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  1. Mizuno MP 29’s and Mp 33’s. Thinking of putting the MP 14’s back into the bag to play but just hit the 33’s well.
  2. This works for graphite shafts too BTW. I have regular flex shafts in my blades And use graphite in the wedges too just one flex stronger and butt cut to wedge length. BUTT.... I have found that the shaft weight has to be heavier ( 80 gram wedge shaft aint cuttin ot with me) so I ended up with heavier weight wedge shafts in stronger flex. Easy to flight wedges down. More spin too!
  3. Have a few GD Nano reloaded.... great shafts! They do have a little kick at impact but are stable and smooth. I have actually pulled a few older YS shafts from older clubheads bought off the bay and they work fine. Usually pull a driver shaft and tip it and install and butt trim as needed.
  4. It can be both. if you have a “raw” shaft.... ie one that is not cut ( butt cut or tip trimmed) it can be measured in that state then tip trimmed ( 1/2 inches for 3 wood or one inch for a Five wood for example). Lets say I have a Graphite design ys-6.... I do .... in brand new raw uncut condition. I want to put it into a adaptor and Play it at 41 inches for a five wood...If the raw shaft length is 46, I will tip trim per manufacturer specs for said wood, then epoxy on the adapter. Once the epoxy has cured ( 24 hours to be safe .... wont go into using quick setting/ curing club building
  5. Anyone have info on these ? I posted similar topic without replies. Building a set with these for my Dad. Need to know if these play soft or stiff to flex after trimming ( will trim for stiff flex ) and can soft step them if needed. The blanks I have to use are two A/L blanks and 8 R/S Blanks. Thought I could also build a “ flighted set” using the A blanks for 4&5 irons and the rest down the set moving into a stiffer profile for the 8/9/pw. Is this possible? Ive built lots of iron sets ( steel and graphite ) but never used a comboflex type of shaft. Any advice or info is much appreciate
  6. I hear ya! Worst is a downhill side hill lie ( I have these all the time at Augusta ..... I jest). Ive found the trick is to 1) set shoulders along the slope ( ie you may have to tilt left shoulder “ down” if its a downhill lie) and 2). For me ball always comes out lower and running so plan for that. 3) Goal is to get ball on green shmaybe near the hole ?. Its a tough shot.
  7. Important point also is knowing your limitations. If you have a ball in the rough With 220 to the green, trouble lurking left ( water, deep bunkers, black holes whatever) and you have to hit a high shot to a back pin.... maybe take a second and think “ do I have the ability to hit this shot 8/10 times and pull it off”? If answer is no hit a different shot that may give you a better chance of success... even if that means a punch out to a new distance. This is how you manage that course in front of you and avoid a big blowup hole. Hitting the “ hero “ shot may work once but playing the percenta
  8. Ball flies about as far as the sand does ... then rolls. Works for me.
  9. I had this other day... very un-level tee box.... used some time and my feet to find a more level lie IE aimpoint stuff. Also ended up taking advantage of two club lenghts back rule too. Helped alot. The hanging lie is tough. Above the feet the ball is CLOSER to you so you have to stand further away. Alot of times golfers think this lie promotes a hook/ draw but often people will pull it. You have to know what you tend to do. I generally pull it. Hard packed sand in Bunker. Another sucker lie. See alot of people skull it and nuke it over the green. Saw a great vid from M
  10. This has me seriously thinking about going BACK to my Matrix programs. I still have them shafted up with MP 29 heads in the shop ( I never get rid of clubs lol .... wife rolls eyes) May try the ole lead tape on the back of the shaft trick too on the padersons just to see what happens.
  11. Appstate: Appstate as in Appalachian State in Boone NC? I am from Greensboro my self and went to ECU. I am still in the adjustment phase I guess. I just have the low cap mentality of dont want the ball going left unless I wanted it too. I like the programs but Made the switch to try and increase distance some and try a lighter weight shaft.
  12. I recently went from Matrix Program 130’s ( 115 grams ?) to some 80 gram Padersons. Initially hit everything out on the toe. Started slapping on lead tape club by club and its helped alot. It takes a while to get used to the reduces SW. My only issue now is everything wants to draw which is ok but the higher ball flight is nice. The Matrix Programs definitely play stiffer to flex ( for me ) than the newer shafts. May end up going back to the programs and just weakening the lofts some. I definitely had trouble feeling the club head initially and agree it threw the timing off during the swing. I
  13. Posted this earlier in wrong place. Anyone have experience with using these shafts. I have been considering trying a set For a backup set of irons I have.... plus the need to tinker again has hit.... again. How do they perform? Post trim are they true or soft to flex ( never trimmed a set of combo type shafts or used them before so Sorry if this is a poor question). Flighting shots difficult ? Difficult to swing weight ( I see you Matrix program 130’s... over in the corner mocking me). My research so far leads me to believe these are best for a smooth swinger ( Me) with a slower swin
  14. Hi everyone. Saw a set of these and am intrigued as to playing characteristics, launch and do they play to flex ( obviously after trimming) or soft to flex.... may be a dumb question but I've not used or messed with combo flex type shafts before so pls excuse my ignorance. Anyone currently use these. Thought of purchasing and putting them into a backup set of heads. Comments welcome!
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