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Snowman9000

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  1. Okay, yes, we are saying the same thing. Where ever the face points at setup is where it measures from. So if you set up open face, and come back to square at impact, it's going to say you are closed face at impact. Right? For the price, it seems like it would be worth it. As you say, checking the starting position is possible in a low tech way. I wonder if it works with armlocking...... I should write them and ask.
  2. I am interested the the Blast Motion sensor and app for swings and putting. More so for chipping and putting than for bigger swings. I've searched and there doesn't seem to be much recent content here. I gather that the app has greatly improved, so I am looking to hear the latest on how this is working for you, or not. Thanks.
  3. I’ll say it’s 90% looks and 10% real effect. See if it shows in this photo.
  4. I know this is not timely, but it looks to me that if you don’t have the face square at address, a square face at impact will read as not square. It must assume your starting point is square. Yes?
  5. Thanks. What benefit is derived from keeping the putter head low?
  6. How to keep the putter head low without some extra movements?
  7. I go through the same number as Fred Couples does. Zero.
  8. To clarify, the book being asked about has no information about the specific green you are playing on. It lists the inches of break at 5/10/15/20 feet for 1/2/3/4% slopes from certain clock positions, for a given stimp number. It’s up to the golfer to come up with those factors for the putt at hand. Which is a lot easier than I’m making it sound, haha. The hardest is the % slope, but I imagine experienced users nail that quickly.
  9. I’m very interested to know what other shafts are close matches to the Fuji Atmos Red. Thanks!
  10. No it’s the tool, not the craftsman. Its not the one for you, and that should be obvious. Okay that sounds harsh, but I’m on the run.
  11. M4. The stock made for Atmos shaft is just perfect for me. The twist face works great on toe or heel hits. I’ve never driven better. Interestingly, the M4 has an unusually high COG. And the shaft has an unusually large difference in stiffness between the stiff butt and soft tip. So it’s really a unicorn and I can see why it would not be for everybody.
  12. The higher loft the club, the more it matters. A one degree lie difference in a wedge is very noticeable over enough shots. Plus you'll adjust to the clubs in bad ways.
  13. Just moved to Texas from the north. 11 cap so not as precise as some of you. Around the greens, I have had to stop trying to slide the bounce. That’s a disaster here. Rather than trying to hit delofted SW or LW, I am having much better results using old fashioned chips with less loft. Ball near back foot, toe down somewhat, hands always leading. Often better to trundle up a slope with a PW to a close pin than to fly it up top. For more height, play it more forward, open stance, face open, hands still ahead of ball. @ThinkingPlus mentioned the face open, hands ahead thing. Even flops need the hands ahead, but with more opening of the face. These are all pretty shallow. I’m practicing a lot, on the grabbiest tight dormant lies. These shallow, hands leading shots work for me.
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