Jump to content

JCAG

Advanced Members
  • Content Count

    2,370
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

80 Excellent

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Real story though some years back. I am curious to how people would respond. Customer brings a new driver to a very, very experienced clubmaker for a new (expensive )shaft to be installed. While removing the shaft, the clubmakers Mitchel shaft remover slips and creates a mar/dent on the top of the hosel. No way to repair/cover it. Clubmaker does the reshaft. Clubmaker shows the damage to the customer and says I am terribly sorry. How can make this right to you? What would you say?
  2. Not to put anybody down, but I always considered Maltby to be "real life" and Tutelman to be "more theory". Granted Maltby sells stuff and Tutelman does not. Plus newer data from Trackman, etc. shows neither of them to be totally correct. But, as you said, the differences in the lie calculations effect on a driver mean damn little to 99.9% of all golfers. Myself included.
  3. From Maltby Golf Club Design, Fitting, Alteration & Repair, 3rd Edition. I did reduce it some. He does discuss pull and curve. On the driver it is 11 feet pull let and 2 feet curve left. On the iron it is 18 and 4 feet for a total of 22 feet.
  4. This info is several years old but until someone else comes up with better: An 11* loft driver, hit 4* toe up, will be 13 feet left of target when hit 220 yards. An 48* loft iron, hit 4* toe up, will be 22 feet left of target when hit 115 yards. An 11* loft driver, hit 2* toe up, will be about 6 feet left of target when hit 220 yards. An 48* loft iron, hit 2* toe up, will be 11 feet left of target when hit 115 yards.
  5. Remember what spec actually mean. Say + or - .5 loft on a on 10* driver. That driver can be 9.5* to 10.5* and still be in spec. Say + or - 1* loft loft on a on 10* driver. That driver can be 9.0* to 11.0 * and still be in spec.
  6. You can get over 1/4in difference in club length depending on the bell cap (top end) of the grip. You can get over 1/4in difference in club length depending on who measured it. Stop worrying. Play them and enjoy.
  7. The catch is not making them. The catch is selling them.
  8. If you install the 2in tape on the shaft at a bit of an angle up and down the shaft, when you wrap the rest of the tape on the shaft there will be no wrinkles. You just need more experience with 2in tape.
  9. As Snowman said, it is called flat line frequency when all shafts are tipped identically. At one time some clubmakers were pushing it, but it seems to have died out.
  10. Always compare your existing equipment with anything new proposed. No gain, no sale.
  11. I use Winn Dri Tac Wrap Midsize. Prevents me from death gripping a smaller grip. They are also the same weight as most standard size grips (50G) so no back weighting issues. Much more durable then older Winn Wrap grips.
  12. One can achieve any swingweight they want to achieve. Just got to hang enough weight on either end of the club. When one request a length different then the OEM standard for that club, unless you specify the swingweight, they will just cut the club to the requested length. In some cases even with a requested swingweight, they will not be able to achieve it so they will get as close as they can and ship the clubs.
  13. What would be interesting is have someone send the same iron around to the OEM's and ask them to measure the length. So far we have seen the possibility of at least a 1/4 inch difference. I love when people say their clubs were say 1/2inch longer over standard when there is no standard. Some OEM's do not even use the same length standard between their product lines. I have seen as much as a 3/4 in difference Year back the old PCS had a frequency machine calibration dummy club they sent to clubmakers and a spreadsheet. They were to measure the CPM and enter the reading i
×
×
  • Create New...