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matchavez

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  1. Dear mods, I found no way to delete my account. Please let me know how to do that. I'm most definitely done with contributing.
  2. > @PeteW said: > > > @j3r1ch0h0l1c said: > > I know it's been mentioned on here in another forum but I'd flat out just love to see a re-release of the Eye 2's. > > I emailed them when the announcement for the glide eye 2 wedges came out and their response was that there wasn’t any plans for a full eye 2 reboot. I hope they were lying to me. They won't even make a 50º option, so I'm pretty sure they're telling you the truth.
  3. > @Fenrir said: > > @boggyman said: > > If you love the ZZs, why not just regrip your current set. I find the Eye 2s as forgiving as anyone’s suggestions other than maybe the 15s. What’s your current HC? > > Current HC is sitting at 28.3 (which is partly inflated by playing “easy” courses) I just shot a +22 over round which should help bring it down quite a bit as my net score was -8 for the course. > > It looks like I may just keep playing my eye 2’s until winter hits them scoop up something in the off season when prices will drop, thank you to everyone who took the time I feel like I got a lot of info as far as groove rule and such I'm with the same idea here that re-gripping is the best idea until you find something you like. I know you're talking about the zz-lite, but I've been a 28 a ways back, and I can assure you that unless you are the cruddiest driver in history, you don't shoot a +22, be happy, and say your irons aren't cutting it. Now, I could be wrong, but what you do have is _good feel_ and that's awesome. But the technology has moved on, and nothing you pick in the G/i range is going to be any worse than the eye2. It's a classic iron, and the all-timer, but 30 years of engineering has made serious advances. I strongly suggest that you go to a golf store or pro shop, or whatever, and give some light shafts a try. Don't worry about the heads _at all_. They'll be fine. Try something with a modus 105 in it. See if you like it. Try something with a Dynamic Gold in it, like an XP95, and see how that goes. And try something with a ProjectX lz in it. Then, you can at least build what you like in more contemporary terms. From there, it's easy. If you asked me to make a "right now" recommendation, i20s with CFS are can't-lose. i200 with a Modus 105 will probably fill you with the feel you want. And any of the G-series will be heads that when you aren't middled, will show you why they're better.
  4. S55's with that shaft will be cheaper than a re-shaft. Reshafting 5+ year old irons is never a good financial choice. The question you have to ask yourself is what you want... and if it's extra distance, I'm not seeing the point. If it's feel, great. But I think you're going to be severely disappointed if the x100 is for extra yards. You're going to fire it lower, and unless you need to get trajectory DOWN, you're going to lose control of your descent angle for 5 more yards. Here's a bit of advice... the Edwin Watts guy doesn't get a sale if he thinks you're dead on. Unless you're not hitting the right window, this is him just feeding your ego.
  5. > @JerryTBall said: > > @matchavez said: > > > @JerryTBall said: > > > Cardi, when I had my BP’s, I did not even think about swing weight, as I naïvely thought they come with what ping makes them, that’s the science they had behind them and made them a great club! So mine came SW 0, guess that is stock. So say my 919’s come in with a certain SW, say 2, and the shafts work well for them. Should I order a set of BP’s if I want to go down that road again with that same setup? Just looking for humble opinions! > > Jerry, stock is D2. Make sure whoever enters them gets that put in the computer correctly. Otherwise, there's a lot more variance. Mine luckily were less than a point off -- all of them came in about d1.3, so I was ok with it. But I also noticed DD didn't enter the weights explicitly except for one wedge. Sure enough, that wedge was d4.0. It's all a matter of getting **exactly** what you want onto the build ticket. > > > Mat, > I found and interesting article, never heard this before........ > MOI Matching as an Alternative to Swing Weight Matched Clubs > Matching all clubs in a set to their MOI has become a viable alternative to swing weight matching for many golfers. MOI matching may also be thought of roughly as building the clubs in a set to progressively increase swing weights from long to short irons in the set. > > Candidates for MOI matching over swing weight matching can be golfers who: > > Go in and out of consistency issues with the irons > Suffer from occasional-to-frequent bouts of pulling short iron shots offline > Sense less comfort and consistency with the short irons vs other irons in the set There is at least one monster thread on this. It's a reasonable approach. If you want to make it easy on yourself, just order everything in 0.5sw increases. Thus your 5 is a d2, 6 is d2.5, etc until you get to your PW. It's not perfect, but I'm not sure it's worth it. I've tried it myself, and I found it to be ok -- but don't go to any great lengths to do it. After you MOI, then you start to wonder why you're not SLI, then your grips... then suddenly you have a case of the Chambeaus.
  6. > @drvrwdge said: > The whole 2 weight thing may work but.... > Charge your phone.
  7. > @JerryTBall said: > Cardi, when I had my BP’s, I did not even think about swing weight, as I naïvely thought they come with what ping makes them, that’s the science they had behind them and made them a great club! So mine came SW 0, guess that is stock. So say my 919’s come in with a certain SW, say 2, and the shafts work well for them. Should I order a set of BP’s if I want to go down that road again with that same setup? Just looking for humble opinions! Jerry, stock is D2. Make sure whoever enters them gets that put in the computer correctly. Otherwise, there's a lot more variance. Mine luckily were less than a point off -- all of them came in about d1.3, so I was ok with it. But I also noticed DD didn't enter the weights explicitly except for one wedge. Sure enough, that wedge was d4.0. It's all a matter of getting **exactly** what you want onto the build ticket.
  8. A couple things... first, you need a club that you can hit consistently. If that's a 3, 5, DI, whatever... you need an advancement club. Second, a 3 wood will roll out, where a 5 wood will spin and stop. If you're getting the same distances, you've got something going on that is amiss. Maybe you're just confident with that 5 wood. Finally, the reason you stop at a 4-iron and not play a 3 is you can't elevate a 3-iron enough. Smart play. That's the nice part about a 19h; it's versatile, and it can "rescue" you in a lot of odd situations. If it were me, I'd _take the shaft out of the 5, play it in the 3w head_, then I'd play the 19h or if you play in windy conditions, get a "chunky" low-flying iron for rollout. (Remember, those chunky 'driving' irons are not stop and holds.)
  9. I saw this electric cart in their catalog, but I haven't been able to find any information about it. Do these exist in the wild?
  10. > @cardoustie said: > My bud at the course had his come in > Lefty 2-p > Orange dot > X7 hard stepped twice ... plus 1/2” > My man card was stolen, his ball speed is off the charts > So you play golf with Thor?
  11. In short, you just bunch them all up and pull the string? Interesting. Would be handy for bags in the car for those not willing to put individual covers on. TIL-GolfWRX
  12. So I see these things are "iron covers"… Say what? It's a huge neoprene thing... is it for one? Or more? Any pictures of what the idea is?
  13. > With no CTP would Ping use the toe and hosel weights to increase SW? Yes. That is exactly what they do.
  14. Ugh. The point is walking. If you want to have a fully automated push cart for your bag, fine. But the lack of walking **is** the problem. Not talking about necessary mobility assistance, either.
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