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bulls9999

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  1. You are correct, I know I'm coming from the inside and I do have a strong grip (use Jumbo grips with 4 wraps... Star tacky grips). But I don't think I'm shutting the face much but am hitting from the inside (to out). My fault is a straight push that doesn't draw (lefty so push out to the left), and I hardly worry about the right OOB. But I'm getting anxious that by doing this, I'm giving up working the ball the other way (fade). Hmm....I've really grown accustomed to this big grip (kind of like Bryson) and recently trying some irons at our club or at G.G. has been wierd since it's like holding pencils in my hands, but I still hit them decently...maybe I should take out my old set with standard grips and see if I get better luck at fades. Thanks for the suggestions, you have been spot on regarding striking the ball from the inside and strong grip.
  2. True, also been my anecdotal experience is there is no stead fast rules for comparison between manufacturers, or even between different brands from same manufacturer. But to my point, if you look at the weighting vs flex of Recoil Dart, you can see the weight progression as flex increases (F2/A->F3/R->F4/S) for both 65 Dart and 75 Dart (below). Often see that same scenario for shafts that have A/R/S in 55-65-75 gm offerings (but don't see that weighting in Project X Catalyst between R & S offerings). As said by others above, some manufacturers may get to stronger flexes by other means (that must be difficult/expensive manufacturing process, having a completely different formulation for a stronger flex than a weaker one within the same product line instead of just one/two more wraps of the laminates).
  3. It has always been my experience that iron shaft weight that is solely due to graphite shaft weight (and not from weighted inserts), will play stouter (stiffer?) according to weight because of thicker wall thickness. For instance, a 95-gm Regular plays stouter than > 85-gm Reg > 75-gm Reg > 65-gm Reg. Now I just came across someone who told me that isn't so, "that 'Reg' should all play the same and for instance a 65-gm stiff will play stouter than a 95-Reg". From my experience, I don't think so. Am I wrong? Just puzzled that someone who I thought would know better would say that (unless I'm completely wrong in my experiences). I'm not trying to 'catch someone', but just knocked me off what I have always thought from anecdotal experience trying various weighted shafts. [For instance, I've got a 60-gm Stiff Tensei Pro (boron tip) that I can play as well as my 65-gm Tensei Reg (in my driver), but that's where a lighter weight stiff is compensating for the heavier weight Regular; when I got up into the 75-gm Reg shaft range, my distance falls off].
  4. I never thought of that.... I remember eons ago doing that to tennis rackets....when I played (or tried to play) tennis. Didn't think they still do that. Thanks. I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the suggestion. Matter of fact... Dick's Sporting Goods has exactly that: Prep your racquet for tournament play when you use the Tourna® Mega Wrap Replacement Racquet Grip. The wrap features a PU coating for better tack and aids in dampening vibrations. DESIGN DETAILS PU coating for better feel and maximum tack Meant for replacing the original racquet grip Helps to dampen vibrations 1.5 mm thick https://dks.scene7.com/is/image/GolfGalaxy/19TOUUMGWRPBLXXXXTNN_Blue?qlt=70&wid=1100&fmt=webp
  5. I was thinking of something like that (I should google it, makes someone already makes that)...even my club pro who does fittings said, gee, that's the only thing that's missing from a fitting point of view. I can envision some one-sided sticky/tacky wrap like the old style leather wraps, partially overlapping the previous portion as it spiral wraps to keep it secure. I was thinking of an old standard grip cut off with a razor to just wrap around, but i would have a gap.
  6. I'm sure it affects swing weight, but I have large hands and the jumbo give me a feeling of controlling the club. The skinny standard grips, almost feels like I'm not (can't) hold them firmly.
  7. Just curious if anyone has come up with a way to try irons out that all have standard grips on the various shafts to test. Its difficult to get a good comparison using such thin grips that you're not accustomed to.
  8. Just curious, I used to have a natural slice/fade to my shots (could never draw the ball, even by accident). Now, I'm all draw and I like it, can control it, I'm hitting the ball from the inside somewhere in the 7-9 o'clock position (lefty). Everyone compliments me on 'how well you draw the ball'. Both driver and irons, I can hit shots that go over the left rough/trees and comes back into the fairway; hardly ever gets stuck out there straight on the left side; if I have a problem, its mostly not getting the ball high enough and hit into trees on the left. OK, great, got the draw covered, but now I'm bored of this 1-dimensional play and have been trying to fade the ball at will on the range (to bring it onto the course) and can't do it!! What the heck? I'm wondering if my irons (Callaway Rogue Pro) and driver (Callaway Epic Flash) are just set up with closed faces to protect from hitting slices? Is there such a thing with GI irons or am I just making that up? I'm going to pull out my old Callaway FT Optiplex driver and TM RSI 6-iron (I recall those face are more straightly aligned with the shaft than any other driver or iron i've had in a while and see if that helps promote the fade. Thanks for any comments. Additional thoughts....I'm wondering when I used to fade/slice the ball all the time, I believe I was swinging going over the top. I've since been coming in low from the inside (= draw). So, if I want to fade now, do I have to revert back to over the top on those shots, hitting the ball at 10-11 o'clock (I'm a lefty remember) with an out to in path (that seems like such a weak swing)?
  9. Are Ping hybrids and/or Callaway Superhybrid still available? Also, never bought before from WGX listings, can you pay with Paypal?
  10. Has anyone had any experience with the Recoil 760 ES F3 (Reg) and the Zelos 7 or 8 shafts? When I inquired with Golfworks, the online forum tech rep responded that the Zelos would feel much softer than the Recoil? I found that odd, that even as a soft steel, is has a lower torque, I'd expect it to be flexy, but not more flexy than the Recoil 760 F3?
  11. Since I have size 14 feet (well, 13.5, but no one has those), it's hard to find golf shoes locally so I have to rely on mostly online sources. I like a balance of at least 1 new pair of softspikes and spikeless each year; many of the spikeless are woven and don't hold up well when it's wet (get socks wet), but some are protected. I got the 'white' (look a bit 'off-white') and wondering if I should have gotten the grey. They are really soft leathers (top) and nice and comfy inside. The rounded toe area holds up to my big feet that prefer roomy toe areas. I just got a pair of FootJoy Contour (softspikes) to be found for $99.99 (Carl's Golfland, includes shipping); I've seen the spikeless version for $89.99.
  12. I'm 'IN' .... that driver is so RAD!! (to use a phrase from the '80's).
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