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About RolandofGilead

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    Long days and pleasant nights.

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    Burque, NM

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  1. Of the DTC options: the New Level 902, Sub 70 639CB, and Ben Hogan PTx Pro are good options for your handicap range. You may even combo with more demanding models at the short end - my brother plays a 639 CB/MB set as a 10 index and loves them. All have pros and cons and you can demo them at home for $20. Highly worthwhile to demo and plenty of reviews around this forum. Good luck!
  2. Ben Hogan PTx Pro (red), Sub 70 639CB (black 6), and New Level 902 (7).
  3. It depends on what you want. I play a full set of 902s with no regrets as a 4 index. Feel is 10/10. These heads are high launching so flighting shots low is not as easy as others. Otherwise all aspects of performance are excellent. The pre-worn leading edge is great on the the short irons because it keeps from digging too much. There is a lot of offset compared to other players short irons but it doesn’t bother me. Overall I think the forgiveness across the face is better for my short iron game than anything I might be missing.
  4. Sorry for threadjacking but are you open to other iron suggestions? New Level 902 is very similar to those Bridgestone pocket cavities (J15/36/38/40) and they offer plenty of shaft choices at low DTC prices.
  5. I just tip trimmed my driver shaft to a playing length of 43.5”. Lost no distance on well struck shots. Also hit a lot more well struck shots. Lots of variables in my case.
  6. From a feel perspective, I would be surprised if the PTx Pro isn’t inferior. I hit the PTx Pro along side some single piece forged irons (PTx Pro are forged but multiple pieces stick together) and didn’t like the feel nearly as much. Performance was fine but I couldn’t get over the relatively hollow, empty feel. They are gorgeous irons though.
  7. I just finished tinkering with the components and details of these irons (for now). These are Royal Grip Perf Wrap grips and I replaced the paint fill with gold (I also removed paint from the iron # label and New Level hosel text but left them blank). Now, if only my swing would come around to match these babies. Top to bottom: as-received, paint removed, gold filled Head, shaft, and grip.
  8. I just got to hit my clubs with 6.0 shafts after tip trimming and I am really happy with the initial results. The updated specs are: Driver, Yellow 6.0: 1” tipped and 43.5” length (up from 1/4” tipped) 3W, Smoke Black 6.0: 1.5” tipped and 42” length (up from 1” tipped) These are quite short now. But I am only 5’ 8” and the shorter lengths felt pretty good. It seems likely that there is some synergy between the shaft adjustments and reduced club length. As far as the shaft stiffness goes: both shafts feel so, so much more stable through the downswing. Th
  9. Well, frugal folks like yours truly would argue that even those parts are optional. I do recommend actual grip solvent as I’ve had a hard time with alternatives. I’m sure there are threads devoted to re-gripping at home but the bare minimum you need is a blade (old grip removal), patience (for removing old tape), new double sided tape, solvent, and new grip. If you’ve got good counter space and strong hands, that should be all you need. I use a paint tray under the shaft to capture excess solvent.
  10. I can confirm that they feel identical in the 6-7 irons. Titleist probably went the AMT route to maximize playability for the masses - lighter weight in the long irons being the key. I doubt there’s anything more to it. Replacing the jumbo grips with standard weight will probably restore the feel you are used to but it depends on whether the previous owner did anything to manipulate swing weight. Switching a couple to start is a good idea. Re-gripping can be cheap if you do it yourself and buy cheaper grips - Star Grip and Royal Grip make high quality grips in the $4-7 range. Tape,
  11. Sounds like trusty UST Mamiya Proforce V2 might suit your needs. In the correct flex it is a medium trajectory and spin shaft.
  12. Awesome write up. I personally am glad to hear that both the 286 and JB wedges have rounded/blunt(?) leading edges (even in the low bounce option) as I find the resulting forgiveness on slightly ground-first contact to be extremely beneficial for most players. I was expecting the JB to have a sharper, more demanding profile and think that making it more playable was a smart move by Sub 70. I tend to think a myriad of grind options is overrated and a way for golf hobbyists to sound/feel smart, but that’s a different story. These wedges should be great performers across the spectrum.
  13. That CG progression from the horse’s mouth is a nice nugget for those deciding between forgings. Despite all being awesome irons, it’s kind of a weird lineup: 623: highest launch, most workability 902: middle launch, most forgiving PF2: lowest launch, less forgiving than 902, similar forgiveness to 623? The feel and forgiveness combination of the 902s is special - good luck with them. You can’t put a price on the ability to talk directly to the person who oversees design and assembly of your clubs. To me that far outweighs a few passive aggressive tweets.
  14. Ok that makes more sense. It sounds like you are losing quality of contact as clubs get longer, and that’s normal for us mortals. I suspect dialing in your swing will yield better results than chasing club changes - your swing has a lot of moving parts that need to sync up, and that’s just hard. In the meantime I would also look at reducing shaft length and see if that helps you find the center of the face more consistently.
  15. Two observations: 1. Your on-course driver distances are significantly greater than what you are reporting on the range and simulator(s). How confident are you in all of these distance estimates? Are you comparing good vs. good, average vs. average, etc.? You may have better dispersion with one and that could skew your conclusions. 2. An obvious cause for lower than expected driver distance is quality of contact. Others here have established the need to determine your smash factor. Have you used impact tape to correlate your good/bad drive distances with contact on the clu
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