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  1. I play the XTD Forged. They are great irons. I can't compare directly to other newer hollow body irons, since I haven't hit those. They aren't "jacked" by recent standards, and don't really see them as trying to be "distance" irons. But they launch easily, even in the long irons, despite their bladish looks. For moderate and slow swingers, that probably makes them "long" compared to low-tech one piece forgings. And I have no issues with "hot spots" etc., causing distance inconsistencies. A
  2. Damn, I was just looking at my 735.cm's in the shop and thinking I should take them out for a spin. Coolest looking set I own, and I own a few... Edit: took 'em to the range today, and of course, hit them great. I forgot how good they feel. The long irons are really easy to hit high, and the 8 - PW are basically all wedges, easy to flight up/down. Good luck finding a modern replacement.
  3. I assume that if tour van knows a player likes a specific swing weight, using a specific grip, then they use that grip when swing weighting that player's clubs. This is probably more about matching existing clubs, or matching clubs used in fitting sessions etc., not about hitting a specific SW number. That doesn't mean an OEM does it this way when building a set for an unknown customer. Swing weighting using a standard grip (or no grip, as Howard recommends), makes total sense. It takes the variability in the grip weights, and grip cap thickness, out of the equation when gettin
  4. I don't advocate the swing thought: "slow down the swing." That does sound like fear. I'm suggesting trying a shortened swing (I'm talking about a bit longer than a 9-3 swing) with the intent of making solid contact and starting the ball on line. Choking up a couple inches means you are hitting a 3 wood with a giant face, with lower spin so it doesn't curve as much, and at a lower trajectory so it stays on the course when you miss and rolls out when you don't. Shortening the driver swing isn't "fear" any more than being "afraid" to hit driver at all. Learn to hit dr
  5. Yep, search "bunt driver" and you will find some posts on the topic. Choke up a little, think "good contact" not "speed." A shortened back swing will naturally take some speed off, but as @nitram says, make sure you still accelerate through the ball and finish your swing. There is a good chance that, if you can master this swing, you will be able to gradually add speed and eventually be able to keep your "full swing" driver in play too.
  6. I second the recommendation for the small Adams hybrids. I play the Pro Mini, which is essentially the same as the Super 9031 that @joostin plays. I completely agree with everything he said: I built my 23* with the same shaft as my irons, and at standard 4i length. I play the 26* as my 5i too. They play like irons, but are really easy to hit, and versatile.
  7. I put a YS-6+ in the $30 T-Rail 7-wood and played it on Sunday to promising effect. I only hit it three times. The first was on a Par 3 with 185 to a front pin. I hit a high ball to about 15 feet left of the pin, where it stopped within a few feet of where it landed, despite the greens being firm. Made the putt. So far so good. The second shot was from the fairway on a Par 5, about 195 out, slightly downwind. I hoisted one up there to ride the wind, but pulled it just left into the greenside bunker, just short of pin high. I'm also ok with that. The third was out of a long fairway bu
  8. Thanks for your input. Shorter shafts, yes. Higher lofts, no. My 2H is 16* with a titanium cup face. Not exactly higher loft at the top end. It is basically a cross between a 3 wood and a driving iron, and is extremely effective in this role. The 7-wood has about the same loft as the hybrid I would be replacing, so I am actually talking about going with a longer shaft at the same loft. Nonsense. Shorter shaft length and higher loft make a 7W much easier to hit. Nope. 2H is easier to flight low or high, easier to shape left/r
  9. OK, Roger Dunn had 5 or 6 7-woods, but most were in pretty crappy shape. They had a Ping G-something (can't remember) but it was really beat up. Also had a Cobra S3-max, but it had a lot of offset, which really looked bad to me. I liked the look of a TS2 the best, mostly because the head was a little smaller than the rest. But they wanted $200, which seemed crazy considering it wasn't really clean. I've seen several of those (and 917F's) on ebay for around $150 that were in better condition. Just so I have something to try, I ended up picking up a Cobra Baffler T-Rail for my
  10. Thanks for all the responses and suggestions. You've done your job as good WRXers and validated my desire to buy more equipment . Since I haven't played with 7-woods in the past, I don't really know what I'm looking for (other than high, accurate, and soft-landing), so any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm not looking for the latest releases for an experiment like this. I'd love to find something in the $100 to $150 range. I'm a fader, so don't want anything too fade-biased (but as a left-to-right guy, one thing that intrigues me about a 7-wood would be the po
  11. I use my 16* XCG hybrid in the place of a 3 wood. For me, this club is mostly for advancing the ball as far as possible off the deck and for occasional use from the tee. I hit it well, and I'm done trying to find a fairway wood that will work better for me in that role. I'm not looking for suggestions for this spot in the bag. But the next club in the bag is the one I'm really looking for. Basically, a club for the longest Par 3's, and for long approaches into the green from the fairway. I have always played hybrids, and I'm currrently experimenting with several 18 to 21* hybri
  12. I would say yes, that is an M grind. If you bend it to 60, it will have a couple more degrees of bounce, making it sort of between an M, and what is now called the D grind. Regardless of whether you bend it or not, it should be a good grind for a shallow swing on soft turf. If you tended to be steep, I'd say you would want more bounce. It won't be conforming though.
  13. I doubt the percentage of folks that could do something useful with a 20* iron "back in the day" was really any higher than it is now, so I don't really think it is a "lost art." Basic ballistics tells us that low launch at low speed adds up to low flight, short carry distance, and shallow descent angles. So I suspect many "pre-hybrid era" golfers never hit long irons well either, and used high-lofted woods instead. We just have better options now.
  14. Dirt is cheap, moving it is expensive (you can almost always find "free" fill dirt, if you are willing to go get it).
  15. I follow @Dan Drake's general concept. I typically bend my mid-irons to 5* gaps in order to allow tighter gaps (more wedges) at the short end, while still covering the long end with reasonable gaps. Like @juststeve, I determined my yardages during actual play (basically, compare my lasered yardages to my pitch marks) to decide where I needed to bring hybrids into the equation.
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