Modern shafts in classic blades?

[gohatters]

Thinking about picking up a vintage set of blades. Maybe something in the Ben Hogan line form 60’s or 70s.

Does anyone have experience putting modern shafts in a set like that? Anything unusual I should look out for. I’d probably stick with something like dynamic golds to keep the classic look. But wasn’t sure if there’s something else I should consider. Thanks!

[raggal62]

Hogans from those years were pinned which make reshafting more involved. Also just be aware that they used .355 taper tip shafts.

[No_Catchy_Nickname]

I've bought vintage sets in the past and re-shafted, and the lesson I have learnt is this: first, play them as they are. You might be pleasantly surprised.

If you do reshaft, I can't add anything more than what raggal62 told you.

 

[TimK1]

I have a tendency to think that those older clubs work the best with the shafts that were in there to start. Saying that though, I really don't know. I have never done it. I like my shafts and the entire club heavy.

[Swingingk]

I've done this a few times too and I would have to echo what the other guys are saying: I wouldn't bother unless you have a good reason such as a broken shaft, bad ferrules, or a flex that's way out of your range. It can be fun to do (a good reason to go for it!) but the benefits are questionable.

If you do decide to give it a try I would suggest leaving all measurements as close to stock as you can. Don't be tempted to "bring them up to modern specs" with longer shafts and/or bending them strong - that tends to wreck them in my experience.

Older clubs tend to be weaker spec-wise than modern clubs. Learning to live with an older 7 iron that performs like a modern 9 iron is the trick - if your ego can handle it. A 60's 3-pw set will often compare very similarly to the specs of a modern 5-Pw, +AW, +GW set.

[BIG STU]

I am not against shafting them for the purposes of playing them. In my case my back will not let me swing say a Apex 4 or 5 anymore and a Pro Pel 2 will strain me after 9 holes or so. Now I am of the school of the lengths they were designed at and not trying to jack lofts. Like Swinging says I absolutely have no ego problem at all hitting my 7 iron where others hit their 9 iron. But I am a firm believer in getting them where you can play them. LOL love it when playing with guys that say like " I hit my 50* gap wedge" I laugh and state where I come from 50* is a PW. In reality my Mac VIP PW is 48* but I know how to tone it down to 50* or 52*

[gohatters]

Thanks everyone!

I’ll definitely try them as-is first. I wouldn’t use them as my daily set so I’m totally fine with the ego hit of clubbing up. I can always pick up a few cheap hybrids to fill the gap at the top end of my bag if needed. My home course is pretty short anyways. More shotmaking than distance. And wouldn’t dream of touching the lofts (kinda defeats the purpose).

My main concern is that I don’t want to have to change up my tempo too much when I use them so I might want something stiffer. But we’ll see. I’m excited just to try them out.

[mike3847]

Gres up playing my uncle's hand me down blades,( dynapowers, Hagen's, Mac. Tourneys). Agree the shafts they came with probably as good as anything you would change to. Any consensus out there on which modern blades offer the most forgiveness as well as playability ???

[Richard 77]

I know this is an older thread but I’ll ad my 2 cents. I’m 79 , soon to be eighty. I ve played senior shafts now for a few years. I have several sets of classic clubs so I had a set of KARSTEN II iron that I had re shafted with TT XP95 lightweight steel,regular flex double soft stepped. After a few trips to the range I don’t think I would do it again. I don’t hit them any farther or higher than the stock shafts. I think now I should have used TT l lites at 12 bucks a shaft instead of 26 plus 12 each labor. I probably won’t be able to get back what I have invested. Probably put them on eBay with a buy now/ best offer.

[Gsea]

I was just thinking of this today. I got a set of 77 apexs with the legend shafts. I hear everyone say the legends were junk. Was thinking of replacing them with some modern shafts but debating if it takes away the "old school" tag. A conundrum :)

 

[SteveNZ]

What do you guys find with regard to swingweight when you put newer shafts in old blades? I've got some '68 VIPs (by Nicklaus) that I want to put TT DG R300s in (ferrules were shot, shafts that were in them were a bit stout for me and weren't original anyway), but when I dry fit and do some measuring, the SW comes out at about C5!

Does that sound about what you'd expect? Obviously I'll want to add some weight

[dg18]

I reshafted a set of Wilson fg17 irons with dg r300 with sensicore many years ago They were 1/2 Inch over standard original..Took them out yesterday and they felt great,could even hit the 1 iron.

[Swingingk]

That's a fine combo in my opinion. I dropped PX 6.0's in mine and I love em'.

[routhww]

What’s the steps you need to take for shafts that have pins? Would they not be more susceptible to rust if the holes aren’t predrilled and treated?

[Bigarch]

I use these to fill the pin holes. I cut the them in half and then with a dab of epoxy on the end, tap it into the hole with a hammer. It will flatten and spread out as you hammer it. But once it's flush with the hosel, I take a razor blade and shave down the flattened pancaked head. It's flush and it looks like a legit pin. You can't tell the difference. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Aluminum-Cut-Tack/39911745?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1475&adid=22222222227000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=42423897272&wl4=aud-430887228898:pla-51320962143&wl5=9022761&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113500168&wl11=online&wl12=39911745&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjw5vz2BRAtEiwAbcVIL4yhoxPGBUOnxJ-V_9ochWerwni_r1rhjPUbmER0jvHz-6dIHcz_yBoC0LAQAvD_BwE

[Jtgavigan]

I got a set of Wildon Staff blades once and went to reshaft them and the heads were threaded. I couldn't get them off and didnt have a leverage block. I got one after that but haven't needed it. I had to get 2 or 3 of them drilled out after I broke the shafts off inside the hosel. It was a mess.

[Steele47]

Wildon does not get the respect they deserve.

[BIG STU]

Yep that sounds about right on the Macs--- Those old Brunswick shafts were heavy because they are so thick walled. I have Hogan Apex #2s in my VIPs and gobs of lead tape. Even though I have a SW scale I do not put my personal stuff on it. I go by feel. If tip weights do not bother you you can add weight there. Personally I can not stand a club that is slugged in the hosel or tip weighted. Lead tape does not bother me one iota to get clubs playable for me. I remember when Mitchell first sent me those they were pristine and even had iron covers. I built them and had them out on the range along with a roll of lead tape. Had a guy remark " those are nice irons dammed if I would put that nasty lead tape on them" I told him the man sent them to me to play not hang on the wall. I did it my way and note I have kicked his butt with them more than one time. The heads that are really light to me are any Mizuno MP series. I remember my 33s had a bunch of tape on them. My 68s I am going to rework some when I am able to get back into the shop and work. LOL they are my "legal conforming" set of irons

[Mitchell]

@BIG STU - perfect response regarding the lead tape!?? Would have been upset if didn’t play them or even worse if put tip weights in them ?
Hope you’re getting better my friend!??

[BIG STU]

Thanks bud I guess I am progressing. 6 more weeks until I see the back doc again and then he has made it plain as toast--- SUPERVISED PT and it does not constitute swinging a golf club. The shoulder doc I was scheduled for today but tried to take the MRI and with the shoulder rig on would not fit into that one. So I have the MRI in a big machine Monday and go from there.

[SteveNZ]

Thanks Stu - I've got them all sorted out now. They're all shafted, ferruled and gripped. May need some tape here and there but they're pretty close to where I want them.

It's funny you say that about MP-33s. Mine have always felt very light to me (I reshafted them without giving to much thought to swingweight etc), but after some research I discovered that Mizuno (and some other manufacturers) produce 'A' and 'B' heads - one is standard weight and the other is 9g or so lighter to allow for over-length builds. So I pulled the shaft from the 3i head, and sure enough it was 9g lighter than a standard 3i head weight. These are going to need some tape haha - and high-density tape at that!

[BIG STU]

My buddy the Miura dealer ( now retired) turned me on to the fact about Mizuo heads being light especially the 30 series. I rebuilt my 68s going from a S-400 to a R-300 And boy are they light. Who ever put the S-400s in them had put a bunch of hosel weight in to begin with. When I got them I could somewhat hit them but hooked the snot out of them especially the short irons. First time I hit them I told my buddy Bear someone has tip weighted the heck out of them. I remember the first one I pulled down when I heated it up the lead ran out like a river. I have messed with a couple of them since reshafting but have not done a full run yet. Kida put the project on the back burner so to speak

[baloo]

I've done s300s in vintage Hogan blades and they played beautifully. How about vintage shafts in modern clubs though??

Tonight I tip trimmed a 50 year old wedge shaft from a Mac 11 iron so it would fit into a modern-ish blade putter with a .370 bore. I needed a heavier shaft and I think this will do perfectly. The Mac was free and I got the putter head for $8. I also have an s300 in my modern, Wishon 3 wood that I pulled from an old persimmon 3 wood. The s300 in my modern driver came from an old metal headed driver I got at Goodwill for a couple bucks. I think it performs just as well as the $300 shafts they try to sell nowadays. I just mix and match things I have around and it often works amazingly well. You just need to know what you like and what specs you're shooting for. Doing it by feel and trial and error is a great way to learn too IMO.

[Richard 77]

Hi. Baloo! I have a set of Spalding RTJ irons I’m thinking of having re shafted. Are the shafts pull out or are they threaded. These are first year syncro dyned. Dynamic shafts thinking of TTLite xl soft stepped twice to get close to an A flex. Any suggestions?

 

 

 

[baloo]

I haven't seen that exact model. I'd guess they're pinned, the Spaldings I have are.

If you want to save the shafts, you'll have to punch the pins out before extraction. If you don't care to save them, I know some folks cut the shafts and just drill the pins out. I guess you can also drill them out with a really long bit and save the shafts that way. I have no experience with the drilling method.

[Richard 77]

Not pinned. Are they pull out or threaded?

[baloo]

Gotcha, I unfortunately have no idea. Hopefully, someone more knowledgeable can help. You can always heat the hosel, give it a pull, and see what happens!

[Richard 77]

Having them done if I change them

[Jtgavigan]

Neither does Wilson. Well played on my ytpo. I hate ytping on tablets and phones....

[Steele47]

LOL. I hear ya. Auto this, auto that drives me nuts.