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  1. Like Nessism say, Up to 3/8" is what we can expect without insert issues, some heads accept even more. Taper tip shafts comes in a bit different depending on shaft model. Most has a taper thats 6/8" long, from that point to first step or to the taper we find both 0.370 parallel tip and shaft models where the taper rate changes at 6/8" but goes on all the way to first step. In general, steel shafts respond with 1 CPM for each 1/8" tip trim, so 4/8" is considered equal to hard stepping once, even if we cant really get there, since a hard stepped shaft is both 4/8" shorter at the tip and th
  2. It dont work like that...... Normal head weight for wedges starts from a PW of 285 grams, then we add 7 grams just like on irons for each head shorter even if they normally is played 2/8" shorter instead of 4/8" That gives this "start weight" for heads, but since production CANT make them all spot on, tip weights is used to get them on target. PW = 285 grams GW = 292 grams SW = 299 grams LW = 306 grams But thats ONLY a estimate of what to expect them to be, so tip weights is adjustments vs actual head wgt and play length to get a certain SW value, often D3 on GW and D5 on SW
  3. Some of my friends think im stone crazy when i say humans is not alone in this universe, and they start laughing when i say some of them might be on earth already... Il make them wipe their grin of their faces by showing them this post UFO photos can be faked, but this ??? ;-)))))
  4. You already have some good answers to your questions, but here is few words from me. Weight is where it all starts, and its the most important shaft spec. Shaft weight delivers "resistance" and its individual what resistance each player needs, so forget "lighter is faster" or "heavy is slower", thats only valid under conditions where lighter becomes faster if the shaft the player has now is too heavy, and heavy becomes slower when weight becomes TOO high. Flex and profile is "triggers" for how much power the player will use on the swing, ball flight is NOT really a shaft issue, but sin
  5. You got it right, now imagine what happens when someone forgets to check LIE angles before dryfit, and later find a few heads that needs a adjustment of 2* maybe more?...or if you dont get the split grip fully seated before you put the club on the SW scale during dryfit? or that a "jig" was used to cut all shafts to the same exact slope of 0.5" and hosel specs was plus minus 1 mm for insert and BBGM?...or grip weight tolerances of plus minus 3.5 grams? and how often have you seen a set where the total wgt slope was good? its quite a job to build a set to tight tolerances for all specs when
  6. My suggestion. Drop the 5W, and replace it with a 18* Hybrid like this: Driver 11*-13* 4W / 16.5* H2 /18* H4 /24* H6 /31* #8 IRON - 38* (1* strong vs slope of 8*,but its NOT s high COR iron, the hybrids is HIGH COR) PW IRON - 46 * here we are back on track with 8.0* SW/LW - 56* Putter H2 to PW as "a combo set" with 6/8" between clubs and 1.0 SWP (15-16 grams head wgt progression) Add 2-3 SWP for the SW/LOB, depending on shaft choice, the 56* can use the same shaft as irons and hybrids For the wood and driver, a lighter shaft is needed, but this set up will most l
  7. You have TONS of options. Play length Whats important is NOT going TOO SHORT in the short end of the set...what you do from the shortest full swing club, and the other direction is "all up to you" The classic is 4/8" - 4.0* loft - 7 grams head wgt. A "half set" made to classic specs would then be 1.0" - 8.0* - 14 grams Many have discovered that we can improve our iron game if we shorten length progression to 3/8" and use MOI matching (progressive SW value), instead of the classic flat SW value. We can modify a classic set from 4/8" to 3/8" and use 0.5 SWP progression to get as cl
  8. Be a little careful about doing it all by lofts on the paper, real life gaps is what matters. Today we often mix heads with solid head/face and "high COR" models, and ball speed is not the same from the same lofts then, so gaps want always be a flat line we can make by even loft gaps.... I suggest doing a bag like this based on WISHON components. They have a extra wgt port below the shaft tip, and woods/hybrids have both a hosel port and a extra sole port for wgt, so they are silly easy to adjust head weight right on so it fits the play lengths and MOI/SW targets we have. I dont know a
  9. THIS..... Here is how too... Take the club and let it rest on one finger so you can find the approximate BP Now set a piece of painters tape around the shaft at that spot. Now take a knife and place it in a vise, edge up. (dont have to be very sharp) Move the club back and forward on the edge of the knife until you find the exact BP where the club can rest flat without your support. (1 mm matters, just run numbers plus minus 1 mm and see what happens) When BP is found, PRESS the club down against the knife blade, so you get a measure mark in the painters tape, NOT the shaft (th
  10. I will have to correct your info here There is NO difference to head weight between mens and womans clubs. Womans clubs is shorter, who makes a natural drop in SW value on womans clubs, and combined with a lighter and softer shaft, you have a "womans model" To the OP, look at shaft weight, thats where it starts, stay in the low end for a driver, and make sure there is a slight progression in shaft weight from driver to irons. (example a driver shaft of 45-50 grams - irons minimum 60 max 70 grams) As we go shorter from driver into other clubs, shaft weight shall go UP, never down.
  11. I NOT familiar with the actual shaft modes, but in general its about TIP LENGTH. To be able to make a SET of irons, we need to be able to tip trim 4-5 inches, PLUS have enough tip section left for full insert. Hybrid shafts is often made to 42.00" uncut (instead of 41 like for irons), and they very often have a short tip section who limits tip trim to 1.5-2.0 inch, just like wood shafts... About head weight. Irons and Hybrid has about the same head weight for each # number, so tip trim for a #3 iron or 3 Hybrid is the same, so the typical norm (exceptions excist), is that #1 is zero ti
  12. It seems to be 2 shafts of the same model in Tom Wishons DB, one of them marked 35, the other 3.5. Ive not been able to locate the "3.5", and those who has 3.5 on the shaft is only a reference to TQ as far as i know. Have you measured how long the tip section actually is? From 2002 True Temper included Grafalloy under the TT webside, but its FLASH and i dont have that on my computer, but you might take a look into the archives of WayBack Machine and look for ProLite made from 2002 and later, maybe there was another model? https://web.archive.org/web/2020*/grafalloy.com
  13. The best is to distribute it both ways from the BP, and then it want be visible from address either
  14. ProLite 35 only had 2.0" long tip section. This is the specs for year 2000-2001
  15. I never tip trimmed S400 more than 0.5" and some likes it, some dont (feels hars compared to the std #9). I understand that weight is wanted as high as possible, and if you dont mind lead tape on your clubs, i would like Adam C suggest using X100, but NOT the #9 iron shaft, use the #8. Thats only SS1 when we compare DG to DG, it will bring flex down against S400 butt side about half way, but it will launch lower than S400 strait in or tipped 3/8" (never tested side by side with the same player with more tip trim on S400), and spin is higher than S400, so its a good option for the S flex
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