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  1. Follow Dallas Steve’s advice. You want to step drill it.
  2. taki27

    Freeze it.

    Too bad an auto body guy couldn’t chime in. I would drill a hole in the dent and put a screw in it and pull on the screw to pull the dent out. Send me a PM with your address and I will mail you a couple of pins to plug the hole.
  3. I agree with you. I think that someone took a piece of advice on one of the golf forums and completely took it the wrong way. My guess is it is a failed backweighting,counterbalancing experiment, rather than a trick the swing weight scale experiment.
  4. If you really want to give this a try, you have to get a higher lofted driver. At 30something inches, a lower lofted driver is going to fly at head level
  5. I’m with Stu I this one. 36-37 is almost impossible. I would think you can Frankenstein a 40 inch driver. You may be able to pull it off with a slightly heavier shaft that can be trimmed for a 7 or 9 wood. Otherwise, I like Stu’s idea of boring it out to a .370 and using an iron shaft.
  6. That shaft pops up fairly often on EBay
  7. Harrison was a relatively big shaft company from 1995-2010. They were huge in Long Drive and then trickled down, sort of like Penley. They had a number of shafts in different weights and different torques.
  8. I think you may be combining different shafts. Harrison made a navy blue 2.5 UL shaft, a yellow/blue and blue/yellow 2.5 Titanium (for years that was their premium shaft) and also made a yellow Low Launch shaft (a mid level shaft). All were very good, except for the paint job, that paint faded pretty quickly.
  9. Most of the “Pro” models have flatter lie adjustments, but I don’t think you will get close to as flat as you can bend that Wishon. Wishon just came out with a new driver, the 519 SHPR or something like that.
  10. IIRC, .5 for 3 wood, 1.0 for 5 wood for the softer flex. 1.0 for the driver, 1.5 for 3 wood and 2.0 for 5 wood for the stronger flex. Harrison made great shafts in the late 90s and early 2000s.
  11. Do NOT heat the shaft. It’s unnecessary and can only cause issues. You can likely push out or drill out the tip weight. If it is brass, then follow Stuart’s directions
  12. Any chance you would sell the Talamonti only? Not interested in the LTD, but would consider trying out the Talamonti
  13. I would just move up to the Cobra F8s (or even the F7s). You can get them fairly cheaply and the shafts you have for your Fly-Zs would work in the F8s (though they have 2 different wrenches). i love the rails on them. For me their was a big difference between the F6 (without rails) and the F7/8 that have rails.
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