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Nessism

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  1. I'm pretty anal about protection from marring the heads when bending so I bought a Golfworks Ultimate bending bar which is same as the Golf Mechanix "Heavy Duty FEA engineered bending bar." I modified it slightly by adding a radius to the top/bottom edges of the brass clamp. I use painters tape on the hosel and then a brass sleeve before clamping on the bar. This works quite nicely overall. The adjustable bar applies pressure over a wider area as compared to a non adjustable bar which basically applies point contact, which is more likely to mar the head.
  2. The interference fit at the bottom of the hosel adds complication. When rebuilding a lot of guys don't get the shaft all the way to the bottom, not to mention it makes pulling the shafts and dry fitting the shafts for swingweighting more difficult.
  3. Guys that load the shaft a lot with either a late release or quick transition are most likely to see different trajectories as related to different shaft profiles. For most of us it won't have much if any effect so focus on finding a shaft that allows you to put your best swing on the ball.
  4. Ouch! That hurts. You won't catch me using "shafting beads"...but that DP8410NS that has "glass beads to control bond line thickness" built in. I'm really happy with that adhesive. It's designed to tolerate poor prep and it even bonds to oily surfaces. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Scotch-Weld-Acrylic-Adhesive-DP8410NS/?N=5002385+3293242481&rt=rud
  5. The i210's don't have a hosel weight so I assume they are like the older Ping's which require driving the shaft into the hosel in order to get it to bottom. You should still prep the hosels and shafts very carefully, use quality epoxy, and the proper collared ferrules. To get the shaft to bottom in the hosel I turn the club upside down, holding the head in one hand and the shaft in another, then pick up the club and slam it down onto a concrete floor shaft butt end down a couple of times to drive the shaft into the hosel. This works best if the shafts don't have grips installed of course.
  6. Everyone is free to do what they want but no grip of mine gets installed without double stick tape. That aside, California Air Tools makes some amazingly quiet compressors. As a bonus they are quite durable and not overly expensive. Check Amazon for options from tiny to large.
  7. Some old Wilson's are know for having a tight fitting head to shaft fit. I think they used to drive the shaft into the head to get it to bottom. This was partly because the epoxies weren't as good as they are now. With modern adhesives it's advised to have some clearance around the shaft for the glue. You might want to run a .355T reamer though the heads to assure they are properly sized.
  8. More head mass will result in more energy transfer to the ball. As the head mass gets high though the velocity may go down, and the energy transfer as related to velocity is a squared function so speed is more important than mass.
  9. No problem, other than cosmetically.
  10. The v2.0 could very well be made by the same contractor, thus the similar appearance. Tweak the core layer formulations to improve performance and viola, v2.0. I'm cool with that. As for the 3 piece bashing that seems so common, guess I'm just a hack because I thought it was fine. If this new version improves even slightly on the first version Costco will have another winner on their hands.
  11. It's amazing how some many threads of this ilk devolve into blades vs. CB's. I blame the blade crowd for this by the way.;) The answer as to "what to play" is always the same: play what gives you the most enjoyment. Just don't try to rationalize where there is no rational reason.
  12. 1.25" is pretty common for Mizuno's.
  13. This part is correct. In other words, you can't grind out offset other than very slightly. And if you modify the leading edge by adding a radius that will push the leading edge back and add offset. A good tradeoff though.
  14. I roll my eye's at those that think small head clubs are easier to hit and/or they teach you to hit the center of the face. Simple fact is that people that miss the center of the face have swing flaws, and rubbing their nose in this fact through stinging hands from off center impact strikes doesn't teach them WHAT they did wrong and how to fix it. If you strike the center of the face most of the time then high MOI irons won't help your game. On the other hand, if you don't hit the center every time (like me,) then a high forgiveness club can help you.
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