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rsballer10

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  1. Not trying to be a troll I swear - but are you concerned with making them rust faster, or are you worried about upkeep? I play with raw wedges and a carbon steel putter and my suggestion would be to wipe them down with a silicone cloth after playing. I would not intentionally rust clubs.
  2. Get fitted & practice more. I need a 35 1/2 inch putter to see the line correctly. I also do not square the putter up with oversize grips. Most OTR putters stop at 35". Point being, get fit and use what works for you not what you think might work for you.
  3. But aren't there other swing dynamics at play? I thought higher hands increased face rotation. I think it was the old stack and tilt instruction I read that said for a draw pattern they preferred higher hands with more shaft lean at address. For a fade pattern they said lower hands with less shaft lean. I could be wrong, as that was over 10 years ago that I read the book.
  4. What I don't see mentioned very often is that I think the lie angle does matter, but not because it changes the face angle at impact. I think lie angle influences handle height at address, which influences ball flight. Higher hands makes it easier to hit a draw, lower hands encourages a fade. I'm guessing it influences swing dynamics in this way.
  5. That's what I ended up doing. My "test wedge" turned out better than I expected (low expectations).
  6. I bought a cheap angle grinder from HD. The highest grit wheel they had was 80 grit so I bought it. Did a test grind on a spare 52 degree. I shaped the sole with the angle grinder, and then used the orbital sander I already had with some 220 & 320 to smooth out the grind. With no previous grinding experience I was able to make a functional sole grind, so I would say a belt sander is NOT required.
  7. I appreciate the recommendation! I will look into it.
  8. Possibly - though the drawback with the bench/angle grinder is getting the right wheel/disc to go with it. To me that modification seems pretty simple, just having trouble locating the right accessories at the moment.
  9. I wasn't very clear in my description - I have a gram scale and a swing weight scale already. I've got most/all of the equipment to blueprint and build golf clubs. My question was specifically about the grinding equipment.
  10. Hey all, I want to get into grinding wedges at my home golf shop. Most of it is for my own curiosity/club tinkering mind. I understand that it is a tricky thing to do, especially without a lot of experience. The options for which tools seems like the following, from cheapest to most expensive: -Drill attachment (drill is too slow, I will probably skip this) -Angle grinder/flap disc -Bench grinder -Belt sander (too expensive) I'm leaning towards an angle grinder so I do not have to pull the heads to grind them. However, all the flap discs
  11. This may not be unpopular on WRX, but it is in the mainstream: -Forgiveness/MOI is most important at the top of the bag, and practically worthless at the bottom end of the bag.
  12. That's what I thought too. Definitely don't notice the ferrule being 1mm off when my eyes are directed towards a giant ferrule and the over-sanded shaft.
  13. I'm a high single digit cap, 6'5" and have played irons anywhere from standard to +1". Currently settled in at +1/2" on the irons, +1/4" on the wedges. I almost never hit my wedges 100%, in my experience adding too much length to my wedges loses a lot of feel on touch shots. I used to play all my wedges the same length as the PW, but just found more consistency with distance control by going shorter.
  14. I don't think you have to worry about SGI irons launching the ball too high. Most of them are lower lofted to counter act that. My suggestion would be to demo clubs that you like the look of and gives you the right amount of forgiveness vs playability. Then I would get fit based off of what you already like - this will help the fitter narrow down your options.
  15. For me the head design or movable weight adjustment makes the biggest difference. When I had the Cobra F9 10.5 and the 9.0 driver heads it was apparent that the 9.0 model had more fade bias. No matter what I did with my setup, that was a fade driver for me. The 10.5 had completely different characteristics - so much that I could swap the shaft from 1 head to another and change shot shape. Even when I adjusted the lofts to be equal.
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