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Everything posted by Murdock

  1. Anyone so kind to have a code that could help me out? I'll definitely pay it forward after my order. Thanks!
  2. Here's the video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOs3HdVWytY
  3. What did you use to remove the weights? Center weight especially? The center screws on mine are the security type with the center pin. Went and got some torx security bits and still couldn't get the bit to seat properly. Although, I suspect the T20 in this particular set is defective so maybe ill have better luck with a different one. ** I see you already answered this previously @BirdieBob, apologies** Will PXG tell me build specs if I'm not original owner? Probably easier than removing the weight to see what weight they used. I'll need at least 6, up to 10 grams, in order to get to D2/D3 and I've already got gobs of lead tape on the back. So if I decide to keep them I'd rather do it with the weight than lead tape.
  4. What about using a micro torch instead of indirect heat? The video I saw of PXG building clubs on this site showed the builder using a standard propose torch with a large diameter flame...so figured micro torch might be better? Could try both ways I suppose, start with indirect first. Are you referring the large center weight is available on AliExpress? I couldn't find it anywhere (didn't check Ali just yet though)
  5. Not to thread jack, but how are you able to change the center weight in the Gen4? Did they sell you some aftermarket weights? I'm dealing with a BST purchase on here where the SW (and general static weight feel) is too low, and I'm trying to figure out what to do, whether I just sell them or try and bump up the SW/head weight. Strange thing is, I have a set of 921 Forged that I built (similar shafts SteelFiber i110 in 921 and fc115 in PXG -- yes I know they are different and likely have different balance points, but closer to each other than DG vs SF), and both clubs weighed exact same static, but 2 SW points lower on the fc115 GEN4's...so I added lead tape to bring it to D2 and it still feels light to me...noticeably lighter, which is strange with same swingweight and 4g higher (after lead tape) with the PXG's. I don't know if they use varying weights with the smaller screws on the perimeter of the club (like they used to do for swing weighting the old Gens), or if those are the same weight no matter what, and they only use the large center weight to adjust swingweight. Anyone know this answer by any chance? Haven't had the opportunity to call PXG to ask, but I'm doubting they'd tell me either way.
  6. I'm dealing with the same issue with some GEN4's. I wonder if calling PXG they can tell you what weights were put in what slots, and therefore what the depth of them is? That way you don't have to play whack-a-mole with the weights to find one that actually fit. That being said, does anyone know if the side (smaller) screws in the GEN4 are used for swing weighting? Or just the center, large weight? Just curious if it would even make sense to change the perimeter weights out, if they already have the 4g weights in there then no use.
  7. He has the price at $325, not $750? He says retail $750 but obviously he's way off one way or the other by posting a club like that for $325. That is LOL funny! Sucker born everyday I guess?
  8. Amen to that @RmoorePE, I'm the same as you (PE with my own firm 10+ years and other small businesses), and I've learned over the years that the people trying to low ball you are typically the ones who you have to chase after for payment. BUT, a golf instructor charging $500/hour, if they don't have the chops to do so, is asking for major backlash/issues down the road. That's the unfortunate position of society these days. Furthermore, technical professionals (whether doctors, engineers, architects, etc) have a ton of liability if their end product/deliverable doesn't work or outright fails. A golf instructor doesn't have any real liability except hurting someone's feelings.
  9. Used to teach in Lake Mary (north of Orlando), to further narrow it down? I looked into getting some with him as well, and before I reached out I read somewhere before that he wasn't even doing in person lessons anymore, the online portion of his lesson business (which he now has like 5 instructors) has been doing so well. No issues whatsoever with the guy building a very successful online lesson business, and kudos to him for doing so. I'm not bashing him because I don't personally know him, just wanted to clarify that. I do like his videos, and he seems like a helluva player himself (or he's great at editing...you never see him miss a shot it seems). It might be that due to the online stuff, he doesn't have time to do in-person lessons? So instead of rejecting you completely, he just way over-priced it. Similar to what contractors, engineers and architects do when we don't really want a job, but don't want to tell someone to pound sand...you just price it like 4x your normal price and hope they walk away.
  10. Can we guess who these YouTube instructors are? I'm guessing one used to work, or does still work in Central Florida? He's got good stuff online but no way would I pay that when I've got an actual teaching pro nearby who plays, to this day, in tour events and is less than 1/5 that
  11. 1. Must subscribe to Club Champion's YouTube channel Done 2. Search for your local Club Champion location Done 3. What Club Champion location would you get fit at? Orlando, FL 4. Have you been fit for clubs before? Not a dedicated personalized fitting, only at a big box store and at local demo days 5. What part of your bag could use a fitting? Entire bag but if we have to narrow it down I'd say woods (driver, 3W, etc)
  12. No worries, I understand you don't want to take the liability for someone else's issues, or cause theirs to be worse. I was never looking for that, more so just your personal experience. Because you never know if what you have implemented might help me. But, based on what you've said I have a similar swing, although over the last year or so I've been really trying to eliminate the right shoulder lead (or over the top move, if I'm hearing you correctly). I have purchased and watched a bunch of Monte's stuff, but I'm curious what exactly are you referring to when he's referencing the wrist position? The no-turn cast? Or the wedge series? Or something else entirely? I was applying the no turn cast approach, in general, along with some other info I've read, to try and bow the lead/left wrist more at varying times during the swing (i.e. sometimes at takeaway by using a stronger grip, other times at transition...I've never been good at bowing it on downswing) and I'm wondering if this might be causing some of my issues...especially with the interlock. When I try and bow the lead/left wrist, and I'm using an interlock with a neutral to semi-strong grip, that's what seems to torque my elbow, but on the flip side it surely shortens the swing (I had and probably still do to a certain extent have an overswing at times) which in turn makes my irons more crisp. All anecdotal on my part, and what I feel may not be exactly what's occuring...I need to take some more video and LM data to determine.
  13. It's hard for me to tell, because I've also switched to graphite shafts, so I've changed 2 variables. I hit maybe 40 balls the other night at the range with overlap grip and then played 18 holes the following day with an interlock, and I didn't see a ton of difference. YMMV though. Could you elaborate a little more on the wrist movements you're referencing @Hawkeye77? I'm thinking this route, along with switching to graphite, would be a logical approach since golfer's elbow stems from the wrist/hand/finger....so would be useful for many of us (including me).
  14. Sorry to rehash a semi-old thread, but I've spent the last 2 nights looking for anecdotal evidence on the same exact thing you are mentioning. I've went back and forth between interlocking and overlapping (my overlap isn't a 'true' overlap, my pinky sits in the crease between my index and ring finger and not on top of index finger) for years. I've been dealing with a pretty bad bout of golfers elbow and during this time, my instructor told me to get my trail hand (right hand) more on top of the grip (neutral/weak). So I was using various training aides to 'force' me to do this. During this time, it seemed to me that if I went back to an interlock grip, I was able to keep my hand more neutral and prevent it from slipping/sliding to a strong position. Fast forward, and my elbow hurts like h*ll. In addition, I was testing new shafts at PGASS and Edwin Watts, hitting off mats, and at that same time I went from having a draw to a pure block. One of the instructors there (that I know) said "you just have to rotate and close the face more". Doing this seemed to REALLY hurt the elbow. So, I tried to just do practice swings and see what may have been causing the tension in the elbow. Seemed to me that the over rotation of my trail hand near the top of my swing and more so on the downswing (to close the face - for reference), put my arm/wrist in a stressed position, and it seemed even worse with the interlock grip as it makes me inadvertently grip the club harder with that hand. I read on another post that someone's PT said that the interlock grip pulls on the pinky finger and thus, can cause/aggravate golfers elbow. Haven't hit a ton of balls going back to the overlap grip, but did seem to allow me to have less pressure/grip force on my right hand, which in turn should help golfers elbow? In any event, OP, have you seen a difference in your elbow pain since switching? I don't really want to reinvent the wheel with my swing/grip and I did switch back to SteelFibers, but that didn't seem to cure things 'overnight' while still using the interlock grip. Time will tell about graphite/vardon grip combination.
  15. Same here, I've checked it multiple times and it never gives me the option to upgrade to 3.4
  16. I know the slant neck has a ton of toe hang, but I can't picture it with a mallet for some reason. Any way you could post a pic? Assuming the black one is still available Any trade options?
  17. @DFDLT Just for the future, I'm guessing the reason the inflator needle actually worked is the tape excess on the butt of the shaft adequately sealed the shaft enough, to where when you pushed the needle in, it punctured a small hole in the tape and subsequently was somewhat sealed. Typically, that won't work because it let's too much air release out of the butt end of the grip, if the end isn't tightly sealed. Remember, you want the air to travel down the shaft, out the butt end and under the grip. If you ever want to use the air method again I'd suggest going to a big box store and getting one of these...you can just jam in the smallest tip and it seals perfectly:
  18. Thanks for the clarification @Stuart_G, I couldn't remember the exact term, been a while since I took Mechanics of Materials and didn't feel like breaking out the book. But thankfully you knew what I was trying to say
  19. No offense but I don't agree with this. I'd never use above 80psi and normally around 40-60. But, I dont use a tube either. With higher psi you have to be real precise on your feathering of the compressor gun, otherwise it'll balloon and bust in one second. Also, I think that if you expand the grip to that extent, it will hold some sort of material memory and possibly won't be the same ID afterwards. Using lower pressure you have to take a little longer, but you have more freedom with the gun. You don't have to balloon the grip to get the air layer between the grip and tape, usually when I do it you can hear the grip slip a little bit, but not balloon or deflect ..then it's just a matter of feathering a few more shots of air and pulling grip off. No matter what, common sense when working with tools like this would be to start low with your psi and work your way up if the grip isn't budging. Not the other way around. Once you balloon a grip and it ruptures, you'll never want to do that again. It's not pleasant I'll let some of the OGs comment on this though, maybe times have changed and high pressure is recommended now?
  20. 2nd this recommendation, maybe add the ZX7's to the mix as well
  21. **INSERT FOOT INTO MOUTH** Sorry, I clearly have no concept of time Sounds like ole' Kizzare needs a break from golf
  22. Similar, while I do like blowing on grips, I'll only do it with certain ones because some will slip...eventually. I've actually had a grip start to twist on me after several weeks/months of installing. Can't remember which grip it was, and I have no idea why eventually it decided to slip (certainly something to do with environmental conditions I'm guessing), but it did. Had to re-do the set because they all started twisting to a certain degree.
  23. So you're saying you put the new 2 sided tape on, but forgot to peel off the top liner? I've done that before, sad to say. That liner is wax faced or something, so it's not adhered solid to the adhesive portion of the 2-sided tape. It will twist, maybe not come off. I know mine was able to easily be twisted after solvent was dry....it was readily apparent something was wrong. If yours isn't able to be twisted, then you could give it a shot, but I'm imagine that liner will come detached at some point and cause the grip to slip.
  24. If it's the incident that I'm thinking of, Kizzire broke his driver. Although he didn't pull a Stenson and snap it over his knee, he put it over his shoulders and flexed the shaft a little too much. Saw it on PGA Tour Live. His incident in particular I could understand, because the hole it occurred on and the one before he couldn't keep his driver on the course. Was astonishing to watch to be honest, a PGA level tour pro hitting not just one, but probably 4 shots on a mishit/shank trajectory.....like 45+ degrees off line from his target
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