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Bella Woods

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  1. Hope you and Dee have a great summer Charley......
  2. They could "create" a tiered handicap system, one for modern complying clubs and one for non-complying clubs (maybe broken down by vintage, hickory etc). If they try to marginalize the people that want to play clubs other than the newest ones, they are asking for trouble.......
  3. Oil based - I have always preferred it over water based, personal preference I guess....
  4. Robert - me too. Always dipped with Golfworks Oil Modified Poly as well. The finish would yellow over time, but if not a white insert or decals/stampings I liked that look. Especially on Mac 693's. Now i spray everything too. Believe it or not, my last can of the Golfworks Oil Modified Poly lasted up until about 5 years ago. I had put what I had left in an old glass (large one) spaghetti sauce container and it lasted forever......... I probably bought it around the year 2001...... Always keep it out of daylight and in room temp and closed up asap after dipping.
  5. Spalding Model 113 Robert T. Jones, Jr. woods were produced between 1948 and 1952, I would say they are 1951 or 1952 because of the style of grip. The faces of the woods were originally black as you suspected. Edit: Look at that "Percussion Weighted" weight........
  6. James the Hogan Fan Regarding your question on refinishing the wood........ Use a stripper to take off whatever finish you can (the paint/poly etc), then sand lightly enough to take off any excess removing as little wood as possible. It won't matter in the end if some paint/ stain is still in the pores of the wood. Stain the wood as if you were going to refinish it in the normal fashion without painting a final black coat on it. It doesn't really matter what color stain but normally some form of brown stain would be used (like brown mahogany or something like it). You need to apply a w
  7. James the Hogan Fan Just realized I pretty much hijacked your thread. Sorry, I didn't mean to. I should have started a separate thread.......
  8. Very true that original parts count a lot when restoring anything, especially old classic woods. The way the "dry" decal system works with white decals is pretty ingenious. First you take an image or pic of the decal and get it into your software program (I use Corel Paint Shop Pro). I just use my phone for the pics. As I stated earlier it usually takes me a few hours to clean/tighten up the image digitally, I am sure many would be faster than me doing that. I blow it up and clean up the image pixel by pixel, especially the edges. Then size the image to what you want and save it. You basic
  9. wkuo3 Yes technology is different now. I wanted them made in the old way back then, with varnish. That method was some of the reason for the high cost. I can now take a picture of any decal (or image of one) and make it also - but it won't be like what I wanted then. It usually takes me anywhere from an hour and a half to 3 hours to fine tune the image digitally prior to printing. The dry decal system is then used to make it a reality. Do the fancy printers in your kids lab print white ink? I would be interested to know. Because without the ability to print an image with the color white
  10. About 15 years ago I approached between 20 and 30 printers about the possibility of making some golf club decals (the old fashion way - varnish, print, molds etc) for me (specifically PowerBilt and Ben Hogan decals). Only one was even willing to try it. He wanted $400 per custom mold he built, and considered 1,000,000 a minimum amount for an order - of only one type of decal..... I think it was about $8,000 to $10,000 total - about 1 penny per decal after set up. I am going from memory but it was a lot of money for one style decal - and more than you could ever use, sell or give away. Volume
  11. deejaid That make sense, he is doing it the "old fashioned" way. The old golf club decals were reversed images too and so were piano decals. Some of the old piano decals were literally works of art and you see the originals pop up for sale now and then. So the clear seal must be acting as the transfer agent..... I still have some of the old reversed golf club decals, I think they quit making them this way at some point in the 1960s or so. Color laser printer is a must to make it happen now. It's good to see someone doing this today still. The main problem with recreating the golf club de
  12. deejaid You will need more than the printer and the paper. The reason the old "water slide"decals worked with the paper was because they were actually micro thin layers of varnish. A layer of varnish would be blown into a mold, then the print and a couple of more layers of varnish on top. So the old decals are actually 3 very thin layers of varnish containing the print. That is why they slide off the paper. Print will not slide off the paper by itself (and unless its a laser printer, the ink will dissolve and bleed all over in water), you need a transfer mechanism........ I'm not sure w
  13. I will send you some persimmon blanks as well and you can go to town on them....... Edit: I just saw your PS above regarding the paper. The paper is designed to absorb water through the bottom side and release the contained image fixed on the top of the paper. No film will be released carrying the ink - the ink has to have a transfer agent.
  14. Near the end of the 1990s with metal woods pretty much the name of the game, the sale of (new) supplies started to dwindle until they were no more. It really started long before this. Those of us that new this "stocked up" where we could (decals, whipping, inserts ferrules, persimmon blanks etc), Its not fair - just the way it happened. If the persimmon woods were to make a comeback, you can bet the supplies would too. BTW, most decals or vulcanized fiber you can buy, or will ever see, were manufactured many years before the demise of the availability of these products. They were a lost ar
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