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fixing slice with in to out swingpath ( looked like shanks)


klauban

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You should get a lesson. All of the things you are trying to adjust very late in the swing are byproducts of what happens well before that. You said you are steep in transition, well figuring out why would likely be much more beneficial than thinking about arm rotation.

 

The longer the club the harder it is to square the face and the less you hit down on it, the less path is shifted right. 3W is even harder since it's a long club but you still need to manage low point and hit down on it (but not too much down). Driver is more forgiving since it's teed up and low point can be in front or behind the ball while still being able to make solid contact.

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OK, I'll give it one more try.
Driver's easier to square up because it's teed up. 3 wood, especially on the ground tempts the player to hit down more which also tends to swing even more out-to-in. Swinging upward at the teed up ball it's a bit easier to come from a bit more inside (or less out-to-in).
"Release". I don't know what the "modern take" on the release is (I'm assuming "late") but you have 2 extremes. Very, late a la Sergio, and very early, a la Stricker and DeChambeau(?). And of course most are somewhere in between.
It refers to the wrists releasing. Try not to focus too much on the release and let things rotate naturally (for you). During the swing you seldom move exactly as you do in "slow mo". In slow mo you're rotating your arms and wrist slowly to get to your desired outcome so of course they square up the club face. In swinging the club, as you've discovered (again) it's a different story.
"Motorcycle move". Don't like the name because on a motorcycle it's the right hand that does that "move" and it's mostly the left hand we're looking at (even though the right hand WILL do the "motorcycle move" as it follows along at the left hand's "instruction").
What you really want at address and at the top (and then of course at impact) is a flat left wrist. i.e. NOT like Dustin Johnson or Daniel Berger - unless you play like them that is. LOL
If you hold your left arm with palm and fingers pointed straight away from you you will see a slight curvature of the wrist (towards the target). You likely have this same curvature when addressing the ball. This curvature is what you want to flatten out. Put the a club in your hands. Unless your left wrist is already flat, flattening it will tend move your wrist slightly towards the target and will also close and deloft the club slightly as well. THIS is what the "motorcycle move" is trying to get you to do.
Further, you mentioned trying your grip a little stronger but after @naj959 talked about your grip possibly needing to be stronger we never heard about it again. A grip that's too "weak" will certainly have the club face more open at impact than a stronger grip (all else being equal of course).
Where are you "V's" pointing at address ?

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First, I am certain the headcover does exclude out to in. ( We discussed it above).

If I use a strong grip ,3-4 knuckles showing, I can hit the woods but then start hooking the iron, ofc. I read that it is not advised to use different grips for different clubs.

Besides, I heard Zac Johnson say that his strong grip can reduce distance ( Did not make sense to me at first but I thought that would be worth considering).

With a very strong grip my wrist is cupped at top pf BS. I read that this can happen sometimes. Hence, I figured the very strong grip is kindof bad for me.

The normal grip has left hand V pointing between neck and right shoulder.

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You're "certain" ? You're wrong. Yes, we discussed the headcover before. The headcover does NOT exclude out-to-in PATH. All it proves is your PATH doesn't hit the head cover.
However, your BALL FLIGHT PROVES your clubface is OPEN TO PATH.
It doesn't tell us WHERE your path actually is. Maybe your path IS down the BLUE target line. Then the clubface is pointing at the YELLOW line and the ball flies way right. So the picture I posted in Post #10 is exactly correct except for the location of the head cover. Or you could be lined up with the YELLOW line as your target line, swinging along THAT path with your face open to that path, which might account for your "3 fairways over" original comment.
If the strong grip "fixes"(?) your (woods) problem but causes issue with the irons we now have a different issue, no ? Yes, Zach Johnson has a strong grip. And he plays a DRAW. He doesn't slice it 3 fairways over. So what's your point ? I thought you wanted to hit it straighter - now you want to hit it further ?
Your strong grip will cause some extra cupping at address but THEN you use the "motorcycle move", and flatten your wrist at address which will also, as mentioned slightly close/deloft. The flattening at address is a starting point and intended to help you keep your wrist flat(er ?) throughout the swing. The cupped wrist at the top is you. From cupping at the top point you are very likely to deliver the club face OPEN - your (biggest ?) problem.
I'm with @Krt22 again - time to post the video or let it die.

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I mean : with my current grip (more neutral) I have a flat wrist at top of BS. With the very strong grip it is cupped. I read in another forum that this can happen with a strong grip. I did not understand it cause I knew that strong grip closes the face ,while cupped at top means open.

 

Regarding the path: I am certainly alligned to the target parallel to the ball ad the headcover. Do not understand how I could come out to in and not hit the headcover.

I see what I can do about a video.

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Best course - take lessons with a really good teaching pro - in person best (playing lessons can be really, really good) but online works too. There are good websites available but you'll have to pay - Golf Smart Academy, Athletic Motion Golf, Dana Dahlquist, Gankas, Monte Scheinblum (though not subscription he offers videos at a fee, and so on. Can also get online lessons - most have you send in video some can do online live via facebook or zoom - subscription sites often include free video lessons or at a discount. A good book is Tyler Ferrell's Stock Tour Swing (he runs golf smart academy). The short game (out to 100 yards or so) is a different swing - it is not a shorter version of the full swing - can take lessons on this too and some really good teaching pro's specialize in short game. Ditto putting.

On what the lead hand looks like at the top of the swing - can be cupped, bowed, or flat - the relationship between your hands on the club determine that given that the trail wrist is extended - if the lead hand is stronger than the trail hand then you will tend to cupped and lead hand weaker than trail then cupped - it's a range based on this relationship. 70% of measured tour guys have a cupped wrist at the top. lesson - get the trail wrist extended in the backswing and what the lead wrist looks like it looks like.

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If you have a flat wrist at the top you will have to do something in the downswing to square the face. Shallowing the club opens the face and steepening the club closes it. Throughout the swing your are balancing movements that steepen or shallow the club and open and close the face. You have to find the right matchups for your desired ball flight. I have a fairly strong grip and am cupped at the top. because of that I don't actively think about squaring the face in the downswing. It is a byproduct of my grip. If anything I need the shallowing to keep the face from being closed to my target line.
Its very possible to have a left path while still swinging down the line and miss the headcover. I believe it's called baseline shifting. Maybe to technical to explain but you have to think in 3D.
Like @Krt22 and @nsxguy said, best bet is to post a vid. We're just spitballing based off of what you've described and we all know feel Isn't real. Highly recommend iteachgolf for online instructions as well as Monte.

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