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Grinding a wedge!!!!


joey3108

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  • 2 weeks later...

THX!

 

Here are some more w/ M grind combine w/ P grind on it.

 

The P grind is act like a second bounce, It kicks the club up...thus it will lift the ball up and drop it soft on the green, especially out of the bunker. The M grind will still allow you to lay the club open from a tight lie. This combination grinds will allows the players to be a bit more aggressive from almost any lie.

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THX!

 

Here are some more w/ M grind combine w/ P grind on it.

 

The P grind is act like a second bounce, It kicks the club up...thus it will lift the ball up and drop it soft on the green, especially out of the bunker. The M grind will still allow you to lay the club open from a tight lie. This combination grinds will allows the players to me a bit more agressive from almost any lie.

You got that from Solus wedges didn't you? :D

But honestly Joe, you are a machine!

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THX!

 

Here are some more w/ M grind combine w/ P grind on it.

 

The P grind is act like a second bounce, It kicks the club up...thus it will lift the ball up and drop it soft on the green, especially out of the bunker. The M grind will still allow you to lay the club open from a tight lie. This combination grinds will allows the players to me a bit more agressive from almost any lie.

You got that from Solus wedges didn't you? :D

But honestly Joe, you are a machine!

Well! Solus got it from Titleist and who knows where Titleist got it from and so on.

 

All i know is from a guy who likes their worn out wedge but asking for a new groves not sole shape, so that is where the story came from long long time ago. Of course a little birdy told me that! :beach:

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Not trying to step in on the discussion, but felt I can add a few things.

 

when grinding you will find that you need a softer surface than a hard grinding wheel, becuase the wheel is hard and can only take off in a limited area of the head, but with a belt sander (some do have additional pulleys) to give that extra effect like a rubber wheel you can remove more material faster. But Joe may have solved the problem by going to a drill.

 

It's really easy, just find some old heads and grind away and you'll really pic up some knowledge fast.

 

I use a 1x42 and use a finishing belt which is the cheapest and best way I have found for getting a decent satin finish.

 

Also you can reshape the toes on some clubs, which to me is a must and why I started grinding myself, but the BV are the absolute best with their teardrop shape.

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Hey all-

Golfworks does sell a cool attachment for a grinder but for a littel less someone can use this...

 

Expander Wheel

 

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product...m_mmc=undefined

 

this may be good for alot less

 

I am not knocking it as I have not tried it, but the RPM may be a limiting factor. The multitool attachments can be had for a lot less than GW/GS sell them for. This is very good:

 

Multitool

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  • 2 months later...

[quote name='cdnputter' post='815840' date='Dec 7 2007, 12:05 PM']Joe,

Thanks for sharing your insight and experience, very very helpful.

I'm curious though, in the pics you were applying a M grind? For a P grind do you use a different wheel in your drill? Or just change the angle of the clubhead and use the edge of the wheel?

Cheers![/quote]
YES on the edge of the wheel for Initial cut to a certain size, depth and lenght that i will end up with later.

Drum sander is the wheel i used to shape it like an elongated tear drop. The angle of the tear drop are critical on the club reaction when hit. Lots of checking and testing on my front lawn. LOL!

I'm still trying to improve and finding a way to make them easier and more consistent without sacrificing finish quality, in fact trying to improve too if possible. Those are basically my charracter in everything i do in live, it's about improving them. :russian_roulette:

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Those are probably 15 years ago when i don't have all the right machine yet to invest. I'm even thinking of going to the next level investing a better machine. I found a few that are just amazing but still requires hand skill and good eyes. I really have to be honest, Artistic sense and technicallity on how to play it are very big in this wedge grinding or shaping IMO. Just grinding only is easy but grinds that works are not IMO!

Joe

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Joe

 

My Cleveland 588 leading edge is somewhat rounded while my Hogan is pretty much a straight line is there any grinding that will get the Hogan closer to a rounded look. I have always liked an open look on all my clubs and the only way to achieve that now is addressing the ball with the heel off the ground but it corrects on the way down resulting in a pull. Plus the bounce is only 6 degrees so it would be nice to have the M grind to be able to play different shots. Let me know what you think when you can. I also sent you a less detailed e-mail. Thanks for your time and have a great day.

 

Matt Bacon

TaylorMade M4 9.5 Project X HZRDUS Black 75 6.5
TaylorMade M2 2016 HL Project X HZRDUS Black 65 6.5
TaylorMade GAPR Lo 19 Project X HZRDUS Black 85 6.5
Bridgestone J15 DPF 4 Iron DGS300 Pro
Wilson C300 Forged 5-PW X100
Cleveland CBX 54 & 58 S400
Odyssey Works Tank Cruiser #7 38"

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Joe

 

My Cleveland 588 leading edge is somewhat rounded while my Hogan is pretty much a straight line is there any grinding that will get the Hogan closer to a rounded look. I have always liked an open look on all my clubs and the only way to achieve that now is addressing the ball with the heel off the ground but it corrects on the way down resulting in a pull. Plus the bounce is only 6 degrees so it would be nice to have the M grind to be able to play different shots. Let me know what you think when you can. I also sent you a less detailed e-mail. Thanks for your time and have a great day.

 

Matt Bacon

You can make the leading edge blunted or beveled and at the same time rise a bit of the bounce by grinding the front part of the bounce. However, you'll create a little off set look that way.
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  • 2 weeks later...

Joe,

 

Thanks for the pictures and information. That was great. Just a quick question. Do you measure the bounce before and after grinding? I know you weigh the head before and after, but what about the bounce? Is there a limit in terms of how much weight to remove for certain grinds, or is it all by look and feel?

 

I want to grind my own wedges and Im not one to take deep divots. I want a grind that will enable me to open up the club face without having my leading edge coming off the ground. Would the m grind suffice? Do you grind the trailing edge as well when doing an M grind?

 

What other grinds are out there (aside from M (same as C?) and P) and if you could explain a little about each one, that would be great!

 

Thanks!!!!

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Just saw the Chikara wedge, is there any way to get that 5 way cut sole on a OEM wedge?

TaylorMade M4 9.5 Project X HZRDUS Black 75 6.5
TaylorMade M2 2016 HL Project X HZRDUS Black 65 6.5
TaylorMade GAPR Lo 19 Project X HZRDUS Black 85 6.5
Bridgestone J15 DPF 4 Iron DGS300 Pro
Wilson C300 Forged 5-PW X100
Cleveland CBX 54 & 58 S400
Odyssey Works Tank Cruiser #7 38"

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Fanatic,

How precise you need them to be? 1* of bounce will not gonna feel that much different for average Joe Golfer. Of course I could measure them before and after, but i'm more of a feel grinder by looking how it lay on the ground to get the right look at set up possition and then measure it if I need to grind some more accordingly.

 

You might want to do some SEARCH for what grind for what type of play. I've posted quite a bit before. Or check on some of OEM site for they wedge grind explanation.

 

Mookie91,

There is always a way as long as you start with the right amount of bounce initially.

 

 

Chipinoneputt,

Every artists ( that is what i call them for master grinder :D ) are different and have their own way to manipulate their tools and how to use them. The right tools will make the job easier for sure.

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  • 1 month later...

Wow! That 60* Vokey looks great. What grind do you call that and what would you charge me to do my SW and LW?They are forged Sonartec's and Im afraid Ill ruin them but would like a little more versatility as far as manipulating the club head.Is there a finish or something you spray or dip in order to keep from rusting?Im not a big fan of the "raw" wedges except for the reduced glare.I kinda dig the satin or tour chrome look even though you still get some glare.

Thanks very much!

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