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DaveGoodrich

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  1. I use my 58-12 SM4 (bent to 57-11) for most work around the green. They called that an M grind back then, but this is basically equivalent to the newer D grind vokeys, as the newer M grinds are 8ish degrees of bounce. It's very forgiving out of rough and soft lies. It has a some bounce to spare, even when hitting low spinners with some forward shaft lean. I also carry a 60-04 T grind, but it tends to come out only for bare lies, hardpan, and firm bunkers (which are common at the courses I play).
  2. You can hit solid, pretty shots with significantly less speed than "the low teens." I think you are good for a while...
  3. Most of my sets are MBs or Player's CBs with "modern" lofts (46* PW). I like 5* loft gaps between my mid irons (5, 6, 7), which I achieve by bending my short irons a couple degrees weak so the set PW becomes 48*. If I was playing larger GI or SGI irons with a 44ish* PW, I would probably go to a 48* vokey as my "real" PW (you know, the one I "pitch" with).
  4. I don't like having a large gap between my PW and my gap wedge, for the reasons the OP stated (not enough height or spin with a "knockdown" PW on firm greens). Also, I'd rather not have to routinely hit "partial" shots from that distance, as I have these distances a lot. My wedges are 48* set PW, 53* set GW, 57* (high bounce) SW, and 60* (low bounce) LW. The 5* between the PW and the GW still produces about a 12 yard gap on "full" swings. I'd rather my "partials" be between the gap wedge and the sand wedge, since I don't really like hitting the 57* with a full swing, and I stil
  5. OP, I'd work on producing more "traj," not more spin, to stop the ball on firm greens from these distances. I just think depending on spin alone is just not as likely to produce as consistent results as using more moderate spin and a higher descent angle to stop the ball. If the pin isn't tucked in front, 40 to 70 yards is a straightforward 57* for me. I don't "intend" to flight the ball down or generate spin. I just make a smooth, partial swing, with the face essentially square (or maybe just slightly open if the lie calls for a little more bounce). This produces medium height
  6. Good golf can be played with the set you have. I'd probably work hard at finding a recent driver you can hit well. Technology has made the biggest difference there (and what you need for the rest of your set will depend on where you end up after your tee shot). I'd play a bunch of golf before making other decisions. You need to know your game before you can know what you need/want.
  7. Funny how different we all are. I find hybrids to be really versatile, and easier to hit than either long irons or fairway woods. I carry 16* and 20* "fairway wood-like" hybrids, and 23* and 26* "iron-like" hybrids. No fairway woods, and my first iron is my 6. It shouldn't surprise anyone that it takes some experimentation to find clubs that we can hit consistently well at the long end of our bags. Long clubs are inherently harder to hit, and emphasize our swing idiosyncrasies ("flaws"). Fortunately the category goes all the way from "almost fairway woods" to "almost irons." So
  8. Clearly, every player needs to determine the "crossover" point where they need more help than a GI iron can give them. The point I was intending to make is that, for slower swingers, larger loft gaps between the longest irons a given player chooses to keep in the bag can be useful to maintain yardage gaps. Personally, my 5 and 6 irons are my "long irons." I have a 4 degree gap between my 5 and 6, and 5 degree gaps between my 6, 7, and 8 irons. At my speed, that yields about 12-13 yard gaps, and it frees up a spot in the bag for another wedge.
  9. Well, it is true that there is no "standard." You can certainly make an argument that the number/loft relationship is arbitrary for the numbered irons. But the numbers "run out" at the short end, and words/labels should mean something. The idea that the pitching wedge is now often two clubs too strong to actually be useful for pitching is where I have a problem. So putting a "5" on a 3-iron doesn't bother me nearly as much as putting a "P" on an 8-iron. There is no actual reason for the gap that we now need gap wedges to fill, other than marketing. "3 - P" is a sensible naming convent
  10. Hence the "imo, of course." If the L works for you, that's great. The T is similar to the V in the sense that the forward bounce surface is narrow, so the bounce doesn't come up that much when laid open. The T has heel and toe relief though, so its different in that respect. It should play with lower effective bounce than the V.
  11. On 2006, I was 45 and just taking up golf seriously. My first "real" set of irons were also DCI 981's, bought off craigslist. Still have the heads on a shelf in the shop.
  12. You can use these: https://www.golfworks.com/bore-through-shaft-pins/p/btspgv/. Apply epoxy, tap it in, wipe off excess. Then after it has cured, cut flush with a sharp knife and smooth with some acetone on a rag.
  13. I don't know anything about your current shaft, but the Prolaunch Blue R would be expected to produce a pretty high launch in a 4 wood. Will you extend it back to more typical length? If not, you may need to add some head weight to get the swing weight where it works best for you.
  14. Looks like it. The Wedgeworks page for the T text says its available in Raw or Tour Chrome, but the drop down selection box only includes Tour Chrome.
  15. IMO, T is the perfect club for those lies. A shallow swing just slides along the turf under the ball, with no divot, and it comes out high and soft, with some check. And the leading edge doesn't come up much when laying the face open (especially compared to the L), so it's great for little "mini-flops" to close pins from those lies. The T is pretty similar to the V grind, in that it has a decent amount of bounce on the forward bounce surface, but that surface is narrow, so the leading edge doesn't come up a lot when it is laid back.
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