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  1. $24 glove. For $27 I can get 4 Kirklands. Titleist gloves for Pro V1 users? Bring your A game and wallet or go home! Country club golf?
  2. Costco Kirkland. No compromise gloves that free up lots of extra money for more important things like beer!
  3. A few reasons to explain... 1) Shaft weight is the number one priority for most players, and DG's are heavy which suits most strong players. 2) The bend profile and feel of DG is excellent and once a pro gets used to a certain feel and flight they are not likely to change much. 3) Shafts shouldn't be fit based on distance, thus players like Morikawa and Johnson can use the same shaft without issue. 4) (maybe the most important) Other than weight and feel, shafts don't matter for most players, so 2) applies.
  4. Agree. It's the only reason I used to go to their website.
  5. Buy whatever .355 taper tip shaft you prefer in 3 iron spec and butt cut it to your preferred playing length. Dry fit with a split grip and figure out if you need any tip weights to achieve the swingweight you desire. Then glue it up and install the grip.
  6. As mentioned, focus on head weight. The weight of a modern 5 iron head hasn't changed, regardless of loft, so you need to use a 5 iron shaft if you want to remain true to flex for the shaft set.
  7. Have you checked the manufacturers website? They have a page specific to the Rifle shaft. truetempersports.com
  8. There is no graphite equivalent to the Nippon 120. The Nippon's are really soft in the butt and stiff in the tip. A very unique shaft.
  9. The CaddyTrek 3 cart had a swivel wheel feature that activates with the pull of a lever so in effect it's both fixed and swivel. Costco sells this cart and a friend has one and likes it. The wheels are smaller and the cart is less robust overall compared to a Clicgear in my opinion. It's half the price though and a good value.
  10. Heat guns are the wrong tool for removing heads. A torch should be used always. Especially for pulling graphite shafts. When pulling iron heads w/steel shafts a torch on the hosel, constantly moving for 15 seconds, and the head will twist right off. I don't use a glove either because the heat is concentrated in the hosel, not all over the head like when using a heat gun.
  11. Agree on using double sided tape. Also, be sure to use a torch, no heat gun. Heat guns spew heat over a wide area unless you have a funnel attachment, so they put more heat than needed into the shaft and don't allow you to focus the heat where it's needed.
  12. You SHOULD coat both the shaft and the hosel. And laying even beads of the same length and height are a perfectly fine method to measure out the epoxy.
  13. What does this mean? It's already been clarified that the material does not retain 100% strength at 300F. In fact, the strength drops by 2/3's at 180F. Did you read the data sheet?
  14. Look at the MOI numbers, not MPF.
  15. Hogan has already gone the way of MacGregor, and many other manufacturers mentioned in this thread have too. Basically they were once a big proud company that fell on hard times and were sold, multiple times, such that they are nothing like the company they once were.
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