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Stuart_G

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Everything posted by Stuart_G

  1. Can't say for sure - never tried either shaft but I think you're logic is off. In general, the stiffer the shaft, the more vibrations are transmitted and the more you'd feel them. Might be that way with most steel - but I doubt the relationship is that simple with composite shafts. But in reality, dampening and stiffness are not the same thing. Think of it the same as the the difference between the springs in your car's suspension (stiffness) and the shock absorbers (dampers). In theory it is possible to increase dampening w/o effecting stiffness. How successful they might have been is a different matter - which I can't answer.
  2. New used to be closer to $8k (varied depending on if you could catch a sale or not). Used seems to be in the $5-6k range.
  3. What's the point of making that distinction? It might measure out to 48" when it's not in her hands, but she doesn't use all of those 48". What she actually uses is the only thing that matters during the swing. That applies to everyone. Choking up or cutting down - there is no difference.
  4. Of course I was. But you seem to be assuming that I didn't already find it
  5. True but they tend to be pretty reliable. The main thing that might need service is the battery and I'd expect to be able to get replacements for that a lot longer than any other type of support. Even then Flightscope seems to be much better than any of the other OEM's at giving out deals to upgrade when support goes away. I know they made some really good offers to the X2 owners when that went out of service for the X3's. And I've even seen some similar incentives come my way to upgrade the Xi Tour to the X3. Unfortunately my sim software doesn't (or didn't) ever have X3 support added and I have no interest in having to upgrade both the LM and the software.
  6. I know you're just trying to be funny - but I'm bored so I figured why not address this kind of commonly held but misguided argument. Some readers might start to actually believe it's a valid point. 1) We feel the weight of the club through our hands - specifically the palms and fingers - which just happen to be one of the places on our body with a very high degree of sensory perception. The wrist were the watch sits, is not really all that sensitive. And the muscles that control our arm/wrist motion are much bigger and less sensitive than the ones that are used to hold the club. 2) People frequently confuse static weight with dynamic weight. The motion and effort to accelerate the club significantly amplifies the resistance that we feel from the club well above what it might be just holding it still in our hands. So take that watch off your wrist and tape it to the shaft instead. Then you're much more likely to notice the difference. The further down the shaft you tape it, the greater the effect of a small weight change can be on the feel. Now am I saying that a few grams difference in the TI vs non-TI is going to make a difference to most ams? No, not at all. For some it might only take 5 gm's. For others it might take 10 gm or more of shaft weight before it's noticeable. Everyone has to find their own level of sensitivity.
  7. Haven't used Mevo+ - but from what I've read it seems to be sensitive to setup alignment. The auto-level functionality of the X series could potentially make a big difference in that respect. As far as working on the swing, if you're going to be at the range anyways - not sure the units w/o club data would be all that helpful in that particular context. There is little they can tell you about the quality of your swing that you can't already see by watching the ball flight. The biggest benefit (IMO) of PLM's in working on the swing is to allow practice at times when going to the range is not practical or possible. (e.g. bad weather, after dark, off season work, shorter time windows, etc..). They provide useful data and feedback on the ball flight in the cases where you can't see it yourself. Units with club data can be helpful - but only if you already understand your mechanics and what the proper/best fix might be. Then the numbers can then be used to track progress and effectiveness of the changes. Without that understanding, the added information can actually be detrimental. Many have gone down the rabbit hole of trying to chase LM numbers just for the sake of hitting some arbitrary targets - which may or may not actually be good for their swing. Basic understanding of video swing analysis is always going to be way more important and useful at helping the swing than LM's will be. LM's can only supplement that type of work, not replace it. I have an Xi Tour and rarely bother to take it to the range (even with the club data). When I do, it's mostly to help adjust the clubs (e.g. distance gapping), not my swing. But I'll still frequently take a tripod for video's.
  8. Stuart_G

    R11

    You can start by just adding some lead tape to the shafts to simulate a heavier option. Wrap it around the shaft about 4-5" below the bottom of the grip and add it in 10 gm increments while testing on the range. You should be able to find the best shaft weight for you and your swing that way - much better than just guessing by buying a set with heavier shafts.
  9. First of all, there is no single 'right' or 'wrong' way to do it. The difference will rarely be significant in terms of the end performance of the club. What's important is that you pick a method and stay consistent with using that method. And also that you fit for head weight/swing weight with a club that was build with the same method. However, what I personally do is use a fixed 1/8" to account for the grip cap - regardless of what the cap size is for the actual grip I happen to be using at the time.
  10. For iron shafts, I'm pretty set in my ways as well. Although as age keeps slowing down the swing, that may change. I transitioned from shaft ho'ing to really focusing on mechanics instead about 5 years ago - maybe a bit more.
  11. Just a friendly warning. For some, pulling, building, and tinkering with the clubs can become addictive.
  12. Depends on what shafts you work with and how quickly you learn to properly apply the heat and pressure. For some it will be much less expensive to use the cheaper puller - and they will work - they just are not quite as convenient to use. But all it takes is to make a mistake and ruin one modern premium driver shaft (or a couple premium iron shafts) - and it no longer will be the less expensive route Don't get me wrong - I understand the thought process and did the same thing for my first puller (although it was the golfsmith economy puller, not the golfworks one). But it didn't take me long to change my mind about investing a bit more money in a better one. But I also knew I'd be using it on a more regular basis than maybe you think you'll be using it.
  13. I know of someone who was able to get a replacement by contacting Aerotech directly, they sometimes have left over inventory on hand - but I wouldn't count on that. The good news is that graphite shafts are a lot more durable and less prone to breakage than steel shafts so it's pretty rare as long as you take half way decent care of them. i-series (and am2's) have a noticeably different stiffness profile (stiffer tip sections) than the fc series. If you prefer that stiff tip feeling (some might say 'stout', some might say 'stable') then the i-series is the way to go. If you like to feel a bit of loading and kick through impact - go with the fc series. Also, i110's have a bit of a high balance point. That means that either they are going to be very good for over length builds - or need some extra tip weights to get 'normal' swing weights at 'standard' length builds. It's a bit of a pain for the builder but not something that can't be overcome. It also means they will play more like 115 gm shafts after the tip weights are added.
  14. I'd even go a step further for beginners at pulling graphite. The spring loading can help keep the shaft from being overheated since it's much more obvious when the epoxy finally releases. And keep one from applying too much force before the epoxy lets go. Two ways that graphite shafts can still be easily damaged in a puller. Pulling too hard, too soon relative to the "right" amount of applied heat - or pulling too late. If one isn't in a hurry, they frequently have e-mail special notifications where this one is at about the same price as the one w/o the spring (~$50 off). Or at least they used to. Not sure I've been keeping up with any changes. https://www.golfworks.com/the-golfworks-enhanced-graphite-shaft-extractor/p/gw1009/
  15. Furyk plays Reg flex iron shafts. It's not common for that swing speed but it's not unheard of either. Especially if that's what you've become used to swinging. Shaft weight is generally much more important. And there is no standard for stiffness/flex. So there could very well be stiff flex shafts out there that are softer than your reg flex. Never look at flex labels blindly. You have to look at the specific make/model shaft to understand what the flex label really means in terms of stiffness. There is no automatic or inherent disadvantage to playing softer shafts - or automatic improvements for going up in flex. For some the softer flex might even help keep the transition smooth. How good or bad a fit it is or how it might effect the ball fight results is really ALL about how the feel effects your swing - which makes it completely subjective. Some can still do very will with the softer flexes, some may struggle quite a bit. The ONLY way to know - is to go test/try other (stiffer) options and compare the results side-by-side with your current clubs. Unless you do the work yourself, it's usually more cost effective to get a used set with the appropriate shafts than it is to reshaft. BUT as I said above, you will never know what the better fitting shaft will be until you try them first. Don't just blindly buy any set just because the flex label says "stiff". That would just be a random roll of the dice as to whether you end up with a better fit or a worse fit.
  16. It's typical for 1/2" more tipping in the 5wd vs 3wd BUT it can vary for different shaft models and not all factory installation even bother paying attention to the shaft OEM recommendations. If you want to expand that to non-factory installations - practices can vary even more. Can you compare the position of the graphics relative to the adapter/tip end for the two shafts? That would be the best indicator of different tipping if they do use the same adapter. But it could also be just the length difference - or the different combination of length and head weight - or a combination of all 3.
  17. As an FYI, it also assumes 1/2" length gaps between the clubs in the set. e.g. 7i shaft will be the same (cut) weight as the 8i shaft as long as the 7i shaft is 1/2" longer (cut shaft length) than the 8i shaft. Doesn't really matter what the final length is, just what the length increments are in the set.
  18. If you went from the 110 gm KBS to the 95 gm Nippons - and the ballooning got worse, 99% chance it was the drop in shaft weight. What was the original shaft? Most stock wedge shafts tend to be TT DG wedge (s200 or s300) which are 127-130 gm shafts. Again, no way to be certain but there is a good chance it was the drop in shaft weight that was the root problem. Lighter weight can often mean faster or earlier release - which means more dynamic loft at impact. For wedges, weight will almost always contribute more to dynamic loft changes than anything the stiffness profile changes might do. You can use lead tape around the shaft (about 4-5" below the bottom of the grip) to test the theory above. Add enough to simulate the original shaft weight and see what happens. Another possibility is that you can try loading on the lead tape to the head to increase the swing weight. That might make up for the lighter shaft weight and slow down the release. You can always bend the loft stronger to make up for the different delivery.
  19. It's a bit of an over generalization - and those should never be followed blindly. Shorter length is certainly a good first step - but it's also very important that the shaft weight and head weight are in sync with the playing length. The weight contributions being a good fit is just as important (if not more so) than just looking at the playing length alone. More loft only really helps significantly enough to make a difference in the context of switching club selection. Choosing a 3wd over a driver for a particular tee shot is certainly one way to improve accuracy. But that does NOT mean that picking an 11* or 12* driver over a 9* or 10* driver is going to make any appreciable difference in accuracy. It's not the commonly perceived effect of the loft on the spin axis (more backspin = less axis tilt) that is what is increasing the accuracy. That's a very common misconception. It's really the fact that the increase in loft decreases the distance - and less total distance means less distance offline on an errant shot. So a few degrees (and no playing length change) isn't going to have that big of an effect on the total distance offline. So throw out the idea that driver loft selection is going to provide any significant help in the accuracy department. Instead stick to (in this order): 1a) playing length 1b) grip size a good fit. 2) shaft weight 3) head weight 4) head MOI 5) face angle (for some - can be higher up on list) 6) shaft stiffness profile not a poor fit (for some can be higher up on the list)
  20. No reason to be skeptical of graphite - but if you really do have average swing speeds, I might question the light weight of the shaft selected. Shaft weight can have a significant effect on rhythm and tempo and consistency and dispersion - especially when under pressure on the course and when you don't have multiple swings to groove the feel with the lighter clubs like you did during the fitting. Also, hitting just two shaft options isn't really much of a fitting. The fact that you hit one better than the other is good but it's a far cry from telling anyone that it really is the best fit for you. So what numbers where you actually looking at? How did they actually feel? Did you use impact tape or similar (foot powder spray) to judge the quality and consistency of the face impact location? Did you have a club from your current set there to compare the results to? FYI - Shaft should be selected based on accuracy, consistency, dispersion, and shot shape control, not launch and spin or distance. Those numbers should be reserved for the head and loft selection.
  21. Never hurts to play around with the lead tape - or choking up to see if length is a factor. If that doesn't work, you might try tipping the current shaft 1" to see if that helps (an extension can be used to get some of that length back). The fact that that shaft stands out as being that much softer than the others could be important.
  22. Typically playing length, shaft weight and swing weight have the biggest influence on dispersion. In some cases, the shaft stiffness can have an effect as well and this here is an indication that it is likely softer than the other shafts you're used to. Whether that's the primary reason for the dispersion or whether something else might be influencing the results is impossible to say for sure but if it's the biggest difference that stands out, it's likely the best place to start.
  23. Not sure where JimY got his data, but I prefer this chart - which puts 30 microns closer to 400 grit (maybe the other source really means P600?). https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/abrasive-conversion-chart.html Can't say for sure which source is more accurate.
  24. You want to use a finer grit than you would with steel, but not that fine. You want to remove the paint, not polish it As long as one is not careless, no real need or benefit to go much finer than 220 grit. Haven't' done any testing, but much finer than that and you might cause epoxy adhesion problems.
  25. Weight and stiffness can certainly cause changes to the swing - tempo, rhythm and more. And of course changes to the swing can cause additional changes to the feel of the shaft stiffness beyond what the stiffness profile data might indicate. So it has the potential to be a very complex relationship between the actual specs and actual feels - more so than the numbers might indicate.
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