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  1. I have 50+ rounds on a set of gapper=T, w-6=P and 5=xp. Would be very comfortable with P all the way. I have played and built everything. These are best for me. Lots of sets at my club...
  2. I have played in GA and FL for a long time. Here is what I do: -if its over 85*, ride don't walk -drink water, add NUUM or electrolytes -rotate gloves -don't play from 11-3, that is for tourists -absolutely wear a white hat, absolutely wear sunglasses -don't wear anything with cotton in it -use aquifor or vas for potential chafe areas -play FAST, don't dawdle -build in some cool-down time afterward, like couch time, shower, pool, etc.
  3. Well, what feels smooth during transition depends on how smooth your transition! If you are asking that question you are likely wanting a butt-soft iron shaft. I would recommend the old tried and true Dynamic Gold. Not exotic, but effective. Lots of guys have cashed lots of checks playing DG.
  4. Lots of info on these shafts from those who play them. I have hit all three. TT will be pretty similar. The biggest drawback on the Elevate is lack of feel. Modus 105 has plenty of feel, but will feel stiffer due to the butt section being stiffer than TT Elevate. You might like Elevate better, but I would bet Modus 105 would offer tighter dispersion. I played Modus 105 several years, really liked it.
  5. Can you buy some launch??
  6. sounds like your fitting was conducted by someone with an "opinion" and not "knowledge." Driver negative AOA is definitely not uncommon
  7. azone

    M2 vs M5

    I have played both. this comment is 100%. I play the m5 with a lower-launching shaft and it has flattened the trajectory.
  8. I have an original and agree about the quality. You can make a good truth board pretty easy.
  9. ok, I have stopped laughing. Wedge groove edges "roll over" from ball impact pretty quickly. five minutes, once a month, will take care of maintaining those wedges; get a hardened, inexpensive tool for the job. Now, at your level of play, it should be obvious that technique is more important than the "freshness" of the grooves-- but after 14 years of practice, I bet the faces of your wedges have become slightly concave--check that with a straightedge across the face. Concave face = no good, get some new wedges. The grips aren't 14 years old, are they?
  10. someone has messed with your heads. use your calipers (you can measure the inside diameter of the hosel) and you will find out what is going on. Because of the distribution/build of miura heads, you should have a tight fit to the shaft unless they have been altered/reshafted/abused by "hobby" rebuild.
  11. You can reach a very quick assessment by: go to your fitte/builder. Hit, in same session, your old 7 iron; your new 7 iron; and the FITTING 7 IRON WHICH WAS USED TO MAKE THE BUILD DECISION. Data is good, but comparing data is better. When you compare the results of hitting each of these irons at the same session, with the same balls, you will have your answer.
  12. forget the tip weights. tungsten powder, dab of epoxy on cork, ram it down. You want it stable with an exact swing weight, don't you?
  13. Everyone has an opinion, here is mine. If you are/have been a good ball striker with a sound mental game, your mind will keep writing checks your body may not be able to cash as you get older or don't practice enough. Those "ugly" forgiving irons look beautiful when a miss ends up on the green and you are putting-- not in rough or deep in a short side bunker. Those irons won't be AS ACCURATE as, say, a blade, BUT if you aren't as dependable as in the past, your results will be better. I used to keep two sets of blueprinted irons; blades for practice and CB for play. I play with guys that
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