Jump to content


Advanced Members
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Nessism

  1. I'd play them. Since the lie was adjusted that means that someone measured and adjusted each club. So that leaves loft. You can judge that by distance in the actual world. Don't make a hasty decision though until you have really tested the clubs.
  2. Do NOT sand on the face. That's a BAD idea. You will have to sand and sand and sand before you get all the black coating off the face. The score lines will remain, but the brush marks will be removed. Your best bet is to play around with a sharpy or maybe some black paint and rub that into the deep scratches. Then lightly buff with some rubbing compound to remove the excess paint, that which is not down into the scratch grooves.
  3. The Tour is the more stable of the two.
  4. +1/2" and White dot have a lie angle of 2.25 degrees upright. Bringing them to standard length and Black dot is pretty simple. The only hard part would be to swingweight the clubs.
  5. I recently asked here and was told that the 95 as sold by PXG is a .370 shaft, which means it's descending weight. In other words, the long iron shafts are heavier than the short. The Elevate Tour shafts are taper tip and constant weight.
  6. The only way "bend and weight" affect dispersion is IF, and only IF, a person's swing requires a specific "bend and weight" for them to put a good swing on the ball. Put the same shaft in one of those iron byron machines and the dispersion will be perfect.
  7. Please don't do this. The ferrule can melt, and it won't do the epoxy holding the head any good either. Golfworks Tour Set epoxy leads to more troubles than any other type of epoxy discussed on this board...by a huge margin. I'd throw that junk in the trash. The part about spinning the head several times is not good. This is not necessary and only pushes epoxy out of the joint. After inserting the shaft, 90 degrees of rotation is all that's needed. And before installing the head, it's important to coat both the hosel ID and the shaft.
  8. Late model Ping adapters are solid aluminum + rubber ferrule. The earlier adapters, like for the G25, didn't use the ferrule. Before bonding, it's good practice to rough up the inner surface of the adapter with clean and fresh sandpaper. Then the ID of the adapter needs to be degreased with MEK or acetone. Allow to dry well before bonding. For bonding, real deal shafting epoxy, or an appropriate grade of industrial adhesive, should be used. The 24 hour stuff has the best reputation. Golfworks Tour Set epoxy has a horrible reputation, so I'd stay clear of that crap. Slather epoxy on both the adapter ID and the shaft OD, then insert the shaft. Rotate to achieve the alignment you want, clean off any squeeze out, then set the shaft against a wall, tip end down, and don't touch it again until the epoxy kicks off and firms up solid. Do this and the shaft won't pull out again. BTW, that adapter can be reused again. Follow the steps outlined here, and of course, clean the old epoxy off the shaft tip, then degrease. Be careful to not damage or disturb the ferrule on the shaft, just clean around it. Also, I'd make sure the shaft tip is not blocked. I do NOT like the stupid Ping rubber shaft plug they supply with the adapter because it leads to an airlock when installing the adapter. No good comes from that. Good luck
  9. As with any build, it's important to check, and adjust as necessary, specifications such as length and swingweight. There is a good chance that they will be pretty close, but you won't know until you verify.
  10. Nessism

    Irons help!

    This is the proper answer. That said, there is nothing wrong with changing up clubs, but don't expect them to improve your game.
  11. Question: with the Elevate 95 shafts, do they use the .370 version (I suspect) or the .355?
  12. Citristrip is the weakest stripper ever. In this case it will most likely work fine though.
  13. Agree. Looks like rattle can paint. I'd dunk it straight into some good, strong paint stripper.
  14. I added hot melt to mine. No idea on starting weight though.
  15. There have been older threads here where members with these clubs stated that they pulled the toe screw and accessed a small cavity where weight could be added.
  16. What you're missing is the fact that your desires don't align with those of the vast majority of GI iron buyers. Not to mention, TRUE GI irons are not a "compact cavity back head," they are a LARGE cavity back head.
  17. Miura PP-9003 Passing Point Straight Neck Midsize irons but not huge. Very low offset. Forged feel. They were closed out a year or so back, but you can find sets out there. https://www.golfwrx.com/220053/review-miura-pp-9003-straight-neck-irons/
  18. No. Once upon a time they had a service to press out offset, but that stopped a number of years ago. Plus, modern clubs like the 425's, with a thin face, may have rendered that process moot anyway.
  19. Shaft flex in of itself has very little effect on shot accuracy, other than a shaft that doesn't feel right for a person may result in them putting a bad swing on the ball. For guys that load the shaft a lot, either with a quick tempo and/or late release, the club head will be ahead of the shaft centerline at impact, and when that happens it will add a little dynamic loft and increase flight. The face may close down a tiny amount, but not enough to cause ball flight issues other than maybe maybe, a slight draw. By far the bigger issue with shaft stiffness is how it feels in the hands of the player, and subsequently how that feel affects their shot making.
  20. Yes you are. The Putters forum is the place to find a map...https://forums.golfwrx.com/forum/50-putters/
  21. The Ping dot color relates to lie angle, not length.
  • Create New...