Custom Paintfills

[hammerheel]

Easy as applying nail polish?

I'm interested in customizing some putters and was wondering about the paintfill and how it could be done. Could anyone give some insight?

[djl0657]

Most of us use some form of enamel (I use TESTORS model paint in the small jars, available at hobby shops). I've never tried nail polish but imagine that it would work as well.

Spread the paint in the hole/lettering that you want to fill and wipe off the excess with a rag that has some acetone on it. Repeat until you are satisfied. It might take some practice, but you will get good results. Sometimes the finished product looks better when you do the same section two or three times to completely fill the space, allowing to dry between applications.

[jcamn1]

[quote name='hammerheel' date='20 June 2010 - 10:48 PM' timestamp='1277092126' post='2522645']
I'm interested in customizing some putters and was wondering about the paintfill and how it could be done. Could anyone give some insight?
[/quote]

I use Nail Polish all the time...Works the easiest for me.

[rrkman]

search around in here and you'll find lots of threads about it. Everyone does it a little different but the main idea is along the lines of...

1. Use some sort of paint remover/thinner to remove the old paintfil. I use acetone. Some people often leave the old paint on and just cover it.....I've never tried that but depending on the colors and stuff, should work.

2. Apply new paint. I use testors enamel for 'solid' colors and Tamiya clears for 'translucents'....I've also used glow in the dark hobby paint, hobby paint with sparkles in it, etc. Lots of paint out there to try....some are more durable than others but you won't know how it holds up in your environment until you give it a try. I usually apply with a toothpick.....I've used syringes, brushes, etc. but have found that toothpicks work best for me. Some use the bottle applicators that have a syringe attached.....I haven't found any around me yet and I'm ok with toothpicks so I haven't ordered any....but, I would assume that if you did a lot of paintfil, it would be nice to have them.

3. How much paint? Again, personal preference. I've seen people just pour it on, scrape off the excess, let it dry, then clean it all up....turned out great. I'm at the opposite side of that. I use just enough paint to almost fill up the area, let it dry (when it is dry, it will have shrunk a fair amount)....then I have very little clean up to worry about. This is also the only way to do multiple colors in the same vicinity. It is very easy to spread the colors into each other...especially with the acetone. The thing about technique is that it probably takes the same amount of time either way....you can either quickly put the paint on and spend more time cleaning it up....or be neat with the paint and spend very little time cleaning it up....if that makes sense.

4. Clean up. I use q-tips and acetone. Again, I use very little acetone and 'roll' the q-tip tight to avoid loose strings getting into other areas. Also, if you use a lot of acetone, it can quickly run into other areas and all over the putter....then you have to worry about cleaning that up as well. Best tip for clean up is to wait until it is COMPLETELY dry. You can try to save time and start the clean up a little early but for me, it usually messes it up a little and I end up doing it again. If the paint is completely dry and you took your time (not too messy)....clean up is a breeze. Just lightly wipe off any excess or spillage....and you're done. I also use a paper towel with a little bit of acetone on it as well. just pull it tight over you finger and lightly over the area....works well for lettering and things like that.

5. Once you become addicted to changing paintfil.....repeat as necessary.

[hammerheel]

[quote name='djl0657' date='21 June 2010 - 07:03 AM' timestamp='1277121789' post='2522968']
Most of us use some form of enamel (I use TESTORS model paint in the small jars, available at hobby shops). I've never tried nail polish but imagine that it would work as well.

Spread the paint in the hole/lettering that you want to fill and wipe off the excess with a rag that has some acetone on it. Repeat until you are satisfied. It might take some practice, but you will get good results. Sometimes the finished product looks better when you do the same section two or three times to completely fill the space, allowing to dry between applications.
[/quote]

Thank you very much. If I'd like to change colors again, can I just paint over it, or take acetone to it then paint? I'd be looking to do this on a Rife Aruba which looks like it just has lettering. It's hard to tell from the stock pictures.

[RookieBlue7]

Don't just paint over it, remove the original paint and put fresh down. The colors will bleed through and mix if you don't remove the old paint. Also, most of us don't use Testors. Some do and some don't. I never used Testors because it doesn't last in every test run I've had. It peels or chips in a short amount of time. I've tried: Testors, Model Masters, Mr. Color, nailpolish, and pretty much anything Hobbytown USA had. Tamiya X-Acrylic by far is superior to all of them. It lasts longer, they have more colors then anyone, and it applies the smoothest. Our resident paintfill expert (Deerslayer) also uses Tamiya X-Acrylic, spoken about in his DIY. Save some time experimenting and start with the best.

[rrkman]

See....like I said - lots of people prefer different paints. I've always used the testors enamel and have never had a single 'durability' problem. But, I also have a great deal of respect for deerslayer's opinion and if he feels that the tamiya x-acrylic is the best...it must be pretty good.

[Qstick333]

When you are doing the clean-up, do you let everything dry first and then clean or get it while it is wet?

Zach <----very dense....

[kencanuck]

I have used Testors and Tamiya with equal success but I play in a very dry climate so perhaps that has an impact. I use several applications and let each application thoroughly dry (usually about 12 hours minimum).

As far as clean up goes I normally wait until the paint is thoroughly dry and then I use the same technique as the poster above. A little acetone on a Q-tip and patience. To be honest the more I have done the better my technique is and I normally don't have much to clean up. I agree the toothpick is the way to go...I used to paint small lead figurines and I was good with a brush but the toothpick was WAY easier...

Ken

[jonb20283]

+1 on using acetone , q-tips , and testors to fill back in.

[nyusigep]

I've only done two putters, both with nail polish. Very easy and no durability issue. I just use the nail polish brush. Like others have mentioned, it just means it takes me less time to apply the paint, but more time to clean it up after the paint dries. One tip I have is to take a paper towel and stretch it over a credit card for a smooth hard edge. Pour a little acetone on it, and lightly go over the area where there is excess paint. Usually does the trick for me.

+1 on making sure you let the paint dry completely before attempting to remove the excess.

[rlheiman]

Nail polish. I found a very well respected putter maker uses nail polish. Cheap, dries fast and comes with a brush.

Acetone to clean up excess.

[cmrl1986]

hell the best thing i have found for the actual paint are the paint markers you can get at walmart, do a great job and the finish comes out awsome. easier to control than nail polish as well.

[Relaxxx]

Could I use Q-tips instead of toothpicks?

[nyusigep]

[quote name='Eternal_Envoy' date='21 June 2010 - 06:56 PM' timestamp='1277160978' post='2524527']
Could I use Q-tips instead of toothpicks?
[/quote]

I think it will be hard to apply paint using a Q-tip. The cotton head is not exactly built for precision and/or to spread the paint evenly. I do use a Q-tip with acetone to clean off the excess.

[hammerheel]

I was looking around and found this picture. Take a peak near the hosel. Is that how you are supposed to apply the paint? I assumed you would just take a brush and fill in the spots you wanted as neatly as possible.

[RookieBlue7]

The easiest method is to use a needle tipped bottle and squirt the paint in and then squigee off with a piece of cardboard cut from a cereal box. Let it dry then wipe with acetone.

Here's Deerslayer's DIYL http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm278/ATXDeerslayer/DIYPaintFill1.jpg

[hammerheel]

[quote name='RookieBlue7' date='22 June 2010 - 12:20 AM' timestamp='1277184019' post='2525331']
The easiest method is to use a needle tipped bottle and squirt the paint in and then squigee off with a piece of cardboard cut from a cereal box. Let it dry then wipe with acetone.

Here's Deerslayer's DIYL [url="http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm278/ATXDeerslayer/DIYPaintFill1.jpg"]http://i298.photobuc...YPaintFill1.jpg[/url]
[/quote]

To be clear, squirt the paint into the filling and then take a piece of cardboard over the top of it to wipe some off?

[RookieBlue7]

Correct, overfill it slightly and then use the cardboard as a squigee. You'll smear it and it'll smooth the top out. Let it dry and then wipe the overfill/smearing off with an acetone dipped rag with a quick swipe (don't let the rag sit in one place because you'll make the paint run). If you're doing multiple colors do them one at a time. Fill everything one color, swipe it with the squigee and then move on to the next color (I'd use a different side of the squigee or cut a new piece with each color so you don't chance contaminating the colors).

[dogfather526]

What is the best way to remove the old paint?

[RookieBlue7]

Depends on the club's finish, and what you're wanting to do.

Personally, if the club isn't painted (it's chromed, raw, or black oxide), I use Tal Strip aerosol. Why? Because it works the fastest and is easy to use. You spray it from the aerosol can, let it sit 5 minutes and spray it along with the paint off with a water hose. Simple as that. If it's a painted clubhead (fairway wood, driver, etc), then I use the liquid form that comes in a can similar to an acetone bottle and dab it on with a q-tip. Same principle, just more control.

Some argue it's too caustic, every product out there that works has some caustic properties is my contention, just look at their MSDS labels. Use anything you decide to use outside.

[stansoph]

I use Sharpie Paint Pens from Office or Staples. Somewhat limited on color choices but a 5 pack has red, blue, yellow, white and black. Easy to apply and very durable.

[RookieBlue7]

If you want paint pens to use, and want more than the standard assortment of colors, try the Elmer's paint pens. Lots more colors available and they work great, just ask the guys on Titleist's Tour Van.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/elmers-painters-paint-markers/

[kwijyboy]

Another trick I use is to wet a paper towel with acetone, wrap it around a pencil and wipe the excess off. Similar to the credit card method above, but with a pencil, once one side gets full of paint, you can give it a quarter roll and have a new fresh clean side to wipe with. One of the problems of cleaning up with acetone is colors running into other spots, having a clean surface to wipe with makes things easier.

[cardia10]

I know of a couple LARGE companies that use nail polish. Just brush over the area, let dry, then use acetone or nail polish remover to wipe off the excess. Color options are limitless. Just tell the clerk you are buying it for your wife/girlfriend.

[SergioKSU]

[quote name='cardia10' timestamp='1280007865' post='2596723']
I know of a couple LARGE companies that use nail polish. Just brush over the area, let dry, then use acetone or nail polish remover to wipe off the excess. Color options are limitless.[b] Just tell the clerk you are buying it for your wife/girlfriend[/b].
[/quote]

Along with the lipstick and size 11 pumps right?

[peteyang]

Thanks for all the useful info...