Drilling out old epoxy in graphite

[golfguycanada]

So I’ve read a number of threads on this forum in regards to clearing the tips of old epoxy. I have a set of steelfiber pulls that seemed to be pretty full from the previous build. Only information I’m looking for is should I be able to see light though the whole shaft before reinstalling or just clear the first couple of inches of epoxy?

thanks in advance any and all advice is greatly appreciated

[third-times-a-charm]

There shouldnt be 'inches' of epoxy in there to begin with. If there is - I would clear it out. If its only a 1/2" or less then I wouldnt worry.

What I do for graphite is carefully drill out the center and then heat the shaft as if im pulling a head/adapter and work it out or push it out with a screw. YMMV on that method though.

[Sons_of_Pitches]

You need to be able to see light from end to end so clean out all you can. To make the process easier you can grab one of these tools. Tool will prevent you from drilling through the sidewall of graphite shafts.

Self-Centering Shaft Tip Cleanerhttps://www.golfworks.com/self-centering-graphite-shaft-tip-cleaner/p/gw1110/

[golfguycanada]

thanks all. This is why this forum is still the best.

[Nessism]

You can buy a long 1/8" drill bit off Amazon to supplement if needed. Sometimes inexperienced builders use way too much epoxy...

[Stuart_G]

Although I know it's been reported to happen, personally I can't imagine how anyone could actually drill through the side wall of a shaft just clearing epoxy. A drill bit will always want to follow the path of least resistance and that will be the epoxy plugging up the shaft and not the composite walls of the tip. That is as long as it really is just epoxy plugging up the shaft. A brass tip weight will mess that up - but not even a self-centering jig will help you in that case. Even the lead tip weights are easy to drill out.

The much bigger concern for me is allowing the drill bit to get too hot and damaging the shaft from the combined heat and torque of the bit. Epoxy is one of the worst materials to drill in that respect. Friction causes the heat to build, which causes the epoxy to soften, which makes it harder for the bit to cut and increases the friction even more, and the cycle keeps repeating. Fortunately it's easy to avoid as long as you are aware of it. Never keep the drill bit running too long. Only use shorter bursts and check the temp of the bit periodically. If it's too hot to touch for more than a few seconds, it's too hot to use so let it cool off or switch bits.

 

[jvincent]

Another option that works really well is to just use a nail punch (or similar device) and tap the epoxy plug. It will just fall out the butt end of the shaft and there are no heating concerns.

[Adam C]

If you can get the epoxy to around 180 F, it can usually be punched through as it has softened enough at that point. That heat is still plenty low that you don't worry about damaging shaft resin.

Those Steelfibers are also more prone to epoxy seeping farther up because the tip hole is so small.

[Socrates]

I will always attempt to knock the epoxy out first. Usually the inner walls had some debris in them and not clean so the epoxy rarely bonds well so it usually will push out. I bought a brass rod from a hardware store and use that to knock the epoxy out (you can drop it into the butt end without removing the grip too). Failing that I will start with a smaller drill bit to test how much epoxy is up there. If it's just a little, I may just drill a small hole for air to go thru and move on. It really depends on the situation and I'll use my experience and judgement to determine the best course of action especially if it is a very expensive shaft.

Heat is never an option.

[bvanlieu]

Funny coincidence, I was working on a Steelfiber wedge pull yesterday and there was a lot of epoxy up the shaft, I'd wager over 2" worth. It took most of the drill bits length to work it out. Great point from Socrates, short burst with the drill to not overheat the area as it gets warm pretty quickly. There was no tip weight, just wanted to get an air hole up there for the install and it was curious how deep it was. I am a hobbyist, not a professional so I tend to take my time and not rush :)

 

 

[J_Tizzle]

I've always tried to get it all cleaned out. I've had shafts refuse to stay in a club head because the pressure from not having room for the air to go up the shaft.

[DaveGoodrich]

I usually just clamp a sharp drill bit in my vise, and then turn the shaft by hand to "drill" the epoxy out.

[Ri_Redneck]

Drill at slow speed and remove/clean the bit every 1/4" or so. If it's longer than your bit, the bore is typically starting to widen there and you can tap it out with any type of rigid non-tapered rod. Be careful using a nail set or punch because many of them are tapered and if the plug comes loose easy, you can split the shaft tip.

BT

[Socrates]

I've done that. It get old real quick if there are a few shafts involved.

[JCAG]

A 12in long, 1/8in drill bit is the tool, and as Stuart said, slow and easy when drilling.