Building up a grip

[mvhoffman]

I need assistance. Need some tips on building up the bottom hand(right for me) of the grip. I don't hook or slice, I can draw or fade by choice I just over grip with my right hand. This is solely for comfort level.

 

Do you guys/girls when building up the grip taper it, like a 1inch piece followed by a two, and so on or do you just put more tape under the bottom half?

[Socrates]

I'm sure both ways are done. It depends on how much you are going to build up the bottom hand. Obviously, if you are only building it up one wrap, you have to do it for the full length of your hand. Larger, I would taper it with multiple layers. Use a digital caliper to get exact and repeatable measurements.

[Froth]

I find the most repeatable way to increase right hand grip size is to measure a set distance from the butt end of the shaft. So, If you plan to taper with multiple layers you could do one layer 5" down from the end then another 5.5" down, etc etc. Experimenting with what works for you and feels the best will take a bit of time, but can be very worth it. Note that how much you need to build up also depends on the shaft you're using, some shafts start to taper under the grip, some do not. My Current shafts are .600 the entire length of the grip area and the steps start after, however my old TT Dynamics had two entire steps under the grip.

[Howard_Jones]

Maybe this method of build up is what you look for?
- I use it on wedges to add diameter to the lower hand, who makes it easier to hit a "follow trough", where you DONT rotate your hands trough the ball.

The "standard" im using here is 4 layers total build up,
- The Build up tape area is between the White lines on the grip, a total of 10 Inch
Ive chosen to use "steps of tape" each is 2.25 long

Start by adding a mark 1 inch down from the but.
- First layer starts at this mark and go down against the head side. - This layer is 4 x 2.25 = 9 inch
- Second layer start from the head side and up, - This layer is 3 x 2.25 = 6.75 inch
- Third layer starts from the head side and up. - This layer is 2 x 2.25 = 4.5 inch
- Forth layer starts from the head side and up - This layer is 1 x 2.25 = 2.25

[attachment=1891613:Asymm build up.jpg]

Here im trying to show what fingers who would be influenced
- On the upper hand, its the 2 upper part of the build up (1 and 2 layers extra)
- On the lower hand, its part 2 and 3 ( 2 and 3 layers extra)
- The very bottom with 4 layers, only comes to play when you take a lower grip on the club.
Its done this way for WEDGES, but you might use it on a iron to.

[attachment=1891611:Asymm build up 2.jpg]

If you need Build up for a larger diameter to start with, you can start by the number of build up as you normally use, and add the asymmetric build up on top. Dont forget grip tape at last.
If you need a LARGE build up, use Grip tape for spiral pattern, typical Ping grip tape.

[Manz60]

Thanks Howard Jones...that was an excellent instructional post.

M60

[mvhoffman]

Thanks Howard. Great instruction. Now for one more question... Will this help me from squeezing too much with the right hand causing me to close the clubface?

[Manz60]

[quote name='mvhoffman' timestamp='1380408922' post='7925155']
Thanks Howard. Great instruction. Now for one more question... Will this help me from squeezing too much with the right hand causing me to close the clubface?
[/quote]

Hopefully Howard will come back on but if not I would say if the larger bottom diameter is comfortable for you, the tendency will be not to squeeze...but if its not comfortable, you'll probably feel you don't have control of the club and then start to squeeze.

Fitting grip size is all about comfort...allowing your wrists and forearms to relax, causing a smooth takeaway and repeatable swing for a full, [u]square[/u] release into impact.

(Most grips are mfg. with taper, allowing light grip pressure and the feeling you will not let go of the club.)

Hope this helps
M60

[Redhill]

Not sure about the question but when I want to build up a grip I use duct tape.

I run it in strips running the length of the grip, with each additional layer backing off the front of the grip area by about 1/4". With 4 strips the last one would be 1" shorter than the first. Never built up a grip under just one hand but should be easy to do. Just follow the photos and I guess you could wrap of stripe it.

good luck.

[savoyspecial13]

Howard:
Can I ask how much tape would affect swing weight? Thx

[Socrates]

[quote name='savoyspecial13' timestamp='1380421264' post='7925869']
Howard:
Can I ask how much tape would affect swing weight? Thx
[/quote]
Approx 4 grams of weight in the butt is about 1 SW point. 10" of tape is approx 2 grams. So if you did one like HJ showed. it might amount to about 1 SW depending on your tapes mil thickness, weight and how long the club was. YMMV.

[Jon54]

I used to build up the area under my right hand and then picked up Hogan's 5 lesson book. The entire 1st chapter is about the grip. I over griped with my right hand forever but I know grip the club tightest with the last 3 fingers on my left hand. I pinch my right index finger and right thumb tightly and now hit the ball much more crisply. I hope this makes since.

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1380426309' post='7926207']
[quote name='savoyspecial13' timestamp='1380421264' post='7925869']
Howard:
Can I ask how much tape would affect swing weight? Thx
[/quote]
Approx 4 grams of weight in the butt is about 1 SW point. 10" of tape is approx 2 grams. So if you did one like HJ showed. it might amount to about 1 SW depending on your tapes mil thickness, weight and how long the club was. YMMV.
[/quote]

Tape weight is 4.4 grams and the influence om SW READING is 2/3 SW point the way im doing it, but this is COUNTERWEIGHT, it does nothing to actual swing weight.

1 Layer of Golf build up tape in full lenght is 10 inch long and weight is 2.0 Grams

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='mvhoffman' timestamp='1380408922' post='7925155']
Thanks Howard. Great instruction. Now for one more question... Will this help me from squeezing too much with the right hand causing me to close the clubface?
[/quote]

YES, that what it does, a larger diameter makes your hands more relaxed, so if "squeezing" is your problem, try this on 1 club, but you might want to use another "pattern" or more diameter than im using here. The build up im showing is ment for a player with STANDARD grip size, so any over size needs comes on top of that.

For the sake of compare:
Standard 60 core grip on 600 shaft butt = Standard
4 Layers of build up = MID size
8 Layers of Build up = JUMBO size

In my examle we end up with 2-3 layers under the right hand, and 4 when taking a lower grip, so its far from the extreme

[savoyspecial13]

[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1380448721' post='7926719']
[quote name='Socrates' timestamp='1380426309' post='7926207']
[quote name='savoyspecial13' timestamp='1380421264' post='7925869']
Howard:
Can I ask how much tape would affect swing weight? Thx
[/quote]
Approx 4 grams of weight in the butt is about 1 SW point. 10" of tape is approx 2 grams. So if you did one like HJ showed. it might amount to about 1 SW depending on your tapes mil thickness, weight and how long the club was. YMMV.
[/quote]

Tape weight is 4.4 grams and the influence om SW READING is 2/3 SW point the way im doing it, but this is COUNTERWEIGHT, it does nothing to actual swing weight.

1 Layer of Golf build up tape in full lenght is 10 inch long and weight is 2.0 Grams
[/quote]
You lost me on counterweight has nothing to do with swingweight. ?

[Howard_Jones]

Swing weight influence on flex, Counterweight does not.
- Going down 1 SW point is raising flex by 1 CPM - that does not happen if its a Counterweight change, Only when its TRUE SW change. (change in head weight / shaft weight / balance point of the shaft - Grips DONT influence on TRUE SW)

Adding weight grip side on a iron or wedge, mostly influence on total weight, not much else.

To measure TRUE SW value, you can measure without grips and sub 9 SW point or use a split grip of 50 grams
- What ever grip you might use in play, higher or lower weight than 50 grams, is manipulating with Counterweight NOT Swing weight. A Club like TM with a Winn Lite grip does NOT have a TRUE SW value of D4, i call that PLAY SW value, or what the scale say with that grip, but it should never be treated like SW, because its not, even if you can feel a difference to heft.

[savoyspecial13]

[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1380505918' post='7929887']
Swing weight influence on flex, Counterweight does not.
- Going down 1 SW point is raising flex by 1 CPM - that does not happen if its a Counterweight change, Only when its TRUE SW change. (change in head weight / shaft weight / balance point of the shaft - Grips DONT influence on TRUE SW)

Adding weight grip side on a iron or wedge, mostly influence on total weight, not much else.

To measure TRUE SW value, you can measure without grips and sub 9 SW point or use a split grip of 50 grams
- What ever grip you might use in play, higher or lower weight than 50 grams, is manipulating with Counterweight NOT Swing weight. A Club like TM with a Winn Lite grip does NOT have a TRUE SW value of D4, i call that PLAY SW value, or what the scale say with that grip, but it should never be treated like SW, because its not, even if you can feel a difference to heft.
[/quote]
I see! So heres a question: Then how would you suggest getting a set of irons to d3-4 which are at d9 currently? (x100's, mp68s, +1/2", 53g grip)

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='savoyspecial13' timestamp='1380524094' post='7930629']
[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1380505918' post='7929887']
Swing weight influence on flex, Counterweight does not.
- Going down 1 SW point is raising flex by 1 CPM - that does not happen if its a Counterweight change, Only when its TRUE SW change. (change in head weight / shaft weight / balance point of the shaft - Grips DONT influence on TRUE SW)

Adding weight grip side on a iron or wedge, mostly influence on total weight, not much else.

To measure TRUE SW value, you can measure without grips and sub 9 SW point or use a split grip of 50 grams
- What ever grip you might use in play, higher or lower weight than 50 grams, is manipulating with Counterweight NOT Swing weight. A Club like TM with a Winn Lite grip does NOT have a TRUE SW value of D4, i call that PLAY SW value, or what the scale say with that grip, but it should never be treated like SW, because its not, even if you can feel a difference to heft.
[/quote]
I see! So heres a question: Then how would you suggest getting a set of irons to d3-4 which are at d9 currently? (x100's, mp68s, +1/2", 53g grip)
[/quote]

Removing head weight is the only real option.
- Depending on head, the hosel might be drilled up with a hole deeper, but in a smaller diameter than the shaft (no change of insertion. Some heads already got a "weight port" below the shaft like we make here to reduce weight. This is the only way to remove weight "invisible". On RAW heads in Black Oxide, grinding is a good option, but only skilled folks should do this kind of jobs. Stripping a head for chrome plating also removes some head weight (vary a lot).

A set of heads ive shown in another post in here about removing stamping from the head, lost 26 grams from chrome strip and a complete re-grind of sole and head shape. If hosel drilling was included, more than 30 grams total could be done.

On a Wedge you can count 2.35 grams as 1 SW point so we talk 6 x 2.35 = 14 grams down
On a iron you can count average 2.0 grams as 1 SW point so we talk 6 x 2 = 12 grams down

This is why some OEM offers B - Weight heads (lighter than those for standard length - often minus 10 grams like a set of Callaway X-Tour ive got dusting. They was made plus 1" from Callaway so they got this heads)
1 inch equals to 6 SW point - the same as you want as SW drop.

EDIT_ It sounds like your set if made SW plus by using tip weights, there is no reason for that SW value with the specs you tell here, using standard weighted heads.

[savoyspecial13]

[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1380564557' post='7932717']
[quote name='savoyspecial13' timestamp='1380524094' post='7930629']
[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1380505918' post='7929887']
Swing weight influence on flex, Counterweight does not.
- Going down 1 SW point is raising flex by 1 CPM - that does not happen if its a Counterweight change, Only when its TRUE SW change. (change in head weight / shaft weight / balance point of the shaft - Grips DONT influence on TRUE SW)

Adding weight grip side on a iron or wedge, mostly influence on total weight, not much else.

To measure TRUE SW value, you can measure without grips and sub 9 SW point or use a split grip of 50 grams
- What ever grip you might use in play, higher or lower weight than 50 grams, is manipulating with Counterweight NOT Swing weight. A Club like TM with a Winn Lite grip does NOT have a TRUE SW value of D4, i call that PLAY SW value, or what the scale say with that grip, but it should never be treated like SW, because its not, even if you can feel a difference to heft.
[/quote]
I see! So heres a question: Then how would you suggest getting a set of irons to d3-4 which are at d9 currently? (x100's, mp68s, +1/2", 53g grip)
[/quote]

Removing head weight is the only real option.
- Depending on head, the hosel might be drilled up with a hole deeper, but in a smaller diameter than the shaft (no change of insertion. Some heads already got a "weight port" below the shaft like we make here to reduce weight. This is the only way to remove weight "invisible". On RAW heads in Black Oxide, grinding is a good option, but only skilled folks should do this kind of jobs. Stripping a head for chrome plating also removes some head weight (vary a lot).

A set of heads ive shown in another post in here about removing stamping from the head, lost 26 grams from chrome strip and a complete re-grind of sole and head shape. If hosel drilling was included, more than 30 grams total could be done.

On a Wedge you can count 2.35 grams as 1 SW point so we talk 6 x 2.35 = 14 grams down
On a iron you can count average 2.0 grams as 1 SW point so we talk 6 x 2 = 12 grams down

This is why some OEM offers B - Weight heads (lighter than those for standard length - often minus 10 grams like a set of Callaway X-Tour ive got dusting. They was made plus 1" from Callaway so they got this heads)
1 inch equals to 6 SW point - the same as you want as SW drop.

EDIT_ It sounds like your set if made SW plus by using tip weights, there is no reason for that SW value with the specs you tell here, using standard weighted heads.
[/quote]
Thanks so much for your response Hj. Dang, that was the first thing I checked for; tip weights. There were none. The problem occurred after new grips were put on. They were the same grips as before also. Im thinking faulty/inaccurate sw scale, but I CAN feel the sw change also. Or maybe the grips for some reason are not 53g. They were d4 previously. Now d9.

[95124hacker]

[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1380262563' post='7918195']
Maybe this method of build up is what you look for?
- I use it on wedges to add diameter to the lower hand, who makes it easier to hit a "follow trough", where you DONT rotate your hands trough the ball.

The "standard" im using here is 4 layers total build up,
- The Build up tape area is between the White lines on the grip, a total of 10 Inch
Ive chosen to use "steps of tape" each is 2.25 long

Start by adding a mark 1 inch down from the but.
- First layer starts at this mark and go down against the head side. - This layer is 4 x 2.25 = 9 inch
- Second layer start from the head side and up, - This layer is 3 x 2.25 = 6.75 inch
- Third layer starts from the head side and up. - This layer is 2 x 2.25 = 4.5 inch
- Forth layer starts from the head side and up - This layer is 1 x 2.25 = 2.25

[attachment=1891613:Asymm build up.jpg]

Here im trying to show what fingers who would be influenced
- On the upper hand, its the 2 upper part of the build up (1 and 2 layers extra)
- On the lower hand, its part 2 and 3 ( 2 and 3 layers extra)
- The very bottom with 4 layers, only comes to play when you take a lower grip on the club.
Its done this way for WEDGES, but you might use it on a iron to.

[attachment=1891611:Asymm build up 2.jpg]

If you need Build up for a larger diameter to start with, you can start by the number of build up as you normally use, and add the asymmetric build up on top. Dont forget grip tape at last.
If you need a LARGE build up, use Grip tape for spiral pattern, typical Ping grip tape.
[/quote]

Howard: this looks like a method I want to try. I just received a 45.75" driver with a Tour AD DI-7 and instead of cutting it down to 44.25" (my normal playing length), I want to first try to choke down 1.5" but remove the taper at the same time. This is because I want to preserve the original length in case I need to re-sell. I want to install a No 1 "50" grip which has a .560 core. If I build up with 5 layers of tape, won't that make it Jumbo? What is recommended here? 3 or 4 layers instead of 5?

[95124hacker]

Should I use painters tape instead of double-sided for the bottom layers?

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='95124hacker' timestamp='1427322646' post='11215849']
[quote name='Howard Jones' timestamp='1380262563' post='7918195']
Maybe this method of build up is what you look for?
- I use it on wedges to add diameter to the lower hand, who makes it easier to hit a "follow trough", where you DONT rotate your hands trough the ball.

The "standard" im using here is 4 layers total build up,
- The Build up tape area is between the White lines on the grip, a total of 10 Inch
Ive chosen to use "steps of tape" each is 2.25 long

Start by adding a mark 1 inch down from the but.
- First layer starts at this mark and go down against the head side. - This layer is 4 x 2.25 = 9 inch
- Second layer start from the head side and up, - This layer is 3 x 2.25 = 6.75 inch
- Third layer starts from the head side and up. - This layer is 2 x 2.25 = 4.5 inch
- Forth layer starts from the head side and up - This layer is 1 x 2.25 = 2.25

[attachment=1891613:Asymm build up.jpg]

Here im trying to show what fingers who would be influenced
- On the upper hand, its the 2 upper part of the build up (1 and 2 layers extra)
- On the lower hand, its part 2 and 3 ( 2 and 3 layers extra)
- The very bottom with 4 layers, only comes to play when you take a lower grip on the club.
Its done this way for WEDGES, but you might use it on a iron to.

[attachment=1891611:Asymm build up 2.jpg]

If you need Build up for a larger diameter to start with, you can start by the number of build up as you normally use, and add the asymmetric build up on top. Dont forget grip tape at last.
If you need a LARGE build up, use Grip tape for spiral pattern, typical Ping grip tape.
[/quote]

Howard: this looks like a method I want to try. I just received a 45.75" driver with a Tour AD DI-7 and instead of cutting it down to 44.25" (my normal playing length), I want to first try to choke down 1.5" but remove the taper at the same time. This is because I want to preserve the original length in case I need to re-sell. I want to install a No 1 "50" grip which has a .560 core. If I build up with 5 layers of tape, won't that make it Jumbo? What is recommended here? 3 or 4 layers instead of 5?
[/quote]

If you use Build-up tape for Golf clubs, starting from a 60 Core grip on a .600 butt
- 4 Layers = MID size
- 8 Layers = Jumbo

1 Layer of Bu-tape ads 0015 to the grips diameter
- Standard = 0.900
- 1 layers = 0.915
- 2 layers = 0.930
- 3 layers = 0.945
- 4 layers = 0.960 - MID size
- 5 layers = 0.975
- 6 layers = 0.990
- 7 layers = 1.005
- 8 layers = 1.020 - Jumbo

Grip size OD is measured 2 inch below the butt of the grip, but since the taper of the grip vary from model to model, this is the only spot they will be this diameter. In general lamkin has less taper than Golf pride, so its a bit larger diameter for the lower hand using Lamkin grips.

if you use a .58 Core grip on a .0600 butt it adds 0.020 or just a bit more than 1 layer of BU tape.
Correct grip sizing starts by measuring BUTT of the shaft, who could be 0.580 (DG regular flex, ladies), so the BUTT of the shaft, or at the actual point of the butt might vary quite a bit, from 0.580 up to 0.630 (large butt diameter 0.620 is typical TM made for shafts where they use ultra light grips)

Thats why we CANT say that this player should use "2 layers", since butt size on shafts in his bag might vary, so we MUST start with shaft butt, and do the math for how many layers needed on THIS butt to get to the diameter on the play ready club we wants.

PS! Grip tape might also be used, and standard grip tape add 0.010 for each layer, but 1 layer grip tape is included in my "chart" for where we end using BU-tape. Use what ever tape you want for BU, and use a caliper to measure what changes you make on the shaft butt by one layer, and just do the math for how many layers needed to build up the butt to what it should be before you add the actual grip of choice.

[95124hacker]

Thanks Howard. I was hoping it wouldn't be that scientific, but I understand all the complexities of getting it right. I could do trial & error (too bad I don't have a compressor to install using air), or spend the extra time to do it right. Too bad the No 1 grips are $12-$16 each.

[Howard_Jones]

[quote name='95124hacker' timestamp='1427392805' post='11221483']
Thanks Howard. I was hoping it wouldn't be that scientific, but I understand all the complexities of getting it right. I could do trial & error (too bad I don't have a compressor to install using air), or spend the extra time to do it right. Too bad the No 1 grips are $12-$16 each.
[/quote]

haha if you use New Decade, DONT use air, im using air on demo clubs because i want grip size to be right during a fitting, so i always build up grips for the player, but with New Decades NOT...ive waisted way to many of them since the front is soft, and the butt is hard, so its way to easy to balloon them unless you use some kind of solvent (water can be used), but i dont have time to wait for drying and water destroy BU tape, and it must go fast when im working, and that means i would have to use solvent or just let the player use another grip, and then we can use a new decade for the final test. New Decades is not easy when using air, so dont try it unless you need to.

[hackerboy]

Howard. Really appreciate your expertise and thorough explanations on this topic and many other posts I've read. Thanks much.

[BreakingPar]

Thanks so much Howard! I know this is an old thread, but I was wanting to do this for my wedges for a winter project, and the search function came through. Always appreciate your timeless posts and advice Howard, brilliant stuff!

[TheLetterSee]

Maybe this method of build up is what you look for?

- I use it on wedges to add diameter to the lower hand, who makes it easier to hit a "follow trough", where you DONT rotate your hands trough the ball.

 

The "standard" im using here is 4 layers total build up,

- The Build up tape area is between the White lines on the grip, a total of 10 Inch

Ive chosen to use "steps of tape" each is 2.25 long

 

Start by adding a mark 1 inch down from the but.

- First layer starts at this mark and go down against the head side. - This layer is 4 x 2.25 = 9 inch

- Second layer start from the head side and up, - This layer is 3 x 2.25 = 6.75 inch

- Third layer starts from the head side and up. - This layer is 2 x 2.25 = 4.5 inch

- Forth layer starts from the head side and up - This layer is 1 x 2.25 = 2.25

 

Here im trying to show what fingers who would be influenced

- On the upper hand, its the 2 upper part of the build up (1 and 2 layers extra)

- On the lower hand, its part 2 and 3 ( 2 and 3 layers extra)

- The very bottom with 4 layers, only comes to play when you take a lower grip on the club.

Its done this way for WEDGES, but you might use it on a iron to.

 

If you need Build up for a larger diameter to start with, you can start by the number of build up as you normally use, and add the asymmetric build up on top. Dont forget grip tape at last.

If you need a LARGE build up, use Grip tape for spiral pattern, typical Ping grip tape.

 

Hey Howard I have a quick question regarding this. I have been doing this method for a bit using .600 grips on .600 irons building up standard to midsize. I would do this with an additional 4 wraps. I have made the decision to go to a Jumbo grip but I would prefer if it were slightly smaller than Jumbo. The grips I have are Lamkin UTx midsize which are .580 so would I be right in saying that 3 wraps plus this buildup would be a "traditional" jumbo without taper? If so, for me to get slight less than jumbo would you suggest adding 2 wraps instead?

[dunn]

I used to do it in 4,6,8 inch , and 1 full.........now I just run midsize, my right hand getgets more active if it has something to grip ( like lower hand built up)......the taper actually slows it down......and my right hand is always huge issue for me.....I have actually contemplated chopping it off during frustrated rounds where I can't stop and hook the piss out of ball........right hand is great for wedge play hitting multiple types of shots but for full shots it's my nemesis