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Murdock

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  1. It's hard for me to tell, because I've also switched to graphite shafts, so I've changed 2 variables. I hit maybe 40 balls the other night at the range with overlap grip and then played 18 holes the following day with an interlock, and I didn't see a ton of difference. YMMV though. Could you elaborate a little more on the wrist movements you're referencing @Hawkeye77? I'm thinking this route, along with switching to graphite, would be a logical approach since golfer's elbow stems from the wrist/hand/finger....so would be useful for many of us (including me).
  2. Sorry to rehash a semi-old thread, but I've spent the last 2 nights looking for anecdotal evidence on the same exact thing you are mentioning. I've went back and forth between interlocking and overlapping (my overlap isn't a 'true' overlap, my pinky sits in the crease between my index and ring finger and not on top of index finger) for years. I've been dealing with a pretty bad bout of golfers elbow and during this time, my instructor told me to get my trail hand (right hand) more on top of the grip (neutral/weak). So I was using various training aides to 'force' me to do this. During this time, it seemed to me that if I went back to an interlock grip, I was able to keep my hand more neutral and prevent it from slipping/sliding to a strong position. Fast forward, and my elbow hurts like h*ll. In addition, I was testing new shafts at PGASS and Edwin Watts, hitting off mats, and at that same time I went from having a draw to a pure block. One of the instructors there (that I know) said "you just have to rotate and close the face more". Doing this seemed to REALLY hurt the elbow. So, I tried to just do practice swings and see what may have been causing the tension in the elbow. Seemed to me that the over rotation of my trail hand near the top of my swing and more so on the downswing (to close the face - for reference), put my arm/wrist in a stressed position, and it seemed even worse with the interlock grip as it makes me inadvertently grip the club harder with that hand. I read on another post that someone's PT said that the interlock grip pulls on the pinky finger and thus, can cause/aggravate golfers elbow. Haven't hit a ton of balls going back to the overlap grip, but did seem to allow me to have less pressure/grip force on my right hand, which in turn should help golfers elbow? In any event, OP, have you seen a difference in your elbow pain since switching? I don't really want to reinvent the wheel with my swing/grip and I did switch back to SteelFibers, but that didn't seem to cure things 'overnight' while still using the interlock grip. Time will tell about graphite/vardon grip combination.
  3. Same here, I've checked it multiple times and it never gives me the option to upgrade to 3.4
  4. I know the slant neck has a ton of toe hang, but I can't picture it with a mallet for some reason. Any way you could post a pic? Assuming the black one is still available Any trade options?
  5. @DFDLT Just for the future, I'm guessing the reason the inflator needle actually worked is the tape excess on the butt of the shaft adequately sealed the shaft enough, to where when you pushed the needle in, it punctured a small hole in the tape and subsequently was somewhat sealed. Typically, that won't work because it let's too much air release out of the butt end of the grip, if the end isn't tightly sealed. Remember, you want the air to travel down the shaft, out the butt end and under the grip. If you ever want to use the air method again I'd suggest going to a big box store and getting one of these...you can just jam in the smallest tip and it seals perfectly:
  6. Thanks for the clarification @Stuart_G, I couldn't remember the exact term, been a while since I took Mechanics of Materials and didn't feel like breaking out the book. But thankfully you knew what I was trying to say
  7. No offense but I don't agree with this. I'd never use above 80psi and normally around 40-60. But, I dont use a tube either. With higher psi you have to be real precise on your feathering of the compressor gun, otherwise it'll balloon and bust in one second. Also, I think that if you expand the grip to that extent, it will hold some sort of material memory and possibly won't be the same ID afterwards. Using lower pressure you have to take a little longer, but you have more freedom with the gun. You don't have to balloon the grip to get the air layer between the grip and tape, usually when I do it you can hear the grip slip a little bit, but not balloon or deflect ..then it's just a matter of feathering a few more shots of air and pulling grip off. No matter what, common sense when working with tools like this would be to start low with your psi and work your way up if the grip isn't budging. Not the other way around. Once you balloon a grip and it ruptures, you'll never want to do that again. It's not pleasant I'll let some of the OGs comment on this though, maybe times have changed and high pressure is recommended now?
  8. 2nd this recommendation, maybe add the ZX7's to the mix as well
  9. **INSERT FOOT INTO MOUTH** Sorry, I clearly have no concept of time Sounds like ole' Kizzare needs a break from golf
  10. Similar, while I do like blowing on grips, I'll only do it with certain ones because some will slip...eventually. I've actually had a grip start to twist on me after several weeks/months of installing. Can't remember which grip it was, and I have no idea why eventually it decided to slip (certainly something to do with environmental conditions I'm guessing), but it did. Had to re-do the set because they all started twisting to a certain degree.
  11. So you're saying you put the new 2 sided tape on, but forgot to peel off the top liner? I've done that before, sad to say. That liner is wax faced or something, so it's not adhered solid to the adhesive portion of the 2-sided tape. It will twist, maybe not come off. I know mine was able to easily be twisted after solvent was dry....it was readily apparent something was wrong. If yours isn't able to be twisted, then you could give it a shot, but I'm imagine that liner will come detached at some point and cause the grip to slip.
  12. If it's the incident that I'm thinking of, Kizzire broke his driver. Although he didn't pull a Stenson and snap it over his knee, he put it over his shoulders and flexed the shaft a little too much. Saw it on PGA Tour Live. His incident in particular I could understand, because the hole it occurred on and the one before he couldn't keep his driver on the course. Was astonishing to watch to be honest, a PGA level tour pro hitting not just one, but probably 4 shots on a mishit/shank trajectory.....like 45+ degrees off line from his target
  13. 1. City and State? Daytona Beach, FL 2. Handicap? 12 3. Current irons? Mizuno JPX 921 Forged 4. Current Iron Shafts? Steelfiber i110 CW 5. What weight KBS PGI shafts would you like to test? (50G-100G). 100g - stiff 6. Do you agree to participate in an ongoing testing thread, posting reviews and photos? Yes, absolutely!
  14. As an update, the masking tape seemed to do the trick. Although I haven't hit them with a full speed swing yet, but have chipped around the house/yard and no rattle. I will say that it takes some trial and error to find the right amount of tape to use. I didn't want to drill out anymore of the shaft I.D., so I just left it at 5/32". So I ended up using a 1/2" wide strip of tape that just barely overlapped when wrapped around, and had to twist the weight to get it down the shaft (like a screw basically). 2 of the 3 worked after the 1st re-build; the 3rd didn't. This was because it was so tight getting the weight in, that I left probably 1/3 of the bottom of the weight stem unwrapped. Bad idea, as it rattled from the get-go. So had to re-build that one, which took WAY longer than I anticipated because I couldn't get the weight to go in without bunching up/removing the masking tape. Probably took me a solid 6 tries before I got it in on the 7th. So far this last club seems good, but time will tell once I hit a ball full speed with it. But, at least now I have an idea of what to do in event this happens....and I'll be sure to drill it out to 11/64" next time to give me some more wiggle room (pun intended).
  15. All items include shipping within lower 48 (DM me if you're in Pacific Northwest so I can check rates first -- seen some crazy high rates!!). If you're in Hawaii, Puerto Rico or Canada, DM me and I'll get you a custom shipping quote. (1) Srixon ZX7 5-GW and ZX5 4, 5 and 6 iron. Had these custom built by Cleveland/Srixon at all the same specs to test out potential combo sets. I'll include the build sheet for reference but they are PX LZ 6.5 shafts at standard length, +1 degree upright, Blue multi-compound grips with 1 extra wrap under bottom hand. Some of the clubs haven't been hit that I can remember, others like the ZX7 7I have a few rounds on them and a few range sessions. The ZX7 7 iron definitely shows most wear. Very minor bag chatter, if any. Unfortunately, the ZX5's flew too high and after a brief honeymoon period with the ZX7's, I figured I should check my ego and go with a more forgiving player's distance iron. **ZX5's sold** **ZX7s SOLD** ZX7 Pics: ZX5 Pics: **SOLD** (2) KBS TGI 70 iron shafts - 4 to GW - one time pull, shafts look in mint condition and I can't see a mark on them anywhere. Standard length (came from Mizunos). Tips aren't prepped. Standard size Mizuno grips. $220 $200 (3) SWAG Zangief Blade Head Cover - unopened package - *SOLD* (4) SWAG Popsicle Towel - FedEx bag has been opened to take pictures but that's it (no secondary packaging like with headcovers). *SOLD* (5) Bridgestone JGR Forged iron heads - 4 through GW - faces have wear but soles are in pretty good shape. *SOLD* (6) Rogue 130MSI 70X 3 Wood Shaft. 1 time pull from a Callaway Mavrik 3 wood. Excellent Condition *SOLD* (7) Fujikura Fuel Tour Spec 70X with Callaway Adapter. $40 OBO **DM me for price if you're in PST time zone so I can check shipping first (7) Fujikura ATMOS Tour Spec 60S with Callaway Adapter. *SOLD*
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