gugamania

I've heard iPad out of China was paid $6 to the manufacturer, $10 for a golf clubhead is overpriced

Count me in please!!!

I play the BBs. These from the pictures are shiny, with bulged out muscle and curvy muscle edge. Definitely custom made, if I see them at the range, I'd call them fake without a doubt.

However, regardless of the number of clubs carried, it is not permissible to assemble a clubhead and shaft carried by the player during the stipulated round. Does that mean the shaft already in the bag of player when he shows up cannot be assembled, regardless of who and where, with another head even the original is broken until the end of round? This would answer my question if playing with 12 clubs 1 shaft and 2 heads is eligible.

The smash factor and its physics always confuse me. http://www.probablegolfinstruction.com/PGI%20Newsletter/news02-12-04.htm Take its formula for example, if you input clubhead weight more than 210 and keep the COR at 0.83, you'll get smash factor greater than 1.50. That's common weight for any club from 3w down, though I know energy is lost for spin. Funny according to the site, if you hit the ball with a 2-ton truck, the sf can pass 1.80. If the sf doesn't matter that much, we should all swing a driver head of 150g with counterweight shaft.

Not at all. I paid 80 bucks for it plus 10 for shipping.

I won a Speeder 869 S on bay, but can't decide if I should have it tip trimmed. I’m gaming an R9 fw with stock motore F1 70S, I hit it fairly high off the tee with 250 carry, not as high off the deck with 240 carry, I consistently hook it 20-30 yards left. 869 is said to have similar feel to 757 but active tip to launch it high, both have 2.5 of parallel tip. Its low torque (2.5) should help me get off the hook. I checked the forum and some say tip the 869 some say don’t. I like high flight, maybe one or two degrees higher than the stock motore, but definitely hate ballooning. I understand

Seems like his muscle is different from the retail version but more like a lefty version TB. No doubt he can hit the BB, but did he really bag them?

I don't see it a problem. I have similar yardages to yours wedge to driver, when I tend to get tight, the full wedges go higher and shorter. 10 yards is big distance for wedges. I pitch 9 iron from 115, pw from 105 and 52 from 95, full wedges only happen in deep rough. Never ever hit a full wedge to steep downhill pin, one groove difference of impact will cost your GIR.

As long as you hit down into the ball, bounce is your friend. It prevents most of clubhead stumble when it doesn't meet the ball first, it gives you more meat in the unknown depth of rough and density of sand. When you have to deal with firm sand, use Treveno's solution-lean your weight toward the target.

I spent a whole afternoon reading and thinking about this thread. I have only one question left: why Taylormade can install the real deal while rest of the companies fail?

It doesn't look good on men, coz reaching on and off from cap implies "headwear", like ear rings, hair clips...which are mostly for women. I bet a few decades ago it's deemed a sissy move. Cap is a symbol of helmet, that's why people take it off after a match, certainly you don't put ornament on a helmet. Of course if you wear ear rings, you won't care.

I shifted from tourny blades to baby blades, noticed most lofts in baby is 1 degree stronger. I didn't know why until I play the baby on course. Because they are small and so easy to dig, I'd likely to hit one groove higher on the face. Good thing is, you feel there are only flyer lie and fairway lie, only fescue can make a big difference; bad thing is, you'd better be more sensitive and be able to adjust your ball flight by soft fairways and hard ones.

I play Miura irons and tried Miura wedges, I found they play lowest bounce. My 60 wedge has 14 bounce and I found it hard when playing dry courses.

3 grams.I guess there's no difference in colors, just the lighter one is thinner with a ridge in the middle.