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Everything posted by golfluvzme

  1. Yeah, I was probably just guessing at the best way...........I should have let the experts handle this. My apologies. LaMont in AZ
  2. If you are truly just looking to get it into "Gamer Shape", I'd say go for it. Naval jelly will remove the rust and you will most definitely see the pitting on all the surfaces. You are right when you think it is never going to be back to showroom new. If a person tried to get it back to showroom smooth, you'd lose a ton of weight. That sole is in a condition that I have seen, recently and as hard as it was, I had to say that sanding the bulk of the pitting and leaving a lot of pitting still in place, was the smart play. You've got the base for a great gamer and I think that going over it with several grits after the naval jelly, then a cold blue or cold black oxide dip will get you a great gamer. Give it your best shot and you'll have the pride of knowing who's sweat is in the finished product. Keep us in pictures and let us know how it is going. LaMont in AZ
  3. In the same vein as the previous poster, I wanted to share what will always be one of the most beautiful putters that I ever saw come out of Byron's shop. When he did his Damascus builds, the finishes were second to none. I will now wonder forever what finish was on those rascals. We can all guess, but that is all most of us can do. They were absolutely stunning. LaMont in AZ
  4. Stu, Did you use a parallel tip Bullseye fluted shaft or the flared model? I know that there is a fairly significant difference in very late flare tips, but it's usually pretty small, when you go back 15-20 years. The new ones have a more drastic taper than the old school Bullseye putters. For a while, I had a really good supply of original Bullseye shafts from the auction that took place when Acushnet moved the Bullseye plant from S. Phoenix to Southern California. I think they lasted me about 6-7 years. Nothing like the feel of those original shafts. Once, I had a friend bring me his Scotty Cameron Classic 2 for some work. At some point, he had decided that a parallel tip shaft was a good switch and his club guy had ground down the flared stub to take a .370 tip "more modern" shaft. It made me cringe, but with some welding and slow/steady work on a belt sander, I was able to save it and leave very little evidence that it had ever been butchered. The mention of a grinding wheel makes me nervous, but if you have faith in the steadiness of your hands, the work is all yours. As to why a putter maker would use the flare tip, its all about the feel. We all know that "feel" is hugely personal, so it will vary from player to player. A lot of the old school players will tell you that there is nothing as pure feeling as the original flare tip or the feel of a Head Speed shaft in an original 8802. I am in that school, so it makes sense to me. New generations seem to look for less torque, more rigidity and who am I to argue. Feel is feel. Blondes or brunettes. Ford or Chevy. All in the same arena, IMHO. Love the topic and hope that it continues to be discussed. LaMont in AZ PS, what about a .355 shaft that has flutes, just like the Bullseye? Would that be a good thing or bad? Not worth a new topic, but what are your thoughts?
  5. Gotcha. If you do wind up sending it back, they will be able to drop that toe by tipping the shaft a little at a time and lowering that bend point. Not sure why they were not able to see how it sits, before they sent it out. Will the toe-up affect how it performs? Only you can be the judge of that and the post that recommended you take it out, roll a hundred putts and see how it does, was spot-on. Sometimes, we have "happy accidents" that wind up being positive changes that we never intended. Keep us in the loop, as you give it a test run. LaMont in AZ
  6. Can I ask what grip is on the putter? Is it the same grip as when they had it in their shop for face-balancing? A lot of builders discount the effect that different grips can have, but I have seen drastic effects from specific grips being installed. Let me know when you can. LaMont in AZ
  7. I was just talking with a customer about my original 007 Club Byron putter, about 30 minutes ago. The story was more about how "out of his way" Byron went to make sure I could own one. The man was a giant in my eyes and will be missed on a daily basis. LaMont in AZ
  8. I received this news, about 4 hours ago and the words have not yet come to describe the loss. He was a friend for the better part of the last 25 years and incredibly, we never met face to face. Byron Morgan did more to influence and impact my world than anyone who is not a blood relative. His work and sheer presence in the putter world will be missed beyond words. Rest in peace, my friend. LaMont in AZ
  9. My 2-cents? If you are thinking of getting in the putter business for the money, you are choosing the wrong business. Competing with the OEM's is going up against advertising budgets that annually dwarf the income of a lot of the smaller "boutique" guys. Some of the guys in the game got involved because of their love of creating something with the hands and doing something that is American made, like TP Mills, John Reuter Jr, and a small handful of guys did, back in the day. Even Byron Morgan was described to me as "a guy who lives at the beach and makes putters. Not in it for the money." There is a plethora of parts that you can make with a greater potential for profit and making a good living, much more so that putters. If I owned a shop, I'd focus on industries that had some of that greater profit margin potential. But, that is another lifetime and about all I can say. LaMont in AZ
  10. Just tossing this in the mix. Your way of measuring here is not really the way that it needs to be, for rules verification. The rules require measuring in a way that follows the bends and angles of the neck, from tip to bottom of the putter. Tad Moore told me that the best way is to use a 5" piece of string and hold it against the neck, itself. That jog at the bottom of the cup, going at a 90* shift to the stem, requires about 1/2" of length of the string. I don't think that the average guy will ever run into a problem, as mentioned. Once you get the aluminum section glued in, what was the loft/lie that was created? That was the hard part with the Knuckle, getting different lie angles required a whole new piece at the top. You are risking snappage if you start to bend on that little stub. Looking forward to hearing how the club sets up, once you dial in the Knuckle and lock it into place. Good on your for giving this a shot! LaMont in AZ
  11. Damn! THAT was a long time ago. I'll admit that I had a ton of help with that mod. I was working at Karas Kustoms, a very cool machine shop in Mesa, AZ. The owner of the shop helped out and did the boring and threading of those pockets, using one of his CNC machines. It turned out pretty amazing and I wish that I had some pix. I need to do some digging. Now days, I steer clear of that sort of work. Thanks for reminding me of a very fun time in my history, LaMont in AZ
  12. Always fun to read threads like this and see it from a different angle. Socrates has been pretty much spot-on with his suggestions and observations, IMHO. LaMont in AZ
  13. Check out the work of Embrace Putters over on Instagram. He should have a few of these conversions in his picture history. Its not cheap, but if you are hard-core Cameron, you might find it worth the time. Best of Luck, LaMont in AZ
  14. All I can add is that I carried a J's 1-iron for a summer, a few years ago. It was a kick in the pants to pull it out and see what I could do. I have forgotten all of the misses, but remember the ones hit sweetly that blew my playing partner's mind. It was a great summer! It is out in the garage, somewhere. Nothing like a true blade 1-iron, ;). LaMont in AZ
  15. PD, You've been busy today with the postings, ;). Your comment is, well, not exactly accurate. Back in the day, big companies like PING made their putters using a casting method of one type, or another. They were quality pieces, all attention was paid to a uniform face and for all intents and purposes, they were among the best putters produced........at the time. But, even during PING's prime years, there were PGA Pros who would take their Ansers to guys they knew in machine shops and have the faces machined flat. Not "flat" in the sense that they removed all loft, but "flat" in a sense of removing any surface imperfections like swells or dips across the face. Believe me, if you have ever machined a classic PING putter, their faces were far from perfectly flat, but for the methods they use, they were as good as could be done. When Karsten would see these putters, knowing that technically if a player was sponsored by PING, the putter was still PING property, he would remove them from the players' possession and have them destroyed. He believed that HIS method was the best and if PING had not milled the face, it was not something he wanted out in the world. Milling the face of a putter creates a flat surface. You can deep mill, tight mill, create designs that are unique or just do what you think is best. But, in the end, an object locked in a vise and passed under a stationary cutter, will create a flat surface. Yes, sound can be changed by the depth of the pattern, the spacing of the cutter marks and a few other tricks, but that is a side benefit. The original guys were looking for a truly flat face and a vertical mill was the tool chosen, IMHO. It is just one Mann's opinion and I hope that you take it as such, not hard cold fact. Thanks for your read, LaMont in AZ
  16. Tad would know best, as he was right in the middle of things when the whole Cooper/Cameron deal with Mizuno was in the air and knows a ton about the state of putters, at that time. I agree that it is a twin for the M400, but I don't believe that Cooper did any of the Mizuno work. That is a story, in itself. Cooper's shop definitely had the capability to do this work and may have done it. As for it being a Giannini, I'd put very limited stock in that. Ken used a lot of Cooper-made heads and once again, there is a story in that. Reach out to Tad and see what he can shed on this one for information, if he has time. He is an encyclopedia of putter knowledge and an absolute treat to talk to. There is a story out there, somewhere. LaMont in AZ
  17. I have a ridiculous amount of paint fill. It ranges from Nail Polish enamels to Testors to Tamiya for their translucent colors. Each has their perfect place, IMHO, but some guys do not agree. I suggest you try these and don't be afraid to experiment with some brands that may seem odd to you. Trying new things and sharing here is the absolute best way for the community to learn of ways that might be hiding from us. Post pix if you have any examples of new efforts. Best of luck, LaMont in AZ
  18. Yes, oil on the surface from routine maintenance will definitely have an effect. I have had letters completely fall out, due to lack of thorough cleaning, prior to applying the paint fill. It was not a fun exchange to have...........the gentleman who's putter it was, had taken delivery in Singapore, . Prep is key, but this just seems to be more of a product issue, to some degree. Paint fill that is already in place and just not holding up on the surface. I could be wrong, no doubt about that. Any and all ideas contribute to finding the culprit. LaMont in AZ
  19. I've picked up a few colors of this: https://alpha6corporation.com/alphanamel/ Always looking for something that gives a guy an edge. Not sure if this brand will be the answer, but it has a solid reputation in the pinstriping world and a local paint shop carries a bunch of colors. Worth a look. I have to ask, what are you using to clean your putter that makes ANY of the paint fill come off? I've been in this crazy game for a while and soapy water has never been an issue with cleaning a club. We all do things differently, but you shouldn't ever have an issue with fill by simply cleaning your clubs after a round or two. Just one Mann's opinion, LaMont in AZ
  20. For the readers' benefit, what make and model of putter are you hoping to weld-in the line and then clean it off? That makes a HUGE difference in anybody's willingness to attempt this work. Anser-style putters that have some radius in the top of the flange area are extremely challenging to work on and if they are cast.......nearly impossible. Remember, you are not just milling away the excess weld, you are trying to blend the entire surface of the flange to look "normal". The difference even between a Newport and a Newport 2 is night and day with regards to this sort of work. One has a flat flange, the other is radiused on a similar plane to the sole. Machining on that exact same radius is nearly impossible and the time/cost involved, along with the risk of it going south, is seldom worth taking on the job. As for the smoothing of the sole, this sort of work has caused more than one customizer to be drug over the coals by Cameronites and other factions that claim the goal was to create a counterfeit tour putter. A lot of the current custom shops will turn that down. I don't blame them a bit in today's world where you can do one thing and get drawn and quartered for just fulfilling a customer's wishes. In the end, most times it is cheaper to seek out the putter that already has the alignment aids or lack of aids and a smooth sole, buy it and enjoy the work. Just one Mann's opinion, LaMont in AZ
  21. Back in the late '90's, you would have had something special, except for that face engraving. At one point in time, the "Pat Pend" marked Anser 2's and to somewhat a lesser extent Anser 4's, were a cool piece for collectors. Bobby Grace had a good market for them overseas in Europe and Asia. He actually ran an ad in Golf Digest, small classified ad in the back of the magazines. He was paying $175-275 for these putters, depending upon what material they were and condition of the putter. Now days, the value is whatever you can get. $20-50 for one of these is a reasonable expectation. With the face engraving on yours, it will take a hit unless you find someone who participated in that event and wants to grab a classic souvenir. Very solid putters and much lighter than today's samples, for the most part. Best of luck with whatever you choose to do with that rascal. LaMont in AZ
  22. Take a nickel from your pocket and set it on the face. If there is any face showing above or below the nickel, it is a remake. Great looking putter, no matter if it is old or not. You did good at that price, holy cow! LaMont in AZ
  23. This, to some extent is a Ford vs Chevy topic. Some guys feel that a long first step on a stepless shaft gives a little "softer feel" and for that reason, either they love them or do not. Other guys feel that a stepless steel shaft has a firmer feel and for that reason, they love them, or not. My opinion? It is personal preference, 100%. I have guys tell me that they don't like to see the steps when they look down at their putter at address. The devil in me says, "if you're looking at the shaft, you've already decreased your chances of making the putt." But, the visual is real to them and with the availability of both styles, play what you are comfortable with. I prefer the feel of a little softer shaft in my putter. Karsten used the 12" first step in his Anser putters for a reason. I use them a lot in my own putters. SIDENOTE: How about fluted tip shafts, versus smooth? I've come into a stash of fluted tip .355 putter shafts that are the same as Scotty used in a lot of his Classic I's. I've tried that shaft and love the feel, also. Mechanically, my opinion is that a stepless steel shaft tends to run a little firmer, in most cases. Is the stepless look cleaner? That's a personal preference item, also. So, I've muddied the waters a little more with my rambling and please remember it is only my opinion. The black shafts look pretty sinister and I love the look. Black Chrome, matte black, satin black and all of the rest definitely add a little snap to a good build. For a show putter, I don't think there is a quicker way to change the look. Post some pics of what you decide and we'll chime in. Have a great week! LaMont in AZ
  24. KJ, This was always touted as an original Scotty design, love it or hate it. However, it was actually a design by Terry McCabe that got shelved for several years, until Scotty came under contract with Titleist and needed to show "an original design". The McCabe version had never been promoted and was unique enough to really fit the part. I have seen the McCabe version and there were a couple differences, but the raw design was easily seen as the same putter. The biggest difference was the use of a flat section of a disc as a backweight on McCabe's version, where Scotty used that round bar, formed in an arc. Other than that, it was the same putter. I will try to get you some pix of the McCabe version, as there is one local to me that was a gamer for a few years. The putter always had a bit of a ring to it, at impact that was not very pleasant to MY ears. Other golfers loved the sound and had no issues putting great with this wand. I think the only drawback came when you got one that had the shaft slightly misaligned and the head would fall shut or open, at address. Design-wise, I love the fact that it is not just another Anser copy. If you have a chance to pick one up at a decent price, I believe that you'd be missing out if you didn't give it a try. Just one Mann's opinion, LaMont in AZ
  25. In all honesty, with the part that is broken being cast in a metal that is unknown, the fix would exceed the cost of buying a replacement. Putters made overseas have a fairly loose rein on materials used in casting and it can get totally random. Not saying that this is strictly an overseas practice, either. Back in the day, some of the OEM putters were cast in so many different foundries that NOBODY could guarantee what a specific putter might be made of. I learned this the hard way. Find a replacement, purchase it and count the cost as the tuition for learning a lesson of what NOT to do with a putter. One Mann's opinion, LaMont in AZ
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