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Gerr's Achievements



  1. Just looking for some golf ball recommendations. Price is not a major issue, so premium balls are fine, but I do look for deals as $50/dz isn't something I will do. Just in a unique situation, so having issues finding the right ball since two recent injuries caused me to slow up my swing. Clubs(new set since injuries designed for my slower swing speed): PXG 0211 driver with Riptide CB 50g 5.5 shaft. PXG 0211 fairway woods with Riptide CB 60g 5.5 shafts. PXG 0211 irons with MMT 70 Regular shafts. Cleveland CBX2/CBX-FF wedges with DG 115 S200(stock) shafts. Swing specs: I shoot in the upper-80's, so upper-mid handicapper. Low 90's driver swing speed. (used to be mid 100's before 1st injury, upper 90's before 2nd injury) High launch and high spin on driver. Fight a fade, would prefer something to reduce those bad shots if possible. High launch but low spin irons. Low launch and mid-spin wedge shots. Course conditions: Arizona desert courses(munies) Very tight/firm fairways(balls roll forever) Little to no wind Rock hard greens. Little to no rough, usually fairway then rocky desert. Ball preferences... Driver: would like a lower launching lower spinning ball that fights side spin. Irons: would like a lower launching but higher spinning ball that fights side spin. Wedges: launch is fine, but need max spin as AZ greens are rock hard and only high spin tour balls will hold these greens. Feel: while I prefer a soft feeling ball, as long as it's not Top Rock hard, I don't really care. Other: need a durable ball as desert courses can rough up a ball quickly. Distance: not as important as other items, so really a 2nd thought as most balls fall within 10 yards of each other if hit well. Ya, I know, I am asking for a unicorn. So basically looking for a high spin short game ball that doesn't balloon on driver/irons shots and also isn't high spin off a driver. I figure only a tour level ball will have what I want, but very open to mid level balls as well as mail order balls. I don't need a urethane ball, but I don't think other covers will provide the green side bite I need. I don't expect a ball to back up, but 1-2 bounces then stop is ideal. Easier said than done on these AZ greens. Current gamer = I bounce between the Srixon Z-Star & Z-Star XV as well as TM TP5 & TP5x. Z-Star is my current favorite out of those, and I usually get the PRACTICE versions of these balls. Other balls I have hit: Srixon Q-Star Tour - nice fell & distance, not enough stopping power on greens. Vice Pro/Pro+ = liked the Pro+ before my injuries, have not hit since. Pro was just OK. Kirkland 2.0 - love it off the wedges, nearly a club short on irons and way too high spin on driver. Titleist - I tend to avoid all Titleist balls, too expensive. But would play one if it was hands down better. So...any recommendations?
  2. Correction, the shaft I liked wasn't the Evenflow Black, but instead was the Hzrdus Black, my mistake. I find it odd that most reviews say it lacks feel, but I liked it's feel better than any of the other shafts, and I don't have an aggressive tempe, moderate at best.
  3. The original Black wasn't CB, only the new Riptide Blue is. I have several Riptide CB's, good shaft, but really liked the feel of the original Black better. However, it's a 75g shaft, so looking for lighter one or a newer version.
  4. Yes, but most of the Evenflow Blacks are 75g, and I need 65g or lighter. Plus I need a 5.5 and not 6.0, so hard to find and when I do, expensive. Just wondering if any newer shafts would have the same or very similar profile. The Evenflow Riptide Black reviews put it more in between the original Black and Blue, so not really the same.
  5. I picked up several older driver shaft pulls and installed the adapter for my driver and tried them out. The one I liked the "feel" of the best was the Project X Evenflow Black. What would be a more modern version that I could obtain with my specific specs?
  6. Most GI irons have a wide sole and a lot of bounce while PD irons are generally reduced in those specs as they tend to mirror the size/shape of players irons but with the attempted forgiveness of a GI iron. While those GI irons work best for high handicappers on most courses, might that not be the same on desert courses? Desert courses, like those in Arizona, tend to have tight & firm fairways where the wide soles and high bounces can cause issues. For example, I generally shoot in the low 90's, probably mid-90's if I didn't take any gimmies or mulligans, and my ball striking with irons is one of my weak spots. I ordered two demo 7 irons with the same shaft, one a Mizuno JPX 919 Hot Metal(GI) and the other was the Hot Metal Pro(PD). I frequently hit both fat and thin shots and found the HMP to generally hit better off those tight/firm conditions than the regular HM. As a sweeper, like many high handicappers, I noticed that sometimes during fat shots, the HM would hit the ground and bounce up and skull the ball while the HMP didn't do that as often. Mizuno JPX's are generally low bounce for irons, so I tried a PXG 0211 which is a GI irons with a higher bounce and it was even worse. I was just wondering if high handicappers might be better off with PD irons instead of GI irons if they play mostly on tight/firm courses? Thoughts?
  7. I checked the eBay auction I bought them from, it says .370. So either the seller was wrong, or they were reamed out for .370. How can I tell?
  8. Hmm, I thought I read that they were parallel, but after checking a 2nd time, you are correct, they are taper. That actually makes things way easier as I have a spare set of new TT XP 105 R300 shafts I could use.
  9. I have an old set of Ping Zing iron heads I want to build to use a range/car set. I don't want to leave an expensive set of clubs in my car's trunk 24/7 in case it's ever broken into, so need this on the cheap. My main set of irons are Mizuno JPX 919 Hot Metal Pro's with Nippon Modus3 105 Regular shafts. However, due to a recent shoulder injury, I am swinging much slower, so bought another set I call my "injury" set composed of PXG 0211 irons with MMT 70 Regular shafts. I want the shafts to fall somewhere in between the specs of these two shafts and be $25 or under, and prefer under $20. I prefer lower launching shafts as the Ping Zings have traditional lofts, so they are several degrees weaker than modern clubs, so a low launching shaft would be ideal. Ping Zing's are .370's, so parallel shafts only please. I am considering... FST 90 steel iron shafts in regular. Grafalloy ProLaunch SuperCharged Red Graphite iron shafts in regular. UST Mamiya iRN Graphite iron shafts in regular. UST Mamiya Competition Series Graphite iron shafts in regular. Graphite Design G-Tech Graphite iron shafts in regular. Nippon Pro 950GH steel iron shafts in regular. *only if I can catch a sale* Mitsubishi Kuro Kage Black Graphite iron shafts in regular. *only if I can catch a sale* Any thoughts on the above shafts or other recommendations?
  10. As an experiment, I bought a used Clevleand RTX X-Low bounce 58* which has 3* of bounce. It certainly digs in those dead-pan bunkers, but I found it totally useless around the green as all it wants to do is dig. I think a narrow to mid sole with 6-8* of bounce would likely be best. I have a Callaway 58*/8* W-grind wedge, but while the bounce is good, the wide sole isn't and doesn't work well out of dead-pan bunkers. I have tried narrow sole 58* wedge with 10* of bounce and have had issues, so that's why I think 8* with a narrow sole or 6* with a medium sole would likely be ideal. I just hate spending money on "experimental" clubs.
  11. As a bogie ball player, I am not skilled enough to use a lot of clubs for chipping. Of course I have my prefered bump-in-run club, usually a 9i, then like one other wedge for chipping, usually 54*, but one I can open the face if I need a little more loft as my 58* is usually a low bounce club for hard sand only. Ya, I could use it too, but the margin for error is much smaller on it. While I could use my GW for chipping, I like to get a GW that is designed for full swings and I also use it for pitching. Only down side here is I go from a 9i BnR to a 54* slightly open chipper. I would really prefer a little more roll out on my normal chips and just open my face more if I need higher lofted chips. To address the chipping issue above, I have considered getting a 48* GW instead of a 58* since my PW is 42-44* pending on which set I use. I could then get a 50-52* wedge with a better sole for chipping and use it slightly open for normal chips and more open for higher lofted chips. Might even use it as my pitch club too. I would then leave my 58* LW as-is. This only works as I NEVER full swing anything below my GW. Might try this at some point.
  12. I have always used the old school chipping method of hands forward with ball back in the stance. However, after watching a number of videos, a new/better chipping technique known as "use the bounce" seems popular now. This is the technique where you put the ball in the middle or slightly forward in the stance, open the club face a hair, hand/shaft is neutral, and just swing the club bottoming out just before the ball and let the bounce do it's thing. I tried it a little and it seems to work well/better, but not sure what is the best wedge/bounce to use for this. I courses I play are in Arizona, so most fairways are tight/hard. What degree/bounce/grind wedge would be best for this? I have always used a 56* mid-bounce SW as my main chipping club. But if I am going to open a face a bit, would a 54* or even 52* wedge work better? And is a mid-bounce wedge, (~10*) best for tight lies, or should I go higher or lower? Any specific wedge grinds work best for this?
  13. I tried the high bounce steep/fast attack swing using a Callaway PM Grind SW, the club just bounced off the hard sand and skulled the shot nearly hitting someone on the other side of the green. Let's say I am gun shy about trying that again. I have a Callaway MD5 JAWS 58/8 I have been using, but just bought a beat up RTX4 58/3 off eBay on the cheap and will see how that works.
  14. I play in Phoenix, AZ, so the courses I play at generally don't rake their bunkers and it's more like hitting out of dirt than sand. I have always carried a 58* wedge with 8* bounce as I have read that you need a lower bounce wedge for hard sand. I also read that you should not to open the club face, so I carry a 58* instead of a 56* as I am not adding loft with a square club face. Just checking with others to see if what I have read and my logic behind my SW makes sense, or if I should try something else.
  15. I have not played with a 3W in the bag for a while, it always got me into trouble when hit off the deck and I prefer my driving iron off the tee if I can't hit a driver. That left a club spot open, so recently bought a "safe" driver. It's a PXG 0211 12* turned up to 13.5* with a 44" shaft. It came in at C7, so ordered a replacement weight of 20G to take it to D2. I might add some lead tape to it as well, will see.
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