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Everything posted by 1_Putt

  1. Final results. I believe the problem was a combination of a couple things. The double sided tape was remaing a little gooey from leaving in a hot Arizona garage. And by not using any buildup masking tape the gooey tape was directly against the slick metal shaft allowing it to twist. I added a couple wraps of maksing tape on the shaft and then applied my existing (slighly gooey) double sided tape. The grip seems to be solid now after 2-3 weeks. So having the double sided now gripping against the rougher masking tape, plus a tighter bond from two wraps seems to have done the trick. Thanks for all the suggestions. Now if I could only make some putts.
  2. I use mineral spirits and have used it for many years and hundreds of grips with no problems. I'm suspecting the problem is leaving the grip tape in the hot Arizona garage for a couple of years and it has become compromised. Whether that turns out to be the problem or not I'll keep the tape inside from now on. Weird that you can just pull the grip off (with some force) after having it on for a few weeks.
  3. Thanks for the suggestions. The putter is a standard odyssey with .580 butt diameter. So I don't think it is due to a diameter problem. Today I was able to just pull the grip off as I did with the last SS grip. It left a very sticky but gooey tape residue on the shaft. I'm thinking the problem may be the grip tape. It is a standard 2" quality grip tape but I leave it in the hot garage and I'm thinking while it appears very sticky it may not be setting up properly and just remains gooey. I will get some new tape and try it. I'll also take your suggestions and add a wrap or two of masking tape to make extra sure it is a snug fit.
  4. I've had two Super Stroke Pistol GT grips on my OWorks putter. I love the grip but with both grips (one original and one replacement) the grip will twist on the shaft. When the original grip started doing this I thought maybe it was due to the heat here in Arizona. I was able to just pull the grip off without any solvent or anything. I thought a new grip and new tape would help. But the new grip is doing the same thing. I'll look down and see the grip is twisted a few degrees. Then I can just twist it back into alignment. I feel like I could just pull this grip off as well. Has anyone else noticed this with SS grips? I'm thinking there may be something with the Super Stroke material that doesn't give a good bond with the double sided tape. Any thoughts or ideas? As much as I like SS grips this is becoming a deal breaker.
  5. How can they sell dozens and dozens of like new Sim2 drivers, all models, shaft flexes and lofts? Many "head only". I can't imagine this many like new trade-in clubs. Makes me wonder if they could be seconds or rejects from the factory. Anyone have first hand knowledge?
  6. I purchased these a few years ago and never built them. Now I would like to sell them but can't remember who they were from. They are a nice chrome plated forged, .355 taper, made in USA, but I can't remember what the "B" stands for. Anyone remember these?
  7. Great, thanks for the explanation! Now to find some hot melt.
  8. I just purchased a TM M3 440 Tour Issue driver head from quickshipgolf on ebay. It looked fine (shrink wrap, specs on top) and I assembled with a favorite shaft and looked forward to trying it out. The first thing I noticed was the extreme tinny sound from the head. Nothing like the normal TM thwack I was expecting. I hate it. Has anyone else experienced this or anything similar with TM drivers or tour issue TM heads? Made me wonder if it could be fake. The SN looked clean, 81PBB0N0. Thoughts or suggestions appreciated.
  9. I have a new set of Vokey SM non-conforming. I pulled them out the other day and went back to shredding balls. Makes me sick to hit a new ProV one time with a wedge and have it almost unplayable. Does anyone else have this problem with Vokey SM? Not worth the cost for a little extra spin. Besides, they said the non-conforming really only give you an advantage from the rough due to deeper grooves. You should not see much difference on full shots from the fairway. Does anyone know if the new conforming Vokeys shred balls as badely as non-conforming?
  10. Has anyone hit both Altus and VS Proto RIP? I would interested in a comparison and how they play to the stated flex.
  11. I am a hobbyist club junkie and have been using a micro torch for years to remove graphite shafts. I have had pretty good luck but with some of the newer composite heads such as RAZR Hawk I'm afraid even the micro torch may get a little tricky to keep from damamging the head or finish. So I want to give a heat gun a try. How long does it typically take to heat a head with a heat gun before the head will come off? Do you basically just point the heat gun at the hosel and leave it there? (with the micro torch you must move it around) Is the highest temp you can get out of a gun best? Or can it be too high? What temperature typically is used? Where to find a good gun? Thanks
  12. If I want to use hot melt for simply sound muting of a metal wood head, is it just a matter of how much melt is used vs adding for swingweighting purposes? If the melt adds weight then I would think even a smaller amount just to mute the sound would add some weight. Is this correct? Anyone know the typically amounts of melt used? For muting vs adding weight?
  13. A heavier shaft will definately INCREASE the swingweight. So this cannot be offset by hotmelt. A couple of ways to offset the added swingweight of the heavier shaft would be to shorten the overall length of the driver. I would guess for going from 60g to 80g shaft shortening the shaft 1/4" to 1/2" would make up the difference. But you could always try it first before deciding to shorten. It may just feel and work out fine. Another way to decrease swingweight is by adding weight in the butt end of the club. I don't like to do this because it then increases the overall weight of the club. But you can decrease a couple of swingweight points just by adding a heavier grip. A cord grip for example typically weighs more than a non-cord. While a heavier shaft may do what you want, you might consider sticking with the same weight shaft and just going with a shaft that has lower spin and lower launch characteristics. There are many good ones out there.
  14. The Callaway ads are clever and sharp and meant for knowledgeable golfers. Great, I love them. That TM you tube ad sounded like it was made by kindergarteners for kindergarteners. + 1 for Callaway marketing. I wonder if pros really like the white heads or just deal with it because they are being paid to play it. I tend to think the latter. I predict the white head is a passing fad and will gone in two years or less. But I do applaud TM for their technology and believe it is here to stay.
  15. Parallel or taper tip shafts on these? They went to parallel in the '09 X-Forged whereas the '07 X-Forged were still tapers. Are other major names going to parrallel tip shafts in their irons also?
  16. I know a lot of people are playing the G15, but every time I look at them they seem to have a significant closed face. Are there versions that are not closed? As for the i15, every time I hit the demo driver at golfsmith I just busted it. But when I finally picked one up and took it to the course it was different story. I wasn't consistent with it and it only lasted one or two rounds. I went back to my G10. I just think mass produced retail clubs (drivers especially) are not very consistent in lofts, face angles, shaft flex, etc. If you are lucky and find one that works, great. But don't count on the new one from the rack playing like the demo driver. Might be good to test a few from the rack to make sure you find the one that feels and performs the best.
  17. I want to try an Epic shaft in my 3 wood. My driver SS is 108, and I hit the ball pretty high. My current 3 wood that works reasonably well is a TM V-Steel 13*, with YS-7 FW SX flex. Flex is ok but would not want to be any softer. What are your thoughts on an Epic in a 3 wood? Would the Epic in a 3 wood play soft or firm to the stated flex? Would you recommend stiff or x-stiff ? Thanks for any help or advice you can offer!
  18. [quote name='SPY ZINGER' timestamp='1292905491' post='2851143'] My email to Project X: Can you please clarify details about the shaft that comes standard in the Callaway Diablo Octane Tour driver? I saw that this is a tour shaft that is made for Callaway. However, can you tell me if it incorporates all of the same technological aspects as the rest of the aftermarket PX tour shafts? Is there anything that is different or lacking. If you had to compare it to one of the aftermarket offerings, which one would it compare most too? Is there any advantage in ordering a PX Tour aftermarket shaft. So many times, the OEM offering is a 'watered down' version of an original. Wondering if this is the case with this one. Finally, can you describe the exact profile and characteristics of the Made for Callaway 6.0 Tour? Thanks! Their response: The Diablo Octane Project X shafts are specifically optimized for the Callaway drivers using the Project X design philosophy, materials and tooling. The specifications are available on the Callaway website. [/quote] Of course Callaway would never admit to "watered down" or "lacking" in their products. I guess it could truly mean "optimized", but usually it means cheaper for mass production? Would be nice to know the real answer. I guess we'll have to rely on the experience and testing of what others are finding. The fact that 1lovesputters pulled 5 from the shelf and measured 5.2 to 6.7 flex on the 6.0 Tour shaft at 45.5 inches kind of tells me they are at least not holding a very good tolerance on these shafts, which probably makes them cheaper for Callaway. Maybe they are the ones that don't meet the specifications for the after market version. If you think about it.....what do they do with all those "seconds"?? Hmmm
  19. I haven't hit them yet but everything I've read says they are a winner, so you probably can't go wrong. I currently play a 13* V-Steel 3 wood and was thinking about giving the Octane a try. Not sure yet if I might switch to a 15* and give it a try for a little more hang time. Maybe someone else has some experience with 13* vs 15*.
  20. I assume the Razr X forged irons will continue to have parallel tipped shafts same as '09 version X-Forged ?? Anyone have a thought on parallel vs tapered tipped shafts in the X-Forged? I still like and play the '07 version X-Forged that have taper tip shafts. Could just be my imagination but tapers always seem to feel a little better to me. Parallels also have problem with ferrules coming loose and riding up shaft. Not a big deal but kinda annoying. I also don't like the idea that Callaway changes the shaft simply for ease of manufacturing (heard this was the reason for going to parallel). You would like to think they wouldn't base their design on what is the easiest to manufacture, and possibly give up some amount of feel or performance. I haven't heard that Titleist or other top lines are going this route.
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