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  1. Looking for a kiyoshi gold or purple 75 04 stiff. Needs to be at least 41” long and tipped 1/2” or less.
  2. It’s probably more than 6 grams in the short irons and less in the long irons. With ascending weight shafts the longest iron is the lightest weight and they get heavier as they get down to the wedge shafts. The cfs are a constant weight all the way thru the set. So your short irons are going to be heavier to start with plus the cushin insert. I’m not sure how much of a jump in weight it is for the original but you are probably looking at >10 grams static weight difference. That’s quite noticeable for most.
  3. For those that have had this failure is the hosel where it’s inserted in the head moving enough you can feel play in or or see it moving? Or is it just a rattle?
  4. I have been only playing the 115cw for a few weeks but here are my initial thoughts. From a static weight perspective they feel very close to KBS tour 120s for me. If you look at it from cut weight it makes sense. 115cw has a raw weight of 115 grams and raw length of 36.5. KBS tour has a raw weight of 120 (but they are usually in the 117-118 range) with a raw length of 37.5. So you are gaining a little over 3 grams on cut weight from the KBS and 1.5 grams from the modus which has a 37" raw length. I have been playing Modus 105 for the last couple years and always struggled with
  5. I am the rare exception here and play plain old stiff shafts. The BB 83 was 78 grams. It looks the the 757s suggested earlier are a good match for weight and the AV raw Blue is 77 grams and should be a really good match. Probably going to try the AV raw blue first and see how it works. I appreciate all the suggestions.
  6. Anyone have any recommendations for a modern day version of the Blueboard 83? I know there are a million blue profiles out there but they seem to all be lower 70s gram or mid 80s. Was curious if anyone had found something similar in the high 70s.
  7. Thanks for looking. Mizuno 921 Forged 5-g, heads only. Standard loft and lie. Some bag chatter and some wear on the faces. 8 iron is missing a little paint fill. I tried to price accordingly. Tried to get an extreme up close of the wedge as it has the most wear. $625 shipped and Paypaled CONUS
  8. These are the 2.0 stealths and they still have a little bit of the last bottom shelf. I haven’t measured to see exactly how much. did they go away from it with the 3.0?
  9. Thank you. I’ve only got 2 wedges to install and I’ve got the correct ferrule to ensure the fit at the top of the hosel is tight. I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t going to ruin the shafts by shaving down the last 1/4”
  10. I have installed quite a few sets of Pings but never with graphite. I’ve read that to get the graphite to seat properly you need to sand the last 1/8-1/4” of the shaft. With the way steelfibers are made it seems like you would remove the Steelfiber part if you did that. Would you still sand it down or install above the recessed part?
  11. I credit GG for helping me find this site and learning how to build golf clubs. The first expensive golf shaft I ever bought was installed at GG (Fuji Rombax) and the head came flying off on the second hole. I believe I found this site that night.
  12. For me, The short irons play slightly stiffer. The long irons play slightly softer and the mid irons play the same as the KBS.
  13. Anybody find any other aftermarket head covers that actually fit this putter? I have had mine going on 2 months now and I love everything about it but the headcover.
  14. The o-ring holds the screw in the head when you remove the head from the shaft. You should be able to look in the hosel and tell if it is still in place. If not you will want to put it in and make sure it grabs the screw.
  15. For me the $taper feels a little firmer. Doesn’t feel like it has quite the same kick.
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