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Howard_Jones

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  1. Club maker supplies in general, tools. grips, shaft and heads....now owner of the Tom Wishon brand, Diamond Golf in UK is worth to check out. https://www.diamondgolf.co.uk/
  2. Valtiel is right, but we can look at it this way. Normal tip trim instructions for most but not all woods is 4/8" for each 10 grams....or 2/8" = 5 grams..... So, it equals to adding 5 grams without tip trim, or like adding 2+ SWP of lead tape to the head, without tip trim compensation.... Most would see it as "improved feel", so unless you know the shaft and it feels loose now, just use it strait in.
  3. Like Stuart says, the 4" inch fulcrum is "someones estimated point of rotation" thinking the middle of the hands is that point, but the actual point of rotaion vary during the swing. Anyway, the debates about the SW scale is never ending, we had enough of those about changing grip weights, especially "what happens to SW" when we go from standard to MID size, but we never had a debate about THIS:.....Actual weight on the SW scales side of the fulcrum, here a example of 2 different shaft weights, both with a STD 50 gram grip..... The SW scale can match a set where 1 club is already tune
  4. i agree, weight is a important spec for grips as it is for all other club components, but what do you really look for? If its lower priced option than Golfpride and Lamkin, but still good grips with weight specs? AVON is rather low priced vs the 2 mentioned, their grip options is limited, but still good. As example the PRO DX2 model "looks like" Golf Pride New Decade Multicompound, and you find it with and without cord on the upper half. http://avongrips-com.3dcartstores.com/Golf-Grips_c_163.html But what are you really looking for? size and weight wanted
  5. We measure grip diameter 2.0" from the butt end and down - Standard size 0.600 shaft 60 core = 0.900 - 1 layer of BU tape (Mitchell) = 0.015 MID size = 4 Layers or 0.960 On the paper 58 core adds 0.020, so 4 Layers, OR core 60 Midsize plus 1 layer of BU should get you there, ....IF the shaft butt you start from actually is 0.600 ...always measure with a caliper, and the full 10 inch down from the butt (tape length), use what ever BU tape you want. If you plan to use 58 core Standard size, your BUTT OD TARGET, with BU tape becomes 0.655-0.660, the grip adds 0.315-0.320
  6. The crack want cause a loss of distance, bad impact position (heel side) does
  7. it is broken, but if its safe to play it? hard to tell, it seems like a "high heel side impact" behind that damage, its normally the shaft who breaks at the hosel top then, but the energy was for some reason absorbed by the club head instead of breaking the shaft. If you look closely, the area with the damage is actually "the strongest part" of the "cup face with hosel part", its where the distance to the carbonfiber crown is the longest. The hoselitself have to move quite a bit to make the "borderline" between the cup face and crown to become so "short" it splits when it become "stretched"
  8. What about head weight adjustment? - IF but only IF, that set who started from 0.5" plus, was made using standard weight heads (could be B-weight, who 7 grams below std to offset SW raise by going longer), your PW should now be at "standard SW" IF it has standard head weight. If thats your "point ZERO", and you tried to make a "poor mans MOI match" based on that club, (make the others feel like your PW), then all shorter clubs needs a little head weight adjustment due to the 3/8" slope. IF you did nothing to head weight, thats your issue now Here is the weight needed to get allk clubs
  9. So you started from a PW thats minus 0.5 inch, then 3/8" from that club all the way? What have you done with head weight? Was the PW a "good fit" as it became at minus 0.5"? (did you play a regular set as minus 0.5" earlier?) Its a lack of info about "how and why", but if you can fill in here, i can most likely tell you how to tune it up right, between the lines it seems to be a head weight issue, (lack of head weight), but i would need some more info to run the numbers.
  10. im glad to hear that chart has been useful for some of you, but it amaze me that my chart seems to be the only chart for shaft weight progression out there, thats why i made it, i could not find similar anywhere.
  11. Just to express this one a bit better if thats whats happening....yes it stinks big time getting older, because the youngsters cant see how much we ACTUALLY loose, and how much longer a golf hole becomes. Using the same rule PW carry x 2 = driver carry gives this scenarios: When you have lost "1 irons length" in irons, your approaches becomes "3 clubs longer in"...thats right, thats single iron lost as distance getting older makes trhe approach to become a shot 3 clubs longer in, and il explain how. We have lost 2 x 1 iron with the driver, AND we have lost "1 club" in the irons, so the iron
  12. Are you sure its only with the driver you have lost distance....(we all get older...just thinking...) A few simple numbers you can run to see if your driver is good or not is to compare its average CARRY with the same average CARRY for your PW...the factor for clubs that works good is PW carry x 2 = Driver carry. How does your numbers looks like now? try your PW again to make sure.....if its 7 yards shorter than it used to be, you know why your driver is 15 yards shorter too.....just saying, "been there done that"...
  13. I can promise you that your thinking is a large misjudgement of reality. - If the man in question, knows what he is doing, he will be worth every dime of it, and i will explain why. You will have the fitting experience of a life time, with eye openers you did not see coming. IT will tell you more about why something works for you, and why other solutions dont. Its educational both for future club buying, but just as much for your understanding of how to really take advantage of the club specs picked out for you. It will improve your game, and by that your mood and pleasure about playing in
  14. We are almost high-jacking the tread, so lets get it back on track. The question : Long irons AMT White, vs Long irons DG 105 Lets take a look at all the properties we can find here: STEP PATTERN - AMT WHITE LONG IRONS STEP PATTERN - DG 105 ALL IRONS Officially the #1 iron is 105 vs 106.4, but dont forget that GOLD weight sorting is plus minus 1.5 grams both ways. DG 105 has the same 11" long butt section as AMT White has, but 105 has a tip section thats 0.5" shorter. The numbers of classic "Dynamic steps", each of 1.75 is different, AMT has 11 of them, the 105 only 7, so the
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