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Everything posted by DaveGoodrich

  1. The Exotics fairways are (deservedly) talked up a lot around here in threads like this. But don't sleep on their older hybrids either. My original XCG 16* hybrid is such a great club. 2008 titanium cup-face technology. Long, versatile, easy to hit. Have tried multiple times, on and off, to replace it with various fairway woods, and it just won't give up its spot in the bag.
  2. If you have a shallow swing, then an 8* M grind, opened up, is probably a reasonable amount of bounce.
  3. PB&J and Coors Light has always worked for me.
  4. Let's just say I'm better at buying than selling. I pretty much only buy older heads and shafts to experiment with. But it does tend to build up over time. My garage looks like the used section at Roger Dunn.
  5. IMO, the issue of "forgiveness" with a lob wedge depends more on the sole design and bounce than in does on the loft. Low bounce lob wedges just don't forgive low-point control errors from most lies. But if you use a lob wedge with a decent amount of bounce for the conditions (and use a technique that uses that bounce), they aren't that scary. And if you carry a low bounce lob wedge, as I do, you need to be disciplined about when you use it.
  6. Agree, not a exotic club. But whatever, here she is...
  7. I have a couple combo sets. One is a Titleist 735cm set. That set is 3-7 CB, 8-PW blades. Lots of guys say they'd rather have the 7 as a blade too, but I'm ok as they are. I love both ends of this set. Truly great and underated irons. Long irons go high, short irons don't. My other combo set is an Adams 3 set combo I put together myself: CB3: 3, 4, 5 CB1: 6, 7 Pro Black MB: 8-PW All with RIP Tour 115 shafts. Bent to 5* loft gaps, which didn't take much bending with this setup. I mostly just play the 5-PW. For me, combo sets make a lot
  8. Sometimes air just can't remove well-glued grips. A sleeve can keep the grip from blowing up in your face, but you still sometimes just can't get the grip to come off without getting some solvent in there to soften the glue. IMO, if they are that much work, they aren't worth saving.
  9. All steel shafts are definitely not the same weight. Most vokeys I have reshafted haven't had tip weights. You'll know it if it does.
  10. Reshafting is pretty easy, especially if using steel shafts. But the question you are asking isn't really about building the club, but rather fitting the club to your swing. Tip weights are used from the factory to adjust the head weight so that the the resulting swing weight is something thought to work for a broad spectrum of "typical" players. But when you go to a different shaft, the stock swing weight may not produce the feel/performance you want since the total weight, and the weight distribution along the shaft (balance point), will be different. And the existing tip weight wouldn't
  11. The reduction in swing weight will mostly be a result of the shorter shaft (basically, reducing the "leverage" that multiplies the head weight), not the loss of weight in the butt, which will still be pretty minimal, even with a counterbalanced shaft. So I would think the 3 sw points per 1/2" should still be close.
  12. Go "old school" and pick up an Aldila NV 105 hybrid shaft from ebay.
  13. Are you pushing the button once to turn it on, and then again when shooting the flag? I only struggle getting a fix on the flag with my NX7 pro when I am 220+ out from the hole, and even then, it works, I just have to make more of an effort to be steady. Shooting larger targets (trees, bunkers, etc.), I easily get a fix out to at least 300. Good luck!
  14. I play the XTD Forged. They are great irons. I can't compare directly to other newer hollow body irons, since I haven't hit those. They aren't "jacked" by recent standards, and don't really see them as trying to be "distance" irons. But they launch easily, even in the long irons, despite their bladish looks. For moderate and slow swingers, that probably makes them "long" compared to low-tech one piece forgings. And I have no issues with "hot spots" etc., causing distance inconsistencies. A
  15. Damn, I was just looking at my 735.cm's in the shop and thinking I should take them out for a spin. Coolest looking set I own, and I own a few... Edit: took 'em to the range today, and of course, hit them great. I forgot how good they feel. The long irons are really easy to hit high, and the 8 - PW are basically all wedges, easy to flight up/down. Good luck finding a modern replacement.
  16. I assume that if tour van knows a player likes a specific swing weight, using a specific grip, then they use that grip when swing weighting that player's clubs. This is probably more about matching existing clubs, or matching clubs used in fitting sessions etc., not about hitting a specific SW number. That doesn't mean an OEM does it this way when building a set for an unknown customer. Swing weighting using a standard grip (or no grip, as Howard recommends), makes total sense. It takes the variability in the grip weights, and grip cap thickness, out of the equation when gettin
  17. I don't advocate the swing thought: "slow down the swing." That does sound like fear. I'm suggesting trying a shortened swing (I'm talking about a bit longer than a 9-3 swing) with the intent of making solid contact and starting the ball on line. Choking up a couple inches means you are hitting a 3 wood with a giant face, with lower spin so it doesn't curve as much, and at a lower trajectory so it stays on the course when you miss and rolls out when you don't. Shortening the driver swing isn't "fear" any more than being "afraid" to hit driver at all. Learn to hit dr
  18. Yep, search "bunt driver" and you will find some posts on the topic. Choke up a little, think "good contact" not "speed." A shortened back swing will naturally take some speed off, but as @nitram says, make sure you still accelerate through the ball and finish your swing. There is a good chance that, if you can master this swing, you will be able to gradually add speed and eventually be able to keep your "full swing" driver in play too.
  19. I second the recommendation for the small Adams hybrids. I play the Pro Mini, which is essentially the same as the Super 9031 that @joostin plays. I completely agree with everything he said: I built my 23* with the same shaft as my irons, and at standard 4i length. I play the 26* as my 5i too. They play like irons, but are really easy to hit, and versatile.
  20. I put a YS-6+ in the $30 T-Rail 7-wood and played it on Sunday to promising effect. I only hit it three times. The first was on a Par 3 with 185 to a front pin. I hit a high ball to about 15 feet left of the pin, where it stopped within a few feet of where it landed, despite the greens being firm. Made the putt. So far so good. The second shot was from the fairway on a Par 5, about 195 out, slightly downwind. I hoisted one up there to ride the wind, but pulled it just left into the greenside bunker, just short of pin high. I'm also ok with that. The third was out of a long fairway bu
  21. Thanks for your input. Shorter shafts, yes. Higher lofts, no. My 2H is 16* with a titanium cup face. Not exactly higher loft at the top end. It is basically a cross between a 3 wood and a driving iron, and is extremely effective in this role. The 7-wood has about the same loft as the hybrid I would be replacing, so I am actually talking about going with a longer shaft at the same loft. Nonsense. Shorter shaft length and higher loft make a 7W much easier to hit. Nope. 2H is easier to flight low or high, easier to shape left/r
  22. OK, Roger Dunn had 5 or 6 7-woods, but most were in pretty crappy shape. They had a Ping G-something (can't remember) but it was really beat up. Also had a Cobra S3-max, but it had a lot of offset, which really looked bad to me. I liked the look of a TS2 the best, mostly because the head was a little smaller than the rest. But they wanted $200, which seemed crazy considering it wasn't really clean. I've seen several of those (and 917F's) on ebay for around $150 that were in better condition. Just so I have something to try, I ended up picking up a Cobra Baffler T-Rail for my
  23. Thanks for all the responses and suggestions. You've done your job as good WRXers and validated my desire to buy more equipment . Since I haven't played with 7-woods in the past, I don't really know what I'm looking for (other than high, accurate, and soft-landing), so any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm not looking for the latest releases for an experiment like this. I'd love to find something in the $100 to $150 range. I'm a fader, so don't want anything too fade-biased (but as a left-to-right guy, one thing that intrigues me about a 7-wood would be the po
  24. I use my 16* XCG hybrid in the place of a 3 wood. For me, this club is mostly for advancing the ball as far as possible off the deck and for occasional use from the tee. I hit it well, and I'm done trying to find a fairway wood that will work better for me in that role. I'm not looking for suggestions for this spot in the bag. But the next club in the bag is the one I'm really looking for. Basically, a club for the longest Par 3's, and for long approaches into the green from the fairway. I have always played hybrids, and I'm currrently experimenting with several 18 to 21* hybri
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