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grochol17

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  1. I have a couple of specific practice clubs... When I'm working on my swing I like to practice with a mid (5, 6, or 7) iron. A while back I was practicing a lot at a course in FL on a grass range with very sandy soil and I didn't want to wear out the face on my gamers, so I bought a 6-iron to use just for those working on my swing practice sessions. I made sure the specs matched my normal irons so it wasn't like I was swinging a completely different club. Also, if I'm working on bunker shots, I'll take along a retired version of the wedges I'm using. That way I don't go through wedges nearly as quickly and keep the wedges for the course fresh. Again, the specs on my practice wedge matches the specs on the one in my bag.
  2. Technically, yes, but it depends on how much you are changing the spin rate and how much the spin axis is tilted. For example, just using the defaults on the trajectory optimizer for everything except spin and spin axis tilt I get the following for 137 mph ball speed and 11* launch: 2500 RPM, 15* tilt = 10 yd offline 3500 RPM, 15* tilt = 11.6 yd offline 2500 RPM, 45* tilt = 26.7 yd offline 3500 RPM, 45* tilt = 31 yd offline I did a quick check of 160 mph ball speed and 14* launch and while the yards off line increases since a ball that flies further can go further offline, the difference between the low and high spin examples was the same as for the default ball speed. I don't think you can quite get to a 1000 RPM spin difference just by changing balls (I seem to recall 700-800 RPMs being more reasonable), but I picked it to be on the extreme end of things. If you're hitting something like a strong draw/fade (the 15* tilt), the lower spin option isn't saving you a lot, but I guess the 1.6 yds could mean the difference between the fairway and rough, assuming you're playing for that ball flight and have aimed appropriately to one side or the other. For the 45* tilt option, 4.3 yds could be pretty significant, but that kind of tilt and amount offline means you've hit a duck hook or banana slice and I don't think that picking a golf ball to take 4 yds off of your duck hook is the way to go.
  3. The way people talk about backspin and side spin makes them sound like two different things, but in reality the ball only spins on one axis so there's really only a single value for the spin on a golf ball. Ideally the spin axis would not have any left or right tilt so that all of the spin is only what we would call backspin and the ball would fly in a straight line. When the club face is pointed offline the spin axis then tilts left or right, which causes the ball to curve. Because of the tilt in the spin axis a fraction of the total spin on the ball is contributing to the left or right movement and this contribution is what we call side spin. In relation to your question, how much the ball travels off line depends on the total spin and the spin axis tilt. If you hit two shots with 2700 RPMs, but one has more spin axis tilt than the other, it will curve more. If you hit two shots with the same spin axis tilt, but one has 2700 RPMs while the other is spinning at 3000 RPMs, the one at 3000 RPMs will curve more (assuming the tilt has a value other than zero). This is because the same spin axis tilt causes the same *fraction* of the total spin to contribute to the side spin, but since the total spin on the one shot is higher, it will have a larger *value* for the side spin. For example, lets say 10% of the total goes into side spin, then the shot with 2700 RPMs total spin will have 270 RPMs side spin and the 3000 RPM total spin will have 300 RPMs side spin. So, then the question is, will the extra side spin really matter? The flightscope trajectory optimizer will let you play around with different numbers for total spin and spin axis tilt and see how much of a difference the extra 300 RPMs total spin might make on your drives. edit to include the link to the trajectory optimizer: https://trajectory.flightscope.com/
  4. I don't play T100S, but my 9 iron loft is 43* and from there down I'm at 47* (PW), 53* (SW), and 58* (LW). The gaps at the very end might be a bit larger than they should be, but I don't want to drop something from the top of my bag to add another wedge.
  5. I always have to scratch my head at comments telling you what you should change without first clarifying what you have... You say that you were fitted into your driver and 3 wood... do you know what the specs are on those two clubs? Particularly the playing length, swingweight, and shaft (model, weight, and flex) would be useful to know. The reason I ask about the specs is that a few people are just blindly telling you to go lighter, but one of the stock options for the B21 driver is a 45g shaft, so if that's what you've already got then you probably can't find a lighter shaft than that. And if, for example, your driver has 45g shaft, but your 3 wood has a 75g shaft that could indicate that your driver is too light and throwing off the timing of your swing, resulting in lower driver swing speed. On a related note, when you were fit, did you have the same issue with clubhead speed being the same between the two clubs?
  6. Yeah... if they've overseeded with rye it is going to be a very different playing surface than bermuda. On the courses I grew up playing in the Tampa area I often found that the rye was "sticky" at times and a wedge could get caught up in the grass while chipping.
  7. Whether or not the new tech will make a difference depends on your swing... not a lot has changed since last year, so if a year ago a fitter said you were good with what you had, I'd stick with it. And use the money you didn't spend on irons to play more golf.
  8. I went from a 15* 915 Fd to a 15* TS3 (not the TSi) with the same shaft. If I recall correctly the TS3 is slightly faster, slightly more forgiving, slightly higher launch, and slightly lower spin. As a result I'm getting a couple more yards out of it, but nothing huge. I mostly made the switch because I fight high spin, so even a few hundred RPMs dropped is useful for me.
  9. There is no such thing as a left- or right-handed shaft, but there are left- and right-handed adapters. It might vary a bit from one company to the other, but generally whatever the adjustment is for one, it is opposite for the other. So, for example, if you have a right-handed adapter and stick it in a left-handed club, the +1 for righties will be -1 for you and vice-versa. The best thing to do would be to look on Cobra's website and see if they have a guide for how to use the "wrong" adapter for your club.
  10. Changing the weight of the grip fools the swingweight scale into giving you a different number because the balance point is about 14" down the shaft. Since you hold the grip in your hands it isn't going to change the swingweight that you feel when you swing the club, but the overall weight of the club will change. A better comparison to what the op is asking is if you slap enough lead tape on the head between shots to raise the swingweight 3 points. Clearly this is going to vary from person to person, but I'd venture to guess that if you put that much weight onto a clubhead many people are going to notice the change when they swing. Whether or not it makes a difference to their game will depend again on the golfer.
  11. The lucky 7 deal says "no upcharge for milled wedges - no limit" so my read is that you could get 7 different wedges if you wanted to. Taking that a step further, that means they may consider the 58/07 and 58/09 different clubs, so you could get both. If you want a high bounce 58, I'd recommend getting the 56/10 and bending it 2* weak, giving you a 58/12 since, in my opinion, 9* is not high bounce by any means. But if you are really wanting a low bounce 58, then going 60/07 to 58/05 makes sense. I've never played on desert courses, but I'm guessing that you wear out a lot of wedges because of the sand, so stocking on up wedges would be a good use of the "extra" clubs you get. Otherwise I'd say just talk to the fitter and see what they recommend and do a little experimenting to see if you come across something that works surprisingly well.
  12. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are suggesting, but just going to a lighter grip is only fooling the swingweight scale to make the swingweight look normal. Since you hold the grip (and not 14" down the shaft like the balance point for the scale) you're not really feeling the way the weight of the grip changes the balance of the club. Plus, if you cut it down then put on a lightweight grip, you're significantly lowering the total weight of the club, giving it a completely different feel.
  13. I'm assuming you don't necessarily mean a rich person, just someone that spends a lot of money trying to look like a player, but has no actual game. They do exist, but in my experience they are less common than they used to be. Growing up (more years ago than I want to think about) playing and working at a muni in Florida I remember a fair number of guys with brand new outfits and names on their staff bags that would top it off the first tee. Now I rarely see people with names on their bags. One guy I play with that has his name on his stand bag used to play professionally and there are few other guys that are former military... they all seem to be buddies with equipment reps, so I'm guessing that's why they get bags with their names on them. The main posing that I see is from people playing off the wrong tees, but even that seems to be less common than it used to be.
  14. There are two versions of the green... the Hulk and the regular version, which no one calls "Bruce Banner," but totally should. This thread has a discussion of the difference between the two: For what it is worth, I've got the Green 70g 6.0 and don't find that it feels particularly stiff. It is similar to, but feels smoother than my Aldila NV green 75 S that I swap out from time to time. As for the blue, I've never hit it so I can't compare the two.
  15. This is pretty much my setup, but I call my 43* club a 9 iron...
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