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Valtiel

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Valtiel last won the day on October 31 2020

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About Valtiel

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  1. @hagimihale is exactly right, so unless you are set on something in the GD line, I would look elsewhere. From an overall performance standpoint the M9003 will be closest, but from a profile standpoint the AD-HD looks just like the Rogue Silver profile without the low mid stiffness bump, so you could potentially go up in flex with the HD and have a similar shaft. I wouldn't recommend the BB/XC though as their low mid stiffness drops are virtually in the same place as the stiffness increase in the Rogue Silver, pretty much guaranteeing they are going to feel noticeably different to someo
  2. I was going to suggest hotmelt as well but it seems you found that way yourself. To me that is the key with hollow driving irons as it really makes them sound and feel so much better. More "thwack" and less "clank". I would think weight is the key with dispersion in your case, and I would also be surprised if the i500 ends up working well based on your posts so far. It has a VERY high CG and has definitely not fared well in the feel/sound category.
  3. This has been my experience as well. The item never gets a proper origin scan and then never updates until you actually have it, after which it will show as delivered. Not common, but certainly not unheard of. The only thing I use/trust a non-USPS shipping service for is large International stuff, and for that I use FedEx. Otherwise the problems that I have had with FedEx and UPS, although maybe less frequent, are often much more severe.
  4. The Mavrik SZ with the heavy weight in the rear is pretty comparable to many other current releases that are middle of the pack in terms of MOI/forgiveness. With the heavy weight in the front however it is one of the lowest spinning and most unforgiving setups currently available, quite a wide adjustment range.
  5. Firm sand is going to be one part equipment and two parts technique. Laying the club wide open to create a ton of effective bounce will almost always give you troubles in firm sand. You have to commit to swinging much harder to get down into the firm sand, or just get used to playing the face less open. As far as equipment, I prefer medium width soles with medium bounce, or wide soles with very low bounce and/or relief. The 6* bounce version of your 60* might perform better here, but you have to weigh that against what you want to use it for outside the sand and what those conditions look
  6. Yeah that is a tricky one for sure because they ARE hard to come by for some reason, but are still a stock OEM shaft so be careful about overpaying for one.
  7. Agreed with the above. The close-up pics clearly show that those are abrasions of some sort and there are tons of them, plus the tip is lacking a ferrule and the whole thing is a mess. https://www.mikesgolfoutlet.com/new-mitsubishi-diamana-ltd-red-m-60-x-stiff-driver-shaft-335-46-747343/ It is an X-stiff, but the Red is already a soft profile so I doubt that it would be too much. Brand new and with your tip of choice.
  8. Agreed with @straightshot7, and it does sound like you have already identified the core problem. When your transition isn't synced up and you come over the top and steep, which you're doing, your body is forced to compensate, which is what you're feeling. If you didn't do something to compensate then that steep club path would lead to the head burying into the ground a foot behind the ball, so you are forced to stand up and lose your posture. The fix then is to correct the club path, but in order to do that you need to address a few other things first. In order to shallow the club, your
  9. The weight designation have only ever been generic, and the "original" Diamana shafts were 63/73/83/93/103 followed by the second generation which were 60/70/80. The early "made for" Diamana shafts used the 62/72/82 designations likely just for differentiation, and there have since been plenty of "made for" shafts using different number designations. I get the scrutiny, but it is slightly misapplied. EVERYTHING that is not "TX" flex within a stock option OEM line (CK, AV, Kuro Kage Black/Silver, Diamana +PLUS etc etc) is a "made for" OEM shaft that they simply allow you to purchase afterma
  10. Nothing out of the ordinary about that at all. If it already has the appropriate tipping and fits in with the weight progression then have at it. You won't negatively affect anything since most all wood shafts are cut from 46" blanks, so you'd be doing exactly the same thing as the manufacturer would be doing if you ordered the 3w with that shaft.
  11. Agreed with Socrates, pretty ridiculous to call that "sun damage" unless the sun came down and whacked the shaft against a hard surface a bunch of times. Are there any other pics or a link to listing maybe?
  12. This is my understanding as well. Just because they put a different number on it doesn't actually mean there is a weight difference. Mitsubishi will put "60" as the printed weight class of a shaft that weighs anywhere from 60g (Tensei 1K White R) to 72g (Diamana BF 60TX), so I wouldn't take these numbers at face value or assume they mean more than they do. The fudge these numbers a LOT. In all likelihood, Taylormade wanted a "60" shaft because the other stock option (RDX Black) is 70g, and having one 65g and one 70g stock option looks weird. They likely just asked
  13. The should absolutely be liable for the work, but this has nothing to do with the ferrule.
  14. @bladehunter, your words may have become truth! In my mind, these two images = Autoflex.
  15. Sounds like a promising long iron replacement option!
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