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Everything posted by rsballer10

  1. I exclusively play mizuno irons - they are what I prefer. I will say all of the major OEM's make great equipment nowadays.
  2. Nike Method 003. Was my gamer from 2012-2017. Built it to my current specs and started rolling it great.
  3. What issues are you having with partial shots? Controlling distance and spin is a little vague. It might be easier to nail down a recommendation with some more detail.
  4. It's the same shaft. The TI has tighter tolerances. +/- 0.5g for the TI vs +/-2g for the standard DG. There are a select few that can feel slight weight differences, I am not one of them. Not really a high level player though. The shaft itself will not perform any different. I would say it comes down to cost/benefit. Std DG is about $23/shaft and DGTI is about $45/shaft. OEM upgrade prices vary. DG is almost always a no upcharge shaft, while DGTI there is a slight upcharge.
  5. Couldn't imagine 3.5* lie angle gap between irons. Also would drive me nuts a PW 2 degrees more upright than a LW that's shorter. 52/56/58? Is that correct? Were these specs taken from the bending machine or a club gauge?
  6. Like other/s have said, there is no 'right' or 'wrong' way to account for the grip cap - even OEM's measure differently. My mitchell ruler has a measuring tool that compensates for the grip cap.
  7. I wish Scotty would make it like Wedgeworks - where you could get stuff that was desirable but too niche for OTR. I'd pay $600-750 for a new carbon scotty. The problem is I will NOT pay $1k+ for something custom, when there are boutique makers that can do it for under 4 figures.
  8. Not enough info to give a recommendation. Do you like a longer or shorter blade? Topline? What kind of sole? Club ho'ing blades is kind of silly in my opinion. I play them because their performance is predictable and consistent - I've played blades made in the 80's and 2020. Loft for loft, they perform about the same, with the exception of small details (See above).
  9. PX and PX LZ have 2 different shaft profiles. It's really difficult to say which plays stiffer, because that depends on the user. I have never felt that PX was as harsh as some claim, to me it has a very even bend profile so I can't really feel a particular area of the shaft bending. To me the LZ is completely different. I can only feel the shaft bend in the midsection, and I feel almost no bend in the handle at all. Swinging the club, the LZ feels very soft but it never felt out of control. The reason I stopped playing them was because I had issues with too much spin. Most likely that was a clubhead issue, not a shaft issue as the shaft doesn't affect spin to the extent I was experiencing.
  10. I have both an 18* 5 wood and a 18* 2 hybrid. After playing a significant amount of rounds with each I prefer the hybrid because it's more versatile and flights the ball lower. The other issue I have is the 5 wood is too closely gapped with my 3 wood. The hybrid bridges the gap between fairway wood and irons a little more evenly.
  11. Not to pick the low hanging fruit but most likely the answer is find a good fitter. That would get you to the correct answer quicker. The DIY route is kind of the trial and error route, from my own experience I prefer the lower spin model heads at a higher loft (10.5). I also had success playing the forgiving/MAX forgiveness type drivers, and just lowered the loft on the sleeve. The reason I stick with the low spinning heads is I just seem to get less over draws with it. I've stuck with the M1 440 CC head for a while just because I'm comfortable with it.
  12. It's so true - I feel like we all "know" better but it's a tough habit to break. I know I come up with a bunch of rationalizations for buying/building new equipment. The worst part is I favor traditional equipment, blade like irons, wedges, putters & compact drivers. Stuff that doesn't need to be the latest and greatest because it is least affected by tech advancements. The worst part of all is that my equipment setup is essentially the same as it was over a decade ago: D,3w/5w, 3-pw, sw, lw. This bag cost me : $200 + 40 + 35 + 140 + 20 + 20 ~ $450-500 if I remember correctly. Now I'm around $2k-3k for a set of clubs that essentially does the same thing. The difference for me was lifestyle creep, I'm not a broke college kid anymore. A part of me wishes that I had put the money into something more productive.
  13. USGA club length rules are to define what is a legal playing length and what is not. The only determination the USGA makes is whether a club is "legal" or "not legal". The rule does not define HOW all club builders and OEM's measure club length. Stuart_G is 100% correct. I have a consistent standard - my mitchell ruler, and can attest to the fact that one manufacturer's 37.75" 5 iron is sometimes identical to another OEM 38" 5 iron. The biggest discrepancy I see is in putters. The mitchell ruler reads much shorter than stated by the OEM, even when using their "putter sole block" or whatever it's called. I need to know the building codes to do my job, and this is a classic case of knowing WHAT the rule/code means, but not knowing HOW to apply it.
  14. It does look to be pricey. Right now nothing is cheap. I unloaded a bunch of stuff on eBay recently because of it. If the supply chains start stabilizing at the end of 1q next year like I've been hearing in my industry, maybe that will change. Something tells me we are being told this by our manufacturers to keep us from freaking out.
  15. Sole width + camber affects contact point on the face. While a wider body club is more forgiving on low strikes, I also get more of them. I actually had an adjustment period with my newer MP-18's because of the additional camber, compared to irons 10-15 years prior. It's not night and day, but is noticeable. I actually get more into the turf with my MP-32's than with a less forgiving and narrower MP-18. The OEM's are getting a lot better with a lot of the players distance/players game improvement. I had the t100's for a while and could have easily played them, I just wasn't ready to make the change. To be honest, my equipment changes haven't actually led to better scores. I'm sure if I stuck 60g graphite in my irons it would screw me up, but within reason I could play a lot of different irons.
  16. I play MB's because I struggle getting wider cambered soles into and out of the turf. Turf interaction is a real thing, and most of the public courses I play are pretty firm. Sole width and design doesn't affect a lot of people, but I am very sensitive to it. I will say my old MP-32s that are currently in the bag instead of the MP-18s are a nice balance. Small cavity, moderate sole width, but very little camber so the club gets into the turf pretty easily.
  17. Second this - controlling launch and spin via shaft profile is a fools game. Adding loft will definitely increase trajectory. Reducing shaft weight will increase trajectory slightly as well. A low launching light weight shaft will fly higher than a high launching heavy weight shaft. If the PX 5.5 is too low then you should look lighter than 115 grams. There's DG105, Modus 105, C-taper lite, S Taper lite, etc all going to be slightly lighter than PX 5.5. These are all "tour quality" shafts that are going to be a litter easier to swing.
  18. DG120 S300 I can't think of a shaft that would would have a closer profile to DG than a lighter version of DG
  19. Trends in golf come and go, I believe the strokes gained approach really killed the popularity of having an abundance of wedges with very narrow gapping. It also isn't necessary - like others say regarding this topic, just open a 60 degree 1/4 turn and you've got the same thing basically.
  20. News flash - there's rapid inflation all around you. Here in the US, us "average joes" are seeing inflation that is much higher than what's reported.
  21. https://www.amazon.com/Gofotu-Weights-Compatible-Callaway-Odyssey/dp/B097QWHZYC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=odyssey+putter+weights&qid=1631301172&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExM0hLRFA2V0ZNUzI4JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTAzODA0MlJYQzdWQ1pLQjQwSiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjc3OTQ1Mk0zQjFUOURSNEgzWiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= don't know if you can add 50, but you can add more weight. Each model comes with different weights standard
  22. I've found (through both success and failure) the best time to buy is the previous model year, when the new release comes out. Prices almost always plummet once customers can get fitted to the new model. Case in point - now is a great time to buy the 2019 T100 irons.
  23. The current prices have pushed me out of the market for new clubs. That's probably a good thing anyway. I honestly hope this gives the DTC brands a chance to establish themselves because equipment shouldn't be this expensive. Even a set of forged MB's are pushing the $1500 range, when it's literally a hunk of metal on a stick.
  24. Definitely need some spinners. That way you can pull up to the clubhouse with the rims still spinning!
  25. Can you take any more pictures? Are they the same modus? The one with the scratched label sounds more like the Modus3 130, not the 120. X-Stiff in the butt/mid & moderate in the tip section.
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