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Bay Hill Ruined my Scotty Cameron


bert-b

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I can't believe it! I played Bay Hill today for the first time. They had just put down granular fertilizer on the greens. Before the round, I wiped down my Scotty Cameron Circa 62 with the silicon treated cloth like I always do. And, I cleaned it off after each hole and put back in the headcover. On about the 4th hole I noticed a couple of spots on the sole the size of the fertilizer granules. Sure enough, I couldn't get the fertilizer off quick enough, it ate through the black oxide finish to the metal. No matter what I did, it continued through the round.

 

I don't know who to be more disappointed with, Bay Hill or Scotty Cameron!

 

Thanks,

Bert-B

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Becuase there two totally diffrent finishes. Circa's have the Gun Blue Finish and Studio Design's have a Black Pearl finish that is nearly bullet proof.

 

People need to realize what they are buying when they get a Gun Blue Putter. It says right on the shaft band that the putter needs to be kept dry and siliconed/oiled. If people dont want to care for there putter then this is the last putter you would want. Of course, the trade off for the miatnance is the awesome finish. But the maitnance is not that big of a hastle really, I mean all you need to do is wipe down the putter and store it dry, something we all should be doing with our normal clubs anyway, the only additional step is a 10 second wipe with a oil cloth.

 

In a situation such as fertalizer etc. where the damage occurs between holes literally, just a tough pill to swallow I guess. Not much else can be said but, Many golfers try not to use the gun blue putters during a period like this or a round when its damp or wet at all.

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isn't the wear part of the aesthetic value with the circas? The old trusty and well used putter look? I can def. understand being upset though if it was an unexpected outcome.

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Guys, you can fix your putters. :cheesy:

 

First, Get some fine, very fine, and superfine steel wool. Also get a spray de-greaser and gun blue. You may want a little sponge to apply the gunblue.

 

Starting with the fine, rub the putter gently lengthwise (ie heel-toe) on all surfaces except for the sides which are rubbed front to back. Repeat this process with very fine and then with superfine. Your putter will now be stripped of it's finish. Remove the paintfill with nail polish remover, turpentine, paint-stripper, or a similar solvent.

 

Clean the putter with the spray de-greaser and apply the gun blue following the included instructions.

A couple of pointers; Wear gloves when de-greasing and gun-blueing, oil from your fingers can prevent the finish from taking properly. Allow the gun blue to dry fully before rubbing it down, this will look like a dull "haze". Also, apply a lot of coats, like 5-10. This may be time consuming, but for the finish to be completely opaque and have staying power you need that many coats.

 

You could even take some pics and post a thread.........

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Good post and well done! The opnion I have held on Gun Blue is its not really a "finish" per say, its more of a stain on Carbon Steel. Something to consider with the water and fertalizer and the affect it will have.

 

Also, if you plan on taking the rust off with Flitz and some 00000 Steel wool...you will have to go at it for a while, but cannot go to harshly, or you will end up with a Black Chrome look instead of Gun Blue.

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The problem here is that the bluing process which was used to finish the Circa putter isn't intended to be a strong protection against environmental effects. What's happening here is that the putter head is carbon steel and would rust very quickly if exposed to water or any chemical reagents. The bluing process basically forms a super thin rust (oxide) coating on the surface of the metal. The chemicals used are selected to form an inert oxide that will maintain the form of the part underneath and basically keep regular rust (also an oxide, but which isn't as strong as the steel surface).

 

This is very different than the nickel or chrome plating which most putters have. That plating is a lot thicker and a lot more resistant to environmental stuff than the bluing.

 

The reason that bluing is a traditional finish for guns is that you want to prevent rust formation, and the bluing process does this without dimensionally changing the parts. If you wanted to chrome plate gun parts that fit together with close tolerances, you would have to machine the parts smaller to account for the chrome plating, then probably machine them afterwards to get the precision back. In most cases, when a gun has to be more rust resistant (like a nautical firearm), I think they just switch to stainless steel, which is steel with the nickel and chrome mixed right in.

 

When you make a gun, I think that they avoid bluing the parts that would get a lot of contact because the finish isn't that strong. It seems like a sort of unfortunate choice for a putter head where dimensional precision doesn't matter too much, but it's guaranteed that the head will come into contact with fertilizers, pesticides and a lot of other chemicals as well as sand and water.

 

Although you can strip the finish as mentioned above, you'll just expose the carbon steel head to the environment and you'll have to worry about rust then. I think the commercial bluing process that was done originally probably involves treating the metal with chemicals then cooking it, so I doubt you'll get the same protection with a wipe-on bluing kit (if you can imagine less protection than you have now).

 

I think they should have blued the entire putter head, then sprayed some sort of varnish everywhere except the face to prevent these issues. This would maintain 99% of the feel without the finish hassles that will arise from normal use.

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Guys, thanks for all your posts. So that there isn't a misunderstanding, I knew that the gun blue finish would require some attention to keep it looking new. I don't have a problem with that and have always wiped my clubs down after each shot and at the end of the round (gun blue or chrome for that matter). I also use the silicon treated cloth provided and bought more silicon spray once the cloth started to dry out.

 

My disappointment and surprise was that even with the warnings that SC puts on the club, I didn't expect it to get trashed and require a complete refinish when I followed the instructions. I also didn't expect that a course like Bay Hill would use a granular fertilizer that would damage a club. Seriously, I couldn't even get back to my cart before the fertilizer had eaten into the finish. I even wiped down the putter with the silicon cloth once the first spots started to appear and it continued to spot.

 

In any case, I now know that I will either need to strip completely, refinish and/or use a different putter. Again, not what I expected.

 

Thanks again,

Bert-B

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Sorry but don't blame Scotty and his finish. The fertilizers clubs use would eat the paint off a battleship. There is no finish that will protect against that granule stuff. Ive seen it eat chrome nickel platings. That stuff is highly acidic in nature. If you sit an iron on the green then look at it later it will affect even those plating finishes. Something to be said for the natural look and play of most Scottish courses eh? One of my players, Tom Jenkins, used one on an alternate practice green on another part of a course one time and they had put the stuff out since the green wasn't supposed to be in play that week. I had to rig a new putter for him as it rusted out a triple black ox and a chrome nickel both. Dave

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