distance control, and so far that has been my experience.  If I mis hit something badly and it goes really short, I feel it and know it and expect it and think about my swing.  Fine.  What is not fine is to hit a series of shots that all feel wonderful and their distances are off by 20 yards, sometimes more with the longer irons.  I'm sure its related to the stronger irons imposing less spin and height, especially with bad strikes.   Hey if I had a pro swing I wouldn't even be talking about this, I'd just be playing blades.  

 

I'm still trying to decide if I should change my JXP 921 Forged (with ProjectX IO 5.5) to 923 Tours with 6.0 shaft.   My 7i swing speed is 83-87mph, give or take.  Definitely not over 90, but I'm kind of on the fence between the 5.5 and 6.0 shaft..which is why my fitter put me in the 5.5, and supposedly help with height...but my distance control is totally out the window compared to my clunky old RAC's and my 5 iron is harder to get into the air also, despite the 5.5 shaft...but its a strong loft..which I think is the main problem there.  It rolls a mile too.  Plays like a 4i with a shorter then  normal shaft.

 

Edited by Dewdman42
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A property of a system that is robust (invariant to a set of permutations) also tends to be complex and fragile.  By designing clubs to be be “forgiving” (invariant to a given set of permutations) they could easily have rendered them liable to other permutations in unpredictable ways with a result of the equivalent of catastrophic failure.

 

IIRC this may be what happened when those planes flew themselves into the ground a couple of years ago.

 

The answer: play blades.

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6 hours ago, Dewdman42 said:

 

Resurrecting this thread as I am having the same issue with some  new JXP forged irons after using 25 year old cavity backs for years.  what I don't understand is why a so called newer game improvement or so called "forgiving" iron is actually less forgiving then my 25 year old Taylor Made RAC's?  Of course its human mistake, no duh...but shouldn't the newer so called "forgiving" irons smooth out those mistakes?  That is the whole point!  My impression right now at the moment is that the manufacturers have put way too much emphasis on trying to make distance irons that fly further.  I guess that makes someone happy at the shop, but honestly I feel this has made them less forgiving.  I hit my irons plenty far, the stronger lofts has not made my irons easier to hit, it has just forced me to down club everything from what I was using before...essentially my 7i now hits like a 6i with a shorter then normal shaft.  Hmm.  Supposed to be more forgiving, but my "well struck" (meaning not duffed in the grass and not extremely bad toe hits, etc, which is actually pretty rare for me), the distances are all over the place, I can't trust the new clubs at all for distance.  

 

I did try out a JXP Tour with slightly stiffer shaft...and it tightened both distance and dispersion sound significantly...  7i to 170 with good stats on spin and descent angle.  I didn't hit that many, but I didn't hit a bad one off  mat.  Well I am not a pro player, not a single digit handicapper either, probably around 10 if you exclude stupid mistakes I make on the course that takes my real handicap a little higher then that.  I'm sure I am not able to hit the dead center of the face within a cm or whatever that some seem to say you need for blades, but what I can say is that the so called forgiving Forged model gives me much less distance consistency then the Tour model, which is almost a blade.

 

I do not see the point of getting GI irons if they put so much focus on distance and kill distance control, and so far that has been my experience.  If I mis hit something badly and it goes really short, I feel it and know it and expect it and think about my swing.  Fine.  What is not fine is to hit a series of shots that all feel wonderful and their distances are off by 20 yards, sometimes more with the longer irons.  I'm sure its related to the stronger irons imposing less spin and height, especially with bad strikes.   Hey if I had a pro swing I wouldn't even be talking about this, I'd just be playing blades.  

 

I'm still trying to decide if I should change my JXP 921 Forged (with ProjectX IO 5.5) to 923 Tours with 6.0 shaft.   My 7i swing speed is 83-87mph, give or take.  Definitely not over 90, but I'm kind of on the fence between the 5.5 and 6.0 shaft..which is why my fitter put me in the 5.5, and supposedly help with height...but my distance control is totally out the window compared to my clunky old RAC's and my 5 iron is harder to get into the air also, despite the 5.5 shaft...but its a strong loft..which I think is the main problem there.  It rolls a mile too.  Plays like a 4i with a shorter then  normal shaft.

 

those TaylorMade RAC irons were good irons.  I had a RAC 6-iron that was money, and it stayed in my bag after I had changed to different irons (can't remember which ones).

 

I see that, interestingly, I posted on this thread 3 years ago.  It certainly wasn't the worst advice that I have offered.

Edited by gvogel
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6 hours ago, Dewdman42 said:

 

Resurrecting this thread as I am having the same issue with some  new JXP forged irons after using 25 year old cavity backs for years.  what I don't understand is why a so called newer game improvement or so called "forgiving" iron is actually less forgiving then my 25 year old Taylor Made RAC's?  Of course its human mistake, no duh...but shouldn't the newer so called "forgiving" irons smooth out those mistakes?  That is the whole point!  My impression right now at the moment is that the manufacturers have put way too much emphasis on trying to make distance irons that fly further.  I guess that makes someone happy at the shop, but honestly I feel this has made them less forgiving.  I hit my irons plenty far, the stronger lofts has not made my irons easier to hit, it has just forced me to down club everything from what I was using before...essentially my 7i now hits like a 6i with a shorter then normal shaft.  Hmm.  Supposed to be more forgiving, but my "well struck" (meaning not duffed in the grass and not extremely bad toe hits, etc, which is actually pretty rare for me), the distances are all over the place, I can't trust the new clubs at all for distance.  

 

I did try out a JXP Tour with slightly stiffer shaft...and it tightened both distance and dispersion sound significantly...  7i to 170 with good stats on spin and descent angle.  I didn't hit that many, but I didn't hit a bad one off  mat.  Well I am not a pro player, not a single digit handicapper either, probably around 10 if you exclude stupid mistakes I make on the course that takes my real handicap a little higher then that.  I'm sure I am not able to hit the dead center of the face within a cm or whatever that some seem to say you need for blades, but what I can say is that the so called forgiving Forged model gives me much less distance consistency then the Tour model, which is almost a blade.

 

I do not see the point of getting GI irons if they put so much focus on distance and kill distance control, and so far that has been my experience.  If I mis hit something badly and it goes really short, I feel it and know it and expect it and think about my swing.  Fine.  What is not fine is to hit a series of shots that all feel wonderful and their distances are off by 20 yards, sometimes more with the longer irons.  I'm sure its related to the stronger irons imposing less spin and height, especially with bad strikes.   Hey if I had a pro swing I wouldn't even be talking about this, I'd just be playing blades.  

 

I'm still trying to decide if I should change my JXP 921 Forged (with ProjectX IO 5.5) to 923 Tours with 6.0 shaft.   My 7i swing speed is 83-87mph, give or take.  Definitely not over 90, but I'm kind of on the fence between the 5.5 and 6.0 shaft..which is why my fitter put me in the 5.5, and supposedly help with height...but my distance control is totally out the window compared to my clunky old RAC's and my 5 iron is harder to get into the air also, despite the 5.5 shaft...but its a strong loft..which I think is the main problem there.  It rolls a mile too.  Plays like a 4i with a shorter then  normal shaft.

 

 

 

You should not be losing distance control with those irons, but it doesn't sound like they are a great fit anyway if you are launching them outside your desired launch window.  Respectfully, something doesn't seem right in what you're testing, or how you're testing, or what conclusions you're drawing.  Modern irons have pretty consistent distances, unless you are extracting different launch conditions from them.  You get those alternate launch conditions from changing the things discussed in this thread already, or running into on-course issues like wet, deep rough, etc....  But those irons shouldn't be hitting distances all over the place, that's a huge OEM and ton's of people on this forum play that head.  It's a solid head. The best thing I can say to do is get on a launch monitor and see what's happening.  I suspect you're doing something like interpreting different places on the face as good center contact, when it isn't.  Something else is likely going on.  

 

Weird question, you're positive they are real right?  I mean, that's the other thing, counterfeit irons can be erratic and honestly, what you're describing does not sound like anything I've heard about the JPX line from Mizuno.  But in the end, if these are not working, or don't fit you well, go test other options.  Modern GI irons are pretty good, there's something that will work well.  

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6 hours ago, Dewdman42 said:

Resurrecting this thread as I am having the same issue with some  new JXP forged irons after using 25 year old cavity backs for years.  what I don't understand is why a so called newer game improvement or so called "forgiving" iron is actually less forgiving then my 25 year old Taylor Made RAC's?  Of course its human mistake, no duh...but shouldn't the newer so called "forgiving" irons smooth out those mistakes?


Say you took both sets and had them struck by a robot, like is being done by Cool Clubs. Do you think that your RAC’s would really have grossly better dispersion characteristics? As long as they aren’t fakes, as Mr. @clinkinfo astutely points out, you’re unlikely to see any significant differences, much less ones that you could subjectively identify.

 

The problem here is that you conditioned yourself to your RAC’s weight/flex/timing mechanics for years, and your new set doesn’t match them. You then point to the club heads (which have virtually nothing to do with it), since we tend to identify the whole club by the head and wonder how they can be this bad.

 

We have been conditioned by the equipment manufacturers to believe that new/different equipment will generically improve our ability to hit the ball repeatedly, and it’s just not true. There is one (at least one major) club fitter that attempts to fit to swing mechanics rather than specific equipment models, and that’s TrueSpec. Without that rather extreme approach, it’s actually pretty amazing that we have the success rate we do.

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1 hour ago, gvogel said:

those TaylorMade RAC irons were good irons.  I had a RAC 6-iron that was money, and it stayed in my bag after I had changed to different irons (can't remember which ones).

 

I see that, interestingly, I posted on this thread 3 years ago.  It certainly wasn't the worst advice that I have offered.

 

Yea.  Honestly I am probably gonna sell these 921 Forged and go back to the RAC's, possibly pick up the 923 Tours which I will experiment with on the side until I feel I am consistent enough with them.  I have always been known among my friends as being super good with iron approach shots (with the RAC's).  The only thing was I had a hard time hitting them past 175 yards.  But I could really count on the distances, they were reliable and inside 160 I was very accurate with them.  And they were quite forgiving in terms of hitting the center of the face or not.  But what they didn't have was "distance" mumbo jumbo or a thin trampoline face.

 

I have made a lot of improvements to my swing in the past year I need to pull out the RAC's and see if I am hitting them further now or if there are inconsistencies now with my changed swing.  My new swing is really much much better and more "textbook" after a lot of lessons, etc.  But its possible that I have less consistency in execution now due to it being still kind of new and not 100% grooved in.  Just guessing.  The other day at PGA superstore they set me up with the 923 Tour 7i with the next stiffer shaft compared to what I have now, and i made a series of spectacularly consistent and nearly perfect shots without hardly thinking about it, at a 170 pin location...  meanwhile right before that I hit the Forged 7i with the 5.5 shaft...and I had a handful at the pin, a smaller handful 15 yards long and one zinger 30 yards long.  I need to spend more time withthe Tours and the 6.0 shafts before I give up on new irons.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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29 minutes ago, clinkinfo said:

 

 

You should not be losing distance control with those irons, but it doesn't sound like they are a great fit anyway if you are launching them outside your desired launch window.  Respectfully, something doesn't seem right in what you're testing, or how you're testing, or what conclusions you're drawing.  Modern irons have pretty consistent distances, unless you are extracting different launch conditions from them.  You get those alternate launch conditions from changing the things discussed in this thread already, or running into on-course issues like wet, deep rough, etc....  But those irons shouldn't be hitting distances all over the place, that's a huge OEM and ton's of people on this forum play that head.  It's a solid head. The best thing I can say to do is get on a launch monitor and see what's happening.  I suspect you're doing something like interpreting different places on the face as good center contact, when it isn't.  Something else is likely going on.  

 

Weird question, you're positive they are real right?  I mean, that's the other thing, counterfeit irons can be erratic and honestly, what you're describing does not sound like anything I've heard about the JPX line from Mizuno.  But in the end, if these are not working, or don't fit you well, go test other options.  Modern GI irons are pretty good, there's something that will work well.  

 

Yes I have been using trackers and keeping track of the stats.  what I am experiencing is real as reported.  Consistency with these suck.  Blame it on me if you want but they are not forgiving irons if you care about distance control.  They do crush some really long shots if that is your thing.

 

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24 minutes ago, Jeff58 said:

The problem here is that you conditioned yourself to your RAC’s weight/flex/timing mechanics for years, and your new set doesn’t match them. You then point to the club heads (which have virtually nothing to do with it), since we tend to identify the whole club by the head and wonder how they can be this bad.

 

I'm just reporting my experience and trying to find solutions mate.  In my case the problem could be the clubhead and/or could be the 5.5 shaft...or could be both...  They are lofted strong by pretty much a full club.  That alone is significant and might amplify mishits.  Also newer irons have thinner faces and have been optimized quite a lot since 25 years ago to get more ball speed.  Isn't it obvious that this would result in perfectly struck balls really flying far compared to 25 year old tech....while even slightly imperfectly struck balls would not get that support and would therefore drop back to 1995 performance or worse.  

 

I mean today I was launching my Forged 8i with well struck flushed shots, high with draw....190 yards.  But there is definitely about 30 yards of variability with that iron that depends a lot of whether i execute all my swing thoughts and get optimal everything...if I don't...there is a drop in performance within a 30 yard range.  With the RAC's it was never remotely possible to hit my 8i 190 yards.  Well at least I never did.  Maybe I should try them again to see if that is still true for me, but really they had a much more narrow range of possible distance for cleanly hit shots...  which is exactly what I find missing in the Forged....with the JXP forged I cannot count on the distances whatsoever.  They are fun to hit, but not fun to play a round with.

 

The guy at PGA superstore, not a PGApro, saw my stats on the machine and was impressed with everything I was doing...good stats....  ok.  Then he suggested that with my 85mph clubhead speed (7i) I might want the next stiffer shaft.  We tried that with the Tours and I hit about 10 perfect shots in a row.  According to TrueTemper site, with 85mph clubhead speed I should probably be in the 5.5 shaft, which is what my Pro thought too when he fit me last year.  But I might be right on the border as the 5.5 is for people that swing in the 70's too.  But I definitely don't swing my 7i over 90mph, which I think is really what the 6.0 is meant for.  The 6.0 is also a bit heavier which is theory would have a bit lower ball flight, but we were tracking my shots 100 feet high...so seems like it was working well for me..  I need to test it out some more.  But Personally I had much better experience with the stiffer shaft the the Tours, even though they are allegedly considered less forgiving.  I found them to be more consistent and I hit plenty far.

 

Edited by Dewdman42
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6 minutes ago, Dewdman42 said:

 

Yes I have been using trackers and keeping track of the stats.  what I am experiencing is real as reported.  Consistency with these suck.  Blame it on me if you want but they are not forgiving irons if you care about distance control.  They do crush some really long shots if that is your thing.

 

 

 

You seem like you're a very angry person in some of your posts, I'm not sure if that's how you mean to come across or not.  But sometimes you need to take a step back and start over.  So let's just ask the question this way, do you think if the JPX line of Mizuno irons was as inconsistent as you've presented that they would be as popular and used as they are?  Probably not, right?  So there's likely something else going on.

 

Trackers are not going to help you understand what's happening.  They measure the outcome.  You need to understand WHY you're having those inconsitancy problems.  In order to do that, you need to see the impact and launch data.  For example, are you getting inconsistent ball speeds, are you getting inconsistent strike locations, are you getting inconsistent spin, are you delivering the club differently on some shots.   All of that data will help you understand why you're getting such erratic results.  And for the record, I'm not doubting that you're getting erratic results.  I'm just trying to point out, as @Jeff58 is, that it's possible it's not for the reason(s) you think! 

 

 

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20 minutes ago, Dewdman42 said:

angry?  whoa...not at all...

 

Ok, sorry, i misread then.  Like I said, if you are set on keeping the Mizuno's I think you need some monitor time to see what's happening.  If you're as consistent as you think, but for some reason are getting crazy variance in the launch data you know something is wrong with the clubs themselves.  If however you start to see variations in impact and delivery data, you know you're doing something different in each swing.  The tracker data isn't going to help you understand any of that.

 

Honestly, it seems obvious that something in this set and you don't get along well.  Shafts, weighting, something. You shouldn't be having trouble getting the 5 iron airborne. There's no real point struggling if they don't work, there's not a ton of improvements in the iron world anyway.  Yeah, some will maybe give higher smash, but you can play well with old irons, many people do. And there's lots of other GI irons to try, i promise they are not as inconsistent as you think they are, there's just something not working for you in this particular set.

Edited by clinkinfo
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