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Hasone33

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  1. Can anyone with some experience with KBS Shafts tell me more about these iron shafts? I attached a picture of the serial number & model number of 4 iron shaft and the KBS Label I havent seen this type of label before. They are .355 Taper tip. I took them in on a trade, story was they came from a mini tour player 5-10 years back? I weighed the 4 iron shaft pull and at cut standard length, it weighs 118 grams. Thanks in advance
  2. Looking for a set of Nippon Modus 130 Pulls in stiff or regular 3-pw or 4-pw. Would also entertain some in a players CB Thanks in advance
  3. Interested in J15s but have a question on the lengths. Is there any reason while some of the irons are in .25 increments and others at .5 give or take instead of all being the same length increments? Just curious Thanks
  4. Thanks for those that chimed in. I think I am going to try Stuarts suggestion of trying the driver shaft tipped 1/2" first and go more if needed. I think I am going to stay with the 7x though in driver also. Thanks again
  5. I have a TM M5 Driver head. I want to match same specs as my 3 wood. My 3 Wood is 2016 M2 and is a glue in head shafted w/ a Graphite Design ADDI 7X Tipped 1". The spin rate is super low with a boring launch with this M2 / ADDI Combo. I understand I could get another ADDI 7X and tip it 1" but was wondering about the aspect of glue in head vs in a TM Tip and also the difference of tipping in a fairway wood vs a driver as most fairway woods are designed to be tipped. The shaft I have in my driver now is a Kurokage Silver TINI 60X which is good but want the same spin rate and boring trajector
  6. I ended up cutting them off. Thanks for the input.
  7. I have some steelfibers with 3/4" extensions that I want to remove. Will heating up with a heat gun damage the shafts or is it best to cut them off? Thanks for looking
  8. Anyone played both of these shafts? I am currently gaming C-Taper S+ 125s and love the low spin and trajectory but the harshness and weight are taking their toll on me as I am getting older. These seem very hard to play in between shots too. I have played the Steelfiber 110 Stiff prior and regretting getting rid of them, as the feel is phenomenal. I am looking for feel, low spin and mid launch and tight dispersion (I guess we are all though). I also play in the wind quite a bit, so that is a factor but the Steelfibers seem to do well in the wind, the $ Tapers? Thanks for looking
  9. > @"Howard Jones" said: > Stuart is spot on, but let me add the small "conclusions" he left out, but they are there for the one who reads and understand.... > > When we try to make 2 clubs or shafts to play end feel the same, its really ONLY about the shaft left ABOVE the hosel..... > We do all that math with hosel specs to figure out, but what we really wants to know, is whats left ABOVE the hosel, since thats the only part of the shaft that can flex. > > Imagine this scenario. > We want to build 2 drivers, both to 44.40" using the same shafts, and heads with
  10. > @Stuart_G said: > The technically correct approach is to adjust how much tipping is done based on > 1) the difference in head weights ~1/2" for each extra 10 gm of head weight > and > 2) the difference in BBGM between the two heads > > Bore depth can also play a part but typically are not different enough to worry about between std bore head. > > BUT - it's not always that simple. Generally people will want to use a heavier shaft in the 3wd than the driver (or lighter shaft in the driver compared with the fairways). Typically 5 gm per inch difference
  11. > @Kale_m said: > Try a ad-di 6x tipped 1/2” Kale, I see you have the tensei pro orange tx which is on my radar for driver shaft. Do you feel if they are tipped same amount that they play equal in flex ? I was thinking a tensei pro orange 60tx from TM where they tip 1" would be perfect.
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