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Stuart_G

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  1. Never put it in play but I messed around with one for a little bit. I was pretty impressed with the stiffness they were able to get with such a light shaft. Not quite a true NV tip stiffness but pretty close - and I was always more a fan of the Aldila Blue shafts anyways - for which it's actually a pretty good match. It didn't' hurt the game at all but it also didn't add anything to my game - but I tend to be a lot less sensitive to shaft weight so the swing didn't change much whether it's a 48 gm shaft or a 68 gm shaft in the driver. But that's me, everyone is different.
  2. I've tried both. The i95 Stiffs were a bit too stout for me so never really played them in a full set. That was before the fc90's were released so found the recoil 95's to be a better fit (soft stepped) but settled for the Aldila VS Proto 100's - which were really good - but unfortunately no longer made. When the fc90's came out, I thought they (stiff flex) might be a bit too soft for me. They were very noticeably softer than the i95s. But I eventually came to like them quite a bit and now play them in my main set. So if you want a bit more loading feel, it would be a good one to try. If it's too soft, go to the Recoil 95's - that's right between the fc90's and i95's in stiffness.
  3. Not recommended. Pick the shaft for consistency and dispersion and accuracy (shot shape control). Then pick the head and loft (bend if necessary) for launch and spin. Trying to chase launch and spin with shafts might work but it ends up as a wild goose chase more often then not.
  4. No that's generally not torque. it could be a lot of things or a combination of multiple things. Just to name a few: playing length too long, head weight too high for the playing length, shaft too stiff or too soft, shaft weight too heavy or light, grip size not the best, face angle of the head too open, lie angle too flat, ....
  5. Using the larger grips - yes. Or you can look for other options that are as big, but not quite as heavy - more options are starting to become available. That's largely since the build up tape to get a smaller grip to the same size will typically add almost as much weight as just going with the larger grip in the first place. But grip size is really the first step in the fitting process and the rest of the club should be build/fit around the best grip for you. But "let the feel take care of itself?" No. First step after changing grip weight is to refit yourself for head weight. Forget what the swing weight scale might say, that's the wrong tool for the job. Instead, go to the range and hit some balls. Use lead tape to test heavier, choke up to test lighter. Eventually you should be able to find a good fit. Then you can use the swing weight scale to measure and duplicate it in the rest of the set. Usually that will be enough but in the cases where it's not, it may mean needing to find a lighter shaft since grip weight is really more (or as much) about adding to the total static weight of the shaft then it is about swing weight or head weight.
  6. Technically speaking it's a resistance to (rotational) acceleration. So in theory higher values could result in slower swing speed or need more strength to get the same club head speed. But that's different from controlling it once you've put it in motion. In reality the differences are much more subtle than that and the consequences a bit more complex. And it's not necessarily about strength to over come the higher MOI but more related to how the club feels compared to what you're used to it feeling and how that different feel effects your swing - particularly sequencing and timing. Short answer, you learn the swing with a certain feel of resistance, and when that feel changes, it can throw things out of wack. It is. It usually requires special machinery (that not even fitters/builders bother to get) or it can be calculated via the CAD model.
  7. I'm willing to keep an open mind, but from what I've read, the actual physical location of the bend point (or how it moves) has been debunked as being in any way useful as a meaningful evaluation of the shaft stiffness properties. I'd be more interested in total deflection measurements - or possibly even Russ's EI integrals (area under the EI chart) as a more representative assessment of the change in stiffness.
  8. Fair enough - but I've never been a fan of those EI charts w/o actual numbers. So it's hard to say but the dip doesn't really look deep enough to me to fully negate the effects of tip trimming. And I don't think Aldila would recommend 1" for fairways if it didn't do anything to help counter the added weight of the fairway heads. There is also enough anecdotal evidence of others tipping the green to add some potential validity that tipping may help.
  9. No never used it my self but seen some (rare) posts of others using it - so might want to try a search. But here are some random thoughts on it: My biggest concern would be that duct tape adhesive could potentially be a PITA to remove/clean from the shaft when it comes time to change it out. 10 mils is 0.010" - which if accurate is not really all that much thicker than either double sided or some of the thicker single sided build up tape. Any attempt to add build up tape is going to result in a firmer grip due to the extra stretching. Using duct tape isn't going to change that.
  10. That was their original foray into graphite shafts. The predecessor of the TGI - that they don't make any more. Unfortunately, I haven't seen any actual comparisons of that shaft relative to the TGI. The TGI could be a new shaft or (more likely) just a rebranding of the original with or without some minor tweaks.
  11. Correct. Head weight is really the key to managing swing weight on longer length builds. Unfortunately (for the sake of getting a clear answer to that question), there are LOTS of options available and most evaluations of those options by others here on the forum will always be very subjective. So the only way to get any kind of useful answer is to just get out and test as many options as you can get your hands on. That's the only way to get any answers that are applicable to your swing and your preferences for feel.
  12. Just realize for the asymmetric adapters, the 'standard' setting doesn't stay 'standard' when you switch handedness of the adapter. Not familiar with Mizuno's adapter so can't say if that applies to it or not.
  13. The general rule of thumb is: Loft settings will be reversed, lie angles will be the same. Just realize that, "Loft settings reversed" doesn't always mean just turning a '+' adjustment into a '-' adjustment. That only happens if the max adjustment is symmetrical. e.g the max '+' adjustment amount is the same as the max '-' adjustment amount. TM and Ping are symmetrical (+1.5* to -1.5* or +2.0* to -2.0*), Callaway and Titleist are not symmetrical (e.g. Callaway goes from +2* to -1* for callaway).
  14. No. Droop is normal and expected. Some shafts will generate more or less with your swing depending on the stiffness - but there is no right or wrong amount or too much. That's assuming the dot placement on the face was good enough for an accurate reading from the LM. Regardless, it's not something you need to focus on during the fitting. As long as you are getting good face impact position and good ball flight results (relative to other shaft options), that's all that really matters in picking a shaft. And consistency/dispersion is really the key for finding the right shaft (not launch/spin).
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