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Everything posted by Nessism

  1. Weight is the main thing. How much lighter than DG? What about 120 DG? Lighter still?
  2. Nippon 850's are extremely light and soft to flex. When you say they "feel a bit light" what does this mean? How much light? Have you ever owned clubs with 105 gram shafts? What clubs do you have and how far do you hit a 7 iron? What is your tempo like? Are the shafts stock length? To me the best fittings stay close to what you currently have, but with a refinement. I wouldn't say this for a 18 handicapper, but for someone scratch like you it's best to not stray too far from what's working currently.
  3. What shafts are in your current irons? What weight? What is the ball flight like? What about your current clubs are you looking to change? Honestly, please don't go into some fitting and throw blind faith at some guy you don't know, someone that doesn't know your game. Launch monitor be damned. You have to steer the fitting yourself. That's the only way to get properly fit.
  4. No disrespect, but since you are a scratch player don't you already have shaft and club specs that you know work for you?
  5. The crowbar works fine, just need to position the head relative to the vice so the crowbar is pushing along the shaft axis. And you only need to get the initial movement, after that the head comes off easily.
  6. Bend 44 to 45, and then go 50-55-60
  7. I used to pull wood heads using a crowbar with a notch filed in the end. Clamp shaft in vice, heat hosel using a torch, and pry off the head. Golfsmith sold such a tool, which is where I got the idea. For someone with a vice and shaft clamp already the total cost was something like $8 for a cheap crowbar from Harbor Freight.
  8. Chemicals and abrasion will remove the rust but it will also remove some of the black coating. Rust on the sole will go away the next time you hit some balls with that club. To avoid rust carry a towel and wipe the club off after each shot. A quick wipe down with an oily rag after the round will help also. It doesn't matter what kind of oil you use.
  9. Recoil 95 & 110 ARE ascending weight shafts. I'm a huge fan of the 95's. They are high quality and swingweight nicely despite being quite lightweight.
  10. 2 degrees reduces offset by about .75mm. Half as much as you state. I did a test and measured myself which is how I know this. Ping irons have a ton of bounce so I wouldn't go more than a degree or so weaker. That's just my opinion though. Oh, and I bent my 410's a little weak in some clubs, to give me the lofts I like, not for the offset change.
  11. I think those are mold numbers. Ping must have had several molds for each head in order to make as many irons as they did back in those days.
  12. Shafts don't provide propulsion into the shot so as long as your launch numbers are good you can play whatever shaft flex suits your need for feel. Some people need to feel some flex in the shaft during the swing and playing a shaft that's too stiff and not providing them the feedback they want will result in the person overswinging. This is an individual thing and the best way to discover your personal sweet spot is though experimentation.
  13. T400 lofts are some of the most ridiculous in the market. Ping is the king of GI & SGI irons and their lofts are totally different. Yes, we all know that GI irons launch high, but anyone that thinks that's why the T400 lofts are what they are is kidding themselves. And people that say "the number on the sole isn't important" is out of touch with what average golfers thinks. I say this as someone that's played irons from blades to full GI for a good many years. I've gotten used to sets with a 45 degree PW and can't see any reason to go stronger.
  14. I just read the comments and they don't strike me as overly bad. It certainly does seem like he's not looking forward to it, but that doesn't mean he doesn't care and won't try his best.
  15. It depends on the iron set. More players oriented sets typically don't even offer wedges beyond the gap wedge. GI irons sets often do but a lot of people break the set at the SW and LW because a blade type wedge is more versatile in terms of hitting flop shots and/or opening the face for a bunker shot. If you never open the face then I think it's okay to stick with the set clubs.
  16. I've told this story several times prior but it seems appropriate to this discussion since it mirrors the OP's. I played blades for more than a decade and then moved to smallish CB's. I remember looking at Mizuno MX-23's back in the day and shuttering at the large size. Got married, had a kid, and basically didn't play for 7 years. When I eventually got back into the game I had some Macgregor 1025. Then came the fateful night while cruising ebay and drinking beer when I bought a set of Ping G10's. Got a killer deal on a brand new set. Took them to the range and it was a ballstriking epiphany. Every shot high and straight. I just couldn't believe it.
  17. Your ad copy now states "431 carpenter steel..." "carpenter steel" suggests the 431 material is manufactured by Carpenter Technology, a specialty metal manufacturer headquartered in the USA. Is that the case? If so, that's impressive. https://www.carpentertechnology.com/
  18. I minute is WAY too long. The epoxy will breakdown in 20 seconds. I pull shafts and don't use a glove because the head proper doesn't even get hot (just the hosel does.) I agree with scrapping all the old epoxy out while it's hot. Don't confuse that with head prep though.
  19. I don't know man. The Gen 3's and 211's are competitively priced, if not cheaper than many others. I want to get some Gen3 P series clubs but the shafts put me off. I still might get them though. Which of the stock offering shafts would hold the best resell value? MMT 80 graphite? The stock Elevate 95's might work for me so maybe those are the choice?
  20. I wouldn't do anything to try to fix it. The head is chrome plated so don't sand or file away the chrome. Just play. It's battlescar patina.
  21. Golfworks sells a Glide specific ferrule. They are ridiculously expensive but fit well.
  22. How about some photos showing the condition? In general, I'd bead blast and then polish. Polishing involves using progressively finer and finer sandpaper and eventually moving to polishing compound. A lot of work.
  23. You realize of course that shafts don't provide propulsion right?
  24. Remember, total weight and swingweight are both factors that affect the feeling of heft of the club. A heavy club at D2 will have a greater feeling of heft compared to a light club at D4.
  25. Agree on the ball. Try a softer ball (avoid "X" balls.) BTW, I wish I could strike the ball so consistently on the center of the face. I'm jealous.
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