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Stainless, Carbon, Inserts...???????????
I'm thinkin about buying a putter and torching it. Probably to blue/purple. I've read about the basic process but am curious if anyone has an particular insight.

Chances are I would use a Newport stainless or a Studio Style Newport with GSS insert. In reference to the later, has anyone removed the insert on the SS Newport? Tips?


Any input or general discussion is appreciated.
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I actually just got done torching my studio style 1st of 500 putter. I picked it up for like $50 and I figured I would try to restore it and sell it back on ebay or something. It's really simple to torch too. First things first you should sand it down. Start with a low grit paper and work your way up to like 400 or 600. It'll look really shiny, but that will help colors really come out. Also [b]DO NOT SAND THE FACE.[/b] I did this once and completely destroyed a putter. It will take out the milling marks. So unless you want to send it in to be remilled don't sand the face. Next removing the face. All you do is unscrew the screws, heat the rubber up with like a hair dryer or torch it just a little bit, and then stick a tee or something through the screw hole and pop it out. Easy enough. Then go nuts with the torch. I torched the vast majority of mine gold, but then kept going untill just the back bumper was purple and it turned out really well. After that just use some caulk to reattach the face and it's good to go.

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Yep, remove the screws, slightly warm it and push from the back. As for sanding, if you want the colors to really pop, you'll want to go with a fine grit, 1,000 or more. I'd leave the topline matte so that the glare doesn't kill you, I usually sand mine all over very shiny and mask everything off and beadblast the topline, glare is killer in Georgia.

As for torching, make sure you move the torch back and forth rapidly so that it's even, or use 2 torches like I do when I do mine. I'd find a liquid elastomer if I could, but caulk will work if worse comes to worse.

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When speaking about removing the face, you're talking about inserts right? As with the Studio Select GSS insert? What's your opinion on timing? I've heard about 16-18 minutes for purple/blue?

PS- The Studio Select Newport with GSS insert has a matte finish I think. Does that need to completely come off? Sand paper or the coke soak? or both?

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[quote name='nobreak1970' timestamp='1280945251' post='2618267']
[quote name='golfermax78' timestamp='1280892873' post='2616921']
I actually just got done torching my studio style [b]1st of 500 putter. I picked it up for like $50[/b][/quote]

Sorry to derail but WHERE DO YOU FIND THESE THINGS!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

erm.....


Carry on.
:)
[/quote]

hahahaha yeah the guy that runs the proshop near me has no clue about the value of things so things worked out well in my favor. Do you have any idea how much it would sell for on ebay because now I'm debating keeping it.

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[quote name='Rugger' timestamp='1280937360' post='2617962']
When speaking about removing the face, you're talking about inserts right? As with the Studio Select GSS insert? What's your opinion on timing? I've heard about 16-18 minutes for purple/blue?

PS- The Studio Select Newport with GSS insert has a matte finish I think. Does that need to completely come off? Sand paper or the coke soak? or both?
[/quote]


The higher the polish, the more the colors are going to pop. With my 2 torch method, I can get blues and purples in 10 minutes. Single torch method, about 15-20, depending on the club. Coke isn't going to make it go from matte to shiny, just make it sticky. You'll have to either sand it or torch finish it as is. I'd do it as is first and see if you like it (and it'll have less glare). You can always strip it off and start over if you don't like it, or want to go back to stock. If you don't have a bead blaster though, hard to go back matte without paying someone to do it.

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Color to time ratio varies wildly by material, mass, heat, and probably other variables. I torched an 8802-style head to beautiful blues in 30 minutes ( 15 minutes twice, quenched in between ), and the last thing I torched, a 588 wedge head, was past blue and almost completely purple in 4. Same single propane torch. I would not torch "by time". Keep your eyes on the item, and stop when, or slightly before, it hits your target color.

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