Club Building Rookie with questions...

[Ghost_Orchid]

Ok, so I bought a set of clubs that came with R300 shafts and need to switch to stiff shafts, I currently play KBS Tour stiff (~93 mph 6i, DR SS ~115 with smooth transition). My club builder's priceis $30 per club to reshaft (+cost of new shafts, I have grips and ferrules), so 7X$30! = $210 + 8% tax, yikes.

 

So I'm thinking, how hard could it be to do it myself? I already have

 

Spine Finder (DIY, ~$5)

Ferrules (white with red rings, cell-parts)

Grips (white white red mc)

Epoxy

Solvent

 

Will need to get

 

Shaft extractor (sb ~$60 to make one, great plans/instructions on here)

Heat gun/torch (not sure how much, but I can get my hands on a heat gun for cheap)

Golfsmith Club Weight Scale (~$140)

Weights (not sure if I'll need)

 

So GolfWRX Clubmaking Community, am I getting over my head here? I do plan to read up on how to properly flex irons (lots of information from the club manufacturers and posts on here) and other tidbits I may need to pay attention to. Any tips you guys/gals can give me to help make my first iron build successful?

 

Thanks

G_O.

[tobybear]

Re-shafting a set of irons is something that isn't that difficult to do, its just difficult to do well.

I make my living as a fitter, club builder, and cant count how many times I've had people bring me equipment that they worked on them selves only to pay way more to have it done correctly. I've been building clubs since I was 13 which in now exactly half of my time on earth and even now I learn new things almost every day.

I would recommend starting on a single wedge before doing a set of irons, just to get the hang of it first.

To answer your original question you actually dont need a shaft puller unless you start working on graphite, since with steel you can apply heat and twist the head off. A good set of properly sized drill bits and brushes are a good start along with a belt sander to rough and clean the tips of the shafts.

if you are looking to just cut and glue you dont really need a swing weight scale but its a good thing to have when trying to achieve a certain swing weight along with a good amount of brass tip weights. I NEVER use lead weights unless absolutely necessary because of their inherent chemical danger and that if you ever pull the heads they can melt and cause a mess along with very toxic fumes.

Two sided tape will help when putting grips on too.

Cheers

[ForTourUseOnly]

Maybe a rookie mistake or maybe a typo but S300 shafts are stiff flex not regular.....just saying

[Nessism]

Reshafting a set of irons is no big deal. I say go for it. You Tube has tons of videos to watch to get your education started. Golf Works has tutorials too.

I say yes on the swingweight scale. ebay has them for cheap if you don't want to spend too much.

No on a shaft puller for irons. Not necessary. You just need a shaft clamp, bench vice, and torch. I have a heat gun and hate it. A flame is much easier to control and faster.

A good steel ruler will help you measure club length. Mandatory tool in my view.

Shaft weight tips are useful. You can adjust the weight by cutting them down. You can also just use a chunk of lead in the bottom of the hosel. Just use enough epoxy to bury it in the bottom of the hosel.

Good fun.

[Ghost_Orchid]

[quote name='MattTitleist' timestamp='1358222002' post='6230237']
Maybe a rookie mistake or maybe a typo but S300 shafts are stiff flex not regular.....just saying
[/quote]

Thanks, fixed. I thought it looked weird when I typed it.

[jharpergolf]

Just go for it, just start with a wedge or something to test. Or take an old iron pull it off clean it up and then epoxy back on just for experience

[Socrates]

Wait a minute here.... You've got 1336 posts and a joined in 2007 and you just going to attempt your first club build?? Location:Upstate NY. You weren't just doing a 5 year stretch in Sing Sing were you?

[highergr0und]

Use a torch, no shaft puller needed, but WEAR THICK GLOVES. Don't want a nasty burn when you grab a hot head.

You also might want a drill and a thin brush to clean leftover epoxy out of the hosels after you pull the shafts.

I've got the $50 (or so) swingweight scale from golfworks and have no issues with it. It's accurate measured against nicer ones. And get a 48" metal ruler from lowes or HD.

Now here's the deal..... Do you have a club you can measure against that's the right specs? With the ruler, you won't be technically measuring correctly unless you build a little 60* jig. HOWEVER, if you establish a baseline with a single club that's already built, you should have no issues measuring to get the new lengths correct. Or if you know the R300s play the right length or a little short/long, you can easily get the new lengths correct.

Swingweights are pretty easy. Dry fit, tip weight if needed, and go.

[thomaslv40]

I have started my first rebuild too...and I got all my stuff from Golfworks today...you can get a swing weight scale for $50 vs the $140 you paid from golfsmith

[Shaank0]

Its a pretty simple process, and in many ways rewarding. I think the biggest thing is the swing weight scale and know how to calculate how to get it where you want it to be if you have to. Other than that the hardest thing I have trouble with is flushing the ferrules.

[Arnie]

" I'm thinking, how hard could it be to do it myself? I already have

Spine Finder (DIY, ~$5)
Ferrules (white with red rings, cell-parts)
Grips (white white red mc)
Epoxy
Solvent

Will need to get

Shaft extractor (sb ~$60 to make one, great plans/instructions on here)[color=#FF0000] I am selling a kit to build a hydraulic shaft extractor $125 including shipping) ALL parts included! Not needed for steel shafts but nice.[/color]
Heat gun/torch (not sure how much, but I can get my hands on a heat gun for cheap)[color=#FF0000] A torch is much better cost about $16 plus cost of fuel ($3)[/color]
Golfsmith Club Weight Scale (~$140) If[color=#FF0000] you have a gram scale accurate to 1/10 gram you don't need to purchase a swingweight scale![/color]
Weights (not sure if I'll need)

[color=#FF0000][b]This is not a difficult project ![/b][/color]

[Ghost_Orchid]

Thanks for all the responses Gents, this is why I love this site. I have an old set of irons to practice on. I'll post pics of the finished product.

[secretmidam]

bravo for getting into club building- addicting!


Get as much Mitchell equipment as you can. Will be more durable over time. Best in the biz.

Love the screen name- two of my new favorite bands- Ghost from Sweden, Orchid from San Francisco!

[Arnie]

Location:Upstate NY. You weren't just doing a 5 year stretch in Sing Sing were you?


Only if Winnipeg is just outside of Toronto!
OOPS Winnipeg is closer to Acton. Right?

[Ghost_Orchid]

Ok, so I've started. Pulled couple shafts, ruined the ferrule on the first one, but did much better with the 2nd and 3rd.

What is this red thing? Is it just a shaft plug or weight of some sort? Leave them in or take them out? I do plan to sell the R300s to recoup some of the cost the the PXIs.
Thanks.

[attachment=1501441:CIMG1161.JPG]

[Par-A-Medic]

Placeholder

[tweaky]

it's a panic button!!! jk
just a plastic plug for minor swingweighting or to prevent epoxy from going up the shaft. take it out any way you can- drill, heat and pull with pliers, whatever. don't waste yer time trying to save ferrules either. give 'em a quick shot of heat to soften them and cut 'em off with a boxcutter knife. cut from the shaft end of the ferrule toward the head with the blade almost flat against the shaft. the top of the hosel will stop the blade from going further, a quick twist to one side and the ferrule should break free.

[Drewmun]

Great tip. I've spent way too much time trying to save stupid ferrules. [quote name='tweaky' timestamp='1358996090' post='6286363']
it's a panic button!!! jk
just a plastic plug for minor swingweighting or to prevent epoxy from going up the shaft. take it out any way you can- drill, heat and pull with pliers, whatever. don't waste yer time trying to save ferrules either. give 'em a quick shot of heat to soften them and cut 'em off with a boxcutter knife. cut from the shaft end of the ferrule toward the head with the blade almost flat against the shaft. the top of the hosel will stop the blade from going further, a quick twist to one side and the ferrule should break free.
[/quote]

[Ghost_Orchid]

Thanks for the reply guys. New shafts and swingweight scale gets here on Friday, gonna start build this weekend. Exciting times for me, can't wait.

[Ghost_Orchid]

Yet another question...a friend of mine suggested using 150 micron glass beads as an epoxy filler for extra strength. Do you guys think this is necessary? I'm gonna be using GolfWorks Maximum Strength Quick Set Epoxy (Lap Shear Strength 2,900 psi).

Thanks.

[Nessism]

Filler beads reduce strength, not increase it.

GolfWorks Maximum strength is stronger than the quick set. I'd use that if you want strength.

[Twohey]

[quote name='Ghost_Orchid' timestamp='1359068985' post='6292031']
Yet another question...a friend of mine suggested using 150 micron glass beads as an epoxy filler for extra strength. Do you guys think this is necessary? I'm gonna be using GolfWorks Maximum Strength Quick Set Epoxy (Lap Shear Strength 2,900 psi).

Thanks.
[/quote]

Glass beads help center the shaft in the hosel, they're not for extra strenghth. I use it for all my personal builds with no problem.

[Ghost_Orchid]

Quick Update...

[attachment=1546945:CIMG1627.JPG]

My 1st Club Building experience was fun and exciting, a little ghetto too. Using screws, washers and dowels (hollowed) for swingweights. I bought a swingweight scale and weighted all clubs to my preference. I used Red White MCCs and Red White ferrules from Cell Parts. Clubs looked beautiful. I was able to use them once indoors and last week I had a weeklong trip to Orlando.

Played Eagle Creek, Panther Lakes and Crooked Cat, Osprey Ridge, Hawks Landing and El Campeon...all beautiful courses. Arrived on Sunday and had a range session then played Eagle Creek on Monday. Monday evening hit the range at Shingle Creek, took a nice divot with PW and head went flying downrange (WTF!). Luckily there was only 1 other person at the range, so I went and retrieved my head in shame. Made it through the week without any incidents and without my PW. Got home on Sat and checked the other heads, 8i and 4i are also loose. Luckily I didn't lose any in water hazards.

I did used the Quick Set epoxy from Golfworks (which Nessism did warn about) so this probably contributed to my issues. I also realized that when I sanded the tips, the sandpaper left a white residue which at the time I thought were scuff marks. When the PW head flew off, the tip was really smooth, so I will need to do a better job of sanding.

I've already ordered the Maximum strength epoxy, some glass beads and additional white red ferrules to redo my build. I will have to use air to remove the current grips so I can reuse them. Technically this will be my 2nd build, so hopefully I will use the knowledge gained from the first build so my heads won't go flying (if they do, hopefully it won't be into a water hazard).

On a more positive note, I did pick up a full club length with the new clubs. Dang these things give a high ball flight. I used the Srixon XV, B330-S and Penta TP5, didn't have any issue with the wind or ballooning. The XV will be my ball for 2013!

PS. Thanks for everyone's help.

[Socrates]

Ghost, you likely are making a rookie mistake. It sounds like you aren't prepping either the shaft or the inside of the hosel (or both) properly. You need to get down to bare clean metal on both. When you said the PW shaft was smooth, I bet that it was smooth and shiny which means that the epoxy bonded to the shaft only and not the hosel wall as welll. Remember, you need to remove all old epoxy when you are reshafting anything since the old epoxy has been compromised by heat. It might look solid, but it is anything but solid. Stronger epoxy won't help a bit if the prep is incomplete.

[Ghost_Orchid]

[quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1361332408' post='6462819']
Ghost, you likely are making a rookie mistake. It sounds like you aren't prepping either the shaft or the inside of the hosel (or both) properly. You need to get down to bare clean metal on both. When you said the PW shaft was smooth, I bet that it was smooth and shiny which means that the epoxy bonded to the shaft only and not the hosel wall as welll. Remember, you need to remove all old epoxy when you are reshafting anything since the old epoxy has been compromised by heat. It might look solid, but it is anything but solid. Stronger epoxy won't help a bit if the prep is incomplete.
[/quote]

Most likely poor shaft prep. When I removed the old shafts, I thoroughly cleaned the inside of the hosel with wire brush and pick (when it was still pretty warm). The inside of the hosel is grooved (concentric rings), and I did make sure all old epoxy was removed. The PW hosel (that failed) was evenly coated across all the concentric rings. I'll do some more investigations when I take the other clubs apart. I strongly suspect poor shaft prep. I'll do a bunch more research before I start again. We still have a couple months before spring is here.

[Jontee]

Rat tail file, Dremel, sandpaper and either clean out with a cloth and or blow out with high pressure air.
My question for you, are the shafts tapered .355 tips and your putting them into parallel bores .370 ?
If so then it makes sense that the heads are coming off, easily ! If this is the case, then you will have to shim them for best results.

[bunkeru2k]

Shaft prep is almost a guaranteed culprit. It is best to have a belt sander...even a harbor freight cheapie with 80 grit to get the steel tips prepped. I even run some serious course nasty paper around the tips once or twice for extra roughness.

[tnord]

i had some 220 sandpaper around and used that on the tips for my build. it held together for a range session just fine, but i worry about it so i'm going to hit them all with 100 real quick for added strength. i didn't feel like the epoxy was properly holding the shaft after spinning the shaft around in the head and removing to inspect.

[Socrates]

[quote name='bunkeru2k' timestamp='1361369857' post='6464341']
Shaft prep is almost a guaranteed culprit. It is best to have a belt sander...even a harbor freight cheapie with 80 grit to get the steel tips prepped. I even run some serious course nasty paper around the tips once or twice for extra roughness.
[/quote]
Common misconception about extra roughness. You actually get a better and stronger bond when the surface is clean and abraded with a finer sandpaper or file. Epoxy is bonding at a molecular level so finer is better which is why shear strength is so important. While epoxy will comfortable fill gaps and there is some mechanical help from resistance when there is a physical locking force, the main strength is from the bond itself.

Can't stress enough: Clean surfaces and proper epoxy mixing and application.