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DIY Spine Finder


CarloGolfer

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yours for about $10
In the spirit of the DIY Shaft Puller thread (http://www.golfwrx.c...y-shaft-puller/), I thought I'd post a DIY Spine Finder I made for about $10.

You will need four items.

You will need a 1" PVC coupling.


You will need three 5/8" ball bearings. And you will need the ones which have the lip on one end.



The ball bearings will rest on the inside lip of the PVC coupling, ensuring an ease of construction. I expoxied mine together with shafting epoxy because that's what I had. One ball bearing goes in each end of the coupling, and the last ball bearing is for use at the tip of the shaft. (search for a video on Youtube about how to find a spine). Make sure you don't get any epoxy in the bearing.

Here is what the assembly looks like complete.



Once you have it assmbled, you will need to lubriucate the bearings with WD 40. The bearings will most likely have a heavier, more viscous lubricant already inside of them. The bearings need to slide freely to find the spine. Using WD 40 before each use allows for a smooth movement.

Feel free to PM me with any questions. I purchased all the materials at Tractor Supply for +/- $10, not including the epoxy. I'm sure a good glue would be sufficient.
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[quote name='CarloGolfer' timestamp='1294524887' post='2883178']
In the spirit of the DIY Shaft Puller thread ([url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/426268-diy-shaft-puller/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...y-shaft-puller/[/url]), I thought I'd post a DIY Spine Finder I made for about $10.

You will need four items.

You will need a 1" PVC coupling.
[attachment=709351:PVCcoupling.jpg]

You will need three 5/8" ball bearings. And you will need the ones which have the lip on one end.
[attachment=709355:Ballbearing.jpg]


The ball bearings will rest on the inside lip of the PVC coupling, ensuring an ease of construction. I expoxied mine together with shafting epoxy because that's what I had. One ball bearing goes in each end of the coupling, and the last ball bearing is for use at the tip of the shaft. (search for a video on Youtube about how to find a spine). Make sure you don't get any epoxy in the bearing.

Here is what the assembly looks like complete.
[attachment=709357:IMG_6961.JPG]
[attachment=709358:IMG_6962.JPG]

Once you have it assmbled, you will need to lubriucate the bearings with WD 40. The bearings will most likely have a heavier, more viscous lubricant already inside of them. The bearings need to slide freely to find the spine. Using WD 40 before each use allows for a smooth movement.

Feel free to PM me with any questions. I purchased all the materials at Tractor Supply for +/- $10, not including the epoxy. I'm sure a good glue would be sufficient.
[/quote]

can someone post a video of using a bearing to find the spine to make this thread more complete?

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[quote name='CarloGolfer' timestamp='1294524887' post='2883178']
In the spirit of the DIY Shaft Puller thread ([url="http://www.golfwrx.com/forums/topic/426268-diy-shaft-puller/"]http://www.golfwrx.c...y-shaft-puller/[/url]), I thought I'd post a DIY Spine Finder I made for about $10.

You will need four items.

You will need a 1" PVC coupling.
[attachment=709351:PVCcoupling.jpg]

You will need three 5/8" ball bearings. And you will need the ones which have the lip on one end.
[attachment=709355:Ballbearing.jpg]


The ball bearings will rest on the inside lip of the PVC coupling, ensuring an ease of construction. I expoxied mine together with shafting epoxy because that's what I had. One ball bearing goes in each end of the coupling, and the last ball bearing is for use at the tip of the shaft. (search for a video on Youtube about how to find a spine). Make sure you don't get any epoxy in the bearing.

Here is what the assembly looks like complete.
[attachment=709357:IMG_6961.JPG]
[attachment=709358:IMG_6962.JPG]

Once you have it assmbled, you will need to lubriucate the bearings with WD 40. The bearings will most likely have a heavier, more viscous lubricant already inside of them. The bearings need to slide freely to find the spine. Using WD 40 before each use allows for a smooth movement.

Feel free to PM me with any questions. I purchased all the materials at Tractor Supply for +/- $10, not including the epoxy. I'm sure a good glue would be sufficient.
[/quote]

Funny, that's the exact same set up that I have. I went to lowes and was going to get a foot of regular PVC but when looking around saw the pvc/coupling, went back to the bearings isle and they fit perfectly in the ends after screwing the caps on.

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  • 1 month later...

About the WD40, I had a lot of experience will ball bearings like that.
Use WD40 to CLEAN the bearings. WD40 is NOT a lubricant.
Use a thin viscous lubricant like this one:
[url="http://www.yoyonation.com/product.php?productid=16220&cat=260&page=1"]http://www.yoyonation.com/product.php?productid=16220&cat=260&page=1[/url]

Just touch the exposed part of the bearing to the tip, as to get less lube than a drop.
Then spin the bearing on the end of a pin for a good amount of time, so the bearing can spin freely.
Dont use dry bearings, as they will basically ruin it over time.

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  • 2 months later...

i was at lowed and could not for the life of me find sealed bearings...

when i ask the workers... they shrug their shoulders lol

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#vietnameeh

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[quote name='CarloGolfer' timestamp='1298321690' post='2998119']
here's a video of a guy discussing the concept

[url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqlRIiz_OLE"]http://www.youtube.c...h?v=DqlRIiz_OLE[/url]

the concept, by the way, is still debated as being useful in any way
[/quote]


I don't use the bearing method, but I'm wondering why it is debated. It seems like it should be pretty easy to figure it out. Just use the bearing method on four or five shafts, mark where you think the spine is, and then cross-reference it on an accepted machine. Then you can see what the margin of error is, if there is any, and if it's really legit.

Is there more to it than that?

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[quote name='Nick West' timestamp='1304123124' post='3197079']
I don't use the bearing method, but I'm wondering why it is debated. It seems like it should be pretty easy to figure it out. Just use the bearing method on four or five shafts, mark where you think the spine is, and then cross-reference it on an accepted machine. Then you can see what the margin of error is, if there is any, and if it's really legit.
Is there more to it than that?
[/quote]

It's not so much the bearing method I think, but more how to install the shaft when the "spine planes" are found. Using the bearing method in combination with the laser method you should be able to find the most 'stable' plane. On how to orient the found planes in the head (12/6h or 9/3h) many conflicting opinions exist.

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[quote name='Vendetta' timestamp='1304173951' post='3197957']
The debated topic is if spining a shaft yields any performance increase at all.
[/quote]

not much to debate...it doesnt.

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what area should i be looking for these bearings.... apparently no one at lowes or home depot in my area carry them... or they just don tknow

PXG 0311XF Gen 5 7.5* Ventus Black 6X
Titleist 913D2 12* UST Mamiya Tour Green 75X
PXG Gen5 19* Ventus Black 10TX
Maltby TE Forged 4-G
Maltby TSW DRM 56 and 60
Taylormade Spider Long Broomstick
#vietnameeh

THE GOLF GARAGE SAN JOSE

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Most companies already cut a notch in their graphite shafts in which the spine is, I know Miyazaki does this & when was at my club makers using his it came to the exact notch they had cut into the butt. But like SST, don't know if it makes enough difference to matter on the HIGH end shafts out there.

𝗦ᴜɴ𝗧ʀᴜsᴛ 𝗧ᴀᴍᴘᴀ 𝗕ᴀʏ 𝗣ʀᴏ/𝗔ᴍ 𝗣ʀᴏғᴇssɪᴏɴᴀʟ 𝗖ʜᴀᴍᴘɪᴏɴ (-𝟭𝟮/𝟮𝟬𝟭)

68A7239E-AAC2-4873-AAB4-79AB07381822.png.1162e21eb149e0d7ca8526c3ec552f4c.png

DRIVER: 𝗧ᴀʏʟᴏʀ𝗠ᴀᴅᴇ 𝗤𝗶𝟭𝟬 𝗟𝗦 𝟴° 𝗟ᴏᴏᴘ 𝗣ʀᴏᴛᴏᴛʏᴘᴇ 𝗚𝗞 𝗫𝗫

3 WOOD: 𝗧ᴀʏʟᴏʀ𝗠ᴀᴅᴇ 𝗤𝗶𝟭𝟬 𝟭𝟰.𝟱° 𝗟ᴏᴏᴘ 𝗣ʀᴏᴛᴏᴛʏᴘᴇ 𝗙𝗪 𝗦ᴇᴠᴇɴ 𝗫

5 WOOD: 𝗖ᴏʙʀᴀ 𝗥ᴀᴅ𝗦ᴘᴇᴇᴅ 𝗧ᴏᴜʀ 𝟭𝟵° 𝗟ᴏᴏᴘ 𝗣ʀᴏᴛᴏᴛʏᴘᴇ 𝗙𝗪 𝗦ᴇᴠᴇɴ 𝗫

IRONS: 𝗧ᴀʏʟᴏʀ𝗠ᴀᴅᴇ ᴘ𝟳𝟱𝟬 𝗧ᴏᴜʀ 𝗣ʀᴏᴛᴏ 𝟯ɪ 𝗟ᴏᴏᴘ 𝗛ʏʙʀɪᴅ 𝟭𝟬𝟬 𝗫,𝗧ᴀʏʟᴏʀ𝗠ᴀᴅᴇ ᴘ𝟳𝟱𝟬 𝗧ᴏᴜʀ 𝗣ʀᴏᴛᴏ 𝟰ɪ/ᴘ𝟳ᴛᴡ 𝟱ɪ-𝗣𝗪 𝗡ɪᴘᴘᴏɴ 𝗡.𝗦. 𝗣ʀᴏ 𝗠ᴏᴅᴜs 𝟭𝟬𝟱 𝗫

WEDGES: 𝗧ɪᴛʟᴇɪsᴛ 𝗩ᴏᴋᴇʏ 𝗦𝗠𝟭𝟬 𝟱𝟰°𝗙 𝗥ᴀᴡ/𝗧ɪᴛʟᴇɪsᴛ 𝗩ᴏᴋᴇʏ 𝗦𝗠𝟵 𝟱𝟴°𝗩 𝗥ᴀᴡ 𝗡ɪᴘᴘᴏɴ 𝗡.𝗦. 𝗣ʀᴏ 𝗠ᴏᴅᴜs 𝟭𝟮𝟬 𝗫

PUTTER: 𝗕ʏʀᴏɴ 𝗠ᴏʀɢᴀɴ 𝗗𝗛𝟴𝟵 𝗧ᴏᴜʀ 𝗣ʀᴏᴛᴏᴛʏᴘᴇ 𝗪ᴇʟᴅᴇᴅ 𝗙ʟᴏᴡ 𝗡ᴇᴄᴋ 𝟯𝘅 𝗕ʟᴀᴄᴋ

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[quote name='BlakeBstone' timestamp='1304175063' post='3197987']
[quote name='Vendetta' timestamp='1304173951' post='3197957']
The debated topic is if spining a shaft yields any performance increase at all.
[/quote]

not much to debate...it doesnt.
[/quote]

Yeah, as best as I can figure, the claim that it "helps with consistancy" doesn't make much sense. The club is going to be relatively "consistant" no matter which way you have the spine oriented in the head.
If the spine does have any kind of affect in the swing, it's going to affect the degree in which the shaft deflects under load. So, even if the spine is not "properly" aligned, it's still going to be perfectly consistant, it's just that it's going to have more or less shaft deflection, that's all.....something that will inevitably be compensated for in your swing.

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  • 1 year later...

I just made one of these with some parts from the Ace hardware. I live in a college town, so the prices could have been better, but Im not complaining. jsut over $20 all day.

(3) 5/8 inch fasteners at 4.40 each
(1) pvc coupler was 4.99
(1) household super oil 2.79

followed the instruction in the beginning of this post, however, i was able to avoid using any epoxy for the bearings in the pipe. the coupler had some black rubber rings that were almost an inch thick. too small to fit the bearing into, but i just sliced them so they went around the bearing about 95% of the way. Kind of jammed that into the pvc pipe and screwed on the fitting and voila- perfect.

one last note, the store had bearing that were closer to $20 each which I briefly considered buying (im sure the man in the youtube video above used something that was top of the line). after lubing up the cheapo bearing, they do the job way better than i thought they would. the grease that was in them at the store was pretty stiff, but a little oil really did the trick.

hope this helps

Paul

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[quote name='vietnameeh' timestamp='1304176405' post='3198028']
what area should i be looking for these bearings.... apparently no one at lowes or home depot in my area carry them... or they just don tknow
[/quote]
In the hardware section where they have all those metal drawers. The best bearing are water pump sealed bearings. No need to lubricate these.
Not cheap about $6 each.
Take the coupling with you - the right bearing will just drop in the end snugly without the rubber seal - no adhesive needed.

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I bought the JB's prefab one on eBay close to a decade ago. Still going strong and I use it for everyone that isn't picky about logo orientation.

Arguing performance gains aside, there's no reason NOT to do it if you are building. Follow it up with a FLO test to compensate for club weighting and offset. All I know is that I've never had anyone dissatisfied with my builds.

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[quote name='stage1350' timestamp='1351449543' post='5858577']
Arguing performance gains aside, there's no reason NOT to do it if you are building. Follow it up with a FLO test to compensate for club weighting and offset. All I know is that I've never had anyone dissatisfied with my builds.
[/quote]

This.

Definately do the FLO test because the different head will change where you should line up the spine. Do the FLO test with the spine at a 90* angle from where it should be and you'll see why it "might" affect performance. It convinced me.

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  • 11 months later...

[quote name='BlakeBstone' timestamp='1304175063' post='3197987']
[quote name='Vendetta' timestamp='1304173951' post='3197957']
The debated topic is if spining a shaft yields any performance increase at all.
[/quote]

not much to debate...it doesnt.
[/quote]

Which is exactly why there is a debate.
There is a difference. Put a spined shaft into a frequency machine and get the number. Then flip it 90* ( not spined) and get the frequency. In many shafts you will see a huge difference. I noticed with Fujikura shafts that they have the most difference from hard side to soft side. Often 12-15 CPM's.

To the poster that I quoted.

Build 2 sets. 2 sets of exact same head weights, swing weights, loft and lie, same weight shafts, then spine a set, then completely non-spined side. See your dispersion change, and frequency of the shafts change.

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[quote name='TucsonGolfer' timestamp='1382939443' post='8067399']
[quote name='BlakeBstone' timestamp='1304175063' post='3197987']
[quote name='Vendetta' timestamp='1304173951' post='3197957']
The debated topic is if spining a shaft yields any performance increase at all.
[/quote]

not much to debate...it doesnt.
[/quote]

Which is exactly why there is a debate.
There is a difference. Put a spined shaft into a frequency machine and get the number. Then flip it 90* ( not spined) and get the frequency. In many shafts you will see a huge difference. I noticed with Fujikura shafts that they have the most difference from hard side to soft side. Often 12-15 CPM's.

To the poster that I quoted.

Build 2 sets. 2 sets of exact same head weights, swing weights, loft and lie, same weight shafts, then spine a set, then completely non-spined side. See your dispersion change, and frequency of the shafts change.
[/quote]

So, if all shafts in a set of irons is aligned using the soft side against target, dispersion will be good, but if you install them all using the strong side against target line, dispersion will suffer? Why is that?
What happens if you are using soft side on some, and the strong side on others to make them fit into a flex slope as a set?

DO NOT SEND PMs WITH CLUB TECH QUESTIONS - USE THE PUBLIC FORUM.

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[quote name='CarloGolfer' timestamp='1298321690' post='2998119']
here's a video of a guy discussing the concept

[media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqlRIiz_OLE[/media]

the concept, by the way, is still debated as being useful in any way
[/quote]




Its a English guy who retired to Thailand.sells also groove sharpeners on Ebay etc

Know him well

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If you are using a tool like this to find a "spine", be sure you're aware of residual bend and a host of other factors before giving the "spine" it finds any real worth. If a shaft with ZERO Spine was put into a device such as this that had a residual bend that even the eye could not freely spot, this "DIY" Finder, will identify that residual bend that is in the shaft as a spine. Is it a spine? no.

SLDR 460 8.5° / TEE XCG6 16.5°
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Cally Jaws CC SW 55° / LW 60°
Arm Lock Ping Cushin / Salty Grip.
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  • 5 years later...

I wouldn't bother. Bearing based spine finders have pretty much been shown to be extremely unreliable at finding the shaft spines. If you really feel the need to spine your shafts (which is another can of worms I wont go into in this thread) - use FLO and butt frequency.

https://www.tutelman.com/golf/shafts/allAboutSpines2.php

 

although these are better starting points.

https://www.tutelman.com/golf/shafts/allAboutSpines.php

https://www.tutelman.com/golf/shafts/allAboutSpines1.php

 

 

 

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