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robert horneman

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Everything posted by robert horneman

  1. All of your clubs need refinishing badly! Do not hesitate. Then post pics when they are finished.
  2. Golfworks has a 471/2" drill for $17.99. Do not try to carve around the pin. You will just make a mess of it.
  3. I suggest you post this in the clubmaking section. Howard Jones would be an excellent source to make suggestions for you.
  4. GOLFWORKS have an excellent line of epoxies. If you only do a few clubs at a time, HARDMAN are also excellent.
  5. Neat to see the SPALDING STORY. They were proud that they're the only ones to cut thru insert screws! YUCK
  6. Excellent step by step process deejaid. Original poster should able to do it. There are some very good vids on You Tube that may also help.
  7. Make shims out of aluminum cans. Also check Golfworks. They used to carry various adapters for this purpose.
  8. This is an easy repair. Soleplate is loose and should be reset. Reuse the shaft and you are ready to go. Lots of people on this site can fix it.
  9. Stixman very interesting method to repair a cracked head. Where do you get the West System Epoxy?
  10. Hi stixman, no problem squeezing epoxy into a neck crack. What is your method of epoxying a crack in the head?
  11. Neck cracks are repairable. When a crack goes down into the head it is toast. It would be a fun project to refinish the club and hang it on a wall.
  12. The insert is in decent shape. I suggest removing the ugly screw. I doubt that it was original. Clean the screw holes then fill them with black epoxy. You may want to replace all of the dowels.You can either put wood dowels where the screws were or leave them blank. I would not replace the screw holes with dowels. The insert and soleplate need to be removed and reset. The hard part of this project will be rescoring the face lines.
  13. You need a vise and a rubber shaft clamp. If you are reusing the shaft you will need a 48" steel rod. If you are not saving the shaft, cut it off about 6" above the top of the hosel. You can use a shorter piece of rod. Ping epoxy requires a lot of heat. Clamp the shaft very tight in the vise. Heat the tip of the rod red hot about 4" long. Insert the rod all the way down.Leave it in for about 15 seconds.Try twisting the head. If it doesn't come loose repeat the process. You may need to repeat several times. Don't try to heat the wood from the outside!
  14. James, That club has been worked on by someone who did very poor workmanship.
  15. Pic # 2 is a great example why insert screws should never be cut thru.
  16. Obviously the club has been worked on before. Looks like the insert is loose all the way around.I would attempt to remove it. I have some white insert material that I would be glad to send to you. I also have some Reed and Prince screws that I can send. Send a PM and let me know. If you can't remove the insert ,you can try to pry up the white piece. or do as mocokid suggests.
  17. SteveNZ the insert on the club you are showing is a different type. The Toney Penna insert has a V shape on the back. mocked. Good advice using clear epoxy with a putty dam and removing the screws.
  18. raggal62 has it right. This is a perfect example of why inserts and soleplates should be reset when refinishing. This club is a candidate for a complete refinish.
  19. I would like to know about the filler Dave mentioned. Name of the store and Brand of filler.
  20. I would like to make a few suggestions. Please don't take them as negative criticisms or nit picking. It doesn't appear that you reset the soleplate or insert. This step is VERY important. Looks like you did not replace the whipping lots of whipping available on e bay or I can send you enough to do this club.Doesn't look like you used a wood filler. This is also an important step.Your paint fills a very good. I like the Satin finish on these older clubs. Did you use a Poly or Tung oil finish?
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