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Cwebb

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  1. What kind of head design are you going to use or are interested in?
  2. in terms of solid "center" contact and the best "playable" flight for you. Obviously we can't change a drastic curve with lie angle, but slight fades and draws, pushes and pulls? Yes, those can be manipulated with lie angle....and changing lie angle can move the impact pattern in the heel toe direction on the face for some players
  3. Based on the bend profiles, I consider a PX 5.5 an S+ and a 6.0 an X flex
  4. You can describe it in a couple paragraphs, if you really want to. For me, where the face is pointed is the "face angle", in terms of it's effect on ball flight
  5. That's false, because all else equal a flatter lie angle will produce a more open face. A more open face in relation to the same swing path, will produce a different curvature
  6. Going flatter could also improve center impact pattern. For example, some players find that going flatter will move their impact away from the heel side. So if impact pattern is improved or stays good....and ball flight and proximity to the hole is improved,....but the turf contact has some more toe digging, what would you do? I think it's an easy decision for most players
  7. Nearly all the of classic sets from the distant past, had a 1* lie progression. All the classic Hogan sets for example, which many good/great players used
  8. Most players on tour don't use any lie test to fit their irons. Especially those from yesteryear
  9. I would try it. It can't really hurt to try, since you can always go back if you want to. There are players on tour who use flatter lie angles than any test would suggest is "proper". I would also consider doing a different lie progression through the set vs the one that is stock. For example, you could do a 1* lie change between clubs instead of 1/2*, so that when you get to your longer irons you could maintain more of the anti left aspect. So if your 7 iron was adjusted to a....lets say 61* lie angle, your 4 iron would then end up at a 58* lie, instead of 59.5* if the lie pro
  10. More "effective bounce" helps a lot of players. Well worth trying to see what it does for you
  11. I would try a little lead tape on those heads, while closely monitoring where each strike is on the face through the use of a foot powder spray. If it helps, it means you would benefit from a progressive swing weight or something closer to an "MOI matched" set
  12. That's the difference between sanding it down to the bare metal vs having it bead blasted. The latter has less glare than most glossy paint finishes
  13. Remember that in most wedges, a shaft will automatically play "soft stepped", because the wedge heads have longer hosels that result in longer bottom of bore to ground measurements. This makes the same shaft play softer as compared to the typical modern iron head design
  14. Don't polish after bead blasting. It looks great as is....matte medium grey. Steel and titanium come out looking exactly the same. Polishing will result in a lot of glare. If you want to reduce how much time is required in the bead blast cabinet. Do a rough sand ahead of time, which will allow the paint to blast off much quicker
  15. No. You would probably NOT see it, until getting to the 5 iron. Golfworks has an "address" pic of the 6 iron with a vertical shaft and none of the bottom of the cavity is seen. https://www.golfworks.com/maltby-ts-2-forged-iron-heads/p/ma0294/
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