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jjinsa

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  1. Hi all I am a 10/11 Handicap - but should be lower in my opinion. I am a long hitter and when I hit a good swing I am really accurate even with my distance. I have attached a side on video of a Driver swing after I have had some issues with slicing - It is a Slo-Mo, so please fast forward otherwise you will be watching a while. A few things I notice - left arm is bent at the top, and my head position sways back and forth on back swing and down swing (to note, I am also struggling with hitting it fat on my irons, often!). I recently had some lessons, and had my grip weakened, and my takeaway more above my hands rather than taking the club inside, which I think I have done well. so the issues my untrained eye sees, after watching videos is: 1. Left arm not straight 2. Head/weight rocking back and forth 3. Top of my glove not pointing at target at impact, it is pointing right of target and is flexed (thinking of the John Rahm and DJ videos showing bowed wrist at top of backswing). with irons it is really not much of an issue, I generally it straight. ** also to note, before lessons, I was used to draw/hook the ball as a miss** Golf swing 2.mp4
  2. Out of interest: I went to a golf "superstore" tried my current driver, vs Ping G425 Max and Mavrik Sub Zero - the Ping was a stiff shaft and the Mavrik a 70g X. Spin on my Driver currently - 3500 Ping - 2800 Mav SZ - 2400 distance on Mav SZ was about 30y more than current driver/shaft setup - quite incredible.
  3. Hi Everyone, in search of a new head for my Driver. Currently HCP index is 10.5, I have an old Cleveland Classic, 9.0deg with an Aldila RIP Phenom 70g X-Stiff, at stock length, with MCC +4 Grip. I want to keep the shaft and Grip, I like them. I hit it quite high, with quite a bit of spin, I had say more than average spin. My Swing speed is between 115 and 125mph on a driver I have done some reading on different Club heads, from 2020 onwards. Taylormade SIM/2 don't seem to have the forgiveness from the many videos I have watched, and the Ping G425 seems to be very "straight". With that said, it also seems the "max" version on all the Drivers is always the most forgiving, but hits it higher and with a bit more spin. I have a lack of true quality club fitters in Durban, South Africa that have good knowledge of swing mechanics and different club/shaft models and brands, hence I keep coming to this forum. I am going to do Howards DIY driver fitting at the range soon, to assess many things, but still keen to know about club head recommendations. Callaway EPIC also seems to be Popular I am interested in from a club fitting point of view, has anyone got some thoughts or recommendations on Driver heads from their fittings or testing that they could advise on - Ideally want to be forgiving, hit it lower than current, with less spin. Given my Driver is probably 10y old, any thing from last 2 years probably is better - but still keen to hear! Thanks JJ
  4. Hi everyone. my driver swing speed is between 115-125 generally. Currently I have an old Cleveland classic driver head, 290g (I love the tall face) and an Aldila RIP phenom X stiff, 70g shaft. Golf pride plus four grip. One of my issues is I feel I lack feel in my driver swing, really struggle to hit two shots the same and struggle with rhythm. would a heavier club help me with that? To better feel the club head on the end of the shaft ? Any other suggestions ?
  5. Yes all understood, I do have a specific club length ruler thank you. My GW and SW are half an inch longer than LW, and I do want them all the same, so will take of the 3/8" and see from there. Appreciate all the help
  6. I have 3 x Cobra Trusty Rusty wedges that I love feel of the heads, and don't want to change to new wedges - and am going to tinker with shaft length a bit - My issue is: The current shafts came standard with a black coating, that is peeling off to different degrees on each of the 3. I have tried slowly picking it off piece by piece, but it is extremely tedious. Anyone know a simple fast way to remove it with a product or method? Thanks
  7. Thank you Howard, understood and super interesting at that. Appreciate the response. I am going to try for now, taking 3/8" off the tip of the 50 and 54 (currently @ 35,5", so I am happy to do so) even with their current S200 shaft, to see how it feels. If I still want it stronger, I will then try the same with an X100, and see how it feels. Something I am still not clear on - I can buy 37" 0.355 taper X100's. I can only take 3/8" off of the tip, for it to still be able to fit in the hosel correctly as per your comments - do I take the rest off the butt end to achieve final length?
  8. Haha, thanks Howard... Really appreciate this. Even if there is a "only slightly different to how the rest of irons will play" suggestion that is easier to do, that works as well for me. Or if you can suggest an alternative of any kind for me, that can get the wedges playing similar to my X100 irons. The guy who is doing it for me says he can measure the frequency of the shaft, and use that to ensure I get to the same flex and feel n the wedges, as compared to on the irons... does this work? One more scenario - the shafts are currently the same length as my PW, as the clubs some 35,5" standard on 50 and 54 on the clubs I have. They currently have S200 stock shafts. I ideally want the gap wedges to be 35,25" - so what if I tip trimmed the current shafts by 1/4 of an inch? That would make it just under half a a club stiffer? Or even take a half an inch off, which will be a bit more than half a club stiffer, and then my 50, 54 and 58 will all be the same length @ 35.0" (The 50 and 54 are currently 35,5" and the 58 is 35.0")
  9. Thanks Howard. So much info! So how does this sound: For the 50 and 54 (to play same as my irons, flex wise). My PW is currently 35,5". I want the 50, 54 and 58 to all be 35,25". 1. Buy 2 x X100 37" shafts 2. How much do I trim from the butt and how much from the tip, to make it same flex as my irons and a 35,25" length? (My answer based on what you said above is - tip trim 3/8" and butt trim 1 and 3/8") For the 58 Degree, also to be 35,25" 1. Buy one X100 shaft @ 37" 2. How much do I trim the tip and the butt to make it equivalent to X100 with 1 x Soft Step, and still 35,25"? (my answer based on what you said above, is to butt trim it all, so butt trim 1 and 3/4") Then I will have 50, 54 and 58 all 35,25", but with the 50 and 54 at exact same flex as all my irons, but the 58 at 1 x soft step? Please correct me - I am sure I am wrong haha
  10. So if butt trimming does nothing, then for Taper Tip you could essentially buy any length you like, and butt trim to any length you like - and it will play to the same stiffness as the length you bought it at? So a 37" shaft is a 7i length, even if I trimmed the but to 35.5", it will still be 7i stiffness? I know that each club shaft length gets stiffer as you go down from 3i-PW, so a PW shaft is stiffer than a 3i shaft to compensate for the heavier club head. So if I wanted my 3 wedges, 50, 54, 58 to all have the same length shaft (say 35,25") and the 50/54 to have same flex as irons, with the 58 slightly less, I could do this: 1. Buy 2 x X100 35,5" shafts, trim by 0,25" and install in the 50 and 54 2. Buy 1 x X100 shaft at 36" (1 x ss) or 36,5" (2 x SS), trim it to 35,25" and install in the 58 deg. Then it would be an X100 with either 1 or 2 x soft steps, depending if I buy 9i or 8i shaft thanks again! learning every day on here
  11. Hi everyone, I have read this now a few times and it goes something like this - Some people like to use the same shaft for their irons as an 8i Shaft or 9i shaft, but in their wedges (so soft stepped X number of times) As an example, for my understanding: In order for it to be soft stepped, I understand you take a 6i head and play it on a 5i shaft for example - but does this mean you also play it with the 5i shaft length? Or you trim it the 5i shaft to 6i length? My confusion lies in the fact that if you trim a shaft, are you not stiffening it, so trimming a 5i shaft to 6i length, makes it the same as a 6i shaft - then what is the point? So to take it to the wedge reference, are people who play 8/9i shafts in their wedges, playing them with the longer shaft? I have X100 T.I in my irons, and would like to at least put the same shaft in my 50 and 54 wedges, which are mainly for full shots, and the 58 for a mix of partial and full I can consider something like S400. So for the 50 and 54 if I want to put X100, do I buy them already as wedge lengths (or is PW the shortest you can buy?), or do you buy any length you want and just cut them to desired length and effectively have the same thing as if you bought a wedge length. I don't want to have 8/9i length shafts in my wedges, I like them short with more control. Further to this, to shorten my yardage range on wedges, could I play the same length shaft in all 3 wedges, 50, 54 and 58? To decrease the yardage between them?
  12. Thanks. So an X100 would have a little more flex by the design of the wedge being a heavier than usual head? and what about a slightly softer shaft for 54 and 58 that might incur many or mostly partial shots ?
  13. Hi everyone, I have just fitted X100 Tour issue on my CG16 tour irons 4-PW, and want to know what you would suggest for my Wedges - Cobra Trusty Rusty 50, 54, 58 (they don't come with special grind or bounce, they are all "tri-bounce" - supposedly meaning they could all work from any lie). 50 degree will 99% of the time be for full shots, 54 and 58 would be a mix of full shots and pitches/chips etc. Do I put X100 on all of them, or a combo of X100 for the 50 and then something else like S400 for 54 and 58 etc? any recommendations and thought processes here would be appreciated Thanks JJ
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