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Heating Club head - Hosel Paint damage?


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Hi,

I am getting ready to soft step my ping i200’s ( need it 1/2 an inch longer and I can use a little less stiffness)

I use a butane torch to heat the hosel and get the shafts out. However the pings have the Dot and the logo on the hosel and I am worried that it may get damaged with the heat. Any experiences and how to do this safely?

thanks....

 

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Butane is the right torch, as it is a lower heat than other torches. Keep it moving and dont keep the flame in one spot. Only heat it enough to get the head off. If a steel shaft, you should be able to twist it off. I use welder's gloves to do so, since the head gets extremely hot. I also have some rubber inserts for my vice to hold the shaft and not damage it.

 

I also have a shaft puller for graphite shafts. I keep putting pressure on the head until it pops free. Lower heat and more force are best for the concern you have, regardless of the shaft type.

 

 

Titleist TSI3 8°, Xcaliber Avalon 6 tour stiff, tipped 1", C3 surefit and H2 for backweight, D1 SW, 45 3/8", 40g counterbalance weight;

PING G425 LST 3 wood, set at 13.5° Xcaliber T6* tour stiff, tipped 1 1/4" 43 1/2", D1, 20g counterbalance weight;

Snake Eyes 19° Quick Strike Tour, Xcaliber T6+ Tour Stiff, 20g counterbalance weight;

Maltby TS-1 irons, Dynamic Gold Sensicore X100 (4i is DG X100 soft stepped 1.5 times), D3, 2° flat;

Cleveland RTX Zipcore wedges, black satin, 50°, 54°, 58°, all 2° flat;

Ping TR series Anser 5, 33", 2° flat, 1.5° strong, 75g optivibe at 2" down the shaft and a 12g tourlock pro+ counterweight

Srixon Z Star XV, TP5X, or Maxfli Tour X

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Big difference between steel and graphite shafts. Steel is easy to pull - really nothing to worry about.

Graphite requires the right equipment - specifically a shaft puller or extractor and a bit more skill to make sure you apply enough heat evenly over the full hosel to break the bond quickly, but not so much that you damage the shaft. Too much time is actually more likely to result in damage then the temperature used. Some people can take it on and have no problems on the first time, others can struggle. So if you really want to make sure you don't damage the shaft, you might want to find some old or cheap graphite shafts to practice on first.

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The i200 have the interference fit hosel design. Those buggers can be challenging to pull sometimes. I recommend a good sturdy vice clamp, not those full rubber jobbies that come with grip change kits.

I use a full sized propane torch directly on the hosel for about 15 seconds. Then grab the head and twist (assuming steel shafts.) If the shaft turns in the clamp use one hand on the head and the other on the grip. If still no go then heat for another 5-7 seconds. If you keep the heat on the hosel the head won't even get hot (I don't use a glove.)

The i200 uses special collared ferrules. Golfworks sells them.

If you get a little color on the hosel during the heating process some Bar Keepers Friend will remove it. That shouldn't happen if you keep the head down to the times specified here though.

 

Ping G400 Max driver w/Aldila Rogue 125 Silver
Ping G425 5 wood & hybrid
Ping G30 irons w/Recoil 95

Ping G425 irons w/Accra ICWT 2.0 95
Ping Glide wedges w/Recoil 110
Ping Redwood Anser - the "real deal!"

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