Add a 52*, drop 5w? What's your wedge/wood setup?

[WidespreadPanic]

Drop 3/5w and add a 4w or drop 5w/3i and add a 2-3 hybrid

 

This is what I did. I dropped the 3w and 5w for a 4w and added a 4th wedge.

I think this is the answer. I can hit a 4w plenty long enough and choke down if need be. 130 yards and in is where the scoring is, so fixing the 30 yard gap between my PW and 56 is a no brainer. I am currently a 3 HC and have always said it would be lower if I didn't have to hit so many different shots with my PW. Seriously awesome feedback in here.

[ChrisLC40]

I started off with the typical 52, 56, 60 setup before I knew how to "play the game". Fast forward to now where I've spent some time with a good teacher and learning the different types of wedge shots and using 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 swings...among many other things. After the 49* AW from the iron set, I'm currenlty using a 54* and 60*. There's about a 30 yard gap between each club, but for me it's easier to have multiple swings and know each one versus having an extra club in there to lessen the gap. YMMV

[Tex1986]

My set up is D, 3W, 20* hybrid, 4-PW, 50*, 54*,60*.

 

Least used clubs in my set are the 3Wood and 54*. For the OP I would recommend a 18-21* hybrid to cover the 3i and 5 wood duties and add another wedge. This should shrink the gaps at both ends given that you don't hit your 5wood that well.

[WidespreadPanic]

My set up is D, 3W, 20* hybrid, 4-PW, 50*, 54*,60*.

 

Least used clubs in my set are the 3Wood and 54*. For the OP I would recommend a 18-21* hybrid to cover the 3i and 5 wood duties and add another wedge. This should shrink the gaps at both ends given that you don't hit your 5wood that well.

I am struggling a bit with this idea because I hit my 3 iron so much, off the tee and the turf. I only hit my 5 wood if I am at that perfect yardage for it into the green, which is maybe 1 time every couple of rounds. I guess I just need to get out there and try some hybrids, I have never really given them a chance.

[WidespreadPanic]

But I do now know that I need a 52*, it's now just up to whether I ditch the 3w and 5w for a 4w, or ditch the 5w and 3iron for a hybrid.

[psusurf]

I used to play 48, 52, 56, and 60 but only a 3 wood then a 4 iron. I just couldn't get consistent with my wedge play so I moved to a 48, 54, 60 setup recently and changed up grinds. I added a 20 degree hybrid which has been helping a lot. I think being able to focus on two wedges for greenside play has helped me become more consistent around the green.

[justincredible04]

But I do now know that I need a 52*, it's now just up to whether I ditch the 3w and 5w for a 4w, or ditch the 5w and 3iron for a hybrid.

 

Take 4W skip 3 iron. At least that's what I'd do. I don't like hitting long irons. But that changing with my new irons.

[WidespreadPanic]

I used to play 48, 52, 56, and 60 but only a 3 wood then a 4 iron. I just couldn't get consistent with my wedge play so I moved to a 48, 54, 60 setup recently and changed up grinds. I added a 20 degree hybrid which has been helping a lot. I think being able to focus on two wedges for greenside play has helped me become more consistent around the green.

I love my current wedges, all of which are Vokey Sm5 M Grind. I just need to close the 30 yard gap between 48* and 56*. I have gotten pretty good at 1/2 and 3/4 swing pitching wedges, but if I am at 110yds, and I hit my 56* 100 yards, it can some times be just too small and weird of a swing for my Pw. I also love chipping with a 52*, another reason I want to bag one. My 56* and 60* are 2 of my favorite clubs, so they are staying put.

[ChrisLC40]

But I do now know that I need a 52*, it's now just up to whether I ditch the 3w and 5w for a 4w, or ditch the 5w and 3iron for a hybrid.

 

Perhaps finding an adjustable hybrid and dial it in to split your 5w and 3i distances is the answer.

[justincredible04]

But I do now know that I need a 52*, it's now just up to whether I ditch the 3w and 5w for a 4w, or ditch the 5w and 3iron for a hybrid.

 

Perhaps finding an adjustable hybrid and dial it in to split your 5w and 3i distances is the answer.

 

Hybrids tend to go left of left for me (and others) so I go to the 4 iron hybrid and loft down to open it up a touch

[WidespreadPanic]

Here is another reason why guys at Golfsmith don't know anything. They told me that adjusting the loft down closes the face. Is it true for all brands that lifting down opens the face?

[naval2006]

3w, 2h and 4h. I can control my distance with the 2h to close the gap. 50 gap from the set, Vokeys 54 and 58. I don't compromise with my wedges. It's easy to choke down on my 2 hybrid to make it a 3. It's not so easy to manage the 54 distance with a 50 or 58, in the end it'll be short or past, but not pin high.

[cphrey]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

[justincredible04]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

 

I don't know if taylormade hybrids and drivers are different in terms of opening and closing the face, but lofting up closes the face. Lofting down opens the face

[cphrey]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

 

I don't know if taylormade hybrids and drivers are different in terms of opening and closing the face, but lofting up closes the face. Lofting down opens the face

 

 

huh...pretty sure just speaking of this conceptually, closed is lower loft and open is more. think about how you would increase loft on your wedge...you close the face down? I don't think so, you throw it open and give it more loft. works the same with all the clubs. how is it even possible to close the toe of any club and increase the loft???

[pierso2]

I dropped my 5 wood and put in a gap wedge. Dialing in shots to save par is a lot more crucial than having another long club in the bag.

[cphrey]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

 

I don't know if taylormade hybrids and drivers are different in terms of opening and closing the face, but lofting up closes the face. Lofting down opens the face

 

 

huh...pretty sure just speaking of this conceptually, closed is lower loft and open is more. think about how you would increase loft on your wedge...you close the face down? I don't think so, you throw it open and give it more loft. works the same with all the clubs. how is it even possible to close the toe of any club and increase the loft???

 

double huh...very counterconceptual to me but I guess I was wrong...

 

When you adjust a hosel to increase loft, you are actually closing the face fractionally. Conversely when you reduce loft you are open the face slightly. Some clubs counter this visual change by allowing you to also change the face angle by using balance points on the sole.

 

http://www.golfalot....clubs-2876.aspx

 

And maybe it is just TM? Idk, but it sure appears open when I increase my loft, or loft up. I just don't see how they can create more loft with a closed face. Makes no sense to me.

 

EDIT: Had to find someone that could dumb it down for it to make sense to me, but closing the face means that it will create for effective loft, bc to get back to square from that closed face position, you actually open the face a bit at impact, creating more effective loft. It now makes some sense to me. I was basing what I said purely off of opening and closing a wedge and the like. Learn every day...

 

This issue is a bit difficult to grasp, but does make sense. Remember, the only reason you would open or close a club face is because your swing does not square the club face at impact. Don't think about what the loft of the club looks like at address, but rather at impact. Here is my best shot at explaining:

 

If you have a hard time squaring your driver, you are either closing it at impact or leaving it open AT IMPACT. Let's start with leaving it open at impact. Closing the club face should help you square the club at impact, given you have the same swing. It is true that closing the club face at address looks like it de-lofts the club. But, you need to look what the club face is doing at impact. If in fact the closed club face is square at impact (which was the only reason you adjusted the club face to begin with), you had to have rotated the club face in the open direction compared to address, and you have added loft.

 

Here's how it work. A 10.5* driver that has a 2* closed face still measures 10.5* at address. If you return the face to the same position at impact as at address then the loft is still 10.5* (for simplicity sake not taking into account angle of attack or dynamic loft here). But if you square the face at impact you must have rotated the head 2* open which adds about 1.2* of loft. So the effective loft is then 11.7*.

 

The opposite is true for opening the club face. Yes it will decrease the loft.

 

Hope that helps!

[justincredible04]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

 

I don't know if taylormade hybrids and drivers are different in terms of opening and closing the face, but lofting up closes the face. Lofting down opens the face

 

 

huh...pretty sure just speaking of this conceptually, closed is lower loft and open is more. think about how you would increase loft on your wedge...you close the face down? I don't think so, you throw it open and give it more loft. works the same with all the clubs. how is it even possible to close the toe of any club and increase the loft???

 

I agree with what you're saying but that's not what is actually happening in the club. I've had this convo before and in the WRX tech discussion it's explained better than me. The shaft isn't being rotated open to add loft the lie angle and how it's going into the hosel is changing. I explain it (may be wrong) if the club is having its loft raised (shaft bending away from target line) then club head needs to be shut more closed. If the loft is being reduced the face needs to be opened to keep the lie angle close.

 

I thought the same thing as you and was schooled to it. It's not the club twisting open to add loft. The shaft is moving in the hosel

[cphrey]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

 

I don't know if taylormade hybrids and drivers are different in terms of opening and closing the face, but lofting up closes the face. Lofting down opens the face

 

 

huh...pretty sure just speaking of this conceptually, closed is lower loft and open is more. think about how you would increase loft on your wedge...you close the face down? I don't think so, you throw it open and give it more loft. works the same with all the clubs. how is it even possible to close the toe of any club and increase the loft???

 

I agree with what you're saying but that's not what is actually happening in the club. I've had this convo before and in the WRX tech discussion it's explained better than me. The shaft isn't being rotated open to add loft the lie angle and how it's going into the hosel is changing. I explain it (may be wrong) if the club is having its loft raised (shaft bending away from target line) then club head needs to be shut more closed. If the loft is being reduced the face needs to be opened to keep the lie angle close.

 

I thought the same thing as you and was schooled to it. It's not the club twisting open to add loft. The shaft is moving in the hosel

 

yep. see above. I got schooled on the google machine and now it all makes sense to me

[JStang]

I hit a 3 hybrid instead of carrying a 5 wood and carry 4 wedges. The way I look at it, the hybrid plays longer than a traditional 3 iron so it should play between a 3 iron and 5 wood.

 

Unless you are good at taking a little off a wedge swing, I find carrying 4 wedges very beneficial.

[Tex1986]

My set up is D, 3W, 20* hybrid, 4-PW, 50*, 54*,60*.

 

Least used clubs in my set are the 3Wood and 54*. For the OP I would recommend a 18-21* hybrid to cover the 3i and 5 wood duties and add another wedge. This should shrink the gaps at both ends given that you don't hit your 5wood that well.

I am struggling a bit with this idea because I hit my 3 iron so much, off the tee and the turf. I only hit my 5 wood if I am at that perfect yardage for it into the green, which is maybe 1 time every couple of rounds. I guess I just need to get out there and try some hybrids, I have never really given them a chance.

 

I here you. I was married to the 3 iron when I was playing hockey competitively and only playing golf 3-5 rounds a year. I would pound it off every tee, and use it for my inevitable 2nd shot punch out from the woods. Never liked fairway woods, and couldn't hit the driver at all back then.

 

This spot of the bag is very personal and there's not a good answer for everyone. Lots of folks have "old faithful" 5W/hybrid/iron because they approach things a certain way. Definitely don't drop the 3iron unless you've got/found something that works better for you.

 

It's also endlessly frustrating that the wedge selection/setup always influences this spot in the bag lol.

[WidespreadPanic]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

 

I don't know if taylormade hybrids and drivers are different in terms of opening and closing the face, but lofting up closes the face. Lofting down opens the face

 

 

huh...pretty sure just speaking of this conceptually, closed is lower loft and open is more. think about how you would increase loft on your wedge...you close the face down? I don't think so, you throw it open and give it more loft. works the same with all the clubs. how is it even possible to close the toe of any club and increase the loft???

I just got my m2 driver in the mail and didn't realize the way you change lost on a TM is you actually rotate the shaft. I rotated it to more loft and it Definitly closed the face. So I guess if I want to put my Golf Pride multicompound grip on it I need to pick a loft and stick with it. Anyways...

[Exactice808]

I'm trying to figure out what to do with my club picks. I really need a 52* to manage the gap between my 48* and 56* (I have a 60*) but I also need to think about the gap between my 3W and 3iron. Should I drop the 5w and add a 52*? Should I drop the PW and just get a 50* so I would go 9iron-50*-56*-60*? Should I drop the 3wood and get a 4wood so I could add a 52*? So many choices. I'm leaning to dropping the 5wood (can't hit it too well) and getting the 52* because the ~30 yards between my 48* and 56* can be a pain in the a**.

 

That might have been very confusing. So many choices.

 

 

I go 3iron to 3 wood

 

I have a full Wedge Setup

 

46,50,54,58

 

 

My Reasons.

 

Top of Bag

 

3iron goes 200-210 and down from there, I use my 3iron as a driving iron for tight holes, Punch shots and shots that I need the straightest face to work left and right

 

My 3 wood goes 235-250 - If use this off the tee and for Par 5's Either for second shots to get closer to the green or to try and reach a green in 2.

 

 

I choose not have a 5 wood to fill the gap between my 3 iron and 3wood as I realized that attacking a Par 5 at that distance is not worth it. The 3 wood and the 3 iron should be the deciding factor. If I can reach with either its worth attacking. if its not within those reaches, I will layup. 90% of the course that I play have danger to plague the shot anyways, so its a way to force to me to layup.

 

 

Wedges

 

The reason I carry more wedges

 

1) I use my 58* a lot, for a lot of touch shots around the green.

2) I generally play shorter course, 5800-6200 courses. This leaves me with a lot more shorter approaches to green rather than longer shots that require a 5 wood.

3) Along with these short courses, are shorter Par 5's were laying up is key, Hitting a 3 or 4 iron off the tee box, then a 7 iron to 100 yards and then a 50* knockdown or a full 54* sandwedge. All shots that required more wedges for me.

 

 

The point of my post.

 

 

Evaluated your course you play on a normal basis, What clubs do you find you use more often? Again due to the course I play that are shorter, My Second shots can sometimes be 120-75 yards.....on a bunch of par 4's Warranting a full lower end of the bag.

 

 

If I played more 6800+ yard courses, I think I would be inclined to use a 5 wood... but again.... there is no point.... Evaluated and select!

[WidespreadPanic]

My set up is D, 3W, 20* hybrid, 4-PW, 50*, 54*,60*.

 

Least used clubs in my set are the 3Wood and 54*. For the OP I would recommend a 18-21* hybrid to cover the 3i and 5 wood duties and add another wedge. This should shrink the gaps at both ends given that you don't hit your 5wood that well.

I am struggling a bit with this idea because I hit my 3 iron so much, off the tee and the turf. I only hit my 5 wood if I am at that perfect yardage for it into the green, which is maybe 1 time every couple of rounds. I guess I just need to get out there and try some hybrids, I have never really given them a chance.

 

I here you. I was married to the 3 iron when I was playing hockey competitively and only playing golf 3-5 rounds a year. I would pound it off every tee, and use it for my inevitable 2nd shot punch out from the woods. Never liked fairway woods, and couldn't hit the driver at all back then.

 

This spot of the bag is very personal and there's not a good answer for everyone. Lots of folks have "old faithful" 5W/hybrid/iron because they approach things a certain way. Definitely don't drop the 3iron unless you've got/found something that works better for you.

 

It's also endlessly frustrating that the wedge selection/setup always influences this spot in the bag lol.

For now I'm going to drop the 5 wood and add the 52* and see how it goes. If I have problems up top I might go for a high launch 3 wood/4 wood.

[cphrey]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

 

I don't know if taylormade hybrids and drivers are different in terms of opening and closing the face, but lofting up closes the face. Lofting down opens the face

 

 

huh...pretty sure just speaking of this conceptually, closed is lower loft and open is more. think about how you would increase loft on your wedge...you close the face down? I don't think so, you throw it open and give it more loft. works the same with all the clubs. how is it even possible to close the toe of any club and increase the loft???

I just got my m2 driver in the mail and didn't realize the way you change lost on a TM is you actually rotate the shaft. I rotated it to more loft and it Definitly closed the face. So I guess if I want to put my Golf Pride multicompound grip on it I need to pick a loft and stick with it. Anyways...

 

yeah that is why those adjustable clubs come with pretty standard all black or all one color grips. I use a rib as well, which I have begun to put in myself with some GolfWorks kit. That way I can get the club set how I like it, put the rib on, and then put any grip on I want, logo down taboot. I just got some Justin Rose Lamkin Tour Van grips the REL A.C.E. that have less taper under the right hand. I guess what I am saying is if you care about where the logo on your grip goes you should get the club set and install the grip to that setting. Or if you plan on changing the setting often you should try something more plain like a Tour Velvet or something. But if a rotated, yet round grip wont bother you, just go for it! Set it on standard and fiddle.

[Cons]

I had 52 56 60 and dropped 56 for 52 58 and an extra club at the top. It simplifies short game choices for me and I've never had a short game shot were I really wished I had a 56 and couldn't manage without it.

[Exactice808]

less loft on adjustable means closing the face...only way to lower loft, and only way to increase loft is to open the face a bit...

 

I don't know if taylormade hybrids and drivers are different in terms of opening and closing the face, but lofting up closes the face. Lofting down opens the face

 

 

huh...pretty sure just speaking of this conceptually, closed is lower loft and open is more. think about how you would increase loft on your wedge...you close the face down? I don't think so, you throw it open and give it more loft. works the same with all the clubs. how is it even possible to close the toe of any club and increase the loft???

I just got my m2 driver in the mail and didn't realize the way you change lost on a TM is you actually rotate the shaft. I rotated it to more loft and it Definitly closed the face. So I guess if I want to put my Golf Pride multicompound grip on it I need to pick a loft and stick with it. Anyways...

 

yeah that is why those adjustable clubs come with pretty standard all black or all one color grips. I use a rib as well, which I have begun to put in myself with some GolfWorks kit. That way I can get the club set how I like it, put the rib on, and then put any grip on I want, logo down taboot. I just got some Justin Rose Lamkin Tour Van grips the REL A.C.E. that have less taper under the right hand. I guess what I am saying is if you care about where the logo on your grip goes you should get the club set and install the grip to that setting. Or if you plan on changing the setting often you should try something more plain like a Tour Velvet or something. But if a rotated, yet round grip wont bother you, just go for it! Set it on standard and fiddle.

 

 

Let me get into this real quick

 

Adjustable clubs

 

1) Increasing loft (8.5 to 9.5) Closes the face

2) Decreasing loft (9.5 to 8.5) Opens the face

 

 

The reason for this is the lie angles are changed when you "rotate" the Shaft in the head. The notches on the adapter place the shaft at higher or lower "lie angles" and this is what causes the lofts to go up and down. More upright, the face is closed. More Flat the the face is open.

 

 

Secondly the Adapter changes only APPLY if you square the face at impact. so if you sole the club. this negates the loft changes but applies the face angle changes

 

1) If you have a 9.5* driver and try to lower the loft, to 8.5. if you sole the club, the Loft is still 9.5* but now the face angle can open 1-1.5*s from standard

2) if you have a 8.5* driver and try to increase the loft to 9.5, if you sole the club, the loft is still 8.5* but now the face angle can be closed 1-1.5* from standard.

 

 

The only time loft is applies is if you hover/float the club with the face square, or if you swing the club and square the club at impact.

 

 

 

Sorry just had to get into it.

[SplashShot]

My set goes 3w to 18*hybrid to 4i.

 

Mine is the same.

 

I only carry 3 wedges though.. I have an extra slot in the bag not being used atm.

[cmatthews77]

My set goes 3w to 18*hybrid to 4i.

 

Mine is the same.

 

I only carry 3 wedges though.. I have an extra slot in the bag not being used atm.

I wish I had that luxury. I need a 15th slot!!!

[WidespreadPanic]

My set goes 3w to 18*hybrid to 4i.

 

Mine is the same.

 

I only carry 3 wedges though.. I have an extra slot in the bag not being used atm.

I wish I had that luxury. I need a 15th slot!!!

I need a 15th too. Would make my (golf) life a lot easier.