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Who chips with what?


jomatty

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Usually it works like this:

 

Low ones: 9 iron

Medium ones: GW

High ones: LW

 

Ideally for me the goal is to land it on the green and roll it to the flag, so the club is usually dictated by that factor and the lie.

 

I have one buddy who chips lights out with a 9 iron, lands it in the rough, fringe, trickles it through trouble etc. My pro actually advocates mastering one club from all lies etc but I could never get comfortable running a LW and hooding the face etc.

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Using my Vokey SM2 64.07 an awful lot lately

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50, 56 or 60, that's it

 

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TSi2 (18, A1), Tensei AV Raw White 85TX

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Since taking up the game I only use LW & SW for chipping and pitching around greens. However, since getting my 620MBs, I been looking for ways to use these beauties, so PW & 9i been used more and more for chipping and little pitches. Its fun running the ball like a putt. Normally, I'd carry the ball to short of the pin, check, bounce once and trickle a few feet to the pin.

Not lately though, I am having a moment...

Last weekend I faced an elongated back to front large heavily undulated green, pin in back on upper section 5 paces from back. There was a deep 5' wide trough in the middle of the green crossing from left to right side with a 6' rising back slope leading to the back quadrant and ten feet slightly uphill to pin. My ball was twelve feet off the front apron, leaving about 45yd LONG fun undulated pitch & run to the pin.

My buddy said good luck with that.... everyone laughed. I pulled 9i and hit a low baby pitch into the back raising slope of the trough, ball checked and bounced forward. The raising slope took enough speed off the ball, allowing my ball to roll over the top and up the slope to stop 4' under the pin, made the putt to win the hole. It's fun hitting to a spot and running the ball. What's important, PW would have required more swing/force, increasing spin and potentially hitting the slope and coming backward..

Damn I love this game, my 620MBs and any chance to relive a well executed shot in prep for my next $$$ game, which is tomorrow on another challenging course.

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I replaced Callaway MD4 52° S, 56° C and 60° PM2.0 wedges that had UST Recoil graphite shafts in them and switched to the 54° S and 58° W Callaway JAWS wedges with KBS steel shafts. I don't know if it is the heads/grooves/grinds on the JAWS wedges or returning to steel but my short game around the greens has never been better.

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54 degree SW for 75% of my shots around the green and up to 35 yards. Anything in the 40-50 yard range I'll just my 48 degree A wedge. 50-70 I will use my 44 degree PW. Left arm reaches parallel on the back swing give or take a little depending on the distance that I need. 80-85 is a full swing SW(54). I have a 58 K grind out of greenside bunkers. I will but out the 9i on a long bump and run with 50+ feet of green to work with.

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sometimes my 9 iron, most of the time though I use my Mizuno T7 wedges that I love so much

Driver-Titleist TS3 9.5* w/Project X Evenflow White 65 X-Stiff
3W-Titleist TS3 15.75* w/Project X Evenflow white 65 X-Stiff
Mizuno MMC Fli-Hi 3 iron w/KBS C-Taper 130X (bent to 17.5*)
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Mizuno T7 56/10 w/KBS C-Taper 130X soft stepped
Bridgestone Tour B X

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My philosophy is to get the ball on the putting surface as soon as you can, and then treat it like a putt. So I will chip with any iron, whatever I think is needed to get the ball over the fringe and have the proper rollout. And also, being from Texas, I am well practiced at taking a fairway or hybrid and rolling the ball over short grass from lies that prevent an easy chip or pitch.

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I am slowly converting from using my 58 for everything. I haven't quite mastered the 8 iron chip yet, but I am down to using the G wedge that matches my irons for 80% or so of my chips, and that change has seemed to help immensely. Even if I don't hit it very well my proximity to the hole is much better than when I mess up with my 58. Hopefully by the end of the summer I'll be able to work my way to utilizing an 8 or 9 iron.

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Mizuno JPX-921 Hot Metal Pro 4-5 Irons - KBS Tour Regular Flex Steel Shafts

Mizuno JPX-921 Forged 6 Iron - G Wedge - KBS Tour Regular Flex Steel Shafts 
Titleist SM9 54 and 58 
Scotty Cameron Phantom X6 CS (34")

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Still experimenting. I find it fascination how much harder ut is to hit the ball chipping versus full swing. I need to hit it hard to get solid contact...

I have up on my lower wedge. The weight of my i3 pw really helps me. The 50 degree cbx digs to much and is to light. Same with my 56 wedge. The 60 can go under the ball even.

Gonna try my 22 degree hybrid as well. Maybe I can sacrifice a club for a chipper...

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In my 1st line set I carry a 50, 54 and 60 degree wedges and default to the 54 in most cases. If I have to go over a bunker or something I go with the 60.

In my 2nd line set of old Ping Eye2s I have a W, S, L and a Chipo. I default to the W around the green and the Chipo for low rollers with a lot of green to work with.

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You shouldn't have to hit the ball hard to ensure solid contact, I don't. Its all about how you address the ball, arm position and ball position in your stance, and face angle for short pitch or chip shots. Try keeping your right elbow reasonably close to your right hip.

A chipper IMO is redundant because we already have a number of clubs for pitching and chipping. Yesterday my buddy kept coming up way short and too long on his apron chipping, problem was he kept putting the ball in the middle of his stance; never do that. On #18 my ball was on the back apron, setting up, and the pin was in front of the green 35yds away, it was all down hill from my ball. Using PW, put the ball off the toe of my right shoe, hands set forward. Using a putting grip and stroke, chipped the ball over turf on to the green and watched it track like a putt to 2' right of pin for tap in par.

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Depends on the lie and what green looks like. If it needs to clear anything or come to quick stop. If it has a chance to roll in, i'll keep it low.

 

P, 52, 56, 60. Usually im hitting 56 or 60.

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Yeah once in a blue moon I hit the chip right the help with some spin make golf clubs superior to chipper that just rolls besides you can choose easier how much jump you want. But it´s once every blue moon on short chips. On harder chips I can get the exact ball flight I want but it just won´t work when you can´t apply any power :( I don´t lift the ball but it still tend to be flop shots with no spin when I am actually hitting the ball. It can work but its not the ball flight I had when I was a newbie chipping. It was easier then.

I miss to often that is the pro with a chipper. 100 % successrate hitting the ball. You never totally miss though it can often get harder to get really close to the pin when you actually chip right with an iron. Which is why you never see chippers on the pro tour.

It´s so disgusting I know exactly what to do but it´s so hard to control the clubhead with shorter backstrokes and no power to stabilize my swing it´s destroying my mind. Controlling the backswing of a putter is hard enough. And have the mindset to hit hard means there is a lot of overshooting because it´s better then a duff...

 

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In the wind and mud of winter, I got burned trying to use a 54 uphill this weekend. Even with a lot of work, conditions trump all else. Went back to 9-iron "putting", toe down, and got the win.

Don't do what you always do when what you always do isn't right. :)

Edit: A lot of posts seem to be describing shots a lot longer than what I call a chip. A chip to me is a shot that I am intending to roll on the green for a majority of travel.

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

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Most of the time on a typical chip shot I'm trying to get the ball rolling like a putt as quickly as possible.

 

I'll use whatever club I have to in order to do that. Yesterday I had one up against the collar that I used a hybrid on. I had a 7 iron runner. A couple LW high shots.

 

If I balanced out the averages it probably works out to me using a 9 iron the most on a basic chip shot with a lot of green in front of me. My GW gets used quite a bit as well. (I find a GW for me is half roll/half carry so its very easy to judge).

 

Long story short: I use a whole bunch of different clubs to get the job done depending on lie, length, feel or stance.

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PGA pros tend to use LW & SW around greens but choice of club varies depending on conditions. What TV announcers say pros are using is often wrong. Lots of baloney flows from their lips.

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I have to respectfully disagree. I used to subscribe to the "put the ball back in stance and move hands way forward and use putting stroke"...(essentially my hands and arms and club created a lower case "y")...then I saw a video on TXG from Gareth something or other and it totally revolutionized my short game. when your hands move forward that much, you are essentially removing the bounce and this eliminates the advantage a wedge has. Designers increase bounce, to increase forgiveness. Since adopting a neutral ball position and actually placing my hands "leaning back" instead of forward, my short game has taken a huge step forward. It's a little awkward to be sure, but I have holed more chips in a month than I have in my lifetime. I would say that on short "carry" chips (something within 1 yard of green) putting the ball back and using the putter stroke is going to help because it's so much easier to feel the "weight" of the club and make a smooth swing. anytying outside of 4-5 ft of carry and DO NOT put the ball back. Instead use the club as it was designed utilizng the bounce. This will result in far more acceptable misses, and really good good shots.

 

To answer the original question:

 

I believe it has to do with your lie, and your bounces on your wedges, combined with whatever club you can make a "long enough swing" with.. let me elaborate... I find it very tough to make delicate short game shots, because I like to feel the momentum or "weight" of the club. In the short game, that can be tricky. So while I do apply to "get it on the green and rolling" philosophy, I found that I was taking that a little too literally. I would take a pitching wedge from 2 ft off the green and try to land it at 1 ft on the green and let it roll for say 12 ft. In theory, it should work, the problem was, it was too easy to decelerate through the shot and I would end up skulling or hitting fat. You also have to consider what bounce is going to work for your situation. Is it wet and sketchy? higher bounce; is it firm and tight? lower bounce. I carry wedges that have 8*, 12*, and 10* bounce. For tight lies, use the 8*, for most everything else, use the 10 or 12 depending on roll out necessary. You can adjust for each specific scenario by opening or closing the club (adding or removing bounce).

 

So now, I determine which club has the lowest loft, the right bounce for the lie (even if that means opening it or closing it a little) AND will allow me enough of a swing to feel momentum (for reference as a right-handed golfer, my left hand has to reach my back leg at least (generally speaking) to give myself a chance).

 

An example may be, I'm 4 yards off the green. I am in damp light rough, not too grabby, and the pin is say 4 yards onto green. I could do a 56 with 12* or a 52 with 10* (60* with 8* is too likely to dig)...because I want less roll out, since I have to carry 3 yards, I may open the 52 (giving it extra bounce and loft) vs going with the 56 because I would want to open the 56 a little too, it could have too much bounce, which could cause me to skull it....

Another example may be: on fringe or fairway, 2 yds off green, pin is 20 ft on and slightly uphill...could do a 52, a pw, a gw, or a 9i. 9i is out becuase I would have to swing it too light, same with pw. So I would probably opt for GW ball "slightly" back of center and push my hands "partially" forward...then make a small but "felt" swing....

 

I would say, all variations are workable. I've had success with one club only, with all clubs, with putter only etc, that being said, when thinking about getting the ball on the green as quick as possible, remember, that it is get it on the green as quick as possible to a reasonable putting line....essentially your looking for the spot where you feel you can "lag putt" without issue...for example if you have a 100 ft putt, that is a hard lag putt, your two-putt % would be less than 80%, thats not a great place to "get it on the green"....instead maybe look for the spot that is 50ft where your lag putting % goes way up....note, I am not saying you are trying to stop it there, I'm simply trying to quantify that you want to be cognisant of getting the ball "rolling on the green" from a place that is a relatively easy putt...that gives you much better chance of seeing the landing spot and choosing your club approrpriately.

 

Hope that helps!

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You are welcome to do things differently. Disagreeing with my approach has no impact on me, as my way has proven effective for me over thirty years and many others I have helped with chipping and short pitch shots. I practice almost daily on my own small wedge range using 8* LW, SW or PW and 9i. Though I didn't get my techniques from Phil M, low bounce and various techniques work for him too. Bounce can be someone's friend if they need it, I don't.

There are all sorts of techniques though, so have at it. A tight pin on a fast 12 stemp green and carry a few feet or yards it's a toe down raised heal (no bounce used) LW or SW with a putting stroke. When it comes to chipping and little pitch shots into the middle of the green, I agree with Phil M; the ball is either forward or back of center. In the middle the person hasn't made a shot decision. Have a good day.

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I have used the 8 iron quite a bit this year with better results than the 54 that I was using mostly before. Another vote for the 5H as well. With the 8 and the 5H I’m using more of a putting action than chipping motion.

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