Jump to content


Advanced Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

775 Excellent

1 Follower

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I’m finally getting this set ready to play. The swingweights are all over the place with them all being very light so going to put some lead weight down the shafts and go with some lighter grips. These are early 80’s so I’m wondering if the heads were made light due to the super light swingweight craze of the period. These were owned and played by PGA tour pro Jerry McGee in he early 80’s. I don’t know if he played them on tour or not as he quit the tour in 81 to take a club pro job. Spalding made these from 1980-84 so a good chance they were on tour. The heads have a
  2. I think the Ft. Worth’s are the best Hogan iron ever, great clubs. I just have too much stuff I need to move some things on to new owners.
  3. A few of you stepped up and bought a few sets of from me to see if you were good enough to play blades a few months ago. I can honestly say those guys are now playing the best golf of their lives! So its time for more WRXers to find out if they are good enough to play blades. First off. a beautiful full set of Hogan Ft. Worth for sale with Modus 120 X flex shafts and new Golf Pride grips. Probably the nicest set you’ll find as the clubs are in very good condition with just light wear. Clubs are standard length Set consists of: 21* (bent to 20*) 3-
  4. Well, you can buy them and store them. We are all going to need senior flex at some point!
  5. I am looking for a set of original KZG cavity back and KZG blades in as clean condition as possible. 3-GW. Please PM if you have some available. Thanks
  6. I have been day dreaming about these as well, absolutely beautiful. I am kind of in a tough spot but probably normal for a WRXer. I hit my Peerless Palmer blades better than anything I’ve ever played. I have complete confidence in them. When I am playing I feel I can hit any shot I need. But when I come home and just look at my bag I feel like I have grandpa blades. The Peerless aren’t sexy at all. I think how much better the Haywood 100’s would look. But $1500 for an unknown compared to the $100 I have in my Palmers that do what I want?....I guess I’ll have to stick with m
  7. Very cool clubs you’ve found there, but I’d highly advise against bending them stronger. Vintage irons from that era usually have very little bounce and bending them stronger is going to make them tougher to play. Like NYJyzr mentioned, that 7-iron is almost guaranteed to be in the 38*-40* range, no way you’ll get them bent to 34* and still be playable. You need to look at classic clubs and your expectations of them a bit differently. You won’t be hitting 200 yard 7-irons with them and you won’t want to when you have only a pitching wedge and sand wedge instead of 5 wedges. Bu
  8. Looking for a Maxfli A10 Tour Limited sand wedge in clean condition. Please PM if available.
  9. As Socrates said, early clubs used lower quality epoxy or even none at all so the screws were a necessity. Once epoxies became stronger the screws were no longer needed but often still used for aesthetics. From a collectibility standpoint clubs with screws are better as the 1950’s is the golden age of persimmon woods. Playability is a different story. An insert solidly seated and affixed with epoxy will perform better and have a more solid feel during the strike than a club with an insert simply attached by screws.
  10. I’d say pre-1980’s for irons, pre-1990 for woods. If someone wants to use an 80’s era steel head wood let them, they will have no advantage over someone playing persimmon from the same era. 80’s era irons on the other hand were really starting to make the game easier for many players not just due to perimeter weighting but sole grind differences as well. Add a stroke for any Ping in the bag. Karsten irons instead of blades? +1. Ping Anser instead of an old Bullseye? +1. It will help keep the spirit of the event by hopefully getting people to play simple blade irons and basic p
  11. I always bought it to flip, just didn’t think it would be this quickly... I sold off a number of iron sets recently and it felt good to make some space. I bought the LFF, hit it once, and into storage it went, it should go to someone that really loves Mac woods. But what really made me decide to sell now is the drought we are having here. It is forecasted to be another terrible fire season in California. We were evacuated last year for a week. We pack my wife’s car and our minivan with whatever we can and go. Last year the was no room for any of my clubs. I grab
  12. I prefer the term all-original, not rough. And that LFF on ebay is mine, so have everyone bid it up!
  13. From Ping’s website circa 1998.
  14. I’d say it’s a plus to have them 1/2” longer, that puts them closer to modern standard length. I’d try playing them first as-is. If you then decide they are too long go ahead and cut the grips off. If there are extensions under the grip they have been lengthened. If there is no extension then they were custom length from the factory. If there are extensions to be removed you just need to heat and pull using a heat gut or torch. The torch will discolor the shaft though but it will be under the grip. Obviously have the club secured in a vise and pull the extension out using a
  15. Being a set of 1,3,5 I’d guess 1970’s. But that’s just a guess.
  • Create New...