Shaft play during test fit.

[Hack Daddy]

Building my first set of clubs, so forgive me if this is a trivial question to most of you.

 

I first did a set of cobra wedges from .355 to .370. Worked perfect. Reamer did the job, prep tips, epoxy - no issues.

 

I bought a set of Nike VR Pro Blades. I cleaned the hosel with the drill brush, oiled the reamer, and it literally went to the bottom of all the heads (my reamer is .370 to accommodate the XCaliber shafts). So I put a prep'd shaft in for test fit and got some wobble. I used a mic to check my shaft tip OD and it's sitting around .368 - .371. So here are my questions;

 

1. Is this normal?

 

2. Do I need to shim?

 

3. If no shim, should I use a collared ferrule to keep the head centered on the shaft during epoxy. (I've used regular ferrules previously, since using graphite iron shafts).

 

Here is a video - I apologize for the video make-shift tripod.

 

 

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=dqlUnsYSwn8

[skraly]

Building my first set of clubs, so forgive me if this is a trivial question to most of you.

 

I first did a set of cobra wedges from .355 to .370. Worked perfect. Reamer did the job, prep tips, epoxy - no issues.

 

I bought a set of Nike VR Pro Blades. I cleaned the hosel with the drill brush, oiled the reamer, and it literally went to the bottom of all the heads (my reamer is .370 to accommodate the XCaliber shafts). So I put a prep'd shaft in for test fit and got some wobble. I used a mic to check my shaft tip OD and it's sitting around .368 - .371. So here are my questions;

 

1. Is this normal?

 

2. Do I need to shim?

 

3. If no shim, should I use a collared ferrule to keep the head centered on the shaft during epoxy. (I've used regular ferrules previously, since using graphite iron shafts).

 

Here is a video - I apologize for the video make-shift tripod.

 

 

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=dqlUnsYSwn8

That is within manufacturing error. Using a collared ferrule will help. I would also use shafting beads in the epoxy. Final bulid shouldn't be any problem.

[Hack Daddy]

I just mic'd all the hosel's and they are coming in at .375"

[Lagavulin62]

No reference with new clubs. That does not look good!

[dunn]

When reshafting irons lil wobble is usually the standard....try to be as careful as you can when cleaning hosel out but prepping tips and cleaning hosels results in a bit of wobble....more times you use a shaft and clean hosels more likely to get more play...wire brush reamer is best I find and yeah collared ferrules work well if you can find.....

 

I usually get my iron heads checked after reshafting especially if head or shafts has been used number of times.....I get em as close as I can prior to install but still....when you work with something over and over its not new anymore so bound to be some play.....not big deal

 

Try to "seat" shafts as best as you can and get em checked and adjusted if needed....

 

BTW I didn't look at video just basing this off my own experience...used heads and shafts on 3 or 4 rebuilds and know this is common....and yeah shims will only work if it's really sloppy...most times it's sloppy but not enough for a shim...

 

If worried just get em checked after build and bent if needed....it will usually be more upright if anything

 

Manufacturers aren't that accurate if your curious...seen many sets new off the rack that weren't what you would think they would be...so it's not that big a deal

[Howard_Jones]

Just follow Skraly and his advice, the difference is not large enough to get a shim down there. (see below)

Normally we can use a brass shim using .355 taper in a .370 parallel hosel, so thats .015 as a difference or 3 x what you measure here.

 

Shaft beads and the correct Collared ferrule should fix it, but if you are very anal about it, you will have to modify a brass shim and cut off a few arms on it so you only use 3 of them. It might even be needed to squeeze them flat to make them small enough, so if you have any of them at hand, try to modify one, and make sure you get full insert. (be prepared to use a shaft puller to get the shaft out again if it gets stuck)

 

Its brass shims of this type im talking about, where you cut of 3 off 6 arms so it still center the shaft

http://i.ebayimg.com...K-hS/s-l300.jpg

[Hack Daddy]

Great, thanks for all the solid input, Gentleman. I really appreciate it.

 

I went to my local guy and we messed around with some collared ferrules - turns out the PXG work well... so far. They are a little longer, which allowed me to reduce the length of the collar to fit each head the best. I epoxied the PW,9, and 8 tonight. When I set them, and pushed down on them, they seemed to set a little bit. Maybe I just needed to really put the shaft on its butt, and push.

 

Here's to hoping I don't watch a head fly down the range anytime soon. I will keep everyone updated

[dunn]

Turn club upside down and slam butt end of grip on ground...do it firmly but don't do it as to pop the shaft through butt cap...head seats lil better this way I find

 

Your heads are fine, I know first time I did it I didn't trust it but since I have done trial/test irons and didn't even prep the right way and heads stayed on fine....

 

It just seems odd that's all there really was to it...very simple, but clubmaking can be a real art form....there is whole other level to building clubs for professional guys.....but basic swing weight and epoxy is pretty simple....getting lengths, weighting, loft lie correct and turning my ferrules is as far as I take it.....