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Stuart_G

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  1. Sorry - but I don't know the difference between the two. You'd probably have to contact Aldila to get more details on that. However, performance is always going to be a function of fit, not price. Actually price has very little to do with performance. Price might expand the potential range of stiffness profiles achievable but it's still up to the designer to pick the final profile. And whether that profile happens to be a better or worse fit will depend on the relationship of the profile to your swing and preferences, not the cost. So more then likely it just has a slightly different profile that just happens not to be as good a fit as the less expensive green. It's also possible there might have been something else about the build that caused problems. Swing weight - butt size and therefore grip size, etc... not really enough details to come to any definite conclusions. True but lots of the other shafts he's been fit into and have played successfully are pretty stout as well.
  2. If you want to refresh an old wedge - forget about the grooves, instead sandblast the face. Grooves are to channel away moisture. For most shots that's not going to be an issue unless you only play in the morning dew. For most clean shots, the surface of the face is where the vast majority of the friction comes from and therefore the spin. New wedges have a certain amount of surface roughness to the face - this smooths out over time and that's what causes the spin to drop. A sandblasting will get that back.
  3. There is no device out there that can account for the subjective aspect of how well a shaft does or does not fit to a player. All those tools can do is provide a starting place for the fitting process based on rough generalizations of what tends to be a higher percentage chance of being a good fit. Which is a big difference from using actual results to verify that it's a good fit. A good fitter learns to see how the those subjective responses effect the swing and the results and uses that to find the best fit - including the importance of how much confidence the feel generates (or not). A bad fitter thinks of those devises as gospel or is fixated on generalizations and things like: such and such a swing speed or type of player must play a certain kind of shaft or can't play some other type of shaft. If you find any fitter that says you should or shouldn't play a certain shaft w/o being able to show you the data in the actual testing results to back it up - leave them and find someone else.
  4. Going to depend on a lot of things. Your mechanics and how good a fit the stiffness profile is to your swing. Also how sensitive you are to changes in stiffness. But in general, for most ams it's only a really subtle change in feel. You might notice a difference - you might not. Don't expect any changes in ball flight. Good way to test how the feel will change before doing anything major is to add 7 gm to the head with lead tape and go test choking up 1/2" (to keep the swing weight the same). The half inch shorter will not effect the stiffness feel.
  5. In theory yes - but in reality no. Face angle in irons just doesn't have a practical influence since the "naturally soled position" of the head is too unstable to use. However, bending can change the amount of offset - which for some can have a big influence on how comfortable one is at aiming the face.
  6. The whippy'ness and effect on your tempo is not the heads. Those shafts are a bad fit. It's clear too soft a shaft is not a good fit for your swing - so what benefits do you think your might gain going down in flex? Do your current shafts feel too stiff? The only benefit to going softer would come if you it resulted in an improvement in the stiffness feel of the shaft. So far at least, going softer has not improved the stiffness feel, it's made it worse. Don't get me wrong, nothing wrong with testing/demoing other options. That of course is the only way to find out the answers to what might be the best fit. But just because your shafts might be stiffer than is typically played by someone with your swing speed doesn't mean you're loosing anything by continuing to play them or you have anything to gain by going softer.
  7. Correct. Only 350 adapters I've seen for Ping are the CMX from Billy Bob's - and they don't look anything like the OEM adapter. And also they only have them for the g30-g400, not the g410 or g425.
  8. There are no optimal numbers for irons. You can only judge by how well it fits into your game with the rest of your set - balancing carry distance with stopping power (distance control). It's also largely determined by your swing - more so than the equipment. You can alter the loft a bit to tweak it - just don't expect major changes w/o having to make changes to the swing and delivery. Although sometimes playing with swing weight (head weight) can be used to slow down the release a bit and reduce the dynamic loft (increase shaft lean at impact) so never hurts to play around with some lead tape.
  9. More likely they are spec'd to not need any tipping and Ping decided to not alter the tipping for the different heads. Not the typical situation but not unheard of either. It will play a little softer in the heavier heads but that could be to allow for a bit extra launch. There is no "right" or "wrong" here - just different approaches that may better suit different individuals. Most wont be bothered by the slight change in stiffness. Since the adapter is already installed - the safest route would be to (as you've decided) not do any additional tipping (BTW it is possible - just requires the adapter to be pulled and reinstalled). BUT before butt cutting - go test it as is choking up (the 1") to the desired length. That will give you a feel for how it will play once cut down with no tipping. IF it's fine, go ahead and butt cut to length. But if you find it's playing a little softer than you'd prefer that will give you the option to tip trim 1/2" or the 1" depending on how soft it feels.
  10. The most important point is that when you change shaft weight or playing length, you should NOT even try to maintain the same swing weight. You really need to refit yourself for swing weight. Go to the range with lead tape and add it incrementally and adjust by feel and performance, not by swing weight value. However to answer the question - most likely not but .... It really depends on the specific model shaft. Most (but not all) shaft designers will adjust the balance point such that the change in shaft weight will not effect the swing weight at all significantly. That's why the "rule" for the effect of shaft weight on swing weight is completely useless, it doesn't account for the changes in balance point that are very common in modern shafts. With driver shafts it's even more unpredictable as to what can happen to the balance point with different amounts of "counterbalancing" (really balance point adjustments) to help swing weight with longer playing lengths. So short answer is you wont know what will happen to the swing weight until you actually install the shaft and put it on a scale.
  11. No it's not. It's two pieces but just comes with the ferrule already installed into the aluminum adapter. You could have easily separated the two pieces before gluing. What you're seeing left on the shaft is the ferrule and the epoxy.
  12. It happens a lot - well it's not a high percentage problem so maybe it's better to say that it's not uncommon at all. The problem is clearly that the epoxy did not get a good bond with the aluminum adapter. Either because of some contaminant left over from the manufacturing process of the adapter or because it's just too smooth of a surface for the glue to get a good hold on. For the Ping adapters it's even more critical to get a good joint since the insertion depth is so short - and the area of the glue is much less because of the insertion depth of the ferrule collar. For that reason alone I much prefer the CMX aftermarket adapters over the Ping OEM adapter (can get at Billy Bob's golf). Clean the epoxy off of the shaft tip. Clean the inside of the adapter with alcohol or acetone (let dry thoroughly) Use sandpaper or a file to roughen up the inside surface of the adapter. Reglue.
  13. Depends on what you do with the head weight. That's what really matters for the shaft performance, not the length. 1) If you butt cut and don't change the head weight, the swing weight will drop but the shaft will play the same. 2) If you butt cut and add head weight to keep the swing weight the same the shaft will play a little bit softer. 3) If you tip trim and add weight, it will play the same. 4) If you tip trim and don't add weight, it will play a small amount stiffer.
  14. Sorry, sounded like you were having a hard time finding another alta so went with an alternative. Yes, there are no published specs but you can always contact Ping CS to get the answer. If the shaft you bought was a pull you also may have to know what hybrid it was pulled from to know how much it might already been tipped.
  15. Yes, they are two completely different stiffness profiles. The i-series have a much stiffer tip section (for lower launch/spin) than the fc and not flighted like the FC's. The two will feel nothing like each other for most players. The FC 115's also are better balanced than the i110's and will swing weight much better. If you're really looking for an alternative in graphite, the UST recoil 110's would be a closer match to the FC's than the i110's - but even those are going to be a bit stiffer than the FC's so should soft step the recoils once or twice for the best match.
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