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Swing weight factors in relation to parts


joey3108

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So if I want to go to an oversize grip that weighs 77 grams compared to a standard of 52 grams I am going to have to add 10 grams to each head in order to maintain the same swing weight?

 

Only, to get the SW scale to read the same value. But that's not how the swing weight scale works with respect to managing the feel. Just change the grips and don't worry about how it changed the SW value reading. Don't add any weight and see how they feel before doing anything.

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So if I want to go to an oversize grip that weighs 77 grams compared to a standard of 52 grams I am going to have to add 10 grams to each head in order to maintain the same swing weight?

 

Only, to get the SW scale to read the same value. But that's not how the swing weight scale works with respect to managing the feel. Just change the grips and don't worry about how it changed the SW value reading. Don't add any weight and see how they feel before doing anything.

p

 

Ok thanks

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Does anyone know why ping swing weights there irons lighter then a lot of the other big companies do?

My uneducated and semi tongue in cheek guess is that's the way Karsen wanted it just like why did they offer dng s400 option instead of everyone else's s300. Being a pretty smart engineer I am sure he had his reasons.

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Stiffness has no direct impact on balance. If by 'more balanced' you mean a lighter swing weight, then what you really need is to do if find a way to remove some head weight.
i have done this with lead tape wrapped under the grip. Works extremely well and is barely noticeable. A pricey option is tourlock pro. They make a great counterbalance product for irons
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So. A 50g grip will add 10 SW points?? (C5 to D5)???
the only way a 50g grip will add weight is if you removed a heavier grip. Another words grip weight will REDUCE swing weight when installed on a shaft without one. You need to take the weight into account when you're building. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a SW machine while I was putting together my clubs so I ensured all my clubs were swinging the same weight. Also did my putter. It was all F'd after I cut it and put a SS on it
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So. A 50g grip will add 10 SW points?? (C5 to D5)???
the only way a 50g grip will add weight is if you removed a heavier grip. Another words grip weight will REDUCE swing weight when installed on a shaft without one. You need to take the weight into account when you're building. I was lucky enough to get my hands on a SW machine while I was putting together my clubs so I ensured all my clubs were swinging the same weight. Also did my putter. It was all F'd after I cut it and put a SS on it

 

Yes. Well, it will reduce what the swing weight scale reads.

 

Quasi Tangent - Many do not consider it a true swing weight value or change when it comes to changing grip weight or counterbalancing. Which is not the same as saying such changes wont have some impact on the feel. It really means that the impact on feel for grip side changes are not as predictable as they are for head weight changes. And head weight changes is what the swing weight scale was really designed to manage.

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I agree it's more of a feel thing however there is definitely a difference on the scale. If j were a custom club builder I would worry more about feel than what the numbers read. Example I assembled a 4 iron at D3 but the 3 iron felt the same at 3.5. Almost weighed exactly the same but feel exactly the same

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

So...How much is 1 swing weight in weight? So I know how much lead tape I should add.

 

And were do I put the lead tape on my wedges, irons, FW and Driver just to add swing weight nothing else such as draw etc.

 

My grips are Jumbo size with two layers of tape so if I understand it correct I need to add 1 swing weight on all my clubs...right?

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So...How much is 1 swing weight in weight? So I know how much lead tape I should add.

 

It varies a bit based on length and where exactly you put it but generally between 1.6-2 gm head weight per swing weight pt.

 

And were do I put the lead tape on my wedges, irons, FW and Driver just to add swing weight nothing else such as draw etc.

 

Where ever you can find a smooth place on the head to get good adhesion and little chance of contact with the ground that might work it loose.

 

My grips are Jumbo size with two layers of tape so if I understand it correct I need to add 1 swing weight on all my clubs...right?

 

No. The swing weight scale will read 1 or 2 pts lighter (depending on the exact weight of the grips) but that doesn't necessarily mean you need to change the head weight. The heavier grips change the total weight of the club but not the MOI of the club. The only way to determine if you might need to add head weight is to test based on the feel of the club and the actual results you get, not the SW value.

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Hi Guys.

 

Sorry if I this is of subject or belongs to another thread but the level of knownledge is very high here. But hopefully any of you have some input and can point me in the right direction.

 

I ordered and revieved a new set of clubs. Srixon z745 3-7 and z945 8-pw with Modus 120 X shafts, 0.5" extended.

Mulicompound midsize grips.

 

The problem is that I think the shaft are a little bit to stiff. What is the best way for me to try to softened the shaft a littlebit??

Is the only way to softstep em?

Does it make a difference to change to standard grips (10g lighter).

Can I add weights to the head?

 

So softstep 1xggr + add some weight to the head (a friend told me that 7 grams is the same as softstep 1ggr) + lighter grip = softer shaft??

 

Really helpful for some input in this.

 

Thanx from Sweden

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Grips have no impact on the flex. Soft stepping is really the only viable option. Yes adding weight to the head will soften them but the swing weight would likely get too heavy before you noticed enough of a change in flex. It would take at least a 4-5 SW pt increase before it would be noticeable for even the more sensitive players. Most people would need even more weight. Plus, it's a bad idea because having a head weight that's too heavy for you will typically have a much more detrimental effect on the results than the shafts being too stiff. Find the head weight that gives the best SW for you and your swing (independent of the flex) and stick with that. Then soft step once (or likely twice if you want a noticeable change in feel) to tweak the feel of the flex. If it's still too stiff, then you've got the wrong shaft and it's time to change flex or move to a different shaft model.

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Howard/Stuart

Jut got a Cally BB Alpha 815 with 665 speeder S. I want to take at least an inch off in length, down to 44.5" or maybe 44". I will be using midsize UTx grips at 63g. stock its a d3 and has a 1g in toe and 7g in heel. I have read the thread and think I need 9g at 44.5". Would appreciate any suggestions.

 

Thx

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Howard/Stuart

Jut got a Cally BB Alpha 815 with 665 speeder S. I want to take at least an inch off in length, down to 44.5" or maybe 44". I will be using midsize UTx grips at 63g. stock its a d3 and has a 1g in toe and 7g in heel. I have read the thread and think I need 9g at 44.5". Would appreciate any suggestions.

 

Thx

 

Sure.

 

Don't make assumptions about how much you will need. When you change length, keeping the SW the same when cutting down the length does not mean keeping the feel the same. And that's assuming the original SW really was a good fit before cutting down when I'm guessing you weren't actually fit for it but just using the stock SW.

 

Just get some lead tape, go to the range, and add the tape a few grams at a time. Use the ball flight results and feel to judge what the best weight will be. You can do this choking up to the desired playing length before you do the actual cutting or after cutting it down to the desired length.

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jrr

 

assuming you are happy with the head and the over feel of the shaft,

 

play the length you are most comfortable with that helps you find the middle of the club face, then try playing around with the weights to fine tune the ball flight. you might find the ball flight that you desire but lose the feel or vice versa. there's no magic formula unfortunately when it comes to drivers, and it comes down to black magic, much like putters.

 

captainmaui

 

i rebuilt a similar set for my friend last year, he's a really good ball striker and noticed his original 7 iron felt a little lose, even at x100, it wasn't until we took apart the clubs did we notice that it was softstepped twice, while his other clubs were SS1x. he didn't care about the sw because the clubs were already heavy. soft/hard step will have an impact on the feel of the clubs, but only if you compare it to other clubs in the set. Thus if you find that your entire set are too stiff, unless you ss3x you won't notice any difference.

 

were you fitted for those shafts? more often than not, on course feel is quite different to being the fitting session. some like a softer shaft when they are playing, but other actually need a heavier shaft. the head, loft and lie are the most important, assuming those are the heads that give you the best chance to flush the ball, the shaft and grip are obviously the next items to fine tune your equipment. my best advice for anyone who wants to find their money setup would be to actually play for meaningful money, doesn't mean you should bet the farm, but something that forces you to hit your goto shots. if you are able to execute those shots when it truly counts and on a consistent basis, then it doesn't matter how or what clubs you are using. those are keepers, simple as that.

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  • 4 weeks later...

I don't know if the question has been raised in this long thread but here it is:

 

The rule of thumb 1/2" = 3SW seems pretty vague to me. Can it be true of any shaft irrepective of shaft weight and length?

I mean lopping off a 1/2" from a Driver/Wood (65gr) shaft is not exactly the same as cutting down 1/2" from a 120gr iron shaft . Perhaps I'm mistaken,or the various spreadsheets and calculation tools have taken into account this type of variation.

Driver  :XXIO 10
Woods : COBRA RADSPEED 3W + 5W
Hybrids : NONE 
Irons : JPX-800-HD
Wedges : CLEVELAND CBX2  50-11 + 56-12 + 60-10
Putter : ODYSSEY WHITE HOT  RX  #2

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All the 'rules of thumb' are vague in the same way (or worse). They only provide rough estimates, some rougher than others. When it comes time to make actual adjustments, an actual scale should be used. However, that ones not too bad since the dominant impact to SW from a length change is the change in distance from the head c.g. to the balance fulcrum point.

 

The various spreadsheets and tools (if it's a complete one) wont use the rules of thumb but should do the actual calculation of the various torques around the fulcrum. That means they should take the shaft balance point and cut shaft weight as input and both those numbers should be remeasured or adjusted for new values after cutting down the length. So if you have a good tool, it will take that into consideration.

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My Anser driver head has weight port in the back, which has 5g weight screw in it. If I were to install 14g weight, will it have any negative effect on the performance (since weight is concentrated in the back) or is extra 9g of weight considered negligible? I would like to cut the shaft by ~0.75".

 

Thank you,

Ping G425 10.5 / Ping G410
Callaway UW 17*
Ping G410 4H
Cobra F7 EL 4i
Ping i200 6-UW / i500 5-PW Power Spec / i210 5-PW
Ping Glide 4.0 54/58
SC Phantom x 9.5 

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