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Hasone33

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  1. SOLD New Callaway Tour Issue TCB Iron Set. (The 8 iron has hit 4 Balls, no other club hit) 3-PW Tour Issue X-100 (Soft stepped Once) Standard Length & Loft & 1 Degree Upright Free Shipping in Cont US Paypal is [email protected] $1400 $1350 $1275 SOLD
  2. Can anyone with some experience with KBS Shafts tell me more about these iron shafts? I attached a picture of the serial number & model number of 4 iron shaft and the KBS Label I havent seen this type of label before. They are .355 Taper tip. I took them in on a trade, story was they came from a mini tour player 5-10 years back? I weighed the 4 iron shaft pull and at cut standard length, it weighs 118 grams. Thanks in advance
  3. Interested in J15s but have a question on the lengths. Is there any reason while some of the irons are in .25 increments and others at .5 give or take instead of all being the same length increments? Just curious Thanks
  4. Thanks for those that chimed in. I think I am going to try Stuarts suggestion of trying the driver shaft tipped 1/2" first and go more if needed. I think I am going to stay with the 7x though in driver also. Thanks again
  5. I have a TM M5 Driver head. I want to match same specs as my 3 wood. My 3 Wood is 2016 M2 and is a glue in head shafted w/ a Graphite Design ADDI 7X Tipped 1". The spin rate is super low with a boring launch with this M2 / ADDI Combo. I understand I could get another ADDI 7X and tip it 1" but was wondering about the aspect of glue in head vs in a TM Tip and also the difference of tipping in a fairway wood vs a driver as most fairway woods are designed to be tipped. The shaft I have in my driver now is a Kurokage Silver TINI 60X which is good but want the same spin rate and boring trajectory as 3 wood Thanks for looking and interested to here the forums thoughts. Thanks in advance Jason
  6. I ended up cutting them off. Thanks for the input.
  7. I have some steelfibers with 3/4" extensions that I want to remove. Will heating up with a heat gun damage the shafts or is it best to cut them off? Thanks for looking
  8. Anyone played both of these shafts? I am currently gaming C-Taper S+ 125s and love the low spin and trajectory but the harshness and weight are taking their toll on me as I am getting older. These seem very hard to play in between shots too. I have played the Steelfiber 110 Stiff prior and regretting getting rid of them, as the feel is phenomenal. I am looking for feel, low spin and mid launch and tight dispersion (I guess we are all though). I also play in the wind quite a bit, so that is a factor but the Steelfibers seem to do well in the wind, the $ Tapers? Thanks for looking
  9. > @"Howard Jones" said: > Stuart is spot on, but let me add the small "conclusions" he left out, but they are there for the one who reads and understand.... > > When we try to make 2 clubs or shafts to play end feel the same, its really ONLY about the shaft left ABOVE the hosel..... > We do all that math with hosel specs to figure out, but what we really wants to know, is whats left ABOVE the hosel, since thats the only part of the shaft that can flex. > > Imagine this scenario. > We want to build 2 drivers, both to 44.40" using the same shafts, and heads with the same head weight, but very different hosel specs... > Club head 1 has a BBGM of 1.0 inch, and a insert of 1.5 inch (total hosel = 2.50") > Club head 2 has a BBGM of 1.5 inch and a insert of 1.0 inch (total hosel is still 2.50") > To make this 2 club to play as the same club, we have to TIP trim the shaft for club head #2 with 0.5 inch. > Then the shaft above the hosel that can flex becomes the same between this 2 heads, and 1.0 inch as insert is all we need, so it does not matter how deep it is, its whats ABOVE the hosel that matters, but we do the numbers so we know how to compensate and make them equal ABOVE the hosel. > > What happens if we DONT compensate for this? > Like Stuart already have written, the general guideline from most shaft companies is to tip trim 0.5" for each 10 grams added (driver to 3W or 3W to 5W), so if we dont, we soft or hard step equal to "1 Wood". Thats the way we should judge this, NOT by CPM measurements, then we mess it up since most graphite woods only respond with 1 CPM for each 2/8", so 0.5" only get us 2 CPM stronger, while 10 grams is above 5 SWP on a wood and by that a tad more than 5 CPMs.... > We simply CANT compare flex slope on woods like we do on irons, so even when we use the same shaft model and flex for 2 woods like 3W and 5W and follow tip trim instructions, the 5W would measure as we went softer, but thats how this shafts is, and how it should be. If we think the CPM reader and the "chart on the wall" is the way to go, we would need to tip trim 1.25" between woods instead of 0.5" but that would NOT feel like the same flex at all, because the feel respond is progressive, the first half inch dont feel much stronger, while the next one does, even if the CPM reader say the progression is still only 2/8" for the second 0.5".... > > That was the tip side of the shaft, now the BUTT.... > If the head has a LOW BBGM like some woods have, we would use more of the shafts original butt section, and that part is ALWAYS the stiffest part, but in general we see that LOW launch profiles might go softer or "stay in flex" when the butt section becomes longer, while HIGH launch profiles most often go stronger when we go longer butt side. > > That means if we use the same shaft for driver and 3W, and that 3W has a BBGM thats way lower that the driver, depending on shaft profile and how we want that 3W to play, we should consider NO tip trim because of the longer butt section, and exchange it for more tip length....thats often a good solution for players who want the little extra help to launch a 3W from the fairway since softer means more dynamic loft added at impact. > > My own Woods is "soft-stepped" this way, and for this reason, so ive compensated vs driver hosel specs into woods, using a similar profile all the way, and 5 grams uncut shaft wgt plus 10 grams head wgt is a good rule of thumb for woods (total 15 grams pr inch) > (Grafalloy PL AXIS RED 61 grams - Grafalloy TOUR 65 grams- Project X Tour Issue (Blue) 70 grams) > > Thank you Howard for your detailed answer and information
  10. > @Stuart_G said: > The technically correct approach is to adjust how much tipping is done based on > 1) the difference in head weights ~1/2" for each extra 10 gm of head weight > and > 2) the difference in BBGM between the two heads > > Bore depth can also play a part but typically are not different enough to worry about between std bore head. > > BUT - it's not always that simple. Generally people will want to use a heavier shaft in the 3wd than the driver (or lighter shaft in the driver compared with the fairways). Typically 5 gm per inch difference in playing length. And changing weight can result in a different profile even for the same model shaft. Also, some people have different swings between the fairways and driver - and that can effect the results as well. > > So generally the best approach is to approach the question of what shaft and what tipping as more independent fittings with the driver and fairway than try to use one to make final decisions on the other. The relationship can be used as a starting place in the fitting process but one shouldn't really depend on it to much for the final build. Stuart, I play the driver at 44.5" and the 3 wd at 42.5" Are you saying since the 3 wd is shorter than standard it would play stiffer with same weight head at 43"? The 2016 m2 3 wd that is glue in hosel and not a tip is what got me thinking that I would have to tip the driver shaft at least the same amount as the 3 wood shaft. To me the same shaft tipped 1" would play stiffer in a glue in hosel vs in a tip? Thanks or chiming in
  11. > @Kale_m said: > Try a ad-di 6x tipped 1/2” Kale, I see you have the tensei pro orange tx which is on my radar for driver shaft. Do you feel if they are tipped same amount that they play equal in flex ? I was thinking a tensei pro orange 60tx from TM where they tip 1" would be perfect.
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