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kylemd

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  1. Sand the cord some. I prefer a crossline cord myself and will sand the new ones as well very lightly. The old Lamkin tour black full cords were great as well. TVC are ok but cord is less “ substantial “ to me.
  2. I Have graphite in my MP 14’s.... so so hurtful
  3. I have them in Mp 29’s. Love them. Yes they are counter balanced alot so to hit your number tungsten tip weights and lead tape may be required. Nice high launching very very stable shaft. Prob the best graphite shaft I have ever played.
  4. Please .... do yourself a favor and get a shaft puller. There are some relatively inexpensive types that will work just fine. Any twisting to a heated graphite shaft is not good. You wouldn't use a screwdriver when a hammer is needed right!
  5. OP: Agree with the addicted to the blade pureed shot feel. Been playing them all my life. Mizzy mostly. Currently in MP 29’s and 14’s ( again for the bazillion th time). eBK: yes in your older blades the sweet spot was more heel side of center. Now more or less center due to grinds and COG. I occasionally will take out my grandfathers blades ( from the sixties) ( OLD Macgregors) with the long pinned hosels.... def heel sided sweet spot. Play what you enjoy playing, be it razor thin blades or shovels. Ball doesnt care.
  6. Matrix program F15 85 grams. Lots of em on ebay. They may be parallel.370 but you can hand sand the tips to a taper.... easy and I do it weekly. Only taking off 2 100 th ‘s of an inch or so. I have a set in my Mp14 ‘s and like them.
  7. I have tried them. Used them in a set of MP 33’s. Although the combo spun way too much causing me to loose distance I thought they were smooth and felt really good. Are they as stable as my Matrix Program 130’s? No. But a good shaft. Launch high but able to flight down as well. I had them tipped for regular flex and probably needed stiff. I gave them to my Dad who loves them!
  8. Mizuno MP 14’s. Traditional weak lofts and truly NOT that hard to hit. Seriously. Try a set.
  9. I have used both. Much prefer the precise control and heat delivery of a micro torch. MUCH easier to not overheat a graphite shaft and ruin it. Agree with shaft puller. Unless you are in a large high volume shop a very expensive one isnt needed... but nice to mount once and use all the time. Mine fits into a vice and works great.
  10. I own a couple tour issue driver heads. Difference is in exact specs, they tend to sit more open at address ( which I prefer the look of) , and both are hot-melted adding some weight and also slightly changing the sound (more muted). They are older cycles but work. Definitely not a “ hotter face”.
  11. Arlin964 I use Vega Vw 10’s in both the 52 and 58. They work well for me. The trick to using any wedge out of hardpan bunkers is less speed thru the shot. Sometimes have to use more club if its a long chunk and run. Try using alot less speed and see it that helps. Softer the sand the more speed you need. Harder lies and hard packed sand less speed. But, and I give Monte all the credit for this... accelerate like a minivan for this shot not acceleration like a Ferrari. Hope that helps.
  12. Play a 52 and a 58. No need for anything else. I can close them down or open them up as needed for loft or less loft. Learning to use loft is fun. Hours spent on range tinkering with opening/ shutting face and learning to use those two.
  13. I use a 48 inch ruler that I have marked with permanent marker for my specific cut ( but not installed) shaft lengths. Works great. I keep a nore book of all the builds I have done. Helps with remembering specific specs ( length loft lie etc.) I also have a loft and lie machine that I will use .... actually two and use the ancient Maltby one the most with a new model yet to be set up. Swingweight scale and club measuring scale from golf works as well that folds up when not in use. Graphite shaft puller ... economy model works just fine. Most importantly is using a sturdy bench vise and rubber
  14. I agree with the post above. Better to add lead tape on the range to fine tune the weight. Or just pull the heads and re-do the whole thing. While Ive never had a steel shaft snap with powder, It has happened with one ( just one) graphite shaft. Thing splintered like a cheap fishing rod meant for bass but caught a marlin instead. Ive built up alot of clubs and after that dont ise powder for graphite. Ever. The ramrodding of the cork prob trashed the inside of the shaft and caused the failure. Just my 1 cent opinion. Id rather use heavier tip weights or tape.
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