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Everything posted by Valtiel

  1. To my mind, you have three fundamentals at play when you're properly clearing your your lower body as you describe: 1) Sequencing. As soon as your hands/arms overtake your lower body, the club face starts shutting down and you lose control of the head to inertia/momentum. Keeping your lower body leading/ahead ensures that this doesn't happen until after impact, which is what you want. 2) Space. Like @mudge said, hip clearance creates the space you need for your arms to return to where they started (or as close as possible), but ONLY if you maintain depth as well. To use myself as an example, I have never had a problem with sequencing and clearing my hips, but I do have a depth problem caused by a few things that I am working on, which means even with full hip clearance I am still losing that space because my lower body moves towards the ball in transition. Maintaining depth is just as important in many ways as the rotation itself. 3) Power. The lower body leading the downswing does have the effect of then pulling your upper body along with it which then acts like the first gear of your downswing. Without that first gear, you get the typical out of sequence weekend hacker swing which simultaneously looks like it takes a lot of effort but produces poor speed and consistency.
  2. No prob! You're not alone in looking for something similar: It is a unique shaft with a design that fit a small enough niche that it didn't get picked up or recreated that much, at least not to its original extremes. The 62g original HZRDUS Red might be worth looking at, but it isn't terribly close. I would hold out for finding the real thing online given the lack of any real design replacement existing.
  3. You're a madman and a criminal that should have all of his things confiscated. Pretty sure that puts you in the minority unfortunately. Not only do the pickier people care about it, as well as a vast majority of pros, but the industry as a whole pretty much does it as standard practice because it tends to be a default preference for most when they have one. Either people don't care, so it can go wherever, or they do and tend to prefer it down. Nothing really hard to fathom about which way it's going to go by default then. Several shaft lines have even incorporated graphic designs that are orientation agnostic for adjustable hosels. Big money in visual psychology and not pissing people off.
  4. Complete opposite shafts really, almost mirror images of each other from a profile standpoint. The Motore is super stiff in the handle with consistent, moderate stiffness loss down to a hinge in the middle that finishes with a really stiff tip section. Like a more stable Blueboard type of profile, very stout but with some kick if you can load it. The Grafalloy Blue on the other hand is extremely soft in the handle butt maintains a TON of stiffness in the mid section via a much slower taper rate. Basically the same type of profile as a Project X Rifle or a KBS C-Taper steel shaft, a very linear "one piece" type of feel but with enough action in the tip section to get the ball up. Both shafts will be lower launching overall, but via two completely different designs that are likely to produce very different feels. https://www.golfshaftreviews.info/fujikura-speeder-golf-shaft-review/ https://www.golfshaftreviews.info/grafalloy-prolaunch-golf-shaft-review/
  5. Those old Anser fairways are money, GL with the the sale!
  6. Please do, it will be nice to see real world follow up on these things. Regarding MOI, your comments about PING suggest we might need some clarification on the concept. When discussing the high MOI of the G400 MAX, we're talking about head MOI which is its resistance to twisting measured around specific axis'. When discussing MOI matching clubs, were talking about the whole club's MOI which is the entire thing's resistance to movement, and this perceived heft. Two completely different concepts. High head MOI also doesn't necessarily mean high spin, quite the opposite for some people. It means there is more weight further from the face, which can increase dynamic loft and thus launch and spin, but it also means that gear effects on mishits are reduced. This means reduced spin reduction on high strikes but also reduced spin INCREASE on low strikes. This means if you are a higher spin player because you miss lower on the head, high MOI heads can actually reduce spin for you. The important thing though is not getting head MOI and club MOI mixed together, the latter has nothing to do with performance or spin, just heft/feel.
  7. Sounds like a small business that got in over their heads with supply chain and material issues that isn't handling it well. Based on the fact that they claim their production costs went up significantly due to vague "supplier problems", i'd be willing to bet they used a lot (all?) of their pre-order money to cover this, and now can't be honest with the extent of the potential delays they are facing for fear of getting nailed with refunds they can't cover. Launching a product dependent on overseas suppliers during both a historic pandemic and equally historic supply chain strain was always going to be playing with fire.
  8. Came here to say this as well. One of the few sub 460cc modern drivers (G400 Standard and LST) that isn't designed to be less forgiving/lower spin in some capacity. Hilariously stable compared to something like the SLDR 440. Also consider that the PING LST heads are not "low spin" in relation to the market, merely within their own line. All measured LST heads I have seen could easily be the maximum forgiveness models in another companies lineup, no question. A 10* G400 LST or 9* G400 standard could absolutely be the business un;ess you have specific loft related needs.
  9. That is the tricky thing about counter weight and perception, it can feel lighter when you waggle, which is how a lot of people will check for a feel. Because you're moving the head a lot more than the grip and there is more weight in the hands, we often perceive the head as being a little lighter. When we actually swing the club however and are forced to move the whole thing, we're subjected to that increased weight (MOI). When comparing SW vs MOI matching, typically the SW matched set will have heavier long irons and lighter short irons (this is assuming constant weight shafts). Some people like this because it compliments the amount of speed/effort put into swinging each club, which is inherently different. Other people feel like this makes the clubs feel inconsistent and has the effect of compressing distances too much at the longer end of the set since the heavier long irons become harder to manage and launch. MOI matching seeks to tweak this slope so each club has a similar (or more predictable) feel. Regarding the heavy grips you're talking about, like Stuart said if you put them on all the clubs then they will have the same "balance" related to each other, that doesn't change. Swingweight matching all the clubs would then yield a swingweight matched set, which will behave like I said above. If you want to try MOI matching, there are a few ways to do it. The main thing to remember is simply that MOI matching creates a consistent feeling of resistance across the irons, which compared to swingweight matching creates long irons that are lighter feeling and wedges that are heavier feeling. If that sounds desirable, then you can: 1) Try progressive swingweighting. If you like the feeling in your long irons, then start from the longest iron and increase each shorter club by something like 1/3rd of a swingweight point, so every third club increases by one swingweight point. This is a very basic "poor man's MOI" approach that will work for most people if this type of matching fits their feel. 2) Ascending weight shafts (lighter long iron shafts, heavier short). Similar to above, but the slope is smoothed a bit by manipulating static weight instead of head weight. A swingweight matched set with ascending weight shafts is another "poor man's MOI" approach that can be a little more straightforward. This is all based on what feels good though, and it sounds like you might be a little hung up on trying to do all by some "standard" just on paper. This is problematic and could easily leave you stuck trying to figure out which way is best, when in reality you just start with one club that feels good/best/right/whatever and everything else builds off of that. Like the 7-iron @driveandputtmachine mentioned above, you find your starting point and build off of that using one of these formulas. Balance point doesn't matter, grip weight and what it is doing to the swingweight scale doesn't matter, all that matters is whether it feels right and how you can capture that same feeling with the other clubs around it.
  10. Regardless of how far we come technologically, I hope we never lose the hilarious Japanese -> English product description translation fails. "SPEEDER NX" is a model that is set to a medium tone on the EI distribution and creates ease of swinging. However, on the other hand, the new technology "VTC" tightens the torque at the tip and hand, making it easier to make face turns and achieving impact with upper blow."
  11. In addition to this, saying " I preferred D3 but my clubs were too light but measured D3" then you don't prefer D3, because how could you if the club is too light? It sounds like you liked the "idea" of D3 for whatever reason, or have misinterpreted it as a measure of balance that needs to be arbitrarily maintained, but then went outside the normal parameters of swingweight to make D3 "work". This isn't using swingweight for anything other than an arbitrary point that is only significant within the parameters you have manipulated. That is to say your D3 that comes from extra weight at either end of the club has ceased to mean anything from a swingweight standpoint. This is the shortcoming of the swingweight system, it isn't designed and has zero parameters to account for anything outside of a static 50g of weight in the handle (grip) and a neutral balance point shaft of a fixed weight. The moment you start manipulating any of those parameters, you functionally break the swingweight system and can no longer use it for anything outside your specific club. To illustrate this breaking of the system, lets just keep adding weight to either end of your hypothetical club. The static weight will keep going up and up while still measuring D3 if you maintain the correct weight distribution (not 1:1 head/grip btw, 5g = 1SW point measured change in the grip while it is between 1.6 - 2.3 in the head depending on length). Eventually the club would become unswingable while still measuring D3, and this didn't just suddenly tip over the edge, it was getting heavier the whole time via increased static weight. Your D3 with extra weight at either end has nothing to do D3 anymore, static weight needs to be factored in now since the system isn't being adhered to, which basically results in a D3*, with the asterisk being the change in static weight. The only way to offset this would be to drop shaft weight. You could have a club that measures D3 while adding 10g to the head and 30g to the grip, and you would need to subtract 40g of shaft weight (starting from a stock 130g down to 90g) in order for the whole club to still feel similar. This hopefully also addresses what @teddyironboy was asking about as well.
  12. @Howard_Jones and @Stuart_G are the main dudes, I just pay attention and crack jokes sometimes.
  13. I dunno ace, my super low torque driver started going left on me. It was fine before but I think all this torque talk activated some new physics in my 460cc SIM which is definitely bigger than the 460cc SIM2. Gonna put a steel shaft in it because it's definitely the torque.
  14. Love me some 2-iron. On paper it's just a tiny bit "more". Same profile, just a little stiffer throughout and a slightly higher balance point.
  15. The trick is to use it as a distraction and coping mechanism. As soon as you see the ball tailing towards trouble, shift your focus away from the middle distance and on to the cool laser etched graphics. Marvel at the machines that produced such a neat thing and before you know it you will have forgotten all about that stupid ball and whatever it's deciding to do.
  16. And to add to this @Shinogolf, here is a list of very well documented and accepted differences between the two heads that could easily explain your experience: 1) Face angle. This can vary +/- 2*, so unless you had measured angles for both heads, they could be quite different. 2) Loft. Similar as above. Your 9* head could be 8.7* or it could be 10.2* and anywhere in between (or further). 3) Lie angle. Anywhere from approx 58-61*. Not as big a factor as above though. The likelihood of these two heads that you're testing being the same spec is slim, let alone the CG differences @getitdaily mentioned.
  17. Your point? The profile images are, but not the things I wrote about them.
  18. Well not anymore! Everyone has gone soft with their wussy inserts because they're afraid. Now if you'll excuse me I have to go jump in the bath with my 8802.
  19. We all know only true men want to experience that true, firm feeling of balls hitting of their faces.
  20. I've only ever seen the laser etched graphics on limited runs of the tour only models, which was also the case for the original Rogue Silver shafts. The Tour Green/Blue sometimes had etched graphics as well, but again only in the Tour-X flex.
  21. What @Gtyler14 said. The R/S/X Flex is the cheaper OEM shaft, the TX was a premium tour only model. This is what the customer support correspondence that @IL2AZ posted from Aldila is referring to with "higher grade materials".
  22. Going with this "logic" that bigger heads take more time to square and that torque is playing a role there, wouldn't we then see a meaningful correlation when it comes to fairway wood heads then? Surely their significantly smaller heads would need LESS time to square? Meaning that we'd see higher torque shafts in fairway woods otherwise you'd have a hooking problem?
  23. When they were first available I want to say they were around the normal $350ish premium shaft price point, but since they never gained any meaningful tour traction they started appearing cheaper, but still fairly rare. Now there is a flood of them for $115-$130 on eBay, so don't jump on anything higher than that if you've gotten an offer from somewhere else.
  24. Wiping down your clubs with gun oil like you would with a carbon steel putter is the main form of "rust proofing" done to clubs, but with irons that are going to be beating into the ground you'll just be fighting a losing battle. If rust on the soles bothers you but you want to keep the clubs then you'll have to adopt a pretty strict policy on cleaning and oiling after every use since raw carbon steel will always want to oxidize.
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