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Nessism

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  1. That seller is well know as a TM outlet. Not fake. And with more than 47k feedbacks on ebay with 99.4% positive, that should be obvious. http://golfdealsandsteals.com/iron-set/?_bc_fsnf=1&brand=38
  2. Be careful to manage length carefully because it has a significant affect on swingweight. Different companies measure clubs differently, grip on or grip off is one difference for example. You might want to baseline off your set PW and then go from there.
  3. OP puts up question, a number of responses presented (some better than others ,) OP doesn't come back to thread to respond or provide more information. You reap what you sow.
  4. I think Royal Precision created the vibration frequency methodology to rate shafts. They invented their own methodology on how to hold the shaft and what mass of tip weight. The Precision FCM shafts were Dynamic Gold competitors and as you say, Ram, was one of the high profile adopters. Rifle shafts came out later.
  5. From the old Dynacraft Shaft Fitting Addendum. Frequency is a stiffness reference. From this you can see that the R flex DG shafts are about 10 points softer than S.
  6. If you have the money I'd try the X. Worst case, pull them and sell.
  7. Modus 120 is very butt soft. The butt end CPM is very low for that reason. Much softer than Dynamic Gold.
  8. Number one I'd make sure the shaft weight of your sand wedge is consistent with those in your irons & gap wedge. A little bit heavier is typically okay but keep the weight to within 10 grams or so. This is to assure you have the same basic feel of the club in your hands so you can put a good swing on the ball. Second, I'd move to a more cambered sole, one with some leading edge relief. The Tom Watson wedges have a sharp leading edge which is prone to digging if you hit the ball fat. Third, or maybe first actually, is to practice the type of shots you are struggling with. That often s
  9. Good on you for buying a scale so the build can be done properly. Now you need a club length ruler. You can make one yourself using a common aluminum ruler with a 60 degree angle on the end. There are some good guides on the internet so you might want to google "homemade golf club ruler" to get some ideas.
  10. Cameron first, because his fame came from making fancy Ping knockoffs. And Titleist in general, who tries to separate themselves as the "pro's brand" which drives elitism and high prices.
  11. You proclaim yourself an "expert at designing cars" yet you think safety can be defined by simple factors like full frame vs. unibody? LOL man. In case you didn't know, F1 cars use a monocoque construction technique, basically a unibody. What's safer? One of those or an F150?
  12. I've played my driver at 44.5" for the last 20 years and have no interest in anything else. Club lengths for my other clubs is set as well. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
  13. I'd pull a grip on your existing clubs and get the numbers off the shaft so you can figure out what flex and club it is. Then match that with your new shafts. Of course this assumes you desire to move one full step stiffer. Or, measure from the shaft tip (assume 1.25" inside the hosel) to the first step and compare the length to the drawing of the DG shaft on True Tempers website.
  14. Wow! You are an expert car designer? Where did you go to school and what degrees do you hold? And what vehicles did you design? Car structures are designed using super computers where all kinds of crash simulations can be modeled. I'm certainly no expert on the subject but I am a mechanical engineer that worked for a major Japanese OEM for 21 years, and I know some chassis and body designers that worked at our R&D facilities. One thing that's well understood by people in the business is that pretty much all vehicles are a compromise in one shape or form, and todays vehicles
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