SM6 Wedges

[TheGriftKings]

Did anyone bought a k grind and add sole grind. Made some research and vokey release a kgrind "dufner" edition and the sole has some trailing edge and heel relief. Would love to try something like this. Looks to be the perfect grind.

 

Are you referring to the Vokey Wedgeworks K Grind Low bounce version? I'm really thinking about ordering the 58.06 K, but once you put your shaft in and add shipping it's about $250 which is a bit much to gamble on. I'd love to hear from anyone who has purchased it.

[jmudo]

Did anyone bought a k grind and add sole grind.

 

I added some trailing edge grind to a 58.11K SM5 that I had. Problem that I had before was that unless I kept my hands way in front on tight lies the trailing edge would impact the ground before I hit the ball.

 

Looks like a bit of a hack job since it was the first grind I did, but it has helped.

 

[C_rad]

Did anyone bought a k grind and add sole grind.

 

I added some trailing edge grind to a 58.11K SM5 that I had. Problem that I had before was that unless I kept my hands way in front on tight lies the trailing edge would impact the ground before I hit the ball.

 

Looks like a bit of a hack job since it was the first grind I did, but it has helped.

have you removed some materiel on the heel as well? almost bought one last night but found an old vokey 2009 60 who has asimilar grind to the k grind of today! just need to remove the nickel...

[Buddy5z]

Get them finished whatever color you want from the golf fix

[jmudo]

Ground enough of the heel so the leading edge stays down if I want to open it up on some hard pan. Probably should have just upgraded to an SM6 S grind, but this was cheaper. The jury is still out on the effectiveness.

[short game]

man - i give you an A for effort there!

[C_rad]

Hey guys, i have ctaper lite stiff in my irons and really love the feel. I cant say that i enjoy the stock true twmper. I gave a try to the ctaper lite last year in a 50 but it wasnt nice. Want to keep the kbs feeling and around 115 grams. What do you recommend?

[short game]

well that 60 degree K grind with 12 degrees of bounce continues to excel in the traps. today was windy and i ended up in green side traps 4 times. Each time the k grind got me out with a make - able putt and i sank 2 of them for par.

 

i am still learning how to "trust" it from tighter lies. it seems especially difficult in wet conditions.

[C_rad]

well that 60 degree K grind with 12 degrees of bounce continues to excel in the traps. today was windy and i ended up in green side traps 4 times. Each time the k grind got me out with a make - able putt and i sank 2 of them for par.

 

i am still learning how to "trust" it from tighter lies. it seems especially difficult in wet conditions.

this is why i will go with the s grind. I just trust this grind much more.

[Nixhex524]

I'm a cheapass so I normally buy generation(s) old wedges, SM4, SM5.... wasn't impressed with either and thought my J40s were much better. But, they were getting worn so I decided to use some credit and pick up some SM6s... Conditions are normally pretty firm out here in SoCal but I tend to dig my wedges so I went with 52/12F and 58/12K, both jet black. Besides these being some of the best looking wedges I have ever seen, I am really impressed with how they performed out on the course last week. They did everything I could ask for and I didn't get to practice with them before the round. I didn't get into any traps so the verdict on the 58K is still out, but around the greens it is awesome. Still not sure about the Wedge flex but they'll do for now. May throw some spinners in them. The 52/12 was good around the greens, too, and will be a real weapon when I get the longer pitches dialed in. Happy so far!

[C_rad]

Can anyone post a pic of how their strip raw wedge lokks after a few months of used? I did mine last night! Looks nice but dont want them to be totally rusted!!!

[SwingMan]

I'm a cheapass so I normally buy generation(s) old wedges, SM4, SM5.... wasn't impressed with either and thought my J40s were much better. But, they were getting worn so I decided to use some credit and pick up some SM6s... Conditions are normally pretty firm out here in SoCal but I tend to dig my wedges so I went with 52/12F and 58/12K, both jet black. Besides these being some of the best looking wedges I have ever seen, I am really impressed with how they performed out on the course last week. They did everything I could ask for and I didn't get to practice with them before the round. I didn't get into any traps so the verdict on the 58K is still out, but around the greens it is awesome. Still not sure about the Wedge flex but they'll do for now. May throw some spinners in them. The 52/12 was good around the greens, too, and will be a real weapon when I get the longer pitches dialed in. Happy so far!

 

Look into Nippon Pro Modus 3 Wedge Shafts...

[Nixhex524]

I'm a cheapass so I normally buy generation(s) old wedges, SM4, SM5.... wasn't impressed with either and thought my J40s were much better. But, they were getting worn so I decided to use some credit and pick up some SM6s... Conditions are normally pretty firm out here in SoCal but I tend to dig my wedges so I went with 52/12F and 58/12K, both jet black. Besides these being some of the best looking wedges I have ever seen, I am really impressed with how they performed out on the course last week. They did everything I could ask for and I didn't get to practice with them before the round. I didn't get into any traps so the verdict on the 58K is still out, but around the greens it is awesome. Still not sure about the Wedge flex but they'll do for now. May throw some spinners in them. The 52/12 was good around the greens, too, and will be a real weapon when I get the longer pitches dialed in. Happy so far!

 

Look into Nippon Pro Modus 3 Wedge Shafts...

 

Thanks. I have had luck with the Spinner but will definitely check out the Nippon. Cheers!

[C_rad]

Personnaly im going with project x lz

[Hot Rod 71]

Can anyone post a pic of how their strip raw wedge lokks after a few months of used? I did mine last night! Looks nice but dont want them to be totally rusted!!!

 

Mine still look the same.

 

I played with a friend yesterday who has the raw wedges (ordered from Titleist last year) and his are only slightly showing small bits rust. He does clean his clubs after each use so that may be why. The finish on his are also lighter in color and a little shinier (if that makes since) than mine.

 

[vitesse10]

Can anyone post a pic of how their strip raw wedge lokks after a few months of used? I did mine last night! Looks nice but dont want them to be totally rusted!!!

 

Not sure if this is exactly what you are looking for, but here is my sm6 raw from wedgeworks. Lots of rusting.

[C_rad]

im still undecide between the s and the m grind in my 60*... it is hard to choose between the versatility and the functionnal. I have an old spin milled 60.10* and i really like this grind. wish it was the same in the sm6. Look like a k grind without too much bounce...

[short game]

the s and m grind play very different. the M grind has so much relief that it plays like a club with very little bounce. the S - well not so much. i have both in a 54 bent to 55. Right now i like the S grind. But that club is filling a different role for me than it will for you.

 

i am sure this was brought up before - but maybe you should examine the low bounce K grind. it may be the best of both worlds.

[C_rad]

I want something like that!!!!

[North Butte]

That is pretty close to the high-$$$ Wedgeworks low bounce version of the K grind. For years I use pad that exact wedge as pictured bent to 61 degrees and it was extremely versatile.

[C_rad]

That is pretty close to the high-$$$ Wedgeworks low bounce version of the K grind. For years I use pad that exact wedge as pictured bent to 61 degrees and it was extremely versatile.

ah cmon. Dont tell me that. I dont want to spend that much! Could a s grind play close to this one?

[garethw]

well that 60 degree K grind with 12 degrees of bounce continues to excel in the traps. today was windy and i ended up in green side traps 4 times. Each time the k grind got me out with a make - able putt and i sank 2 of them for par.

 

i am still learning how to "trust" it from tighter lies. it seems especially difficult in wet conditions.

this is why i will go with the s grind. I just trust this grind much more.

 

I have a 58 K and a 54 S and much prefer the K over the S. Some patches of our course are pretty damp from a lack of drainage, some parts are hard packed and very dry, where with my Glides I'd automatically pull the 54 SS over the 58 ES I am the opposite with these, the 58 is grabbed first. Soft fluffy sand would reduce me to to a quivering wreck, that K grind just plain works in there.

[North Butte]

I bought a 58-K (the retails one, not the low-bounce) and 54-S combination a couple years ago. Eventually I went back to my iron-set wedges but I got on with the 58-K just marvelously. The 54-S was a total non-starter for me. That is just not at all similar for my game to the K-grind.

[pinestreetgolf]

I want something like that!!!!

That is pretty close to the high-$$$ Wedgeworks low bounce version of the K grind. For years I use pad that exact wedge as pictured bent to 61 degrees and it was extremely versatile.

 

I'm impressed you can tell bounce angle from a picture at that angle. Why do you think that is "low bounce" ? The freaking leading edge is behind the picture! How can you tell that?

 

That looks like a completely normal wide-sole K grind. The 200 series 60-08/10s were just K grinds. I think a 60/12 K would be identical to that, I'm not sure why you think that is a +$100 low bounce K. Its just a normal wide sole, high bounce 60*. I play a 58-12 K sm6. Its a fantastic club. Before that, I played basically the wedge in that picture (200 series 60-08 "wide sole") and I went to the same sm6 (high bounce K).

 

To C-rad re: shafts, the Diamond Tour Golf Stepless Wedge Shaft is 115 grams and is $6. I would be incredibly surprised if you could tell the "feel" of a wedge shaft beyond weight in a blind test. 100 grams versus 120? definately. A 115 KBS versus a 115 cheap generic? Very doubtful. Not impossible, but its like fine wine. 99% of people who talk about "feel" wouldn't pass a blind test at the same weight in wedges. You put it in a 5 iron, sure, but not 33 inches of shaft. Try the $6 115g shaft first, nothing to lose. The differences between the tolerances in the shafts are much much smaller than the tolerances in your swing.

[North Butte]

I played the grooves off of two older 60.10's six, seven, eight years ago. Then more recently I played the retail 58-K model for a few months. It played with much more bounce than my old 60.10's ever did. I actually liked the extra bounce and thought it was a good thing for my game, FWIW.

 

I've seen the VokeyWorks low-bounce version of the 60-K and it looked to me to have less bounce than my retail 58-K and reminded me a lot of my old 60.10's. I personally would prefer the retail version but the VokeyWorks one is more like my old wedges.

 

Maybe my memory is faulty or maybe my eyesight has gone bad but I can only report what I've seen and what I remember.

[C_rad]

I want something like that!!!!

That is pretty close to the high-$$$ Wedgeworks low bounce version of the K grind. For years I use pad that exact wedge as pictured bent to 61 degrees and it was extremely versatile.

 

I'm impressed you can tell bounce angle from a picture at that angle. Why do you think that is "low bounce" ? The freaking leading edge is behind the picture! How can you tell that?

 

That looks like a completely normal wide-sole K grind. The 200 series 60-08/10s were just K grinds. I think a 60/12 K would be identical to that, I'm not sure why you think that is a +$100 low bounce K. Its just a normal wide sole, high bounce 60*. I play a 58-12 K sm6. Its a fantastic club. Before that, I played basically the wedge in that picture (200 series 60-08 "wide sole") and I went to the same sm6 (high bounce K).

 

To C-rad re: shafts, the Diamond Tour Golf Stepless Wedge Shaft is 115 grams and is $6. I would be incredibly surprised if you could tell the "feel" of a wedge shaft beyond weight in a blind test. 100 grams versus 120? definately. A 115 KBS versus a 115 cheap generic? Very doubtful. Not impossible, but its like fine wine. 99% of people who talk about "feel" wouldn't pass a blind test at the same weight in wedges. You put it in a 5 iron, sure, but not 33 inches of shaft. Try the $6 115g shaft first, nothing to lose. The differences between the tolerances in the shafts are much much smaller than the tolerances in your swing.

i really appreciate your comment. I had a deal on lz 5.5 so this is what i will try in my wedges tgis year. Same weight and same flex as in my irons. Regarding the k grind, you really think the sm6 k is similar to that? With my 60 i can open the face and execute a "safe" flop shot. Im not sure i can do that woth the sm6k... the l is a nono, the m looks like it need a delicate execution, and the k doesnt look to be versatile. This is why i think the s is the safest bet. How about s vs k?

[PINGLOVER4EVER]

The SM6 wedges are the only ones that could knock my Gorge out the bag!! the K-Grind is amazing

[TheBoomer]

Miura Classics

Miura K Grinds

Miura 1957 Series

Miura Customs

Epon Personal

Epon 210

Epon 213

Scratch

Chikara

Epon Tour

Fourteen Tour

 

For some reason the Titleist SM6 are absolutely perfect for me ( Bounce / Grind / Weight)

Im currently playing 52/56/60 Forgot the Grinds

 

I'm back to Vokey's for NOW

[pinestreetgolf]

I want something like that!!!!

That is pretty close to the high-$$$ Wedgeworks low bounce version of the K grind. For years I use pad that exact wedge as pictured bent to 61 degrees and it was extremely versatile.

 

I'm impressed you can tell bounce angle from a picture at that angle. Why do you think that is "low bounce" ? The freaking leading edge is behind the picture! How can you tell that?

 

That looks like a completely normal wide-sole K grind. The 200 series 60-08/10s were just K grinds. I think a 60/12 K would be identical to that, I'm not sure why you think that is a +$100 low bounce K. Its just a normal wide sole, high bounce 60*. I play a 58-12 K sm6. Its a fantastic club. Before that, I played basically the wedge in that picture (200 series 60-08 "wide sole") and I went to the same sm6 (high bounce K).

 

To C-rad re: shafts, the Diamond Tour Golf Stepless Wedge Shaft is 115 grams and is $6. I would be incredibly surprised if you could tell the "feel" of a wedge shaft beyond weight in a blind test. 100 grams versus 120? definately. A 115 KBS versus a 115 cheap generic? Very doubtful. Not impossible, but its like fine wine. 99% of people who talk about "feel" wouldn't pass a blind test at the same weight in wedges. You put it in a 5 iron, sure, but not 33 inches of shaft. Try the $6 115g shaft first, nothing to lose. The differences between the tolerances in the shafts are much much smaller than the tolerances in your swing.

i really appreciate your comment. I had a deal on lz 5.5 so this is what i will try in my wedges tgis year. Same weight and same flex as in my irons. Regarding the k grind, you really think the sm6 k is similar to that? With my 60 i can open the face and execute a "safe" flop shot. Im not sure i can do that woth the sm6k... the l is a nono, the m looks like it need a delicate execution, and the k doesnt look to be versatile. This is why i think the s is the safest bet. How about s vs k?

 

The M grind is a medium grind - it has nothing at all extreme in it. It can be used from the fairway, opened up, hooded, used out of bunkers, etc... However, while it doesn't really make anything harder, it doesn't make anything easier, either. It is difficult to find a shot a M grind can't hit, but it is also difficult to find a shot that is easier to hit because you have an M grind. Lots of players like an "M" in their middle wedge (56, etc...) because it excels in really really wierd situations. It can be opened up, shut down, punched, flopped, sweeped, dug - whatever you want, it can function that way. However, it is probably the most "difficult" to hit of all the grinds except the L because it gives zero help (or hindrance) to any particular shot. Its a lot like a blade. Whatever you do, it does. For some players thats great. For some its not.

 

The S grind is basically an M grind without the relief behind the leading edge ground away. The S will be much easier to use on full swings (it won't catch nearly as easily) or on tight lies. It will also be (theoretically) much harder to open up than the M, because it still has a ton of metal behind the leading edge that can dig. Again, a good player will see an M and an S the same. Somebody who might struggle with their wedge swing (Especially who fights the scoops) will tend to blade the M and hit decent shots with the S. An S is (basically) an M on easy mode from tight lies and on hard mode when opened up.

 

The K grind is the successor to the wide-sole wedges of the 200 series. The wedge is significantly wider than all other grinds, which allows it to smoothly slide under the ball. This makes it (Basically) the easiest to hit out of any shot where you want to do that - usually bunker or green-side rough. it is also pretty easy to hit full swing shots with a K grind because it doesn't catch. The K struggles from the combination of tight lies and short distance usually - either wet sand, or a greenside tight lie where you have to hit a short distance. I've gotten pretty adept at hooding my 60 slightly to hit this shot with a ton of spin, but its tricky. There is no wedge that can do everything, and in my opinion the wide wide sole of the K gives you the best chance of not having a disaster (skull, fat) even if it is slightly less precise. Mickelson uses a K, for example. The K has by far the most tolerance for a steep swing (or one that is too steep) which tends to be the miss of not great players. Most (not all, before people jump on me) mid caps don't sweep their short game shots, they take divots. A K gives maximum forgiveness for too steep into the ball.

 

An L is the opposite of the K - it will not slide, and it is meant for people who come in shallow to stop them from blading the ball. It is possible you come in too shallow, its just rare. The L's mission in life is not to let the leading edge strike the ball before the face. However, since you swing shallow with this wedge IF you blade you might need to bring shin pads for your playing partners. I haven't heard you mention teh L, but plently of people play it.

 

Wedge grind is an insanely personal thing, but you need to know exactly what you are trying to accomplish and what your greenside "plan" is. Are you an Utley guy? (one wedge for low shots, one wedge for high shots, all short game shots are one or the other) Are you a Stockton guy? Are you a Mickelson guy (I am - one wide sole 60 for all greenside shots)? A Siedeckman guy (sp - advocates a wedge for greenside and actually a different grip entirely)? etc...

 

You need to know the following (IMO) to properly select a wedge:

 

1. How do you hit short game shots, in general? How do you approach the short game from a theoretical perspective?

2. What do your divots look like when you hit full wedge shots?

3. What is your plan for the six standard greenside shots? (wet bunker, loose bunker, long firm, short firm, long flufy, short fluffy)

4. What is your "oh my god I'm in deep s.h.*.t." center of the green short game shot?

 

The lie controls the short game. Your angel of attack (for the most part) and plan determines how your wedge's bounce and grind interacts with that lie.

 

For me, I hit almost every single short game shot with my K except short firm, which I hit my 55.12 on. It works very well. My get out of jail shot is to open the K grind up, play it back, and swing hard.

 

So its not really S vs. K. You need to think about how you want to attack the short game - what makes sense to you, and what makes you comfortable. Either one can work great. I think the K is better (I play it) but that's because I have a very steep short game swing, and my miss is the chilli dip - which the K fights). If I was as shallow as I am steep, I'd be extolling the virtues of the L grind. Its all about knowing yourself. You cannot select a good wedge set up without knowing yourself.

 

You have to think about this for yourself, though. An ounce of preparation is worth a pound of cure when it comes to wedges. There's nothing wrong with putting in a few practice sessions and seeing the divots your taking and seeing what your comfortable with (high vs. low, spin vs. height, hooded vs. open, back vs. up, etc...) and THEN making a decision. Even taking note of your divots for a few rounds will make you much better at picking what grind you need.

[SilverBullets]

I want something like that!!!!

That is pretty close to the high-$$$ Wedgeworks low bounce version of the K grind. For years I use pad that exact wedge as pictured bent to 61 degrees and it was extremely versatile.

 

I'm impressed you can tell bounce angle from a picture at that angle. Why do you think that is "low bounce" ? The freaking leading edge is behind the picture! How can you tell that?

 

That looks like a completely normal wide-sole K grind. The 200 series 60-08/10s were just K grinds. I think a 60/12 K would be identical to that, I'm not sure why you think that is a +$100 low bounce K. Its just a normal wide sole, high bounce 60*. I play a 58-12 K sm6. Its a fantastic club. Before that, I played basically the wedge in that picture (200 series 60-08 "wide sole") and I went to the same sm6 (high bounce K).

 

To C-rad re: shafts, the Diamond Tour Golf Stepless Wedge Shaft is 115 grams and is $6. I would be incredibly surprised if you could tell the "feel" of a wedge shaft beyond weight in a blind test. 100 grams versus 120? definately. A 115 KBS versus a 115 cheap generic? Very doubtful. Not impossible, but its like fine wine. 99% of people who talk about "feel" wouldn't pass a blind test at the same weight in wedges. You put it in a 5 iron, sure, but not 33 inches of shaft. Try the $6 115g shaft first, nothing to lose. The differences between the tolerances in the shafts are much much smaller than the tolerances in your swing.

i really appreciate your comment. I had a deal on lz 5.5 so this is what i will try in my wedges tgis year. Same weight and same flex as in my irons. Regarding the k grind, you really think the sm6 k is similar to that? With my 60 i can open the face and execute a "safe" flop shot. Im not sure i can do that woth the sm6k... the l is a nono, the m looks like it need a delicate execution, and the k doesnt look to be versatile. This is why i think the s is the safest bet. How about s vs k?

 

The M grind is a medium grind - it has nothing at all extreme in it. It can be used from the fairway, opened up, hooded, used out of bunkers, etc... However, while it doesn't really make anything harder, it doesn't make anything easier, either. It is difficult to find a shot a M grind can't hit, but it is also difficult to find a shot that is easier to hit because you have an M grind. Lots of players like an "M" in their middle wedge (56, etc...) because it excels in really really wierd situations. It can be opened up, shut down, punched, flopped, sweeped, dug - whatever you want, it can function that way. However, it is probably the most "difficult" to hit of all the grinds except the L because it gives zero help (or hindrance) to any particular shot. Its a lot like a blade. Whatever you do, it does. For some players thats great. For some its not.

 

The S grind is basically an M grind without the relief behind the leading edge ground away. The S will be much easier to use on full swings (it won't catch nearly as easily) or on tight lies. It will also be (theoretically) much harder to open up than the M, because it still has a ton of metal behind the leading edge that can dig. Again, a good player will see an M and an S the same. Somebody who might struggle with their wedge swing (Especially who fights the scoops) will tend to blade the M and hit decent shots with the S. An S is (basically) an M on easy mode from tight lies and on hard mode when opened up.

 

The K grind is the successor to the wide-sole wedges of the 200 series. The wedge is significantly wider than all other grinds, which allows it to smoothly slide under the ball. This makes it (Basically) the easiest to hit out of any shot where you want to do that - usually bunker or green-side rough. it is also pretty easy to hit full swing shots with a K grind because it doesn't catch. The K struggles from the combination of tight lies and short distance usually - either wet sand, or a greenside tight lie where you have to hit a short distance. I've gotten pretty adept at hooding my 60 slightly to hit this shot with a ton of spin, but its tricky. There is no wedge that can do everything, and in my opinion the wide wide sole of the K gives you the best chance of not having a disaster (skull, fat) even if it is slightly less precise. Mickelson uses a K, for example. The K has by far the most tolerance for a steep swing (or one that is too steep) which tends to be the miss of not great players. Most (not all, before people jump on me) mid caps don't sweep their short game shots, they take divots. A K gives maximum forgiveness for too steep into the ball.

 

An L is the opposite of the K - it will not slide, and it is meant for people who come in shallow to stop them from blading the ball. It is possible you come in too shallow, its just rare. The L's mission in life is not to let the leading edge strike the ball before the face. However, since you swing shallow with this wedge IF you blade you might need to bring shin pads for your playing partners. I haven't heard you mention teh L, but plently of people play it.

 

Wedge grind is an insanely personal thing, but you need to know exactly what you are trying to accomplish and what your greenside "plan" is. Are you an Utley guy? (one wedge for low shots, one wedge for high shots, all short game shots are one or the other) Are you a Stockton guy? Are you a Mickelson guy (I am - one wide sole 60 for all greenside shots)? A Siedeckman guy (sp - advocates a wedge for greenside and actually a different grip entirely)? etc...

 

You need to know the following (IMO) to properly select a wedge:

 

1. How do you hit short game shots, in general? How do you approach the short game from a theoretical perspective?

2. What do your divots look like when you hit full wedge shots?

3. What is your plan for the six standard greenside shots? (wet bunker, loose bunker, long firm, short firm, long flufy, short fluffy)

4. What is your "oh my god I'm in deep s.h.*.t." center of the green short game shot?

 

The lie controls the short game. Your angel of attack (for the most part) and plan determines how your wedge's bounce and grind interacts with that lie.

 

For me, I hit almost every single short game shot with my K except short firm, which I hit my 55.12 on. It works very well. My get out of jail shot is to open the K grind up, play it back, and swing hard.

 

So its not really S vs. K. You need to think about how you want to attack the short game - what makes sense to you, and what makes you comfortable. Either one can work great. I think the K is better (I play it) but that's because I have a very steep short game swing, and my miss is the chilli dip - which the K fights). If I was as shallow as I am steep, I'd be extolling the virtues of the L grind. Its all about knowing yourself. You cannot select a good wedge set up without knowing yourself.

 

You have to think about this for yourself, though. An ounce of preparation is worth a pound of cure when it comes to wedges. There's nothing wrong with putting in a few practice sessions and seeing the divots your taking and seeing what your comfortable with (high vs. low, spin vs. height, hooded vs. open, back vs. up, etc...) and THEN making a decision. Even taking note of your divots for a few rounds will make you much better at picking what grind you need.

 

This is a great post that is really helpful. I would add one thing to make note of as well. You should know your divot pattern on full swings and on partial swings. For instance, I am a digger. I take beaver pellets on full swings. I have no idea how my wrists survive the thrashing. I was always under the notion I needed a lot of bounce. So on my gap wedge, which is mostly used for full swings, I went with the F grind. On my 54*, which I generally use from 110 and in I also got the F grind. I tend to get a bit steep on even on 3/4 and half swings. So this is a great grind for me for pitching.

 

However, for whatever reason, I am a bit of a sweeper on delicate chips. Those green side chips where you are 5 to 15 yards off the greens and just want to plop one on the green softly. I have issues with accelerating down through the shot. I tend to sweep on those shots and even get a little handsy. The L grind, to my surprise (and my fitter's) ended up being about perfect for me. It allows me to sweep, take a slower, more delicate, sweeping stroke and kind of scoops right under the ball.

 

So I feel between my 54* F grind and my 58* L grind, I have a really good balance for my game and my swing. If I have a 20 yard pitch and can keep it low and try to get that one hop and spin, I take my 54*. If I am 10 yards off the green and have a delicate downhill pitch/chip, I just kind of sweep it with my 58*. If I am in a firmer bunker, 58* all day long. A fluffy bunker, 54* with the F grind. I have really liked the balance I have found and in Phoenix having multiple grinds with varying levels of bounce can be critical. Every course seemingly has different sand types in the bunker, some courses are playing super firm most of the time while some are a little more lush. It's great having those different grinds and levels of bounce to choose from.