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rsballer10

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  1. Course conditions play a role in wedge fitting, but it isn't the only factor. If you are saying as a 16HCP you struggle with your 58 at your skill level (which really is a mid-handicap btw), reducing bounce will probably make the club more difficult to play. My personal experience with low bounce lob wedges is that it's more about precision than it is matching playing conditions. If you are not precise with low bounce wedges, quality of contact will be all over the place. The truth is that 8 degrees of bounce is considered by today's standards to be a relatively low bounce wedge. B
  2. I wouldn't do it - it's basically (2) clubs filling the yardage gap of (1). Right now you essentially have (2) mid bounce wedges, great wedge set that can basically travel anywhere and play OK in any course condition. I prefer a little more bounce in the sand wedge.
  3. 1/2" extensions would not significantly alter the performance of the shafts, shaft extensions are a completely viable option. I would say to answer the swingweight question, we would need to know what the swingweights currently are. If the clubs were built to -1", the builder could have added tip weights/tungsten powder in the shaft to bring the swingweight back up. If that's the case, fixing the swingweight of the club will end up being more difficult. On the other hand, if there was no weight added on the previous build, you could slap a couple of strips of lead tape
  4. I would take the advice given by Stuart_G. Between him and Howard Jones (who's post he references) are two of the best resources WRX has for club fitting. He also mentions shaft weight and swing weight too, not just length. Also curious what makes you think the pulls are not a swing fault, but the right miss is a fault? The dispersion on the picture provided looks wide with a slight left bias - not necessarily someone who needs an "anti-left" driver build. Just going off the data, it looks like tightening the dispersion should be the goal.
  5. I wouldn't try to bend the P790s that much, even if they are forged because they are speed foam multi-material it's probably too risky. I would first try bending an old 1-piece forged iron first. I think you could do 8+ degrees.
  6. Some of the dings and dents are very concerning IMO. My first reaction when reading was there was going to be small knicks on the hosel where they were bent, which shouldn't happen but could happen with a cheap bending bar. Seeing big dents like that means that the builder screwed up big time. They look like pressure points where the machine clamps to the iron. Possibilities: -Clamps on the machine are old and worn, digging into the iron instead of clamping. -The bending machine was over tightented. -The clubs were put into the machine improperly. All in
  7. Thin topline, minimal offset, moderate blade length, thin sole. The sole is the most important because I don't take big divots, so I need something that gets into the turf very easily.
  8. I've got to agree here. How does it not have "Love"? It's one of the most iconic shaft lineups/families of all time.
  9. I changed the weights on a 7s and the 2-ball that I have. I bought the non OEM weights from amazon, they looked identical and they fit just fine. The weights made the putter heavier. Go figure. It doesn't really change the feel all that much - though a heavier putter feels a little more 'dense' upon impact.
  10. Be careful taking swing advice from strangers on the internet. As one of those strangers - here is my advice: - You cannot build a good golf swing by assembling a random assortment of tips and fixes from different users. The net result could be a Franken-swing where the parts and pieces don't fit. - You cannot build a good golf swing overnight. Every OTT swing you've ever made has been essentially ingraining this motion. - You cannot fix everything at once. It might take 3-5 range sessions to ingrain a single change in your golf swing. I know my golf swing ADHD has taken over at
  11. PP58 is the only putter grip I can use. They run counter to the "bigger is better" trend in putting grips.
  12. To be honest I haven't seen as much variance in specs as people are claiming. I have a gauge at home and measure all my own clubs. Not to say it doesn't exist but the claim of +/- 2 degrees seems very extreme. I would venture a guess that its +/- 0.5 at the absolute worst. If someone isn't precise with the measuring tools, the output will not be precise. It's extremely common in irons, where people use their bending machines to measure. With woods, if that face is not dead nuts square when measuring loft, the value measured will not be correct. I could definitely be wro
  13. This won't fix the swing weight issue. MOI is a more accurate measurement. Swing weight scales use a fulcrum that's 14" from the grip. Any weight added on the grip side helps "balance" the swing weight scale, but does not make the club any lighter - statically or dynamically.
  14. I still am firmly in the 3 wood camp. I play a 13.5* 3W and a 18* 5W. I've done 15/18 degree combos but it was too redundant. I like the strong 3W as a driver alternative on bad days, and I like having the juice off the turf for par 5's. I also like having 5W to hit out of any lie because of the very high launch. It's a good combo.
  15. what type of tape and solvent did you use?
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